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kurtvd19

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About kurtvd19

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    Far West Chicago Suburbs

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  1. I just have the original tip for the Weller unit. Works fine for me but the tips are inexpensive so give others a try. I have a resistance soldering unit as well as the Smith Little Torch so I use what's best for the job at hand. I had not even considered using the resistance soldering unit on PE before reading Pat's post. I do find that I am using the resistance soldering unit more and the torch less.
  2. I have a Weller WLC100 and it's great - perfectly happy with it. Just did a search on Amazon and it's a bit under $40
  3. When I want wood to be smooth I use an automotive body filler meant to fill scratches in final or close to final sanding. It adheres to wood w/o any problem. Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty. This isn't meant to fill massive dents, dips are voids - that's regular body filler Bondo. I use an old credit card as a squeegee to force the filler into the wood grain - don't let it build up. When cured I sand it and see how smooth it is. If you want the part to look like metal or fiberglass multiple coats might be needed. Some use Spackle wall hole filler the same way.
  4. Unless the motor is classed for use in a spray booth with combustible vapors (NEC Class 1 Division 1) you are just asking for trouble. Using a house fan in place of a properly classed exhaust fan is an accident waiting to happen. It's not IF a fire will occur but WHEN. Water based acrylics are the only safe paint to use in a spray booth not using the proper type of fan. No amount of filtration in front of the motor makes this safe - filters only trap particulate matter not the dangerous fumes. The rate you mention is the lower and upper combustible limits of a combustible or flammable liquid - the % of combustible vapors to air mix. Good luck.
  5. I agree with Grant - buy what you know you will use and then add colors as the need arises.
  6. Eric: Feel even better about it because I had absolutely no input on the selected images so the model made it without my positive bias toward riverboats. Kurt
  7. Yes it was there and still is. It can be read off the NRG website or downloaded as a PDF. The link is below: https://thenrg.org/resource/articles/materials-in-ship-models
  8. Try Krylon Premium Metallic - Original Chrome. Works great.
  9. Check the directions (page 12) - the rabbet is only needed on the last scale foot of the plank ends. Sanding will work as shown in the photo from the instruction book (below). However, the gains on this boat are different. Each is a sloping rabbet, rebate or recess, cut along the last scale foot or so at each end of the plank. This gain is a scale inch wide. You can measure this using the scale rule (page 7). Mark this distance on the edge of a paper strip, then transfer this measurement to the plank. Carefully cut along the line with a sharp blade. Don’t press too deeply! Then shave the slope using a chisel blade in your craft knife handle. Make the deep end of the rabbet no more than about ⅓ the thickness of the plank. At the transom the planks fit as shown here (below right).
  10. Images are to be attached to your posts here - not on 3rd party sites.
  11. 350's are real workhorses. Also capable of good paint jobs. I can point to 6 models that took gold at Manitowoc where the paint jobs didn't hurt the results. They have to be the easiest to clean too.
  12. I recommend the Badger Modelflex Marine Paints - acrylic paints ready for spraying. MSW sponsor USA Airbrush Supply carries these paints. Simple shake to use. Note that when you go to the sponsors on the right hand side of the main page here there is a line of text that says to use a NRG discount code at check out. USA Airbrush has the lowest prices for these paints and then an additional discount.
  13. I rinse with water, then a cleaner I mix. Use it between colors and then at the end of the day I do the same, remove the needle and reapply needle juice when I put it back into the brush. Final thing I do when done for the day is to spray a short eyedropper of Lacquer thinner through it. Have never had a problem with a dirty brush but have cleaned many up for friends who were not as thorough.
  14. That's what I thought and at the premium price I was paying for outside GB I decided to drop it.

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If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

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The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

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