Riotvan88
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Everything posted by Riotvan88
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That's a great idea, I have taken pictures along the way but I've not really recorded anything down. A bill of materials would be a good idea next time.
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Good to hear I'm slightly concerned that I used WS epoxy without glass for a smit Rotterdam and now wish I'd glassed. Seems some have had sucess with epoxy only. Your boat has held up a decade and counting. Though I'll glass future builds
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I know what you mean especially with varnish. I definatley didn't sand the epoxy off generally but it's possible certain spots might have been sanded though I can't really remember. I did lots of primer layers sanding between coats and occasionally sanded back to the epoxy layer in spots. I do remember mixing up small batches of epoxy to patch areas I suspected a sand though might have ocured but always a chance I missed one or two. That's the problem with an on/off project. Can't remember half of what I did to build it.
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I see the problem with future expansion/contraction etc and I do wish I'd used glass now just for piece of mind. I'm semi tempted to strip paint and glass it but at same time I really really don't want to. That said the Gflex is used to seal full sized dinghys and day sailor boats. It has a much higher elasticity than polyester according to their website it's designed to create structural bonds in wooden constructions and does mention it's ability to accept flex and expansion. Didn't many older models simply use sanding sealer or varnish and do fine?
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Cheers Bob I did two coats with Gflx one with water barrier additive and a final with fairing additive. The whole model was done in CPES as well as Gflex including decks and superstructure albiet only one coat of Gflex for those areas. Outdoor varnish was applied to all inside surfaces My concern is during all the priming, sanding, painting (done over months) I may have sanded through in some spots without realizing. Probably not but impossible to know now. I plan to give several coats of satin lacquer at the end which should also provide an additional waterproof barrier as well. I've made some small test hulls one with paint and topcoat only to simulate a potential sand through area and one with CPES, Gflex and paint to simulate the the hull generally. I'm going to place these in water 24/7 to see how long these coatings last.
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Ah ok thanks for the reply. Did you use cloth on this hull or just west systems epoxy? I ask because I've built a model and used only west systems epoxy. I will glass future builds but I am interested to know how other models held up that like mine only used epoxy.
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I have built two small test hulls each the size of a matchbox one with the paint system only and one with the epoxy coating only. Will build a third with epoxy + paint to be truly representative of my hull. I'm going to float these in a bowl to see how long the coatings last.
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Thanks for the reply. I coated the whole hull in epoxy atond payed special attention to all hull penetrations. Then several coats of automotive primer and costs of paint. Inside has been varnished but could add epoxy to it as well. Boat will be on water 6-12 times a year summer only.
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Hi thanks for the reply. I think you may have not understood the problem. I did not use any glass at all. I treated the wood with a penetrating epoxy then 2 coats of marine epoxy only no glass. I did this based on some recommendations (seems others have done it also) My worry now is that without glass the model is only suitable for display. Interested to see what others think.
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What happened to the model? How did it leak? Was this built using WS gflex epoxy? I believe you commented on my thread about fiberglassing a hull. Did it leak due to using epoxy only with no glass cloth? I've done the same on my model. Bit concerned now.
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Hi all seeking some advice I have built a smit Rotterdam kit. Intention was always to make it RC. Here is current progress However I am now deeply concerned I have made a huge error. When looking for advise on glassing the hull I was advised I could use epoxy resin only (no cloth) with additives 422 Barrier Coat...see thread below This was recommended by a couple of people so I went down this route and ended up painting the hull with Smiths penetrating epoxy sealer then did two coats of west systems Gflex epoxy with 422 barrier coat additive added. I'm now worried this was wrong and now the boat is unsuitable to be RC. This epoxy is what they on full size yachts and dinghys. (Used it myself to fill damage on an Enterprise dinghy) Any thoughts? perhaps I'm worried over nothing? would appreciate any wisdom on this. Future builds I'll definitely use glass. I just hope I haven't limited this to a static build.
