Riotvan88
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Everything posted by Riotvan88
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Thanks again for this advice this is the route I've decided to take. I'm now almost ready to do this part now I just have a few questions. How much Gflex will be needed I've seen half liter bottles at force 4 but not seen any larger quantities. And can I mix multiple additives in sucj as the fairing additive and the water barrier in one mix or would these need to be two coats? Lastly would you recommend fitting the korts nozzle before or after the cpes and epoxy coats? Sorry for the questions this is my first build and Thanks again for the help.
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Hello I'm trying to fit a raboesch 108-03 bow thruster on my billings smit rotterdam kit. The problem is that the forward hull frames are in the way and would need some serious cutting to make it fit. As I see it the way would be to cut frame 11. The cut will need to be down to the yellow line and I'm wondering if this may cause problems? Has anyone got any advice for fitting this kit with a bow thruster? Thanks
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Hello I'm building an old smit rotterdam kit I bought second hand as an unfinished project. I intend to make it RC. So far I've planked the hull and now the next task is to install a bow thruster. I was wondering of anyone has any suggestions as to the size of bow thruster I should look at. I know many people on the site have probably built this same kit so I'd be interested in hearing any recommendations for a suitable bow thruster unit. Thanks
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I've decided to leave them in if water gets in its just as big of a problem to the wood as it is the nails so I don't feel they're an additional liability. I'll just be sure to make it absolutely sealed before painting.
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I have one more question possibly I have made a big mistake. I drove the planking nails all the way in as I planned to leave them in the hull. Should I remove these? Is it irrelevant? I guess the potential is for them to rust but they should be completely covered by the epoxy and water barrier sealers you recommended. I could still remove them but would be a pain to do.
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Excellent. Thanks for the information. Although I've made static models this is my first wood RC boat. I think I'll go the epoxy route. What's the kevlar additive you mentioned for the bottom? I may add this to protect from grounding. I always prefer to over build and over engineer for durability and redundancy, anything that adds strength and longevity peaks my interest. Thanks again
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Because I'm wanting to make it RC and I had seen others do it. I've read it makes for a strong hard wearing surface and is easy to sand smooth for painting
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Thanks for all the info. Can I just varnish the inside? I've already applied varnish to parts that will be inaccessible when planked. Ideally I only wanted to fiberglass the exterior of the Hull. Also in the past I've used PVA mixed with sawdust to create a thick paste and used it as filler. Will this be OK to fiberglass over?
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Hello I've been building a billings smit rotterdam kit and have almost finished planking the Hull. I plan to fiberglass the exterior but this is the 1st time doing this type of work. I'm not sure in what order the next steps are. My plan was to sand the Hull smooth use wood filler if and where necessary then fiberglass it then prime it and then any last minute sanding/filling before painting the base coat on. Does this sound right? Should I sand and fill and prime the Hull before or after fiberglassing it? Thanks much appreciated
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Hi picked up an old second hand rotterdam kit. I'm about to glue the flat sides on part 26 and start planking. The instructions say to glue each side (part 26) on one at a time however I've always planked a POF model with both sides done together to prevent warping. Should I do one side at a time? In my view it seems both of these side pannels should be glued together.
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Thanks when you say printing paper do you simply mean a4 paper for a desk top printer or some specialist paper? I think I'll give this a go along with the miniture chisels I've ordered.
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Hello Picked up a billings smit rotterdam kit. Its the old kit. The wood is very grainy and flimsy. Anyone who has built this old kit will probably know what I'm talking about. My question is how do you cut out the windows from the superstructure pannels without them crumbling? When a row of windows are placed I find it just falls apart especially when cutting accross the grain. I'm thinking of trying miniture chisels. How did othwrs do it?
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Hello I just picked u a billings smit rotterdam kit second hand. The frame is built and stern deck installed. I'm wondering how to seal the grain to get a smooth surface. I'm going to be sealing and painting parts as I build as I imagine painting some areas will be difficult when complete. The kit came with a tin of humbrol sanding sealer but this is very thick. Can I thin it? (What with?) would varnish be better or any kind of spray wood sealer/primer? Also the rear deck has been painted without sealer. Can I seal over this to repaint?
