Riotvan88

Thanks again. Is there any wood type that would allow the whole frame to be cut without doing them in pieces? If I remember correctly the kits I've done were cut in single pieces?

Ok thanks. Would 6mm mahogany sheets be any good for frames? I'm going to use POF simply because that's what I know and the plans are done in that format. It's more work to derive waterlines from my plans. The hull will be finished inside with resin and outside with resin & cloth so I've no concerns it won't be strong enough.

I plan to built POF as that's what the plans I have done as and that's how I've built all previous models. Am I correct in thinking the method you are discussing creates a hull from several thick layers of wood, each one a cross section through the vertical plane? The only data I have is in my plans is decks and frames.

I'm in the UK. Have access to a scroll saw and plan to use that cut the frames. The model is planned to be RC if that makes a difference. As others have suggested I'm looking for quality but don't need decorative planking type wood as the ship is steel hull.

Hi guys I'm doing my first scratch build of Zwarte zee tug. I'm guessing the frames should be 5mm plywood? I've noticed many different woods available on Cornwall model boats site. Is ply sufficient for frame or should they be hardwood? Also for planking what should be used considering the planking won't be visable like a period ship. Cheap strip wood or walnut/cherry? I'm guessing the expensive strip wood would be used for a period ship where the planks are decorative? Cheers Guys

Dry dock Keel blocks

Progress so far as of Feb 2023. Most details such as funnels and cranes not glued on yet. Stand is not finished, still need to glue on the Keel blocks to make dry dock look.

Bridge interior 3D printed. Dry dock Keel blocks 3D printed Still some paint imperfections to sort out. Repainted the blue to a darker metallic blue as I didn't like the light baby blue color so much

Here's my Smit Rotterdam kit started in May 2021

Did you say it and a clamp or food to hold the workpiece? I'll need to fabricate the missing cover for the arm as that's what the foot mounts to. Looks like a simple U profile sleeve that screws on. I need to check with my work place tomorrow and see if they have the equipment to fabricate that cover. If so I'll be willing to make you an offer.

Ok thanks I've had a look online and by the looks it it appears to be a Clarke CSS400 with part of the arm cover missing, the missing part has the make and model stickers.

Ok thanks does the bed tilt at all? Are there no marking or numbers in it at all?

Hi Tim I've just had a look at scroll saws and it seems to be the way to go. Where are you in the UK? I'm also in the UK, South west. I may be interested in the saw your club has for sale

Thanks for this advice I should have put this in my profile or provided this information. I'm located in Bristol United kingdom. I have found a local firm but would definitely be interested if anyone near me has recommendations.

Yes your correct I don't have a saw that would allow me to cut 5mm ply accurate. I previously build a smit Rotterdam kit in 1/75 scale. I want its running mate in the same scale. So the plan is to resize my zwarte zee plans from 1/100 to 1/75 scale then trace them in a vector drawing program. I can then send the resulting drawing to be laser cut. I have found a local firm but will get a quote once they see the drawings. I'll post my progress and how this goes on here

Hello I've decided to build my 1st scratch build. I've got some plans for zwarte see tug. My idea is to use the plans to get the frames laser cut using 5mm ply. Does anyone have any suggestions on companies that do this service? any suggestions or advice? Cheers

Your model looks museum quality to me, that's an amazing finish and a fair bit better than my effort I'd say. This is my 1st wooden boat coming from plastic 1/350 scale kits previously. I'm thinking of doing a scratch build next and will apply the many things I've learnt so far. Hopfully I'll get closer to a museum quality model next time. But for this current build I've got to move on to the next stage or it's never getting finished.

I did try to do that using the room light I feathered the edges of any filler and it always felt smooth to the touch but was still visible when painted. I guess it's just an experience thing that takes practice.

Thanks. Yes the primer was halfords own brand and was Matt. Can you get glossy primer? The final paint is classed as Matt but has a good amount of sheen.

Not perfect but not willing to spend any more on paint

I've been building a smit Rotterdam kit and have painted my hull now onto the super structure. I used epoxy to seal the wood and get an even surface. Then used primer. The hull looked great until actual paint went on and I could see flaws everwhere. So sanded it back till it looked smooth paint again and still flaws. Sand paint sand paint....fast forward 5 cans later and I'm finally happy with the result. Here are my results Surely I've been missing some key tricks here? Is there a way to get a good finish without using a million cans and hours of sanding?

After some rumaging around I've found the empty tins of everything I've used. The complete schedule is Several coats of CPES 1X coat WS Gflex with water barrier additive 1X coat WS Gflex with fairing additive 2X full cans automotive high build primer 2X full cans plasticoat outdoor trade paint Black above waterline 2X full cans plasticoat red oxide below water line The boat looked smooth but each time I put paint on I'd spot flaws which is why I've used so many cans. Paint, sand paint, sand. Anyway I plan to add plimsol markins with decals and so will add a top coat to seal them in. Thus the top coat need be water proof to protect the decals. Hopfully the end result will be a matrix of layers that will keep her dry.

Still relevant. In Aerospace we still use isometric, 1st and 3rd angle projections. We don't draw them anymore we model parts/assemblies in a 3D program that then spits out whatever drawing is required. In fairness one must understand geometry to create the 3D model in the first place.

I've been using a 3D printer to produce detail parts in PLA. I guess of you want metal part then CNC is the way to go

I'm an Engineer when I was at uni in 2010 our teacher made us learn to draft on boards before we could go into CAD. I liked this approach as you actually use alot of the basic skills even in CAD especially true if using a parametric tool that uses sketches to create 3D objects. Contrary to popular belief CAD dosn't do it all for you it is simply a digital board that renders a 3D model from 2D infomation. A user still needs to be able to produce that 2D info properly for the system to generate a 3D visualization. You are correct however that drafting on a board is more of an art. At work I've occasionally though rarely had to work from drawings as some of our older products are pre CAD and still need modifying/upgrading. CAD certainly speeds up the design process as you can go through multiple iterations of a design rapidly on a CAD and detect clash easier. You can rapidly design multiple parts in assemblies and check fitment, tolerance, maintainabilty issues etc. From a user perspective as a tool to do a job CAD wins everytime. The 2D drawings produced from CAD programs do lack any artistic flair IMO and are bland. I occasionally design things for personal projects on my A0 Neolt drafting table using rotoring isograpgh pens and agree it is definitely satisfying to add line weights, stippling and little details to make the drawing really pop. Such things a CAD produced drawing lacks. But to be fair I end up using fusion 360 for 90% because it just makes the design process so much faster not to mention ability to 3D print mock ups and the like