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Everything posted by Spaceman Spiff
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I’ll measure it when I get back to my table. I can’t open the drawings you sent as the file is too large.
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It seems like my modeling time is limited…teens will do that lol. Small update. I cut strips of thin styrene sheets and glued them to the edge of the flight deck. Once I put the catwalks on along with all the odds and ends, it will look halfway decent. Hopefully. Now, the next big issue is the elevator area. Not only is it jacked, but the guide rails are off. See photo. My plan is cover the area with sheet styrene and cut the opening to shape. I wasn’t kidding when I said this kit was a real piece of work.
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Quick updates with no pic, however. My idea of milliput/putty sucked for the most part. I do have very thin sheet styrene that I’ll cut in strips and glue to the edge of the flight deck. Since I have to relocate the catwalks to their appropriate places, it should fit perfectly and look a lot better. Stay tuned.
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A little more progress. I have gone the route of milliput and Perfect Plastic Putty. As you can see, one part is sanded, and the other isn’t yet. I’m happy with it so far. Attached are pics of the real ship and the instructions. You can see the poor instructions - bad kit and worse instructions which don’t even show every piece included with the kit. The instructions would have you put the walkways lower than they actually were, so I will relocate them up near the deck. Which, with all the odds and ends, would hide a bit of my rework. Light at the end of the tunnel.
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Thanks! Experimented with a bit of milliput for the gap filling last night- a bit of a learning curve but I think it will work just fine.
- 164 replies
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Small update. The flight deck is on. Normally I wouldn’t do it this early, but so much has to be done at gap filling, etc, I felt I had no choice. Will replace all molded doors/hatches and relocate walkways, etc. While the shims helped some, as one can see there are so many gaps. And, of course and being on par with this piece of crap, the display side is beyond terrible. Plastic sheet will cover areas around elevator/hangar deck - will just have to cut it to shape. Still too much work on something that shouldn’t take this long.
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That is a step. I’ll need to sand it down. One mountain at a time lol
- 164 replies
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Thank you! I was just messing around with it and said why not…the right side only (aft) gets the shims and both sides forward get it. Not perfect, but once I get it all set in it should be just fine! i work on the soldiers in between just to keep me from throwing the ship against the wall…
- 164 replies
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Minor update time. After a bit of head scratching it came to try shims and milliput. I thought about the belt sander idea but far too much of the built-in things would have been removed to get it even. I happened to have some evergreen styrene I-beans and they turned out to be the perfect size to get the deck to sit even. So far, the “shims” have been glued in, as shown in the photos. Still gaps to work with but milliput is super easy to work and shape. Oh, and to keep my sanity, I am also working on 1/35 figures for a diorama, as in this WWII German soldier. Enjoy.
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Thanks for the input! The flight deck of the LPH’s were flat. The hull definitely is the issue, so it looks like sheet styrene and milliput is the way to go. Will have to relocate doors etc to match new height
- 164 replies
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Not sure - I’ll measure when I get home and show pics. All of that will be hidden under the water/waves. I’ve made an at-sea dio before using celluclay - forming/shaping and covering with diluted white glue. Painted/dry brushed and covered with future. Looked pretty good. Tonight I’ll tape down flight deck and start that process. Once it’s built to shape, then I will relocate doors, platforms, etc. i really like that idea you gave me.
- 164 replies
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I removed the pour stubs last night just to see how it sat - fine in the middle and both ends raised off the table…so both ends droop at the top and at the bottom, raised. Almost as if each end shrank. As I said, I’ll make an at sea dio so the bottom parts are covered.
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Now that is an awesome idea! Thank you. Think I should glue the deck at the points it fits and then use that method? I really like that. I’ll also measure the door/platform attachment points/ etc are on hull and then remake them in their proper place. You’ve given me some hope, man
- 164 replies
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Glue: epoxy or gel super glue. Thought I’ll take plasticard, etc, and make what I can. On the sides, I was thinking of making little braces so to speak and then use the plastic sheet to sort of wall it off. Up at the bow where it curves I was thinking of making more braces it whatever and then using miliput and shape it (if I can). Yes I have a compass
- 164 replies
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I think I may just go the shim/fill route. Then measure/relocate any door, etc to their proper place up higher. I think that would be a bit easier, although I can see the bow area giving me a fit
- 164 replies
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Thank you - I may try that. Would the curves and all change shape?
- 164 replies
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Thank you. If I were remove the installed interior fittings, how would you recommend the hot water treatment? That’s one solid - and heavy - piece of resin. i also contacted the manufacturer for advice, even though that kit is out of production.
- 164 replies
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I’ll give that a try. Not sure exactly how to do that one, though, as I built up the interior and primed it. Think that would be easier than shims and milliput?
- 164 replies
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Not sure as there are two fairly large pour stubs on the bottom. I plan on putting it in a little dio like it is underway upside down on the table:
- 164 replies
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So this is what I’m dealing with now. A lot of work ahead - the flight deck is straight but look at those gaps. Looks like I have a few shims to make. Ugh. Ideas??
- 164 replies
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Thanks man. Still some rough areas and I definitely could have done better (I critique my work harder than anyone else), but it’s not bad. The hull is a different story as trying to fit the fight deck to it proved to be no fun at all. A lot of grinding/cutting/shaving/sanding is ahead of me. Not to mention that the sides are not exactly straight. A lot more to go but at least there is light in the tunnel lol
- 164 replies
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Update: paint is on. The island was primed with Mr Surfacer 1500 thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner. Great stuff. White was then used in sort of a black basing method, although the tonal differences aren’t really visible in the pics. Time to set it aside and work on the harder stuff. Thank you for looking.
- 164 replies
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I think the island may be ready for prime and then paint. May weather it a bit, too, and set it aside until final assembly. Thoughts?
- 164 replies
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Minor update: a few more odds and ends added and a few more to go. The mast has been glued in and she’s almost ready for prime, paint, and then set aside. Thanks for looking!
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Another minor update. I decided not to taper the mast - I know, it’s not right… I’m trying my best to get it to match the pic above, as she was in ‘69. Still a lot more to go on mast, but it’s trying there. Not perfect, or even good. I am aware it’s leaning, it’s not glued in yet Thanks for looking!
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