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I'm looking for some plans for CAP SAN DIEGO as I've decided I'm going to start a 1:100 scale RC build. Found one website with plans seemingly available for purchase. Sent an email however the site looks like its from the 90s so I'm skeptical I'll get a reply. Any ides where plans for this ship can be obtained? Thanks
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Thanks for all the advice. I've tried to make a shooting board. Very basic with the materials I have at hand as buying more wood is difficult now. I planed flat the edge of a strip of wood using a vice and a board I've then glued this onto an mdf board and added a stop to it. If this isn't precise enough I'll probably just buy a dedicated tool or a disc sander. Hopfuly when my mini planer arrives I'll be able to true up the edges for my bulkhead filler blocks. I did want to ask what exactly would be regarded as an acceptable tolerance for a wooden kit? I understand that no measure is ever perfect I'm an engineer in aerospace even a supersonic jet isn't 100% as per the drawing there's always a tolerance. I just hope my attempt at a shooting board is within an acceptable error.
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Thanks for all the advice from everyone. Problem I'm having is I can't make anything with a 90 degree angle or flat face so if I try make those jigs it's pointless as they won't be straight themselves. I've tried planing a pice of wood flat to make a shooting board I can get the length straight but the thickness edge I can't get 90 degree it's always sloped. I've seen mixed reviews on disc sanders sub £250 price range and I'm not willing to spend that much. On second thoughts I might try using a square on a base and a sanding block.
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Hi guys Feel daft asking this but I need a tool to cut precise 90 degree cuts to make the blocks to fill my Hull. So far I bought a mitre box and saw I can make a square no problem but the saw has so much play that the cuts are never perfectly vertical. So for this reason I'm having trouble getting perfect filler blocks. I'm considering this https://www.drapertools.com/product/88192/550mm-Precision-Mitre-Saw But it has mixed reviews on accuracy so. I thought I'd ask on here is there are any recommendations for a good tool to make very fine, precise cuts. Thanks
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OK thanks, I've not made any cuts in the keel but I plan to use blocks like you did. Are those the blocks in the picture or did you completely fill the spaces? Also did you paint the interior structure with varnish prior to sealing it behind planking? Just the colour of yours in the photo looks darker than mine.
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Thanks, How did you solve it on your kit? What I'm hoping is that I can fill the spaces between the bulkheads with wood and it'll hold it straight.
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Thanks for all the advice, I went and built a basic jig to clamp the keel straight using wood blocks Thanks for all the advice from everyone. I considered contacting the kit maker the kit is a caldercraft Sherborne 1:64. However looking at the build logs I feel this is common issue so I need to learn to deal with it early on. So I made a basic jig using a base board and square wooden blocks I arranged this to clamp the keel tightly. This seems to have worked its difficult to tell how straight because of the sheer bit I definitely think it's an improvement. I then fitted the false deck to the false keel with pins, nothing is glued yet. I'm thinking if I glue this up and then fit basswood blocks to every space between the molds/bulkheads as someone suggested hopefully it'll then stay straight.
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The bulkheads are quite an easy fit nothing is glued yet
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Hi again Sorry for the daft questions but it's my 1st build and I'm wanting to make sure I do everything correctly and not rush any steps. From the pictures you can see my keel is curved from bow to stern slightly, the photos makes it look worse than it actually is but in any case its not straight. My question is can I make a jig by gluing wood blocks to a solid base the idea bieng to sandwich the keel between the blocks and keep it straight. Then whilst in this jig glue and pin the bulkheads , false deck and add balsa blocks between the bulkheads. Or should I soak the keel and clamp flat overnight? I thought best to seek advice from this forum 1st before continuing as its been great so far. Thanks
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Thanks I'll go have a look at those builds I didn't realise I could glue these later, I guess where to follow the instructions and where to adapt will become obvious with experience. Much appreciated
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Hello I went and bought the Caldercraft HMS Sherborne kit. It's my first plank on bulkhead kit. Just started the build yesterday . So far I have removed the bulkheads and sanded smooth. I'm going to attach the keel pieces together next. My keel has three dark coloured woo pieces that attach to the main light coloured piece. These three dark wood pieces are wider than the lighter coloured main keel. I'm curious how I should glue this up. Should I try to center the main piece so that the same amount sits proud on either side or should it be sanded so all pieces have uniform thickness? Thanks
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Billings Bluenose 2 good beginners kit?
Riotvan88 replied to Riotvan88's topic in Wood ship model kits
Good to hear, I've gone ahead and bought it. Going to go slow and keep checking this site for reference . I'll be back asking for help in no time I'm sure. Since I'm stuck at home now for the foreseeable I'll have plenty of time to work on it.
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