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About kurtvd19

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    Far West Chicago Suburbs

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  1. I use Sparex #2 heated in a small crock pot for cleaning anything I will blacken - using Birchwood Casey Brass Black. Heated Sparex works great on cleaning up soldered parts - but if there is a big build up of crud from the soldering I often use the fiberglass etching pen before the Sparex. After about 10 minutes in the heated Sparex I rinse the parts in water, then a rinse in Acetone that is then rinsed again with distilled water and then air dried. I routinely blacken brass eye bolts. I had issues with them not blackening consistently. Brass w/o a coating of some sort will dull and darken so with all brass eye bolts being shiny I concluded they are coated. I lay them out on my fire block at my silver soldering table and hit them with the mini torch and then clean in Sparex as above. Doing this makes sure they all blacken nicely. As any brass shapes (K&S type) that I blacken have been soldered - the coating is burned off and treating in the Sparex as above assures even blackening. Sparex should not be boiled! The crock pot can't boil water so it's a good way to heat the Sparex. Jeweler's supply places sell these little crock pots for $35 or so but I have found several at Goodwill or other similar places for less than $5. I have some on hand as replacements but have supplied local club members with them also. As Sparex is acid based the parts are thoroughly cleaned and etched in one step. Sparex is available from Jeweler's supply places and welding shops. Don't use metal baskets or tweezers to hold the parts as the continued use in Sparex will eat them away - plastic tea strainers work great. Jeweler's supply place sell copper tweezers to take pieces in and out as the use of metal can cause a build up of metal in the fluid that can coat the pieces and interfere with plating the parts. As I do plating too I stay away from the metal tweezers and baskets. Never had a problem with blackening parts when I previously used metal baskets and tweezers in the Sparex but after investigating plating and being forewarned about the use of metal in the Sparex I just use the plastic baskets and copper pliers all the time. Kurt
  2. Firedog: Ouch! Sounds like the back is a problem - probably can't sit too long, stand too long or walk too long. I am a retired Chief of Fire Prevention. I was given the option of duty disability retirement or taking over the Fire Prevention Bureau following my getting my back and neck totally screwed up when a commercial garage door came down on my shoulders and back of my neck and compacted me into an 18-inch space. The hospital staff couldn't believe that I didn't have any broken bones when the ambulance crew told them what happened - I swear I glowed in the dark from so many xrays! All muscle and nerve damage. After two years of therapy they ruled no more firefighting. So I served another 12 years as Bureau Chief and retired two days short of my 50th birthday. 3rd generation Chief - my mothers Father and my Dad were both Chief of the Volunteer department where I still live. I went next town over as it was full time and there are still only a handful of full timers here in town. What broke my cycle of pain was acupuncture. Had a bad headache and severe neck and back pain - almost constant. If was several years after the injury but the city insurance admin (a duty disabled cop) told me to try the acupuncturist who helped him. It wasn't overnight relief, but it eventually got so that I can get through most days w/o too much pain - it can't fix the underlying problems, but it sure helps. I hope you continue to mend and time helps with the discomfort/pain. Take care, Kurt
  3. Welcome to MSW Firedog. This is the place to be to learn modeling. Hard to ask a question that somebody doesn't have the answer to. You say you got hurt on the job - with your user name Firedog are you a firefighter? Kurt
  4. If you are cutting 3/4-inch wood use a carbide blade and it will cut it in one pass w/o any problem. I trimmed out my whole house/shop addition with red oak trim up to 3/4-inch thick w/o any problems using my Byrnes saw - easier to carry from room to room than my chop saw. Cutting 3/4-inch wood isn't (in my opinion) a job for a slitting saw blade - just asking for problems like overheating the blade and warping it, clogging, uneven cuts..... Kurt
  5. Floyd: I think Badger is closed today. I was copied in an email by Jesus - their repair tech - and I don't think he sent it from work. But give it a try if they are closed just call on Monday. Kurt
  6. Harvey: Yes it was added later so one dooesn't have to insert the "T" portion of the back lever and then turn it 90 degrees. Something like that would never get past QC at Badger. Floyd; Ron's right - every airbrush gets water shot through it as a test before it's passed as OK. I'm not sure if they still do it but the Sotar 20-20 airbrush even had a certificate that was signed by the 3 testers. Kurt
  7. Brian: The Cyclopedium book is available from the Howard Steamboat Museum in Jeffersonville, IN. Alan also wrote the The Western Rivers Engineroom Cyclopedium - both are must have books for the steamboat modeler. Not expensive. Kurt
  8. Floyd: Go ahead and try Badger on Friday afternoon but being good Friday they may close early or not be open. But if Jesus (that is their repair techs name - not a play on Good Friday) is working he will get to the bottom of it. Bubbles mean you have to tighten up the fittings - but they are delicate. Use some beeswax (a staple in all airbrush users tools) on the threads of the air regulator and nozzles pieces up front. As shown in the boxed area to the left side of the drawing there are three parts with threads that can use the beeswax. Also, make sure the tiny little tip (50-0391, 2 or 3) is in place. This gets lost by many. Be sure the needle moves freely and that it is fully forward - do not force it as the tip can split or deform if force is used. Try turning the airbrush upside down and use an eyedropper or pipette to drop some water into the siphon tube connection and spray. It should spray just fine if the internals are ok. If it doesn't spray then I am stumped. Kurt
