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Balclutha75

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Colorado, USA
  • Interests
    Hiking, Photography, Travel, Reading Historical Non-fiction

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  1. Thanks for posting and good luck moving forward. Indeed, this should be helpful for future builders. I've run into a similar issue on my Amati build, fairly serious it seems to me. I'll try to post an update to my build log with a similar hope - offer help to the next beginner tacking the kit. Still, you've got a nice boat looking here.
  2. Very belated Happy Birthday and congrats on getting a photo in the NRG calendar! I bought one last night, got the shipping notice already, and after the fact saw the thread about it here. Cool!
  3. Also sorry to read of these troubles. I can't offer any help, but it looks like you have some great minds working on it. I'm having a similar problem on my Amati kit, as more planks are glued they are getting farther and farther away from the frames. I'm about to turn the corner and be above deck. Not sure what I'll do as there will be a gap between the frame and plank that shouldn't be there. I don't recall other Amati builders having this problem. Hopefully there will be a solution, but I'll burn that bridge when I'm standing on it. Good luck with your
  4. Andrew, Yes, the Jack P log is another masterpiece, full of all kinds of fascinating diversions, like yours. Here is where he drills the holes for his nails. He may mention the source farther down. I should reread the whole thing. Lace making pins were new to me. I've since downloaded a catalog (catalogue?) from the Tichy train group that has lots of track nails. Rolling your own crossed my mind and I even wondered if I could use square stock, but I let that thought quickly go. - Nelson
  5. In case you missed this guiding light, check out killickthere's log which has good info how he put 2,500 rivets in his Billing Oseberg. He used lace making pins. There may be other options I've looked into. But I'm not yet sure if I'll cross that bridge for my Amati kit, or burn it!
  6. Thanks for the encouragement Steven! There are a number of construction flaws I could point out, but all in all, considering it's a first ever model so far it's "OK". Next up, I've just purchased a can of MinWax pre-stain conditioner and will start experimenting with applying stain to some scrap pieces.
  7. Making some slow progress, now have four strakes on each side, but want to point out a problem in case it helps another beginner some day. Kind of related to my shim question above. After the 4th strake I dry fitted the bow and stern deck pieces and they didn't fit. The strakes were bent in to far after the last frame. So I'm having to sand a bit off each of the decks. Now I'm planning to glue these pieces before adding any more strakes, which should help reestablish the proper curve to the hull. The circles show where I had to sand to get the deck to fit.
  8. The red-yellow resonates with me because I was thinking to make my top two strakes red and yellow, and do the sail similar colors. But I also like your red-yellow-blue, 7th one down, I guess reminiscent of the Sea Stallion. In any case another great use of your 3D modeling. The "Oseberg Buddha" has a bit of red-yellow theme. I have a couple books on my bookshelf with red and yellow dust jackets that look nice. Non-Viking related but kind of classics in their genre.
  9. Another vote for your brilliant plank aligning clamp idea. Thanks for sharing that.
  10. Looks nice to me. Your 3D model visualization is pretty cool. Can I ask a question here? From post #76 it looks like those strakes are already glued in place. Does that mean you'll paint carefully using masking tape? As opposed to painting before gluing? Thanks.
  11. My little shim seemed like it achieved the desired effect. Whether it was actually necessary or not is an open question, but I'm glad I did it. I did do something I had thought of earlier up thread - used my new divider to transfer the distances on the 1:1 scale drawing to the bow. Presumably that will help in correctly positioning the strakes as I proceed with gluing.
  12. Ditto that, really cool! I'm curious to see what you have planned for the black and red and by the way, thanks for that interesting color chart and history you posted a few week ago. I bookmarked it for future reference at the time.
  13. Thanks for sharing this process, it's all been super educational for me. I was interested in your staining before removing the planks, something I had been scratching my head about. I decided to glue first stain later. Good luck and stay well!
  14. Another vote (from a complete newbie, so worth less than $0.02), for Walnut A. Agree with Cathead that the mahogany Is too red. Did you decide against oak? The Model Expo paints I have are short, squat bottles. Now I see there’s a practical reason for that. Thanks for the linguistic lesson. Louie, your Hasting Battle looks incredible.
  15. Thanks Steven, I’ll probably go this route. But no worries, no doubt I’ll have something worse visible to everyone before I’m done.
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