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About stuglo

  • Birthday 04/08/1949

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    learn and build model boats and their history

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    medicine, history travel

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  1. "I have never seen the Trumpeter plastic kit, but from pictures, it looks as though it could be similar to this Amati kit if you add the super detail" -is the additional detail referred to the Trumpeter or Amati kit ?
  2. Lower Deck (cont.) Before planking, some structures need to be made. The first are the Gratings. These have always seemed too difficult and in previous scratch builds, have used left-over pieces from various kits and assembled them. I’ve read dozens of explanations which seemed too difficult to build or even understand. Even the TFFM didn't enlighten me. Then I checked out a later video of Kevin Kenny (#79). Genius (someone who simplifies the difficult and/or originates a new method) THANK YOU, SIR. First, make a sliding table (in my case , a ProxxonFET). The gratings consist of : ledges (athwartship)- the notched bits-1.33mmX1.6mm (deep) And for/aft Battens, 1.46mmX0.4mm thick. My saw blade is 1.6mm (very convenient). A stop/fence made from a strip 1.6mmX1.6mm, and glued at a distance that a cut strip will be 1.6mm wide, (For now relied directly on sliding table and not an additional jig.) A 3mm thick blank is squared off, and with the grain at RIGHT angles to the blade,which is lowered to allow a 1.6mm groove to be made. Held firmly against the fence, the first cut is made. The blank is then moved so this groove SITS on the fence, and a second groove cut. This in turn sits on the groove and another groove cut etc until all the blank is furrowed. WATCH OUT FOR THE SAW BLADE. (I placed some downward pressure to help form uniform grooves) As I said, sheer Genius. While set up, made enough for later use with the upper deck.(Foredeck more delicate) Put the sliding table aside . These grooved blanks are turned 90deg and 1.6 mm slices cut with the grain I changed the saw blade from the standard 37 teeth ( it damaged a few trial passes) to a 200 tooth blade-not really its purpose, but it was magic) and cut the 1.6mm wide strips ALONG the grain. Battens: My thicknesser can’t make 0.4mm blanks -only 1.3 minimum. Never mind. Cut strips ( ALONG grain) similarly 1.6mm wide The ledges and battens are interlocked and fixed with diluted glue. The holes seem pretty uniform and close enough to the appropriate size. The excessive thickness will be sanded off after each piece is cut to size. Thanks again Kevin.
  3. Ssshhh- a certain company in SW England is now taking orders. My Bosun is in for a surprise .
  4. Inner Hull Planking (ceiling) cont. #16 and #17 strakes of 1.6mm thick A stealer is added below the foremost part of #16. I found it easier to chamfer the lower edge of the #16 strakes, rather than the inner waterway. There is an (Air) gap of 1 mm above the #17 sections except the foremost and aft, which are wider by the same amount. The lower edge of this gap is chamfered I also fit the aft #17 first, as the #16 aft shape is more complex/ (I find it difficult to transfer a card pattern to wood, and in this section I have made approximate paper patterns and then fashion the wood directly with sanding sticks and band sander.)
  5. Very true, however this section, like a few others, suggest several options from which a choice can be made. (I know my limitations and avoid calling on skills which I lack)
  6. Lower Deck (cont.) Again the order of build seems important to decide. The following seems easier BEFORE I start, but we’ll see if it remains so. 1)Waterway 2)Ceiling planking/strakes 3)Bitts,Pump, coamings etc 4)Deck planking.( on previous builds I found it easier to plank to, rather than fit things after) The lower deck waterway is 1.6mm thick, beveled slightly against hull to allow the sitting of the strikes, and towards the planks to match the 1mm plank thickness. To be done after planks are fitted. The nominal width is 6.36mm but are cut from wider pieces to allow for the curve of the hull. Scarf joints as suggested, the foreward 3 pieces are made and fitted first, then the aftmost. The missing piece needs a small adjustment to fit. The foremost piece meets the Deck hook and Eking piece at stem. Aft, I made a small beam athwartship for Beam#19, to neaten-off the deck planks. (made pieces in the usual way-photocopy given plan, stick to blank, extra wood left on inner surface and fitted. They needed surprisingly little adjustment for the curve.)
  7. Thank you. opportunity to again remark on the expertise and work that went into producing such a masterpiece.
  8. Lower deck beams #14 to #19 The main difference and problem is fitting the beams and lodging knees where the strake of the deck clamp rises more sharply than the deck, and no longer forms support’ as for the previous beams. Referring to other blogs, this doesn’t appear to happen, which was quite depressing until I reread TFFM p222 again, which confirmed, in this at least, I hadn’t screwed up. The lodging knee also need more acute chamfering and narrowing to match the fellows more forward. Noteworthy, the framing of the ladder companionway, carlings 4.0mm and aft ledge 4.8mm. Another problem is the mizzen mast partner sizes- given as 17.5mm wide, 1.86mm thick octagonal mast hole as 11.13mm The illustrated beam pattern shows this as significantly smaller, but comparing previously made partners, and the relative diameters of their masts, simply went with the given dimensions rather than the pattern .