  9. Rudder construction is shown and explained in The Western Rivers Steamboat Cyclopedium by Alan Bates on pages 18 & 19. Note the amount of rudder ahead of the rudder shaft. They fit closely to the hull and in both Fig 17 & 18 there is an attempt to shield/protect the rudders from floating debris. They were tucked up tight to the hull and didn't extend below the bottom of the hull. The rudder as shown in Fig 17 is very close to the Chaperon's rudder configuration. The text on the bottom of page 18 reads "Hull shapes were dictated by the type of propulsion and the intended use of the boat. A typical sternwheel stern rake is shown in Figures 17, 18, and 19. Notice that the rudders swing in depressions designed to insure a close and uniform clearance beneath the hull. This method of building was developed at about the time of the ladies' bustle skirt and was named for that popular style. The close clearance prevented the intrusion of drift logs between hull and rudders. A fencepost jammed here inevitably resulted in greater or less disaster" The rudder configuration in Fig 20 with the Wedges ahead of the rudders to offer some protection was also common. The text at the bottom of page 19 reads "Prior to the 1880's stem rake waterlines were practically straight as indicated in Figures 20 and 21. The wedges were spiked to the bottom to fend off drift. The length of stern rakes varied according to the intended service of the boat. Fast packets had long easy rakes and towboats had bluff, full shapes for additional buoyancy under the heavy engines." I hope this helps a bit. The above is all copyrighted by Bates but I have blanket permission from Alan to use his materials. Kurt .
  10. Floyd: Gravity feed is great but meant for detail painting. If the size of the tug is larger than your usual paint jobs then check out the Badger 360. It's a double action brush that works as both a gravity feed and as a siphon feed. This is possible due to the front end of the brush being able to rotate 360 degrees. As a gravity feed the paint is put into the color cup with it facing up (duh..) and detail painting can be done w/o having the paint bottle attached to the airbrush. For larger areas or multiple parts where you want more paint the airbrush head is rotated so the color cup points downward and the paint bottle with adapter cap is inserted into the color cup. The 360 is my everyday brush. The 360 is very versatile and serves as two airbrushes in one package. I do use the 350 I mentioned the other day for large areas and have several other brushes for specialized work, but the 360 is what I recommend to those wanting one airbrush that will do detail and general coverage. Kurt https://usaairbrushsupply.com/products/360-1-universal-basic-set
  11. Floyd: What pressure do you have from the compressor? If the brush blows air before connecting to the paint jar that tells you the air works - but you must have adequate pressure. 15-20 psi should be adequate. I don't remember what paint you are using. Is it thinned properly? Properly thinned paint with adequate air pressure should mean you get paint onto the model. Let me know what paint you are using and how much you are thinning it and what your air pressure is. It might need checking/repair by Badger - it will cost you shipping charges only unless you did internal damage that would require a new body. But let's try to solve your problem before resorting to going to the shop. Ron is right that you might want to use a different brush for doing the hull and larger surfaces. The link below to the Badger 350 is the best price you will see for this neat little single action brush. It's good enough that I used it for many years as my only brush and still use it today for larger surfaces. It is capable of laying down an award winning paint job. It will work much better for larger surfaces than the 150 which isn't meant for doing a model the size you are doing. https://usaairbrushsupply.com/products/350-1m-single-action-medium-head-airbrush
  12. The 2019 Contest & Show - a NRG Associated Contest - is May 117-19, 2019 at the Wisconsin Maritime Museum in Manitowoc, WI. The registration deadline of May 3 is right around the corner. This event draws contestants from coast to coast and in it's 43rd year is the longest running model boat contest and show in the US. Registration and information is on the Museum's web site. The judges are all NRG members. The models are judged to a standard of excellence with Gold, Silver and Bronze awards made based on points awarded. The models only compete head to head for the "Best of" awards. Speakers on Saturday afternoon are Bob Steinbrunn and Steve Wheeler. Both well known modelers from their writings in the Nautical Research Journal and Ships in Scale magazine. Bob will talk about building his award winning Bluejacket kit based PT Boat model. Steve will talk about building "Lady Isabel" his scratch-built, award winning model that will be put on permanent display in the Museum on Friday afternoon at 3 PM. There will be a ceremony on Friday afternoon at 3 PM when the Museum will formally place three models on permanent display. These each represent Manitowoc built boats. Representatives of the builder, Burger Boats will be attending along with family members of the owners of the boats the models are based on. Splash - 26 ft sloop - Burger Built 1937 - Model Builder - Kurt Van Dahm Lady Isabel - 42 ft motor yacht - Burger Built 1907 - Model Builder - Steve Wheeler White Swan - (no photo of the model) Burger Built 1900 - Model Builder - Richard Young The link below has more details and downloadable registration materials. http://www.wisconsinmaritime.org/special-events/midwestern-model-ships-boats-contest-and-display/ Kurt
  13. I used Simple Green on a model that I think spent years in the engine room of the full size boat. Nothing was cleaning it and with the permission of the museum I tried the Simple Green. Applied with a swab and then wiped off with another and then rinsed with distilled water and dried. Came out great - and clean - and still looking good almost 20 years later. Kurt

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