Jump to content
New Publication - Ship Modeler's Handbook - They're back in stock! Thank you for your patience. ×
BlueJacket Shipcrafters 10% off sale-April14th to 25th, all the kits we offer will be 10% off. No need to use special codes, it will be automatic when you place your order by phone, web, email, snail mail or in person. Put your tax refund to good use! ×

travis

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    132

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by travis

  1. travis
    Also adding various eyes, u bolts and horse traveler around the rails.
  2. travis
    A lot of similar work on main mast. Only one bail component at top of lower main mast. Couple changes in brasswork at trestle. And kept the standard rest for the goosneck. Two metal wraps on the mast for both the gaff and the boom.
  3. travis
    With the masts nearly constructed, though I should document the mids, starting with the forecast. Added a small round plate at the top ball of the mast that will be used for the flag halyard. Replaced the master rings on the masts so I cloud have more. Could only find a silver color which isn't ideal but all I had nearby. Tried paint but didn't take well so just sticking with it. Constructed a bail for the jib stay and jib sail and a second for the sprint stay. Added additional band/block for each peak gaff halyard. For the trestle, added the crane with attach for peak halyard, some brass works for both detail and realism, and bracket for fore throat halyard. Pinned the base of the upper mast (it's sitting free in the trestle, just the pins keep it in place. This way i have a little flex in there when setting the stays). Added the sheave in the lower mast that was used to hoist rigging when needed. Couple Fairleads (small eyeball with a beading crimp tube through it). Painted the metal mast wraps for the gaff wear. Then replace the goosneck.
  4. travis
    Thanks Bob. Now in need to figure out blocks. With my mods I now need twice as many of each block type from what AL gave me. Would like to fabricate my.own but will be very slow and the wood I have might not be dense enough.
  5. travis
    A little further. Bands for halyard (I'm using polystyrene straps for bands because they are easier to just bend/glue and then paint). But trestles are assembled now. Realizing more that AL is consistently off in proportions. The lower masts above the trestles are shorter than they should be but making it work.
  6. travis
    Created a bowsprit bail. Working on masts, booms, and gaffs. Modifying various bands. AL'S trestle trees are fairly inaccurate. Augmenting where I can. Goosneck on forecast is wrong kind too so moding with wire.
  7. travis
    Finally getting pics in again. Been working on deck fittings, adding pins to everything (nothing is glued to the deck yet). Added the railings. Set the anchors and davits. Been working through rigging planning to see where eyeballs are needed in the deck/rail. Most recently, just set the bowsprit.
  8. travis
    Turnbuckle on bowsprit fittings. Stay straps in process.
  9. travis
    Continuing forward, chainplates don't look as bad once I build up a little ca and then paint them so going with that for now. Working on the bowsprit too now. I've crafted the wood rails that are just to either side of the top centerline with thin slots to put the tie down lines for the foresheet when it's stowed. Modding the rigging connections to look more like the real thing too.
  10. travis
    Yep, I'm tempted to just layer up CA or use modeling paste at the joint of the chainplate and strope so i can pain and hide how bad it looks. Kind of doing the same with some of their other metal works the are inaccurate or just crude!
  11. travis
    These chainplates really suck! The AL design. Just doesn't work. Makes me wish I had a soldering setup. Maybe time to get one and learn. Pictures don't show the issue well bit their design is just flawed. Now to find a better approach!
  12. travis
    Just taking my time here. Making dories. Kept the white rails but I think I'll stick with wood finish on the hulls. Also putting together the anchor davits? Add an extra ring behind the pull to setup the chain hook and haul line.also added the yellow stripe on the bulwark same as the white. Just cut thin strip of the decking,painted, and the glued on. More crisp than I could probably paint on.im also model the windlass. There is an extra section on the port side AL leaves out. Took apart on of my daughters beads to make it. Also adding some additional elements I can see in the bluenose picks like the breaker bar and a valve handle.
  13. travis
    Railing done. Deckworks are still all just dry fit. Also creating the gooseneck vent pipes using 1/16 brass tube.
  14. travis
    Looks better with less tape! I also scratch built a boom buffer.
  15. travis
    Adding rails. You can also see how I fixed the poop deck with some basswood. Hawse pipes attached with the embelishments.
