Larry Cowden
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Everything posted by Larry Cowden
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Thanks for the prints.
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Thanks will do
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Can you export in native dwg. files for AutoCAD? I would greatly like to have your files for working with and analysis. My email is QRRanger@aol.com.
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I feel your pain on those parts! When I went back to college after the Navy I took Architectural, Mechanical, Civil, and straight Auto Cad. Any 3D work in those areas I did was a struggle at times. I even did a course in Maya! So please, don't apologize to me! Would you email me your files as you go? Native AutoCAD is dwg. I would love to look at them and study what you have done. I still love CAD drafting and find it a really rewarding experience when I design things for actual use. I remember starting AutoCAD courses in DOS! Then going through the various Micro Soft versions. One marine drafting company had me working in Microsoft 3.1 platform with AutoCAD still in DOS! I still have my first PC tower the VA bought me with a split hard drive. One is DOS, and the other side is Windows 98. I haven't given it up because there are valuable DOS civil engineering programs on it that did not migrate to Microsoft.
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I put forth this theory. Every long ship from these boats to tankers and warships all flex to some extents vertically with respect to forces of waves acting on the bow and stern. This boat had ribs slanted for and aft. That was a deliberate design to resist deflection of the bow and stern by heavy wave actions! As the keel and hull flexed vertically with response to wave action, the slanted ribs resisted that vertical flexing. There are numerous records of modern surface ships literally breaking in half due to extreme hull stress by the vertical forces of wave actions. In fact, when we fire a modern torpedo, it does not penetrate the target hull. It explodes midship under the hull! The resulting explosion lifts the target literally out of the water and breaks the keel and hull in half. A vertical arrangement of ribs does not resist such flexing and would more easily snap the keel.
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I admire your skill with Rhino. I never used that one. Do those files translate well into Auto CAD?
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That's a hard lesson to learn. Always back up your work. I kept multiple versions of my drawings on my computer and backed up on a separate hard drive just in case!
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I go with sanding and shaping after laminating them together. Less chance of misalignment and breaking a piece.
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I wish they had really done this in English! I'm sure there were some very interesting details to be known about building this boat!
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Dremel makes a nice small drill press suited for this work. I have one and it works great!
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Go to Mudhole.com. Look up epoxies. The ProKote, ProGlu, and ProPaste Epoxy will meet your needs. I build fishing rods with them and they will certainly meet your needs.
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I don't know if this can help or not. But I have had free access to all upgrades for Auto CAD for the last 16 years. I am a disabled Navy veteran. I can upgrade to all latest versions under the student/ veteran rules for free. I can't use them for commercial licensed use. But I have used many versions of Auto Cad for personal design and construction use. I designed our cabin and garage in Auto Cad in conjunction with our log home company. They were responsible for initial design and construction requirements. They sent me the dwg. files and I made the design changes on my system, then sent them back. It was the absolute great experience of my life in designing our retirement home with everything we wanted in it. I had control of all aspects of design. Electrical layout, plumbing, utilities, garage, insulation, increasing our loft, cabin size, garage size and layout, window specifications, basement wall specs. And internal layout of the cabin and garage. Check into this.
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If it is within your budget, there are a number of good desk top hobby table saws much smaller than full size table saws that will give you the ability to do this.
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I work in AutoCAD. I designed our cabin and garage, utilities, and everything else in CAD. Make sure your dwg file is the same as your print scale. I used Staples to print my blue prints. And I checked them with scale and they were correct.
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Good analysis. But it would seem to be a regular routine when preparing for a sea voyage that the shields most certainly would be lashed down firmly to the rail. I'm a 21 year Navy veteran with service on submarines and surface ships. And on a surface ship shields like these most certainly could protect the crew from wind and waves to some extent given their otherwise open deck arrangement. I have been through many really severe storms at sea and I can tell you that if things are not lashed down properly, people and equipment suffer damages and injuries. I did 10 years historical reenacting from F&I through Fur Trade. As for weapons, that is for a different debate.
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I looked at that one on Lowe's site and I have reservations about its use on small parts. Jig saw blades create a lot of vibrations and splintering with plywood. Even the finest tooth blade will still give you fits. And you cannot cut tight curves. Look at the actual scroll saws listed. They can use very fine blades for scroll work, pretty much eliminates splintering with plywood, and won't damage your parts due to the vibrations. The cut surface is also much smoother requiring less filing or sanding.
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Get your self some builders shims from HD or Lowe's. These are cedar or pine shims tapered to very thin surface. They should work fine for supporting your keel at both ends. Wax them to prevent glue sticking to them.
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I have a Shopsmith scroll saw. Works great for things like this. I recommend adding a power scroll saw to your shop.
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For the work you have described, the best setup is a router table with a guide pin to control the shaping of the rabbit. You can control the start point and end point of the rabbit and tapering from there. Dremel has the equipment to do this.
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