Michelnou

Is it necessary to use wax rope ?

Mike

I know that there are many posts on this subject, but i begin to rig the ratlines on my schooner and I discover that the Clove knot  is not at all self-tightening : to pull on each side of the knot has no effect on its tightening.

How do you do ???

Do you use glue on each knot ?

Thanks for advices

Mike

Thank you for the advices.

I am going to return the cathead blocks in the good direction !

Mike

I am looking for a trick to improve the realism of this cathead tackle of which the block is too light.

If you have a proposal, I will take it.

Mike

Given the lack of responses, I have rigged vangs on each mast, mainmast and foremast.

Mike

I am rigging a 1820 Baltimore schooner (desk length 75 feet).

This ship has a main mast and a fore mast, each of them supporting a gaff.

Knowing that these ships had the reputation to board a reduced crew, and so to have a light rigging, I should want to know if each gaff requires vangs.

I thank you for the advices.

Mike

American Baltimore schooner, about 1820.

Thanks

Mike

I ask this question because I wish that this link remains adjustable and allows a traction which will be in the axis of the mast.

Mike

On a Schooner rigged with fore mast and fore topmast I should want to know what is the good method to tie the jibstay rope on the upper part of the fore topmast.

I thank you for your advices.

Mike

I practice sailing  since a long time and I presume that the presence of two opposite sheets tied on the boom is not practical to use. When one of them lengthens, the other shortens. I think that mechanical system works better with simple kinematic.

This is the reason why I share my doubts with you.

Mike

The drawing of my Mantua schooner (about 80 feet) kit includes a diagram relating to mainsail sheet rigging.

I wish to have your opinion about this design and some clarifications about blocks to select.

I thank you for the advices

Mike

I thank you guys for your advices.

I was aware that these ropes could limit the movement of boom and mainsail.

It is why running stays (called bastaques in French) have been designed.

Ok, thank you;

I rig the both backstays.

Mike

The drawing of my schooner kit shows two backstays for the main mast : one for the lower mast (5,6) and one for the topmast (3,4). I wonder if it is necessary to rig two backstays for this mast.

What is your opinion on this subject.

I thank you for your advices

Mike

Richard,

Very useful video.

Thanks

Mike

There are no mast hoops in the Mantua kit, but the drawing show like rope rings ont the lower masts. I suppose that a rope is coiled around each mast crossing the sail luff over the entire height of it. See the drawing.

Mike

If I consider to install some sails on my schooner, which are the essential tasks to do on the masts before stepping them on the deck ?

Thanks for advice

Mike

I thank you Allan for the advices.

I have print your answer to organize the different tasks to be performed.

Mike

Allanyed

I am rigging the Mantua clipper of Baltimore .

Mike

I have almost finished the deck arrangement of my 1/50 schooner. I am going to start the rigging  which is a new activity for me.

According to rigging basic rules, in which order the main tasks should be performed after the spars have been fitted with blocks ?

Which mast to rig in first ? Main mast, foremast, bowsprit ?

Starting with shrouds or stays  ?

When fasten booms and gaffs ?

Thank you for the advices

Mike

Yes, I am french like you Wefalck, also in Ile de France at the east from Paris.

Right answer, Dr PR it is the Albatros Mantua kit with its lot of mistakes !

Mike

I thank you for these advices.

Concerning an other subject, I was used to purchase ship model supplies in Great Britain. I have noticed that since Brexit application, delivery times are no longer acceptable. May I know where you buy your ship model stuff in Europe ?

I am not sure that this question should be at the forum right place....

Mike

In fact, I have already modified the tiller. Initially, the end of the tiller was 8 mm above the deck. I have cut and made longer the top part of the rudder so that now the end of the tiller is 16 mm above the deck. I consider this value to be acceptable (not far from 20 mm...).

I wonder if the hole in the deck, around the rudder, must be or not be closed in a "wood box". In the real world, sea water could penetrate by this way.

Mike 

I have turned the binnacle so that the helmsman could read the compass window.

What is your opinion about the rudder cover subject ?

Is it necessary ? What can I make by myself ?

Thanks

Mike

Yes, it is my model.

Here is a picture of the layout which shows deck elements. 

The right side of the binnacle is made of transparent material, certainly for compass reading, in which case, you are right, the binnacle furniture is not in the right direction. But it is glued on the deck...

One more Mantua mistake that I had not detected (it is my first ship model...). 

Concerning the davits, I have also respected the Mantua layout...