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    Colorado, USA
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    Hiking, Photography, Travel, Cooking, Reading Historical Non-fiction

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  1. I happened to see this build and think you have a beauty shaping up. Cousteau was a high-school hero of mine (mid-1960's) and I owned copies of both The Silent World and The Living Sea by the time I was 15, kind of weird for a kid. In 1971 I spent a year working on a boat called the RV Fathom II, that we outfitted for salvage work in the Caribbean. It was a YMS minesweeper and at the time we thought it might have come from the same shipyard as the Calypso, though I'm not sure of that now. But I can say with certainty that it had 4-bladed props. Here's a couple
  2. Making progress on the deck now, the planks are all glued. I've started experimenting with stain colors, and perhaps even learning some weathering techniques. (This is different than just doing a poor beginner's job so that it kind of looks weathered, although that may yet be the outcome!) For now I'll share this one photo from last week of the sub-deck being glued into position. Captain Aegir came aboard to inspect his cargo of precious stainless steel ingots.
  3. Thanks Eric, much appreciated! For me it was the right decision to get the second kit, even if it's still not going to be a masterpiece. But I'm having a lot of fun and learning all the time. The shield rail is part of the Amati kit. Working on the deck planks now. Coincidentally I just finished scanning something that I'm going to send you regarding your rigging question from your log. It's from an Osprey book I have "The Viking Longship" by Keith Durham. It might be useful. I don't think I can post it here since it's copyrighted.
  4. I'll admit to being confused for a moment, but then got straightened out. I confuse easy in any case. Thanks for posting this information. Some of it has gone over my head, but it's pretty interesting. Seems like CA is a good tool to have around and use in the proper situation.
  5. Thanks guys, this is what I learned by trial and error. I have to glue some small parts to an already stained surface but will sand the stained piece beforehand.
  6. Xtreme newbie modeler here, with a question for you guys. I just used some CA glue on my model for the first time. It's the DAP RapidFuse, one of the thicker varieties, with a 30 second set time. Based on my observations, it seems CA glue will bond, at least to some degree, on painted, stained, or sealed wood. But PVA glue will not bond in these situations. Is that accurate? Apologize if this is covered above, but I didn't see it.
  7. Nice work Eric. You have given me some inspiration for my much smaller and rougher kit. Thanks. I also decided rivets were not worth the effort, but might reconsider at some point. I'd only need about 200 if I did along the frames only, and maybe 800 if I did all of the hull. Less than 1/4 of what you need. They will be largely invisible when the model is on display.
  8. Thanks for the likes guys, appreciated. Nice thought Steven, but getting impossible. The first hull has been used for a variety of experiments including stain colors, varnish, plank bending with heat, gluing the cap rail, and most recently installing rivets. The brass rivets that come with the kit are too large, I think. The heads are 1.6 mm diameter or 80 mm / 3 1/4 inches to scale. Seems oversize. But I did use a sanding drum on a Dremel to make them smaller and flatter. Also tried #8 sequin pins, which have smaller heads. I blackened them with Birchwood Ca
  9. However, strake 9 still resisted this technique. After several tries I decided to install a boxwood strip as a shim. This solved the gap problem but the boxwood looked terrible on the inside of the gunwale. Since I have the two kits I decided to take some deck planking from the first kit and use it to line the gunwale, hiding the boxwood. Somewhere I saw a photo of a replica Viking boat that had apparently done this. If any justification was needed, that was good enough for me. Finally, the hull was complete. I stained it with a mix of che
  10. Here is a brief recap of some decisions made along the way. One of the problems I had on the first kit was that the frames were not square to the keel. This was because I used some 99 cent hardware store brackets for alignment. For this round I decided to purchase a Hobbyzone Small Building Slip. It gets decent reviews and cost $34 in the USA plus shipping. It’s better than anything I could cobble up. With a minor modification I was able to fashion a poor man’s “jack aubrey style” alignment jig. On to the framing. Interestingly the strake plywood in this kit was q
  11. In the belief that it’s better to get back on the horse than walk away, I decided to try again to construct the Amati Drakkar model. Of course, it’s better to not fall off the horse in the first place, but that option doesn’t usually exist for me. My first attempt ended when I decided that the hull was not forming along the ribs properly and was pulling too far away as I approached the gunwale. As it turned out I abandoned ship too soon. I have since learned that, with some effort, I could have disassembled the hull and tried again. Live and learn. Here is t
  12. Thanks bigpetr, of course I have to get the holes drilled in the correct location when I get to that step! The discussion on shields and other details of Viking customs is fascinating, thanks guys. The lack of solid evidence in certain cases would, it seems, allow some leeway for a novice modeler to chose personal aesthetic appeal over complete historical accuracy, since the latter may not exist. Here is another article, which I probably originally found on MSW: http://www.hurstwic.com/history/articles/manufacturing/text/norse_ships.htm which says: "Th
  13. Andrew, I'm so very sorry to this tragic news. My deepest and heartfelt condolences to you. It's a beautiful photo of you guys. I have really enjoyed following your build log, filled with your wit, intelligence and humor, and I look forward to your return when you are ready. Nelson
  14. Larry, thanks for that. There are quite a few discussions here in various Viking ship build logs (binho, liteflight, Jack P, Matt H, among others come to mind, hope I have those right). Questions about if and when the shields might have been mounted. As I recall, your explanation is a good one. Louie da Fly, a Viking expert here, has posted quite a few good links to shield information. I can easily dig those up if you have not seen them. (No pun intended on "dig those up".) One problem with some of the kits apparently, perhaps even mine, is that as designed the kit wou
  15. Cathead, thanks for checking in, much appreciated! The answer to new kit or fiddling with the old one is: both of the above! I did get a new kit and have been s.l.o.w.l.y moving forward on it. There have been some screw ups, but I'm up to the sheer strake now. There still exists the problem of that strake having moved away from the frame no matter what I tried. It's better than the first attempt and I am forging ahead with a possible solution that I think will look OK. The jury is still out. My plan has been to get the hull completed to a point where I'm satisfied, and then start
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