Spaceman Spiff
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Everything posted by Spaceman Spiff
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I haven't seen one of those in years! I got a chance to pick up Trumpeter's 1/350 Yorktown (CV-10) which included several sheets of PE for a great deal...It looks to be an awesome build that will probably get to in a few years. Too many things waiting on deck! Found this on ebay for a great price - like $50 U.S. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trumpeter-1-350-Kit-5608-USS-Lexington-CV-2-Aircraft-Carrier-1942-/370936048210?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item565d82ea52#ht_166wt_937 Worth a look if you want to build the Lexington in 1/350... -
Hey Kimberly, are those Valejo paints you are using? I ask because the bottles look the same. I have only used them on figures - great stuff!
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Wow! Great work! I have been building plastic models for the better part of 20 years - aircraft, armor, and a couple of ships. I must say, that yours looks awesome! I haven't done a Revell ship since the old Constitution way back when. Keep up the good work - all of the problems are just lessons, although I don't see any mistakes in yours! Great job!
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5 cannon raised from wreck of Blackbeard's ship
Spaceman Spiff replied to BareHook's topic in Nautical/Naval History
That's awesome that they could identify that! My question is how they can identify a shipwreck if the ship has deteriorated and nothing discernible remains? -
It's the same as the Tamiya, with the exception of thier (Tamiya's) weathering sticks - meaning they don't have glue and you don't need glue unless going for a specific look. As a build up of dust, soot (from guns, etc.), or dirt I just put the pastels on with a brush. When I do armor kits, I mix the pastels in with white glue to replicate mud. Rust can be very easily copied with pastels - I get the proper color and mix it with a bit of water and use a brush (the smaller, the better) and apply it that way. Sometimes mulitple applications are needed, but it works great. I will try to post a pic of my Tiger tank later if I can remember. Of course, if you don't seal it, then be careful of how you touch it - and as we all know, sealing changes the color and original look. That's why I apply it last most times.
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Oh yeah, those work great. Also, you can get "pastel" chalks from any store (Micheal's, etc.) in a multitude of colors for much cheaper than the Tamiya powders what work just the same. Just use some sandpaper to grind some up and apply with a brush, q-tip, or whatever. All good stuff!
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5 cannon raised from wreck of Blackbeard's ship
Spaceman Spiff replied to BareHook's topic in Nautical/Naval History
It's not a bad place, Q A's Revenge. I like the pecan encrusted salmon..but we don't eat there too often. As I said before, it isn't too bad as far as restaurants go, but they get most of their business from tourists. -
5 cannon raised from wreck of Blackbeard's ship
Spaceman Spiff replied to BareHook's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Interesting. Blackbeard was known to frequent my town of Savannah - in fact, one of the buildings (taverns) he "visited" is still standing and today is known as the Pirate's House - it is the oldest building in Savannah. Something little known: Blackbeard died in the Pirate's House. As far as food goes, it is an average place but has a very interesting history. In one corner, there is a hole leading to a tunnel that runs to the Savannah River. In those times, it was used by pirates to shanghai drunken sailors and have them serve on their ship. Interesting indeed. The discovery leads to me to ask this question: Just how are they able to identify a certain shipwreck? Like Blackbeard's for instance - unless there is a name that is readable, how can they positively say it was his ship? Of course, some will say records indicate a ship sank...or whatever. But, to me, that still wouldn't give absolute proof. Is there any way to positively identify a wreck that has deteriorated well beyond recognition? Thanks! -
You are doing excellent work! Am very impressed! Two things: First, omitting something that was actually on the ship for fear of hurting someone's feelings is, for lack of better words, is utterly ridiculous. If someone complains or is "insulted" or offended by such, then its their fault for clicking on the link in the first place. After all, the Bismark is a famous ship... Ok, enough ranting! It's just that things are getting out of hand a little. Second, if you are having a hard time finding PE for your model, why not scratch some stuff out of styrene? Evergreen makes a lot of different types - rod, tube, I-beam, etc. - and sheets in different sizes, thickness, etc. That's what I am having do for my Dad's carrier. Your work is incredible and please don't remove because some may have thin skin!
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^What he said. There are many methods one can use to weather models. I also build plastic model airplanes and weather all of my models because I like to portray them in use and not factory fresh. I use an Iwata airbrush for painting and most weathering. For example, let's say I am building a P-47: I weather faded paint by first painting the base layer - in this case, I will be using olive drab as the base coat. After allowing the paint to dry for a day, I will mix in some yellow to "fade" the OD. I spray the center of the panels up to the edges blending, so that it is darker around the edges and lighter as it goes in. I also use washes and powders, too. I do a good bit of dry brushing as someone else said, but that really is just to make raised detailes pop. Of course, if you use a sealant (either flat or gloss) the look of the painted parts will change in appearance - so take that into account, also.
