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stuglo

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About stuglo

  • Birthday 04/08/1949

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  • AIM
    learn and build model boats and their history

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Israel
  • Interests
    medicine, history travel

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  1. #12 square frame The aft one of the pair is again “cast forward”by 1.06mm-a dogleg that will form an upright for a port. This means that the upper futtock an extra 1.06mm thick.-total 6.36mm. The frame also has a timberhead. Make note of height of sill as the cast must end below this.(11.3cm) Again postponed making the sill mortise-although easier off model, measurement is too critical. I started the shift 10mm above the futtock head.The mill was used to remove the necessary wood and a transition slope ,sanded. Before fixing in place,a critical problem (for m
  2. I purchased them from seawatch- post from USA is expensive but considering overall cost for a POF scratch- worth every penny
  3. #13 square frames. Similar to #14 but with a narrower gap with separation pieces at right angles between the ribs. The gap is 2.3mm, the pieces 3.71wide. The are set above (3.71) and below(4.7)joint line,with an extra one further up the 2 futtock at14.4mm After filing the angle and depth of the “seat”, checking the height of the futtock head against the line previously drawn on the sheer plan. The separation pieces were glued to the (fore aspect) of aft rib, whose seat was then glued to the deadwood. Remember that the fore piece has the extra height -timberhead.
  4. I have found it very useful, but recommend some modification and additions. The parallel keel holder obscures a breadthplan that often needs fixing to board, and makes use of alignment tools difficult. I made 3 rectangular blanks from the excess mdf. The markings are broad, but these are easily supplemented. There could be vertical lines -especially midlines- on the upright squaring board but a plan or grid is easily attached. The squaring board cannot approach stem or stern if their holders are in place. I made an additional board with feet outside the main horizontal board itsel
  5. Square frames. If not the heart and soul, then the “body” of the fully framed ship. The drawings become simple when understood! Each pattern shares a pair of frames- one side represents the fore and the other, the aft. The secret is to keep these separate by overdrawing so as not to get lost. Remembering that at amidships, the direction is reversed. Starting with aft set- the aft one of the pair is “floored”- the joint above the keel. The fore has a chock (separating the two wings) that sits on the keel. This may be obvious to some but I needed a ment
  6. My framing plan is printed up from the digital copy-Not crystal clear. Another casualty of covid
  7. Perfectly clear. Thank you. I have vols 1,2 and 4- so I'll have to complete the set.
  8. A step middle of chock will solve the problem .Thank you. At the risk of being pedantic, I assume a small step on either side so narrower piece sits above in the middle?
  9. This is a great device, but the upper flange supplied is too small and allows slippage of the large sleeves. A simple fix is shown in picture- a jar top.
  10. Need help/advice Now making the the square frames as suggested -reducing size pats/futtocks-10",9.5" and 9". I tapered the transition points and ended with timber tops too thin or wave profile. Should the transition points -chock or scarf- be left as step? What have I forgotten or not understood?
  11. Knee of the Head (my dyslexic son referred to the ”elbow in his leg“ instead of knee) The good news is that we finished chapter 2 (TFFM)!!! This is a set of seemingly simple pieces that make up the foremost part of the ship The gripe was easy- I had already made it when I made the stem -not yet fitted but fortunately found in a “safe”box of bits.The blank is 5.3mm Need to remove from the building slip to fit these parts, which is worrying as the keel is very vulnerable. I supported it with a large piece of sponge. This, and other parts abutting the stem, have “
  12. Received mine after about 8 weeks- travelled half the world by DHL. International post at "cheaper" end is bad. The book (TFFM vol 4) worth the wait. The source is not to blame
  13. I fully agree. Each time I look I see mistakes and inadequate finishing. I keep thinking whether its too late to start again or start another when the hull is finished.
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