  9. Beams #10 to #11 -Beam arms These, in shape and function, are a cross between a lodging knee and a curved ½ beam. 3.71mm thickness,they are “tabled” (mortised) to a depth of 0.8mm into fore edge of #11 beam. The “foot” attaches to the hull about halfway between the beams. The lodging knee fills between this and #11 beam. Additionally, hanging knees are aft of beame #10 to 13. Between the outer carlings and lodging knee, the ledges are wedge shaped. There is a special packing piece along the hull between the beam arm and hanging knee#10. The inner carling is a frame of the main hatch and therefore 4mm wide. The first problem is thinking about the best order to make and fit the various pieces. I made the beam arms and dry fit them to the beams off the model. Fix beam to model, then beam arms to beam and the hull wall. Remember to let down the foot of beam arm where it sits on the strakes (I forgot at first ). Hanging knees. Packing piece Iron lodging knee - bracing the outer fore beam arm to the packing piece. (Rather than make one, adapted a piece of left-over copper) I then got confused between the hatch carlings and support of mast partners. At first made the mortises to match those on #9, then thought I’d forgotten to make the to underlap, repaired the mortises, milled under #11for the underlap, fitted the carlings, rechecked, realised that I was looking at pattern for beam #12, looked around for someone to blame (but wife had stayed in the kitchen all morning) undid the repairs and repaired the unnecessary mortises. Phew!! ( The great thing about wood and PVA glue is the ability to repair and redo- a picture is included as an example.) Beam #12 Main Mast partners similar to the fore partners. These are the carlings that underlap that previously caused confusion. Overall width 22.26mm. Thickness 2.12mm and let down 0.53mm Octagonal hole 15.9 mm diam. 2 additional small octagonal holes either side, size 4.77, centred 5.3mm from centre line (for part of pump mechanism) I thought I’d made another error as the carlings don’t cover the shotlocker walls, but double checking measures, this was not supposed to happen. Beam #13 Slight intoeing of outer carlings noted, parallel with narrowing of hull. The thicker 4mm inner carling is notched at fore outer end- the main jeer bitt pin-this extends slightly into the #12 beam. Beam #14 Main variation is the sharper curve of the hanging knee to match the shape of the hull. I also shortened it a couple of mm to match.
  10. Lower Deck Beam #6 First of the HANGING knees. “comma “ shaped vertical piece, foreward to the beam. 3.18 thick, side arm against hull (and shaped to fit the different thicknesses of strakes) and a shorter arm along the beam. The pattern in TFFM acts as a good starting point and I used the edge of band sander and a file for shaping. Because the lodging knee sits against the frame and the hanging knee is against the strakes, I found it easier to mortise the former, although TFFM shows the hanging knee to be notched. Checking other blogs, a similar decision seems to have been made. Some tapering of ends of arms is also mentioned. Aft to the beam, the inner pair of carlings form the side frames of the foreward hatch. They are wider than usual- 4.0mm #7 Beam. There is also a hanging knee The inner, wider carlings form the aft of forehatch frame. Ledges as before #8 Beam Found the pillar incorrectly positioned while dry fitting lodges and moved accordingly. ***Measuring TWICE is not enough. Interdependence requires frequent rechecking with as many reference points as possible*** #9 Beam-#10 Beam. This is a transition zone after which the lodging knees are set aft of beams. It therefore has both! Various options are given, and reference made to a Peter Goodwin book. Apart from a scarph joint, suggestion is a CURVED aft knee, like a horizontal stretched “S”. This appears to give some support to the beam, but leave a small, ?unimportant, gap in the seating of the waterway. In any case the fore lodging knee needs fixing first. The aft tip was thinned for easier passage of the underlying aft lodging knee. I first took a 6.25 blank, made the shape but found that again the presence of the strakes made positioning too difficult. Placing the aft portion against the beam and the hull frames, and the adjusting for strakes thickness while it angle down to pass below the fore knee, was too complicated. So I made 2 copies of the aft knee of normal thickness, and removing the fore part of upper, aft part of lower, some generous chamfering, and made something I think reasonable
  11. I have the small proxxon and the proxxon FET. I am unhappy with the latter for various reasons including the longitudinal stop moving when tightening the toggle screw (handle). Also, with the blade guard in place this stop cannot be less than 1cm from the blade. (working from the right as I do). In fact, using the smaller proxxon is much better for thinner strips eg 1.6X1.8mm. I am seriously thing of ordering a Byrnes. I would very mush like to hear comments and advice.
  12. Has anyone experience with or advice about the use and usefulness of turbo carvers for ship modelling -NOT specifically carving
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