AnobiumPunctatum

It’s looking perfect.👌 

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Question: Is it wise to shape the cutwater at this point (and set it aside for a really long time)?

By my first try's I glued the Knee of the Head directly to the stem. But in the meantime I think it is much better to do this after building the complete farming of the hull. What you should prepare now is a hole in the stem and the knee that makes it easier to adjust and center the parts later.

Really nice progress, Adam

Really wonderful result, Allan. I thought a really long time how to do this my sloop Fly and you are showing me a possible solution. Thank you.

It's not only the problem which David mentioned. It's also a simple problem working with wood (and also other materials). If you cut and grind your wooden parts 100% exactly to the line, your model keel will be 0.4 to 0.5 mm longer than planned (depends if you have 5 or 6 parts). The glue needs also some space. My experience say that you have to think on 0.1mm for every joint. If you add some thin paper for the caulking you need at minimum 0.15 to 0.2mm for the joint.

Especially at the keel this gives your model some extra length.

With manually cutted parts you can't avoid this. 

Really nice progress 

Hi Chuck, 

I love your designs and have different of your kit at home. One of your designs I am missing is Speedwell. It's good to know, that it is possible to find the kit later also on the market. 

It's good to know, that you plan to make further designs and have different projects you want to do.

I will follow your log with great interest. I have visited the boat a few times in Schloss Gottorf in Schleswig. It‘s a really interesting vessel. In your scale you can build the model with all the fine details 

Really interesting choice, Aetna of the revised Carcass design is on my ToDo list. So I will follow with great interest.

Sorry, but the show is a little bit far away from Germany.🤣

It‘s looking really nice.👍 

Welcome back, Remco. I missed your updates in the last years.

That is a really interesting solution for the ships framing.

I fully agree with your statement.

Congratulation for finishing this beautiful frigate.

Did you make the drawings by yourself? You made really good progress in the last year. Now the fun part will begin.

On 12/16/2024 at 3:13 PM, AnobiumPunctatum said:

No and Yes. In the beginning of her career HMS Triton had white stuff. In the beginning of the 1780th I am quite sure that she got a coppered hull. I will have a look this evening.

I had a look in Winfield: Triton was coppered in June 1778.

10 hours ago, James Flynn said:

Can anyone tell me? Did the HMS Triton have a copper bottom?

No and Yes. In the beginning of her career HMS Triton had white stuff. In the beginning of the 1780th I am quite sure that she got a coppered hull. I will have a look this evening.

I didn’t work with both timbers. In Europe lots of modellers choose pear and cherry.

Expensive is relative. You work a really long time on such a model. So the monthly costs are also for box and pear are not to high.

I think it depends on your personal taste. I have looked at all the woods mentioned. Since I paint my models, I finally decided on boxwood and holly. With natural wood models, the combination of pear and boxwood also works very well. It's best to get some samples and then decide what you like best.

You should better use pear, cherry or boxwood for visible parts. Oak has a much to big grain for the small model.

It's looking really good. Let a little bit more meet on the outside of the frames. This makes it easier to fair the hull after installing all frames.

Have a look in the log of Jorge. He describes especially the start of his project really detailed.

I am not sure, but the first deck you need is the lower deck (orlop). More important is the gundeck which is midships fully visible.

For the keel you can use the keel drawing. There are some detail drawings which should help to cut out the parts. Have a look to the different build logs in the forum. I think they are really helpful, to find your way in the project.

If you print the parts of the model check on your program that the scale of the printout is 100% and not fitted to sid or something similiar. You can check the scale of each print out with the ruler shown on every PDF. It is given the length  of 10 feet in the scale 1/48. In metric scale it's exact 63.5mm. Don't worry about your thoughts. It's the beginning of a really long journey. For me the MSW project was also the start in scratch building.

If you have not much experience I can recommend the cross section as a really  good entry point. It hase the same scale as the full hull build but is much less complicated.