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Can anyone identify this model/kit
Riotvan88 replied to Riotvan88's topic in RC Kits & Scratch building
Do you mean the fender? What's wrong with it? I've seen plenty of real yachts with a bow fender like that -
Picked up this RC model sail boat second hand. Seller didn't know anything about it. I really liked the look of it and bought it. Its a fiber glass Hull with wood mast, decks and superstructure etc. The Hull looks exactly like a Revell Inga IV but the superstructure is totally different as well as the rig. It also looks like it either had 2 masts at one point or possibly the kit had the option to fit two masts. Perhaps its a custom design using an Inga Hull or modified Inga. Can anyone identify it?
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Hi Jan. No this kit is the old version so the interior is very basic. I have made my own interior based on photos I found online. It is made in a CAD program and 3D printed into pannels that I painted and will assemble into the bridge. I've added fiber optic wire to the main consoles as I'm going to light the control panels. I've tested this with everything lose fit and it seems to work quite nicely.
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Sorry for the late reply. I went for an industrial outdoor matt spray paint in the end. Here are some pictures of my build so far. The bridge interior pieces are just loose fit as I'm waiting to finish all the paint before gluing it into position.
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*UPDATE* Managed to sand the epoxy smooth and is now in primer. 3M aluminium oxide sanding paper 80 grit and then 120 followed by 400 did the trick. Ready for paint now
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Update* Thanks for all the advice in the end I used 3M sandpaper as someone else suggested previously. This sandpaper on a wooden block has knocked back the lumps and high spots in about 2 minutes of sanding. I didn't apply the epoxy thick, I used a credit card to try to squeegee it thinly onto the Hull rather than slather it on with a brush. I intend this to be a radio control model which is why I used epoxy. Now that the 3m paper is sanding it very easily I think the issue is exactly what someone suggested poor abrasive products. The surface is already smooth after a few minutes with 80 grit so I'll keep going with it. Perhaps worth mentioning is the sanding blocks I used previously were infi model sponge pads as pictured (I used 220g not 800g)
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Thanks for the advice, I'll try to sand this with different abrasives as has been suggested. The epoxy is actually designed to be sanded so I do not believe this is beyond salvage with a better choice of abrasives. This is a kit and a re purchase is simply not an option. The choice of epoxy was actually a recomendation from this site.
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I'm going to try your suggestion with some 3m sandpaper. The blocks have been ok for balsa,milliput and the like but don't seem to touch this epoxy
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Thanks for the advice, I'm using sanding block by infi model. The model is getting smoother but at this rate it will take weeks of sanding. I'm going to try with some m3 sanding blocks. See if that madrs a difference.
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So just throw away then? Must be some way to sand this smooth
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Hello I've been building a smit rotterdam kit. I've gone and used west systems 650 gflex epoxy with 410 microlight fairing additive to seal the Hull and provide a base for painting. The problem is the epoxy just does not sand at all. I've spent over 12 hours sanding with everything from coarse grit, fine grit, wet sanding, tried everything. The microlight additive was supposed to make this easily sandable and give a smooth finish. It's like sanding solid rock. I mixed the epoxy exactly as instructed. It has fully cured. After 12 hours of sanding I'm now left with a horrible lumpy model and several threadbare sanding pads. Picture is after 12 hours of sanding and multiple pads worn through. Any ideas?
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Hello Building a smith Rotterdam wood kit with intention to make RC. I've used west systems epoxy to seal the hull. I'm wondering if anyone has suggestions for spray paint? Laquer paint be any good? Enamel? Brand's to buy/avoid. I'm guessing the paint needs to be as water tight as the epoxy so as not to flake or absorb water? Cheers
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That looks like fun but where do you go to do this is this some type of RC boat event? Something I'll definitely be interested in looking into once she's up and running. My nearest model boat club is almost an hour drive away
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Thanks again Bob, great advice. I'll definitely test it out first on some scrap. Really looking forward to getting the hull sealed ready for paint.
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