Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Colorado, USA
  • Interests
    Hiking, Photography, Travel, Cooking, Reading Historical Non-fiction

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi Eric, Nice progress you've made, in spite of the frustrations and issues. In case it slipped your mind, here is killickthere's log entry where he discusses his 2,000 rivet solution using lace pins. Yet another option. I'm wondering what I'll do at this stage, presuming I get this far in my Take Two attempt on my kit.
  2. I wondered the same thing. If you look at the photo of the instructions Matt posted above, Fig 15, "Planking Courses Compacted" according to my translation, you really can't see why scoring was necessary. And in fact, here is a build log from Mike Dowling where he says "I felt no need to cut along the strakes, as suggested in step 12 of the instructions". And later he notes, "the bow and stern the steps on the frames are of no use at all. It was impossible (for me, at least) to lay the strakes against the frames. I ended by fairing the the frames and erasing the steps."
  3. Thanks Louie, and I’ve really enjoyed all the Viking history stuff you have posted on various logs. Glad you survived the Battle of Hastings!
  4. As a newbie modeler all I can offer is it’s looking good. But I just finished reading “The Hard Way Around: The Passages of Joshua Slocum” by Geoffrey Wolff. Highly recommended if you haven’t seen it. Good luck on your build.
  5. That all sounds pretty reasonable, but they will (hopefully) look cool on a calm bookshelf. 😀
  6. Matt and Louie, thanks so much for spending time on this. I have seen Matt's excellent log, and he even answered a question for me about a step that I'm not even close to yet. 🙂 I did see the instruction about scoring the wood, but I was worried that I'd break the plank if I attempted that, especially after the step above where they recommended soaking the wood in a 50/50 glue solution first. But clearly that's something I'll have to experiment with and should have tried that on some scrap pieces before forging ahead. Matt, thanks for that clarifying photo as I had not
  7. Thanks for the comments , much appreciated. cathead and liteflight, I've noted your logs, seen that I'm not the only one with this kind of problem, and trust you guys will come up with a good solution. Louie, yes irony is more accurate, as of course no harm was meant or implied, I think I understand what you are saying as a fix, and I do have a couple of small metal C-clamps. But I'm reasonably sure the frame will crack if I attempt that without somehow softening the hull. It's a lot stiffer than I thought it might be. I've considered just contin
  8. Thanks md1400cs! I'm actually pleased with how it generally looks, and have had a lot of fun working on it.
  9. I suspect many of you have been waiting on tenterhooks to see how this build has been progressing, and that you can recognize sarcasm when you see it. I've slowly moved forward in between several large home projects, and have now reached a possible impasse. The hull planks have been moving steadily away from the frames for several strakes. I saw this happening but figured I would come up with something near the last strake. And I think I have: my goose is cooked! As you can see, the angle of the u
  10. Thanks for posting and good luck moving forward. Indeed, this should be helpful for future builders. I've run into a similar issue on my Amati build, fairly serious it seems to me. I'll try to post an update to my build log with a similar hope - offer help to the next beginner tacking the kit. Still, you've got a nice boat looking here.
  11. Very belated Happy Birthday and congrats on getting a photo in the NRG calendar! I bought one last night, got the shipping notice already, and after the fact saw the thread about it here. Cool!
  12. Also sorry to read of these troubles. I can't offer any help, but it looks like you have some great minds working on it. I'm having a similar problem on my Amati kit, as more planks are glued they are getting farther and farther away from the frames. I'm about to turn the corner and be above deck. Not sure what I'll do as there will be a gap between the frame and plank that shouldn't be there. I don't recall other Amati builders having this problem. Hopefully there will be a solution, but I'll burn that bridge when I'm standing on it. Good luck with your
  13. Andrew, Yes, the Jack P log is another masterpiece, full of all kinds of fascinating diversions, like yours. Here is where he drills the holes for his nails. He may mention the source farther down. I should reread the whole thing. Lace making pins were new to me. I've since downloaded a catalog (catalogue?) from the Tichy train group that has lots of track nails. Rolling your own crossed my mind and I even wondered if I could use square stock, but I let that thought quickly go. - Nelson
  14. In case you missed this guiding light, check out killickthere's log which has good info how he put 2,500 rivets in his Billing Oseberg. He used lace making pins. There may be other options I've looked into. But I'm not yet sure if I'll cross that bridge for my Amati kit, or burn it!
  • Create New...