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AnobiumPunctatum

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Posts posted by AnobiumPunctatum

  1. 20 hours ago, Chuck said:

    That would be so nice but it probably would put the builder at risk of being abused.

    I don’t think so. There is also a lot of support for you there. 
     

    The description of how you make and prepare your gratings shows again what I mean in my last post. I can prepare the gratings with my small CNC-mill and build the jig following your really good description. Thanks very much.

  2. I own a small CNC. What has changed is the precision for cutting out parts. So you begin to think about problems, which you not have, if you cut out parts manually. The model is further build by the model builder. The quality depends further on the knowledge and experience of the builder.

    I prepare my parts directly from my own reconstruction with the CNC. By all the precision It is not possible for me to build my model in the quality you are showing here. I simply love it.

     

    I do not like competitions for my hobby and will never participate in one.

     

  3. The Skuldelev ship shows the same ship as the Roar Ege. Skuldelev 3 is the original wreck, which they found and preserved. Roar Ege is a replica which they have build in the 80th of the last century (if I remember right)

    This kit was my first wooden kit ever as I was a child. You have to cut each plank with a saw. Now the same kit is lying in my stash and waiting.

    Perhaps one day I find the time to build the model again.

  4. I disagree with your meaning, @Dr PR . I have reconstructed until know 3 different ships in 2D and for the first one most of the frames build following my 2D drawings. Everything is fitting really well.

    I also checked my 2D reconstruction with 3D models with the help of a colleague and there are also no waves.

    For construction in 2D it is really important to check the hull with buttock and horizontal lines. If you forget the buttock line it can produce waves.

    I am in the moment busy with the frame drawings for the sloop Fly and I am quite sure that the hull will also be smooth. For my CNC I give later a few tens of a millimeter to allow some tolerances during the build. These are the biggest inaccuracies.

     

     

  5. As the weather has been nice over the last two weeks, I've swapped my little shipyard for my bike. As a result, I haven't got as far as I had planned.

    As I wrote in the last part, I want to try a different technique for the after deadwood, especially to avoid milling on both sides. Firstly, the individual components of the deadwood are milled once with the correct side and once mirrored. In order to be able to glue the two sides together later, recesses are milled into which fitting pieces are glued before gluing them together.
    Alert-006.jpg.f7c5e1daf8131f67f4f21ededd639797.jpg

    The next picture shows the components removed from the board and trimmed.

    Alert-007.jpg.1de39274fd773f681be38a28a668a0ee.jpg
    Before gluing them together, a few small curves that inevitably result from the milling cutter must be removed. I do this with my little Proxxon.

    Alert-008.jpg.2b104f1ccb146e958004e4ebf3cefe3f.jpg

    The last picture shows the individual components after gluing them together.

    Alert-009.jpg.fbe9ea761c14ef7cce267978d82f5c46.jpg
    A weak point became apparent when machining the parts. The direction of the wood grain of the tabs, which are used to position the finished component on the keel, follows the overall part. It would have been better to mill the tabs separately and rotate the grain by 90°. This would have made the components much less susceptible to breakage.

    In the next part of the report, both sides of the deadwood parts will be milled and the deadwood glued together.
  6. The first component for the backbone of the Alert is the Fore Deadwood. This was milled from a piece of boxwood.

    Even though I am very happy with the finished part, I will use a different technique for the aft deadwood. Before I could hold the finished part in my hands, I had a few failed attempts. With a much more complicated component, this method is unlikely to work satisfactorily.

    Alert-004.jpg.edff6238e570fca9115eb2902e83ab5c.jpg

    Alert-005.jpg.666fa18cda01d6c67435832ab2c9fb55.jpg

  7. 7 hours ago, Blacky said:

    It is hard to get that material in europe. And all i ordered from you, was soo expensive in the end cos of shipment and taxes. Almost two times your prices. I need to find alternative wood type. I can afford smaller parts and some ropes but not wood for whole model. 

    In Europe the first choice for builing models is pear wood. There are some compnies in the markt to buy the timber.

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