Roberts Orca
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Everything posted by Roberts Orca
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It's snowing outside. Might as well put a few more planks on. Here's some updated photos. Have a great day. 😊
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Here's a picture of my new plank bending jig for the bow. Good day to all. Robert
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Thank you my friend. I've been enjoying the journey. This HMS VICTORY is quite the challenge. I think the only thing that is square is the end of deck boards 😂 everything else has many angles and turns. Would have been fun to see those guys build it in real life. I have a new appreciation for what those guys went through.
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Planking progress. That strip on the bow was fun. I used a quart sized paint can to pre bend the strip. Once dry it fit right in. I was bored so I pinned every plank to each bulkhead with a small piece of toothpick. We're supposed to be getting a foot or so of snow for the next few days. I think I'll keep planking. Best regards, Robert
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Here's a photo of the stern area at bulkhead #14. The blocks go in some time later, but it gave me good reference for shaping #14.
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Thank you Gregory. There's just about everything a ship modeler needs in this site. I've used gap filling CA glue quite a bit building RC aircraft. It's not very forgiving. I'd prefer to use Elmer's or tite bond. Corel doesn't ask the builder to scale the planks, I like the look of it. And they supplied a very good quality walnut for it. I saw a post where someone used separate planks with charcoal in between them. I would like to do that. Finish it with tung oil. I'll keep plugging away. Thank you kindly for taking some time for me. Best regards, Robert
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They are very good. I'm curious, how do you get the second layer of planking clamped in place. I'm considering doing smaller pieces, or strips, and leaving it natural. Appreciate your suggestions. 🙂
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Thank you Rob for the compliment. I've been spending some time studying the forward progress. Especially in the stern area. After looking at some pre shaped blocks that go there, I realized that I need to still take a little more wood off of the last bulkhead. Then I'm going to do some math and try to lay out a plan for the planking. Have a great day. I'll post pictures later today. Best regards, Robert
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Put the first plank on the port side. Checked carefully to make sure it lined up and mirrored the starboard plank, especially at the stern. Been following many other builders and found that tapering planks will be used alot. So I made a tapering jig. It's made from 3/4" melamine. Particle board core with a hardened plastic surface. I cut a saw kerf along the length that is 4.5 mm deep and another that is 4.25 mm deep. The kerf is just wide enough for 2 strips. So I can taper matching strips for both sides. I simply put the strips in the slot and using 120 grit sandpaper and a block I sand down the end flush with the plastic surface. Then sand lengthwise along the strip to taper it up. Works great. Glued in place the first tapered plank next to the port strip. The planking clamps I got in the mail are working good. I'm just using white glue on all surfaces.
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For anyone planning to build the hms victory from Corel, I highly suggest that you glue pieces #31 in place WHILE you're gluing up the bulkheads. They would have actually helped line everything up. And it would have been much easier to glue them in. Having to cut each one to fit, after everything is already together was a PAIN. Thanks to my friend Eugenio, I was reminded to paint them black before I cover them with planking. Got my very first plank on. Starboard side. Runs right along the curve of the quarter deck. I'm fairly happy with the gentle sweep. Soon I will try to match this on the port side. I'm going to take a break and remind myself of the importance of patience. Good day friends. Robert
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Hi Eugenio. So glad I checked my notifications. I had installed all the blocks but forgot to paint them black. Thanks for the heads up. I'm choosing to wait until after the hull is planked before locating my cannon ports. I don't trust my cutouts to line up with a predrilled hole. Just me. Thanks for the tip though. If my way proves to be a mistake, I'll remember you.😃
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Next I'll be working on placement of some blocks that will support the cannons behind each port. In this kit they are #31. Planking the hull is coming soon.
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Couldn't wait to get the quarter deck sanded and brought to life with a sealer coat of tung oil. I'm liking it. Have a great day, Robert🙂
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Hello friends. I finished putting deck boards down on the quarter deck. I'll give it a good sanding after it's dried overnight.