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Bismarck by NBP - 1:100
Spaceman Spiff replied to NBP's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
That is awesome work so far! Please keep us up-to-date! Are you working from plans? -
Thanks! Will look for those! Eric
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There was a book mentioned in one of the threads (I know, I forgot to get the title) that I think was written by an 18th century seaman - kind of like a seaman's guide or something to that effect. I recall the thread said it is an excellent guide for rigging, etc. I apologize for not giving very much information but I have faith in the great people here! Any suggestions? Thanks, Eric
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Thanks for the input! Might just go with the AVS because of what you said and the fact that I like the cannons! I do need the planking prep - I snapped up a MS Constitution at a great price for much later down the road...
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Checked out your build log - it looks awesome! If you don't mind me asking, how was that for your first ship and did you have any wood working experience beforehand? I am very impressed with your work!
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Thank you all for the help and time you spent answering my questions! I am torn between the two...so it may be both! But, as Brian and NickM suggested, will also take a look at others to keep my options open. I can't thank all of you enough!
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decals question
Spaceman Spiff replied to PopJack's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I haven't used decals on wooden kits yet, as all of mine have been plastic/resin. As others have said, decals set best to a glossy surface, which reduces the chance of silvering, too. Nobody has mentioned using Future as a base for decals - it can either be brushed or airbrushed on. It has excellent self-leveling properties and when dries produces a smooth surface, assuming, of course, that the surface isn't pitted or the like. I use it all the time over matte or flat paints - it does make the surface glossy but I always use a satin or matte coat to seal everything. It also is an excellent base for metallic paints that demand a smooth surface (that is, depending on what effect you are going for). If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask! Eric -
I have been reading the threads and pdf on entry level kits, and most agree on two things: that POB ships are generally easier to build than solid hulls, and that the kit should be one someone is interested in. In the info packed thread "what is entry level in the world...", a poster mentioned both MS's Armed VA Sloop and the Mayflower as kits that is not out of reach for a beginner. With that said, I am considering either of those two kits as my first wooden ship. I really like both for different reasons and have seen the Mayflower II and have a lot of pictures of it, too. Are either of these two ships a decent choice? As I said in my original thread about entry level kits, I have been building resin/plastic models (ships, planes, etc) for a long time - and to include the wooden r/c planes, also. I want to get into wooden ship modeling because I like the challenge - and after seeing a guy working on a model of the Constitution in Boston, I have the fever (did I mention that I am a Constitution freak?)! Thanks for any advice and help you can provide! Eric
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^This. Of course, I always use Humbrol's Satin Cote as a final layer. Everything is weathered, too. Because operational aircraft, especially in those theaters, don't appear factory fresh unless they just rolled off the line or repainted. With that said, I like to go for the effect as it appears in pics. The brilliance is still there but toned a bit after weathering and final coat...
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Not saying it doesn't, but I have had the best success when attempting brilliant reds with a white primer than just the light grey plastic. Certainly not a professional painter by any means. It really depends on what look you are going for - so far, my model painting has been limited to plastics. For example when painting a 4th FG P-51 spinner and cowling in red, I prime it first because of the red's appearance in pics. Same goes for when I did the Luftwaffe's tulip scheme on 109's. I like Tamiya's white primer the best for those reasons. Don't think that I am arguing with you because I am not. I am just speaking from what has worked best for me, thats all.
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You can use a grey primer for red, however it will show a little darker than if over a primed white. Tamiya fine primer in the rattlecan (only way it is available) - either white or grey - is awesome stuff. Personally, I use the white because it covers so good - I have used it as the white coat on several 1/48 F-4 Phantoms I have built.
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Popeye2sea, To get a good coat of red you will need to prime it in white, or at least a very, very light gray. Same goes for yellow. I always prime white when painting red and have never used more than one coat. If you don't prime it first, the red (same goes for yellow) will always be off. Hope that helps!
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I also have a Craftsman compressor. Can dial the pressure to as low as I want it - I typically use from 15 - 25 psi with my Iwata HP-BCR. Great airbrush for not a lot of price!
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I am new in the world of wooden ship building and am looking for suggestions for entry-level kits. I have read where MS's Armed VA Sloop is a good choice - is this correct? I want something that I can cut my teeth on and learn planking, rigging, etc. I have built other types of models for most of my life, but am fascinated by wooden ones and am completely addicted to the U. S. S. Constitution - which, by the way I purchased (MS's version) on sale (couldn't pass up the deal). Rest assured, it will be put away for quite some time until we move into a new house. I have an all-resin kit of my Dad's carrier (LPH-11 U. S. S. New Orleans) that I may do a build log on here, but that sort of thing doesn't seem popular on here. What say, members? Back to my original question - what is a good starter/learner kit to help prepare me for what lies ahead in the Constitution? I prefer American ships, or ships that are in American service, if possible. Thanks in advance! Fair winds and following seas!
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