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About kurtvd19

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    Far West Chicago Suburbs

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  1. There isn't really any need to further discuss copyright pertaining to photographs used here - as Justin pointed out we have a clearly stated policy which isn't open to debate or interpretation.
  2. The video Ron posted of Ken's Intro to Airbrushing is something I recommend to all those new to airbrushing. The most complete short seminar out there. To Dave's question about cleaning between coats (sorry I didn't see your text message till just a few minutes ago) there is no need when using acrylics to wait between coats on something like a hull. By the time one paints the port side with a second coat the starboard side is ready for it's second coat. There is a tendency for paint to dry on the tip of the airbrush with any paint but with acrylics it collects quicker and heavier. It's always best to preemptively flick the dried paint off the tip than to wait till you see it affecting the paint application. Experience will help to know how long this takes with the paint, pressure and atmospheric conditions. But as long as the airbrush isn't set down for other than short periods there shouldn't be any need to clean it between coats of paint. If stopping for lunch, clean it to the point there is no residual paint showing on a clean paper towel. At the end of the day always do a thorough cleaning. Take care, Kurt
  3. I like the natural look. Might the shingles be a use for laser board? Being thinner to start the might not need sanding. Kurt
  4. If you are only blackening then I would have no concern using a stainless steel sieve. But if you plan to do any plating the Sparex may be contaminated by the SS if it isn't of high quality and then interfere with the plating process. Copper tweezers or the plastic alternatives mentioned are needed if plating is a possibility. Kurt
  5. The Planking Kit is now available in the NRG Store. Please note the 3 options to buy - US, Canada, Other . Please click on the correct link for where you live. Remember NRG members get 20% off. https://thenrg.org/half-hull-planking-kit.php Kurt
  6. The Planking Kit is now available in the NRG Store. Please note the 3 options to buy - US, Canada, Other . Please click on the correct link for where you live. Remember NRG members get 20% off. https://thenrg.org/half-hull-planking-kit.php Kurt
  7. Mark: I just dropped off the kit at the PO. Says it is due for delivery on Saturday. Have fun. Kurt
  8. It is a kit. Start a log in the kit builds. When several are started we can set it up in the group build area.
  9. Eric: Sorry. The extended rip fence is $30 and well worth it. The Miter Gauge adjustable extension is $12 and well worth it. I got the prices messed up. The $8 miter bar I mentioned isn't such a good buy when the adjustable extension is only $12. The micrometer stop isn't needed in my opinion. The saw does not have markings for width of cuts. Use a metal scale to measure from the blade to the rip fence. If you are going to be cutting planking make an adjustable tool to set the width like the one I made - photos attached. Absolutely no difference in plank width because the tool isn't moved between planks - the rip fence moves but the tool to the left of the blade sets the width. Kurt
  10. Eric: You will never regret buying one. I would get the extension bar for the miter gauge. There is a plain one for $8 or the adjustable one for $30. I add a longer piece of hardwood to the $8 bar when I am doing angled cuts - attached with double faced tape. If I have occasion to order something else from Jim I will probably pick up the $30 adjustable one - but I haven't had any issue with just adding another piece with the tape. But you really need one or the other. The extended fence is a very good - must have - addition. I think the std fence is just too thin - but I also use a big Bissemer (sp?) style fence on my 10" saw. A couple of zero clearance inserts so you can have one matched to each blade you use. The other accessories are luxuries. I purchased the tilting table and have used it one time in several years - it paid for itself on that job but it hasn't been used since. Kurt
  11. I will have to check my files - I didn't have the photos I posted, noted as being from a later build. I will check the UofW library. Ralph would have had the right boat noted in their files. The photos in my collection that I am sure are of the correct Chaperon seem to show the same type of boat as in the photos I posted. Kurt
  12. That computer generated Chaperon is neat. The guy seems to have used a lot of sources to put it together but I think there are a lot of presumptions - especially the interior. The interior looks just way too elegant to be accurate from the history I was able to find on the Chaperon. I could be wrong about this and I would sure be interested in seeing more of the documentation he used. I will try to find out more. As to the life boat I have attached two photos from my files that clearly shows it tied off alongside. Other photos I have seem to support this being the same boat are small and unable to be enlarged enough to confirm it's the same boat. There were changes to most steamboats over time and the aft boiler deck cabin structure is different than the kit. I have photos of the Chaperon that show the aft end that agrees with the kit. But there is documentation of several rebuilds of the Chaperon over time and none of the photos have been dated. The photos were taken from various sources - obviously none are copyrighted. As to rudders, I have not sen any photographs that show the rudders and I wouldn't say if it had two or three forward rudders. I have never seen any evidence of monkey rudders behind the wheel. If you like the look of three rudders go for it - there isn't anything that I have seen that would say it had two or three but three was very common.
  13. Greg: I have used the paste/flux combo and it works great with a torch. Have not tried it with the resistance soldering but I expect it would work fine. You are so right about warming the piece and that the solder flows to the heat - a very important point that isn't stressed enough.

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