Richard Feliciano
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I have more photo etchings available. Tried to respond to you by email that didn't go through. Reach me at rmfeliciano@verizon.net
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thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic:
Chuck's carving attempts - #11 blades and micro chisels
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EricWilliamMarshall reacted to a post in a topic:
Chuck's carving attempts - #11 blades and micro chisels
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KARAVOKIRIS reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Fly by Richard Feliciano - 1:48 Scale - POF
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KARAVOKIRIS reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Fly by Richard Feliciano - 1:48 Scale - POF
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KARAVOKIRIS reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Fly by Richard Feliciano - 1:48 Scale - POF
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Several of the posts are indexed to be able to search for specific information on the stage of construction that the reader is currently working on (e.g.- square frames). Previous posts on how to create indexes are hard to follow.
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Information on creating an index for a build log is clear as mud. As an example, searching for a 'little arrow' to set up an index not a very helpful comment. In addition, navigation for index creation should be described using Windows 10.
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Watered down glue mixed with sawdust fills many gaps.
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Thanks for your advice. I'm sure most follow your procedure of using a chisel with great results. I'm against your method primarily as a result of my background. My objection response would be too lengthy and wouldn't change anyone else's mind on the procedure to follow. The slotting file enables me to make a cross grain cut where I want (assuming my measurements are accurate which is a leap of faith).
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Struggling with the square frames and port hole construction. Not very satisfied with the results. The following shows steps taken to create port holes. I find try as I might, I need to resort to miniscule shims to get any sense of proper proportions. My notching skills require 45 degree notches to get any sense of looking right. The 60/120 degree notching too difficult for me.
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The point that I was trying to make is the patterns for 13 and 14 are too tall. I was also concerned that the temporary cross spalls would be of the wrong dimension but that dimension checked out o.k..
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The Square Frame patterns for 13 & 14 Patterns do not take into account the rising slope of the deadwood for the tops of the frames (see photo below). The frames are higher moving from 13 F to 14A. I wanted to check spread of the frames at the top of the patterns for the temporary cross spall. Using the information that I had previously drawn and the Plan Section for HMS Fly, I plotted the Tangent Offset for the frames in question. I then plotted the design heights for the top of timbers on the pattern drawings. Fortunately the Tangent Offset on the pattern drawings checked exactly with the Tangent Offset. The main point is Frames 13 thru 14 need to be cut down to design height. (As previously stated, the 36 timberheads will be fabricated separately and attached to the frames later.
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As previously stated, I believe that the 14 Aft pattern is too narrow due to the significant slope of the deadwood at it's location. The pattern is satisfactory on the forward face but the back face is much higher thus requiring a wider overall cut out to achieve the interior and exterior surface. I made adjustments on 13 Aft by cutting the pattern fuller (~2" S) on the inside and outside. You can see the interior of the stern has been faired. I agree that there may be some alignment issues on the last cant frame, but looking down keel axis the alignment of the frames looks good to me. After I raise the 12 & 11 frames, I will post a photo.
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After fabricating frame 14 Aft, the resulting frame was too narrow to conform to the existing inside framing. To correct the problem a thin (2" S) strip was laminated to the interior of the frame with satisfactory results. The inside of the frame will never be seen. A bending heating iron created the needed curvature. The ends were tapered to zero thickness.
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It's been a challenge to get started on the square frames. One of the issues one needs to consider is the layout of frames 14 Aft and Forward. The patterns given by Admiralty Group are for the forward faces of the frames. The rear faces are entirely different because of the slope of the deadwood. In addition, the actual disposition of your deadwood slope is not the same as mine due to construction variations of each modeler. I mentioned this to Greg Herbert who stated he had a similar problem. After constructing 14 Aft, the resulting frame was to narrow in width. My approach to resolving this issue: 1. Make a fairly accurate drawing of my deadwood using a carpenter's moulding template. 2. Draw building board line on this drawing using drafting dividers. I find my old K & E dividers to be more accurate than calipers for this purpose since they can fit into tight spaces. 3. Lay out the proposed frames (14 down to 12) on this drawing. Use this drawing to determine the bevels needed on the base of the frames.
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The model is HMS Fly. The interior of the frames have been faired. Now on to the square frames.
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This is where I am after 15 mos. My goal is to finish in 2 more years assuming I can keep my cancer in remission. I've built Pipe Lines, Bridges, Tunnels etc. This brings as much enjoyment as the other accomplishments.
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Assembling the Knee of the Head was challenging. To aide in the tapering of the Cross Section, I used a card board template cut to the desired bevel at two elevations from the bottom as the photos show.
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I came up with this scheme to hold the Side Counter Timbers into proper position while gluing. The falsework constrains the timbers from moving out of p osition
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