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stuglo

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About stuglo

  • Birthday 04/08/1949

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  • AIM
    learn and build model boats and their history

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Israel
  • Interests
    medicine, history travel

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  1. Openings for fixed blocks. Amidships, double block fore of gun port 5, single block aft of gun port 3. Upper margin in line with upper margin of ports. Width of both 10mm, height of double 4.7, single, 3.6mm. I replaced the spacers above the respective sweep ports to close the gaps between the frames and strengthen the opening. I don't have suitable brass rods or the ability to make the small discs to represent the shreeves. Cutting very thin slices( less than 1mm) of wood from a dowel similarly seemed too difficult. So I took some old thin planking
  2. Ports-opening and fitting mortisses. Leaving the finer fairing for later, moved on to the ports. (Gives a rest to the shoulders and breaks the monotony.) Using the sheer plan, take measurements for the openings using the build board level as a base line. To minimise confusion and mistakes, mark out the stations on the top of the frames. Tried various methods including a proper waterline tool(surface guage)- but found ruler , perspex block spirit level + horizontal eyeballing, the best for me. The base measure is the lower line of each opening, which is the upper level
  3. maintains an impossibly high standard. Inspirational and much "how to"
  4. "Here is an example of sanding stick: The sandpaper is rubber-cemented on the lower side of the thin, flexible batten, so is easily replaced." Inspired, I took a well used emery board (nail file) from one of the cheap beauty care shops and it works very well with a piece of broken belt sanding strip. Throw nothing away!
  5. Now I understand. Long and and rigid didn't work well on the inside.
  6. Not quite sure what you mean. Any pictures would be welcome.
  7. Fairing the hull This is THE most frustrating and boring task in POF model building. With POB, only need to do the outside of the hull, which is much easier. This is my 3rd POF so I knew what to expect. For those who complain about ratlines, believe me that tying those knots are an erotic experience when compared to fairing the inner hull. A more accurate forming of the frames could reduce this, but with so many variables, more mistakes and consequent rebuild would be necessary. The whole structure is unstable, anchored only at keel and top of upper futt
  8. I have used my Proxxon BS/E almost daily for the last few years. When it broke, I ordered a new one immediately. I was able to have it repaired so now I have two and sleep more easily. Both hand held and clamped in a vice (via adapter) it is very useful for coarse or crude shaping and finishing. Difficulty in maintaining right angles is a drawback so ample allowance must be made. The "bow" side is good for gentle curves. I used it for tapering, beveling and initial fairing for the outside of the hull The finest paper is only 180 grit but the "aggressive" nature of the tool precludes its use f
  9. #B A pair of bend frames, but they are shown on framing plan with a larger number of spacers (but the but where this should happen is not so marked) I assume this is a mistake. Spacing foreward must allow for a sweep port. The narrowing gap between this pair and #2 is important so as to allow remaining frames to be placed with appropriate spacing. Measured and calculated several times, the gap on the keel seems barely to be enough . #A fore-regular Aft a shift forward which at its upper futtock, widens to close gap to neighbouring fore#1. This is to acc
  10. I would like to add my praise of Sergey at Bibigon in Russia. I received my first batch of pear and black hornbeam and quality is fantastic. Price is fair, delivery within 2 weeks and service is polite and professional. We communicated in english and emails were answered within 24 hours.
  11. Return to lettered frames. #F- my framing plan seems to show a thinned fore face of the fore upper futtock to allow for sweep port. Decided again to postpone mortesses until framing completed to avoid height issues.( Although using the mill before fitting, mistakes may necessitate remaking frame. #E- no shift mentioned, but will need one aft to accommodate another sweep port. #D- In order to allow sweep port foreward and gun port aft ,fore D is straight ie without shift, a wider 3mm space needed between seats of #E aft and #D foreward. #D is also a bend pair-spac
  12. Its a shame I didn't see this earlier, as I have agonized over the frame spacing for the sweep ports. I had thought of this solution and was about to ask for advice on my next post. Its comforting to realise that this journey of ours, is not so simple, yet deeply rewarding. You continue to inspire and these videos are a service to us all.
  13. Square frames #10to-#6 #10-straightforward Just remember that floor is aft and maintain position to the horizontal line as marked on the breadth plan. #9-spacers and fore with timberhead As these are “simpler” I made them with less “spare” and used as a more accurate guide to fairing. Double check that the frames are “vertical”-90deg to the building board. #8- Aft with timberhead and forward shift. Forgot to mill mortises and only noticed after fitting the next set of frames- maybe for the best and decide to leave to later. #7 - a bend pair (with spacer
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