AnobiumPunctatum

Dan, it's a pleasure to follow your detailed descriptions how do you do your job. It will be very helpful in a few years for me.

Your anchors are looking really realistic.

Paddy,

have a look in my signature, my name is Christian. Or make it very short AP - as a lot of people do in a german forum.

That's a nice start. Welcome to ths beautyful project.

The frame is looking really good. I would allow a little bit more wood at this early stage of your build. So it's easier to to sand the whole section after insalling all frames

Dan, the wells are looking great. Thanks for the hint. These small hints are what really help to avoid mistakes.

Ed,

it's allways a pleasure to follow the build of your masterpiece. Many thanks for redoing your build log. It is a great help for me.

Alex,

I like the consturction pictures of your castles. It looks a lot more improvised than the castles in later centuries.

Very nice and precise work. It's looking good.

Guy,

I use the upload functuon off MSW. It works just beautyful. Have a look at your last post. Perhaps you've uploaded the pictures twice?

Your first keel section looks good. I would redo the false keel. It seems that you have damaged it during your modification.

Congrats Rusty, your Confederacy is a very beautyful model.

Wang, its a great pleasure to see the build of your beautyful model in time lapse.

Guy,

the layer method is definitly not faster than the work with a mill. You have to do the taper twice, first time for the middle layer and a second time for the other layers.

Really nice start, Aldo.

There are two parts where a mill is very helpful, the lower apron and the after deadwood. You can do also both parts without a mill. Bob has shown a way to build these parts with 3 layers of timber. I tried his method for my Swan class build last year and it worked very well. Have a look at Modellmarine.de to get a first impression. If it's helpful I will translate the text.

A mill is a good invest for a scratch build modeler because it makes life much easier but not really necessary. >ou can build models also without a mill.

Wonderful, I must say, Remco has taken the challenge

6 pump tubes? Thanks for the hint. I've had a look in my drawings and seen that I've overseen two tubes until now.

Daniel your chock is looking very nice.

If you don't have a mill think of the solution I used for my HMS Fly. I made the first part of the keel and the lower stem from two parts which are half thick than the keel. So you can make the chock very accurate with less effort. Noone will see ths trick later.

Be careful with positioning the lower stem. This is a very tricky part, to get the right anglebetween the keel and the stem.

Aldo,

welcome to this beautyful project. I'll follow your progress withe great interest.

I would go with the pear wood. I personally don't like the darker points in beech

Great progress. Your section looks absolut fantastic.

Hohohoho ...

oh damn it's not Christmas, but cold enough here.  Nice little easter eggs

What kind of timber do you use for the lower hull? Is it holly?

I like the colors of your choosen timbers. Very nice planking job.

The frameing looks really nice. I'll follow your log with great interest.