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Great info Gregory, thank you. Yes, it's a little too big still. Mine needs to be in the 12 to 13 mm size. I'll see what I can make. I need to hire some smart flea's. 😁
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One of the things I've learned about model ship building, is that looking forward during construction is very important. At least from a beginner's perspective, it's proven to be a good thing. During my planking the quarter deck, I noticed that bulkheads #10 and #11 needed the tips removed. Fellow modeler Eugenio had previously warned me of this. Thankfully, I was able to remove them prior to covering the deck. I looked forward to see what else I could get done prior to fitting the poop deck. There is a steering wheel to contend with. After viewing the plans, then looking at other references, I quickly realized that the steering wheel provided in the kit is WAY TOO BIG. I don't know what Corel was thinking here. The steering wheel is clearly just under the poop deck next to the mizzen mast, according to actual photos. But the wheel in my kit stands taller than that. So I'm thinking about building my own. Makes me wonder how many other things are incorrect in this kit. It's a bit frustrating, but it's probably a good thing. I'm learning much from my research. If anyone knows where a guy can get an actual 1:98 scale steering wheel, I'd be very thankful. Good day to all. Robert.
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Thank you Gregory for your assisting me on my cannon details. Much appreciated. I'm moving on. I glued in the quarter deck beams, followed up by gluing down the quarter deck. Now I'm planking again. Thanks to everyone who has reached out to me. I'm so enjoying this. Here's some recent pictures. Thanks for stopping by, Best regards, Robert.
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I've looked at all my cannons. Then I looked at the rope that is supposed to go all around each cannon.😳 How is one supposed to apply this rope.🤔 There's no way to attach it like in photos. There must be a compromise. Any input is welcome. Thanks, Robert.
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I love your perspective. Yes, let's build beautiful victories. But most importantly, this friendship. Thank you my friend, Robert.
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Yes. That's awesome. I've heard nothing but great things about Caldercraft kits. Hmmm, maybe my wife could surprise me for next Christmas. 🤔 Thanks. Robert.
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Thank you so much Eugenio. I certainly hope you don't think I'm being critical of your build. I absolutely love what you are producing. A fine work of art. I'm just trying to make decisions about how much realism I want in mine. I'm going to be painting mine. But probably leave the hull natural walnut. I love the look of wood. Like yours. Beautiful. I look forward to seeing your ship continue to come alive. Thank you friend, Robert.
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Thanks Gregory. I'm brand new to the hobby. Tackle, that's what it's called. Appreciate your feedback. I'm enjoying the process and looking at old photos. In all Corel made a very nice kit, but when it comes to certain details they seem to have missed the mark. Not that every detail is so important for my first build. But this seems a bit big deal to me. Thanks again. I'll stick to a single "tackle" for the rear.
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Well the previous photos went in reverse order, but you get the idea 😁
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Learning as I go. I've been studying actual photos of the cannons on the victory. And I discovered originally I didn't include the eyebolt on the bottom center. I'm assuming for attachment to the deck for pulling the cannon backwards. Or for just stabilization. Anyway after gluing those extra eyebolts in, I realized that I glued them in horizontally not vertically like they are in the photos I've seen. So I'll pull them and redo them. Another issue I'm having is the accuracy of the Corel plans. I'm not trying to build an exact replica for my first build, but I don't want to make obvious differences in certain details either. Having said all that, I noticed on my plans, it shows 2 sets of ropes with blocks holding from the rear of each cannon. But in historical photos they show only a single fastening ring on the deck behind each cannon. Can anyone give me perspective on this? I've seen modelers do it both ways, does it matter? Not trying to be overly critical, just wondered. Thanks in advance for any thoughts. Following are a couple photos. The first is from my Corel plans sheet #6. The second photo is from The Anatomy Of The Ship, The 100 Gun Ship Victory by John McKay.
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Eugenio your cannons look awesome!! It's really looking great.
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