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About stuglo

  • Birthday 04/08/1949

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  • AIM
    learn and build model boats and their history

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    medicine, history travel

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  1. Not really welcome back because as I consult your videos frequently, you have been continuously here. Your a bit ahead of me in your build (at least a year) so don't disappear. I would endorse whole heartedly the 3D renderings. Those of us ignorant in naval architecture need such a visual aid. It goes without saying, your work is superb
  2. The filling pieces. Some specific measurements are given to make an oversize plug to fill the gap between the #4 hawse piece and the 1st cant. It should be dagger shaped with a cross section triangular shape. Couldn’t really see from the diagram how to do this, so took a spoiled hawse piece and shaped one side (length) to the 34.5 bevel so as to match the cant. The importance is to match the “back”. Then trial and error with the hand-held band sander, shaped until fit. The much larger than necessary piece of wood allowed for lots of trial and error. Anyway, it seems to work for me. Whe
  3. Continuing to work on hawse #4 last week, the port side seemed fair but left a peculiar space for the filler. The starboard wouldn’t fit at all. Rechecked the 1st cant against the breadth plan and found that somehow the angle and therefore the distance between timberheads had narrowed considerably. I think this may have been due to the use of spring clamps that exerted too much pressure.I unglued and separated all the hawse pieces and cants. (A BLUNT blade is better for this.) Having separated the cant several times they look a bit worse for ware- so remade them. The hawse piec
  4. Thank you. As you will see when I post next blog, I have remade #1 cants and hawses. I worked off the breadth and body plans with vertical jig and several set squares, and yes, the step is out despite using a cut out of the sheer plans. Be very happy to share problems and solutions. As advised, precision all important,but so much is interdependent that its difficult to know the fundamental point of reference. (PS the etched parts are great)
  5. Last year I used some unopened bottles at least 15 years old. I added a little thinners and it was fantastic. I know nothing on the market to compare. I store all paints upside down anyway. I brushed and the result was very satisfactory.
  6. I have just received my kit of Le Coureur. After purchasing more than 20 kits over 30 years, this sets a new and very high standard. The packaging, detail, ingenuity and value for money makes this a priority on anyone's list.
  7. Checked accumulated max. width of 2xhawses #1and#2, 34.76mm instead of 34.98 -I can live with that. Hawse piece #3 As same bevel as before, at the foot, and outer surface from fore edge. Align this edge with the aft edge of#2, spot rubber glue T foot and where grooves will be.Remember the 0.4 spacers. While stable, holes for guide pins again avoiding air spaces. Mark aft edge of #2 on inner surface#3. I will bevel this later so the piece will be more stable.Mark grooves fore and aft. corresponding to their neighbour on #2. . This time they match the pattern. Similarly mark levels
  8. Has anyone any idea how the figurehead would/could have looked like?
  9. No good deed goes unpunished. I was helping my wife to diet by removing temptation.
  10. Wasn't 100% happy with situation and was undecided whether to start again and remake the last few pieces. This morning things looked a little better and decided to go ahead , finish the #2 hawse pieces and fit them. When aligning the levels of groove and air spaces, not only check against parts already fitted, but against each other (they should mirror exactly). Assuming the guide pins already prepared (if not temporarily rubber glue in place so as to drill for guiding pins , as otherwise it moves so easily). Also remember to place the spacers (in this case, 0.8 below and 0.4 above)
  11. 15th and 16th Oct. (originally tried to post on friday, but after writing it all out, deleted instead of submit - "you pressed the wrong button,bacon brain"-Miss Piggy) Anyway, with timberheads removed, reduced the height of stem/bowsprit grove to its high point of 14.5mm (using the sliding sander) Reposition timberheads with reference to aft aspect of rabbet and lower foot . Luckily (rabbet's foot-ha!ha!) reworking to follow curve is easy. The bowsprit aperture remains the same. Although the bridging chock remained in place, each side needs to be aligned separately. New pin gu
  12. This is good advice illustrated by superb work, as good as the 3D computer illustration. I have of course left meat on the wrong bits,and not on others. I plan to finish each stage then, when see the fuller picture, decide where to remake . Please continue to commit-this is how we learn.
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