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Everything posted by Spaceman Spiff
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Thanks. I will have to break out the dremel and cut it. That pic is circa ‘68-‘69, not far removed from her maiden cruise. That’s how she appeared when Dad was on her in 69-70
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Appreciate that. Just how do I properly taper a brass rod? Thanks for that image - that’s after multiple refits. Here is the timeframe I’m modeling:
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Another minor update. The scratch-built mast has begun. I took some Evergreen I-beams and split them. Also cut a ring off a pipette and used styrene rod as support. I know, looks like crap. Thoughts?
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Thanks! Have most of those cataloged including images from Dad’s cruise book. It’s not easy to find those from the 69-70 era, as things changed after each retrofit
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Just a minor update on the mast. The first platform is on. The mast is totally from scratch: brass rod, plasticard, and photoetch. It’s difficult to find pictures of the New Orleans’ mast, so I’ve used a few from other ships in its class to piece it together.
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I know, right? My luck would be that as soon as I’m finished they will come out with a good one
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Thanks! It is good to get back to it. I’ve been building planes, etc, off and on. As my skills went up I’m enjoying this more
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Minor updates. All white/gray additions are scratch-built. Added lead wire for conduit. PE is on and I think that the island is almost done - it’s on to the mast which will totally be scratch-built. As crappy as this kit is, it’s the only game in town. Thanks for looking.
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Minor updates again - this kit sat on the shelf of doom since the last post. Hated it because it was pure crap. Still the only game in town so I decided to restart it. i used lead wire for conduit and started adding PE to the island. Still much more to do but here goes. Enjoy. Did I mention it was pure crap???
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Not sure if this is the right place to post this, if not then please move it to where it belongs. I finally started building my Gunboat Philadelphia and when I got to the bottom pieces (23S, 23P, and 24) I found they are of varying thicknesses and not usable. Last week, I contacted Model Expo using the online form (using the link given by a fellow member here) and even attached photos showing said parts. No response of any form. I sent an email to their modelexpo.parts email shown on their website and still no response. I can't move forward with the ship until I source the parts. Anyone have any other ideas? Or am I out of line posting here given no response or acknowledgement? Thanks for time and consideration. If my post is out of line, please delete it.
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Future floor polish (the acrylic kind) is the best. Can be brushed or airbrushed. It levels very well and provides an excellent base and reduces silvering. Also a great setter, too. Once is dry, it can take any covering.
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Great job! I thought about this kit, too. However, that engine and all the other white-metal pieces looks almost toy-like and having no life. Even if you are going for an unpainted look, every metal used wasn't the same exact color all the way through - the gun metal most certainly wasn't the same as used in engine as used in cowlings, etc. Paint/wash/drybrush/etc to bring things to life. I mean, why paint the engine mount (looks to be almost a WWII era interior green color - was that how the originals were painted or just something different?) and not the guns, engine, struts, etc.? Would really bring things to life and make it look like a real plane but without its skin. Great job on all accounts! I love it and don't mean to sound harsh...
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Hello from Virginia Beach, VA
Spaceman Spiff replied to ftnemtst's topic in New member Introductions
Jake's is awesome. I think I could just make a meal of those sweet corn nuggets! Good stuff. What part are you in? -
Hello from Virginia Beach, VA
Spaceman Spiff replied to ftnemtst's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome! Did two tours at Norfolk. I need to get back to Jake's BBQ! A lot of great people on this board. Welcome, again! -
I mainly spray enamels with my Iwata but have used acrylics. I prefer to run 91% alcohol through my airbrush as this is great at getting acrylic out - especially the stubborn stuff. I have also heard that Windex works great, too. Now, enamels are a whole different beast. I run lacquer thinner through it when I am cleaning the airbrush. My Iwata only has a few parts so it takes like five minutes to disassemble, clean thoroughly, and reassemble. Pipe cleaners work great. It is also a good idea to use some oil made specifically for airbrushes on some of the parts. I know what some of you are thinking - won't that get into the paint the next time you use it? Maybe, but before I start painting I will always spray paint thinner through it just in case. Never had a problem. Never have sprayed oils, but I awlays use Humbrol's Satin Cote - which is a solvent-based varnish and thin it with lacquer thinner. Never a problem. It is my go-to for final coat on my models (never have built a wooden one). Now, for traditional varnishes - I have never tried it but know someone who sprays them using lacquer thinner and who says he never has a problem with it in his airbrush. I have never seen it used so I can't comment. Take it for what it's worth.
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Be sure to post some pics! As far as airbrushes go, there is a wide-range of makes and models, from single action to double action. From what I have seen, Badger and Iwata are some of the best. But of course, you get what you pay for. My personal setup is an Iwata HP BCR dual-action airbrush (dual action airbrushes make it much easier to do fine painting and detail work) and a Craftsman compressor. If you go the compressor route, get one that has an adjustable regulator that allows you use different pressures (this is very important for detail work). Practice, practice, practice!
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