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rraisley

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    email: rraisley@bellsouth.net

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  1.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Stunsail Booms and The Rest
  2. rraisley
    That makes a lot of sense. So the only thing I would model might be some eyes on the boom to connect the tackle. Actually, just one eye on the inner end would work.
  3.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Stunsail Booms and The Rest
  4.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Stunsail Booms and The Rest
  5. rraisley
    I haven't seen an eye bolt on any boom drawing. This drawing posted in another thread: Does show a hold through the boom, close to inner end. McGowan appears to show a ring or cap on the inner end, to which a tackle is attached Also, when the studdingsails are not in place, would the blocks mounted on the booms (again, shown in McGowan) which are used to hold the studdingsail yards and sails still be in place on the boom, just not used?
  6. rraisley
    Back on the Studdingsail Booms, how are they moved in and out? While Studdingsail Yards and Sails are beyond the scope of my Victory cross-section (not having them), I'm sure there should be lines to extend and retract the Booms. But I don't see in McKay any attachments directly to the Booms. Page 190 of McGowan's HMS Victory book appears to show a tackle between the inner Stunsail support iron and the end of the boom, roped back to a block under the main spar, that would extend the boom, and ropes to the end of the boom which might go back to near the after mast, but I'm not sure and don't th
  7.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Mast Lengths and their above deck heights for HMB Endeavour
  8.    archnav reacted to a post in a topic: Mast Lengths and their above deck heights for HMB Endeavour
  9. rraisley
    As an retired engineer, I found this topic very interesting, especially the Age of Sail Ships available on Age of Sail Books at the Historic Naval Ships Association. I also noticed with great interest Plate 5 of Chapter 1, which shows top masts and yards, as it definitely shows a practice I always felt was correct, but often not modeled, in the shape of the spars. I think typically, on models, spars are tapered linearly, that is having a constant taper beginning at the normally straight/parallel/octagonal center section, and tapering to a smaller diameter at the end. Thus, t
  10.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Hatch Gratings - Clipping the End Tabs
  11. rraisley
    I use flush-cutting cutters (one "board" at a time), then sand with a sanding block. I did try a small belt sander once, but it got carried away (without my assistance), and kind of messed one up.
  12.    Rik Thistle reacted to a post in a topic: Has Anyone Used Surgical Binocular Loupes
  13.    thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic: Has Anyone Used Surgical Binocular Loupes
  14. rraisley
    I appreciate all your views. I'm a bit surprised that in the reviews of the medical style binocular loupes, no one has mentioned modeling, only dental and medical use. I do have an Optivisor, and while it's a quality piece of equipment, I find it very cumbersome to use. You have to lift the hood up to see normally, and it very much limits view. The 3.0, 4.5 and 6.0 diopter reading glasses have been a great benefit in that way, easily seeing above or below the lenses, their extremely light weight, etc. But higher power means having your head extremely close to the work, which is wha
  15. rraisley started following Has Anyone Used Surgical Binocular Loupes
  16. rraisley
    My 78 year old eyes are not what they used to be. And after cataract surgery, for which I paid extra for dual-focus (close and far) vision, turned out to be great for far, and crap for close, I've resorted to 3 pair of closeup reading glasses: 3.0, 4.5 and 6.0 diopter. They work pretty well, but require my object to be within as little as 6" from my glasses, not always optimum. I was watching a TV operation tonight, and they used Surgical Binocular Loupes. A bit of research turned up these on Amazon. Not professional quality, but they give you 3.5 power at a distance of 420 mm (16"
  17. rraisley
    Similar to Jaager, I used a cut-off brad inserted into the bottom of the mast, and drilled a matching hole in a block at the keel. On my Victory cross-section, right from the beginning, I glued a piece of 1/16" walnut sheet across the top, from one side of the hull to the other, with a matching hole for the mast. In all stages of construction, from when I first started the hull until the net to last deck went on, I've simply slid the mast in place and used it as a guide to placing of support members and openings on all decks. By the time I got to the upper gun deck, the mast was held securely
  18. rraisley
    I bought the Wen 1/2" x 18" on Amazon (US) for $36.40 in January, and have found it very useful. From sanding off the extensions of grating assemblies, to tapering the pieces on the top of the Victory top, to squaring off portions of masts. At low speed, it works well enough, is easy to handle, and I even occasionally use it in my den, over the wastebasket, with my cat only 3 feet away, and it doesn't bother her. Definitely worth the money for me.
  19. rraisley
    I have the same problem with my HMS Victory cross-section: Longridge's book shows parrals with rollers on the upper two locations, but mentions a truss on the lower mast. Yet the only drawing I've seen of a truss is simply a rope looped around it. It just seems funny to me we have a fancy holding mechanism on the upper two, and a length of rope on the lower one. I'm really fairly stymied on the procedure with the main mast and spars; I know there should be blocks attached in some places, but it's hard to determine where. I'm afraid of getting ahead of myself, and finding it impossi
  20. rraisley
    My only modeling tool for a l-o-n-g time was one of my dad's double edge razor blades. You know, the kind that cut the two fingers holding it with the less-sharp interior cuts. Later on, I learned to cover one edge with masking tape, meaning I could apply more pressure. When I discovered single-edge blades, I thought I was in Heaven! I honestly don't remember any other tools in early modeling, as my dad's tools were mostly too large.
  21. rraisley
    Keith Black's posted pic shows some fairly complex arrangements for attaching the spar to the mast. As mentioned previously, info I have indicates the Victory's upper 2 spars have roller-style Parrals, but mentions the lower spar has trusses. It's hard for me to imagine that while the upper two use complex Parrals, the lowest, heaviest spar uses a single rope wrapped around the mast (per Dr PR's drawing above).
  22. rraisley
    Thanks for the diagram, Keith. I'm not sure how much applies to the Victory. The Parrals shown by Longridge have the rollers, rather than the types shown. I don't know if the Wooden Yokes would be used with that or not. And he says that Yokes, NOT Parrals were used on the lower mainsail yard, but the yokes in the diagram connect to parrals. Confusing. But the diagram is nevertheless very helpful and interesting.
  23. rraisley
    Continuing on my Victor cross-section, I'm a bit unsure how the 3 spars are held to the mast. The kit shows no attachment except by blocks. Longridge has nice views of the Main and Topsail yards but not the Topgallant yard. The main mast appears supported by 2 sets of double/triple 26" blocks. A rope is shown around the mast, but no Parral is shown. The Topmast yard is held by a single 2" double type block, and a Parral is clearly shown. The Topgallant yard has nothing shown; the kit indicates two double blocks holding it. The Main yard show ropes looped around the mast and and sup
  24. rraisley
    Thank you all, that helps a lot. A new phase of my education begins..... (at age77 😉

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