  16. travis
    Deckworks update. Working on the windlass. Haven't glued the axel yet as I'm thinking of adding a section between the right drum and the windlass housing to be a drum for the chain haul (to be more accurate?) In photos, looks like it's two drums, housing, main drum, housing, final drum. AL left out the double drum setup on the port side Skylights ate built and painted. Both cabins are read for finish. At the helm, I added a short tub behind the helm so it would stand off the steering gear cabinet a bit. I have two challenges now. First, the poop deck from AL is a poor fit. Try to decide if I should modify or rebuild from scratch. I also made my first big goof. When I started building the skylight panels, I grabbed the wrong wood. Grabbed some walnut of similar size instead of the sapely. Oops. Fortunately, I plan on painting the rails anyways so I can use any wood as long as it's the right size.
  17. travis
    Working on the bowsprit and deck works. Screws are just dry fot for now. Looking for a good paint to make them brass. Struggling with getting started on the bowsprit shaping. The instructions call for an overall length that seems short compared to pics. Trying to figure out how to estimate proper length. There also seem to be some errors on the deckworks. The main cabin area shows two entries but the bluenose ii only has one. Too late to adjust that. They also have the actual barrels on the main deck, not the cabin deck. The skylight is also on the main deck, not the smaller galley deck (which doesn't have a doorway access). Looks like AL decided to cut some corners on these. Maybe just kept designs from their original bluenose or another kit? Adjusting where I can as I go.
  18. travis
    Decided to swap the approach to the white stripe at the waterline. Instead of the 1.5x1.5 sapely, I trimmed down extra deck planks, primed and painted them, and then attached. Makes it look more like a really good job masking and painting but actually easier. My waterline isn't exactly correct (especially at the stern) but I'm not going to worry about correcting that. Looks good enough for me!
  19. travis
    Thanks for the comments Bob and Josh. Just going slow and steady.
  20. travis
    She's cleaning up well. Bulwark are drying. My process here was 1 coat of gesso (nice thin "primer"), filer where needed, gesso again, final filler, gesso, then two coats black. All with sanding between. Drilled and set the shaft pipe for the screws. Trimmed rudder to fit. Next is fully shaping the rudder and bowsprit deck assembly.
  21. travis
    Tried the "sawdust mixed with elmers" after rough sanding the hull to make filler. Came out a little darker than I had hoped so hopefully it will blend better after I put the final finish. Got the filler piece at the bow that holds the bulwark better now. Time the mask and paint the bulwark exterior.
  22. travis
    Stantions placed, suppers cut. I think sand and paint bulwark is next. But first I need to deal with bowsprite. The bulwark has come loose from the keel at the bow where I need to drill for the bowsprite. I original tried wood glue and then a little ca in the inside after clamping just to get a little extra hold. Didn't work. So little wood to wood contact here. U think I will create a small wedge to sit behind the keel post and flush with the top of the bulwark where it will be under the rail piece and monkey rail when I eventually add those. At least it will give something I can glue to and pin (I think the model shipways version does something similar). I'll send pics when I figure it out.
  23. travis
    Second plank is on. Time for finish sanding on the hull. The wood burner on lowered heat work quite well to set the planks without clamps or mess. Working on the bulkhead stantions as well. Set the keel as I was planking. I followed on other by drilling a couple spots in the two primary/larger keel pieces so can insert a brass rod through the keel and into the false keel for extra strength. Feels ready for the keel clamp.
  24. travis
    Thanks Bob. I do find this process a bit cathartic, even if slow.
  25. travis
    Getting back to the log. Finally finished planking. Almost good enough to single plank but I like the walnut look so going double. Lots of sanding/shaping on first plank layer. Decide I am going to place the keel before the second layer (or at least lay as I go. I like the look of the second plank layer slightly overlapping the keel. Gives a more finished look without the gaps. I also took an idea from someone elses log and am heat setting the second layer as I lay each plank. Don't need to buy anything special though. Just an old wood burner with a shading tip and then an extention cord with a pigtail/dimmer to reduce the wood burner to just enough heat without burning. It's working real well to get the last little bend/curve at the bow.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...