Anthony Hearne
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Everything posted by Anthony Hearne
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i ordered a piece from gilmer wood its boxwood and measures 2 5/16 x 4 7/8 x 24" not sure if thats enough , i think its more than i need but i wont know till i start ripping it , thank you everyone for your help and suggestions
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i do have a band saw , i don't thibk its 14 inch , possibly 8 but still good enough to saw logs ,i thik searching around for logs is an excellent idea and one that didn't cross my mind , this hobby is really opening up yo me , thank you gentlemen
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just checked the syren website and they have yellow cedar , is that ok to try ?
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thank you , i found some pear that i may try and if not cherry as a backup. i have a byrnes table saw and thickness sander so i can rip small sizes of wood , actually i have a cheap full size table saw so i can probably rip larger pieces in to smaller chunks for the other equipment.
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its a fully framed pof model , i need wood other than strips , i will check model expo
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technically not my first project but i am going to try my first full ship, the Hayling Hoy< i am just about to finish a blandford cross section that i used mostly cherry for , that worked out well ,i was wondering if i should stick with the cherry or try something else . i thought about boxwood but cant seem to find it anywhere same with pear, what are your thoughts on this and if you do have a suggestion , where can i get it from? thanks Anthony
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i know about this one but i'm not sure about the material used for the construction , not sure about its longevity ,
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not sure if i have made a mistake or not, i wanted to build the victory , i have built one from a corel kit and although it came out ok in the end i wasn't happy with it so thought about doing another one , i wanted the caldercraft one as i know it is the most accurate but decided on the panart one after visiting the Lauck street shipyard , at the time it looked like the best option for me as it would need a lot of scratch building to make it look good , i've had the kit since my birthday in august but told my wife to hold onto it till xmas as she never knows what to get me . yesterday i had a quick look at the kit and i am not impressed , it will require a lot of work to bring it up to decent standard but i'm wondering if its worth it, my first question is how accurate is the hull shape , if its ok then i can work with that , but this will be a future project and if i keep it then i would like to know that i can produce a decent model from it , if not then it is time to pass it on to someone else. i have a couple of projects that i would like to tackle before the victory (again) so it would probably be in a couple of years , what are your thoughts , is it accurate , worth it , or should i try for the caldercraft one (eventually)
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again thank you , i am leaning towards a mill as i can see where it would be useful ,are there any brands to steer clear of ? is the proxxon one the same as the micro mark one?
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i have the byrnes table saw , the disk sander and the thickness sander , a cheapish scroll saw that works and an oscillating drum sander , plus various hand tools . i bought the table saw after selling the micro mark one that i bought and used once , it was horrible . thats when i realised that you have to pay for quality tools , thank you flr all the suggestions i will look into the rasp
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i am going to be embarking on my first full pof build , the Hayling Hoy from the book and plans by David Antscherl , i already have most of the tools that i think i will need but i don't have a set of chisels for carving and fairing the inside of the ship , i don't want to buy cheap (throwaway tools) but something that i will be able to use for more than one project , can someone recommend a make that is fit for the purpose? also the next tool i would like to buy and i will have to save for a while to be able to afford it is either a lathe or a mill , i think the mill would be more valuable before the lathe but what is everyones opinion on this subject and possible recommendations ( i"ve been looking at the sherline series of metal working equipment), thank you
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HMS VICTORY 1759 by isalbert
Anthony Hearne replied to isalbert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
absolutely beautiful -
tilt arbor table saw
Anthony Hearne replied to Anthony Hearne's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Cool , thank you for clearing that up . Guess ill be getting the tilt table -
tilt arbor table saw
Anthony Hearne replied to Anthony Hearne's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I think I understand what your saying ,thats why jim says to tilt the saw to make the table flat. -
tilt arbor table saw
Anthony Hearne replied to Anthony Hearne's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
again thank you , does anyone have a picture of the table set at 22.5 degrees , i would like to see the gap from the table to the bed please , or maybe i'm not understanding exactly how it works -
tilt arbor table saw
Anthony Hearne replied to Anthony Hearne's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
thank you , i know its easy to fit to the saw i just have questions about using it , do you have any pictures of the table in use , -
tilt arbor table saw
Anthony Hearne replied to Anthony Hearne's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
i did see that one , thats why i have questions about the use of the table . is there a video of someone actually using it? -
tilt arbor table saw
Anthony Hearne replied to Anthony Hearne's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
there seems like a big gap between the table and the bed , is this a problem for smaller cuts? -
tilt arbor table saw
Anthony Hearne replied to Anthony Hearne's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
i searched for videos on using the tilt table and only found one , he was complaining about the need for 3 hands to set it up and that the 2 small allen head bolts that hold the angle weren't strong enough for multiple cuts , also that these bolts had to tightened up to the point of stretching the threads which would fail over time , is this correct ? i have the sliding table but as of now , haven't used it , but then again i'm only at the beginning of my scratch building journey , i have , however , on several occasions needed to cut specific angles on the x section i'm building now , so i feel that i have a need for something just not sure that the tilting table is it. -
i have searched for the answer to this question but get differing responses . i own a byrnes table saw , which is excellent , and i completely understand the reason for keeping the blade at 90 degrees . i looked at the tilting table attachment , but find more negative reviews than positive , but i find that i need to be able to cut at an angle more than i realised so i'm trying to find a solution to that problem, the only thing that i have found is the tilt arbor table saw from micro mark , but its $350 , is there something that i have missed that i could use to make angled cuts (fairly easily) with the byrnes saw?
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cool , thank you , is the mylar like clear plastic?
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found this on their website , guess i have my answer , thank you for the referral its perfect BOND PRINTING PAPER Bond printing paper is the common, slightly rough surfaced paper used for writing, printing, and drawing, etc. Bond paper derives its name from the original use of this tough paper for the printing of government bonds. We offer several grades of bond paper for printing: 20# white, 20# Colored (the paper is colored pink, blue, yellow, and green), 24# white, and 32# white bond. The grade of bond paper is important to how your print looks. For specs and regular blueprints, a 20# bond is high enough grade and durable enough for most uses. It also has the added advantage of being the least expensive option of all our bonds. Use the 20# Colored Bond choice to make colored divisions in your drawings and spec books to separate different sections. For proposals, color renderings, and other prints where your print needs to be clear and look sharp on the page, use a heavier grade bond – 24# for proposals, 32# for large format color renderings. These heavier bonds look whiter and allow for a much brighter finish for your color document. The heavier the bond, the better the print looks because heavier bond allow less background light through the print.
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im guessing that its different thicknesses but there is no reference as to what it is
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i dont know it just said #20 #22 mylar and a few other numbers
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what type of paper should i choose?
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