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Robert29

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  1. Hi MD, Thank you for taking the time to source an answer for my question. The images are very informative. I think you are right, it could be a combination of both. Robert
  2. I have a small question. As I am in the process of preparing the yards etc, when I came to the Jackstaff and the flag pole I was wondering if at the top they had a block or a sheave to hoist up the flag. Anybody has the answer for this please? I tried to look it up, but still not sure what was used. As I also soon have to do the hammock cranes I bought some tulle, I could only find nylon. I thought it looked quite unrealistic. Then from a drapery store I found this. Although it is made from polyester it can take some dying. I tried it
  3. Thank you Martin. All three masts up. To align the three masts I tied a string to the ceiling with a weight at the lower end. From the bow, masts in line with the string and with each other. From the stern. The three masts in line with each other. Sleeve for the main mast pushed down in place and glued. For the fore and mizzen masts I dropped some glue inside the holes, to go down the very bottom, pushed in the masts and glued the sleeve to the deck and mast together. I used white glue all the way to
  4. Thank you all for the likes. A small update. I was working on the yards but ran out of black paint, actually what I had left had quite a few solid pieces in it, so I decided not to use it and order new paint. Whilst waiting fort the paint I thought I might as well continue work on the masts. I fitted all the blocks and eyelets on the masts that I could, for the reason the it is much easier when the masts are still in hand. I left out the blocks that a line has to be attached to. I think it is better to rig them later on, complete with the line and eyelet attached and glue the ey
  5. Mort, I took your advice, makes sense to keep the deadeyes all matched. You keep safe too. Thank you all for the likes, here is another update. More work on the masts and yards. Boarding pike racks fitted in place and added the bands that go in between. The mast sleeves are only dry fitted. Prepared the mast head lashings. In the kit manual it is referred to at a much later time, with the shrouds already in place. I thought it would be much easier to lash them now, with the mast in hand. The thread hanging from them is tempo
  6. Thank you for your nice comment md1400cs, and thank you all for the likes. A small update on the masts. They are now assembled, lower masts, top masts and top gallants. Dead eyes also in place, their strops have been blackened. I am unsure about the deadeyes, if to paint them black like the once for the lower shrouds, or to leave them as they are. Lantern also assembled in place and connected temporarily to a supply to make sure it functions. Hand masts also painted yellow and glued in place. Tried the la
  7. More work on the masts. Finished the bands on the square top end of the lower masts. Also fitted the battens on the corners. To keep them the same distance from the corners I made sort of a quick jig made of two strips glued together as shown on image. Then I made the blocks that are to go under the tops. In the instructions it tells you to fit eyebolts and tie the blocks to them. I used a different way which is more realistic. I made a loop with a thread. Gripped both ends with these electrical clips.
  8. Bossman, thank you for your kind words. I hope some of my ideas will be of some help to other builders as I myself have taken loads of ideas from other builders. Here is an update on more work on the masts. One of my major concerns was how to wire the lantern on the Main Mast without any wiring showing. At this stage all the components of the lantern are only dry fitted. Bending the brass tube with such a short radius without the tube being pinched and the inside hole closing or narrowing down was not easy, but on the third try a managed to
  9. Jazzyrjw, Good luck on your Victory build. Basically you do not need to paint the bulkheads, you might say I got carried away with the paint. What you have to make sure is that when the hull and decks are fitted none of those areas can be seen, especially through the gunport, as when you have the lights on those brighter areas might show. But as long as you are sure they cannot be seen from any angle, which I am sure mostly are not, there is no need to paint them. Yes, putting in the lights need a lot of planning beforehand, in fact it was a decision I had to make in the very begin
  10. Great work Bossman, very neat and detailed. That attention for detail and neat work together with your craftsmanship brings out a an awesome model of the Confederacy. Robert
  11. Thank you BenD and thank you all for the likes. A small update: I finished the bands on the three lower masts, except for the very lower once which have to be fitted when the boarding pike racks are being fitted. The groove on the main mast is from where I am to take the wiring up to the lantern. With wiring in place it will be filled and the whole length will also be covered with the 1.5mm x 4mm rubbing paunch. Although some of the bands are cut were they come over the channel, with the rubbing paunch fitted over them they will look like they continue all the way u
  12. An update of the work on the stern. Painted the stern and gallery baluster patterns. As a primer I used the the VMS 'Metal Prep 4K'. It worked quite good, the acrylic paint adhered much better then the grey primer I had. They had a much better resistance to scratches while handling them. For the black line I used Styrene strips, 0.25 x 1mm for the side galleries, 0.25mm x 2mm for the lower stern baluster pattern. For the upper baluster pattern I used the 2mm for the lower line but the top line is not the same width all the length. In the middle it gets wider, so I used the 5mm
  13. Hi Helli, Really nice work on the shrouds, very neat and authentic. The rigging is going to be a challenge for me, never attempted a rigging job of the Victory's level. The only rigging I did was on the J.S. Elcano, which was very basic, and Bluenose II which again is far from the Victory rigging. Robert
  14. Hello David, welcome to this great forum. I can see that you have already been given some sound advise. Yes, keep away from banned manufacturers, you will not find any builds in this forum relating to these manufacturers. The first thing I realised I needed when I started this hobby was a head magnifier to be able to handle the tiny parts, without them I am lost. I started this hobby about ten years ago and I am currently building the HMS Victory from Caldercraft. But before I started on this ambitious build I tried my hands on a much smaller boat, 'Bluenose II' by Artesania Latina, which
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