Spaceman Spiff

I have this same kit and am following this and others intently. I may be wrong, but didn't someone do an entire "practicum" free of charge on this? Edit: I think this is the one I heard about... http://www.modelboatyard.com/avs_articles.html

Thank you all for the kind words. Tonight I should finish putting the doors on the island and will start adding the various odds and ends (made out of styrene sheets and rods) to liven things up a bit. Then it is on to the hangar bay for the next round of insanity...

Here is a little more. The flight deck is a replacement - the original was warped sideways and couldn't be fixed, so they sent me a new one. This is a great company and will sent replacement parts free of charge without any questions asked. Can't beat that! The kit included a complete set of PE, so it looks like I will be having some fun... They also sent a complete back dated air wing of all aircraft that were on her during the 1969 time frame. Hope you all enjoy the pictures and I will continue to post progress when my two little ones give me time!

Here are some more parts. The first picture shows the gun turrets in cream colored resin. During the timeframe I am modeling, she didn't have the modern systems as in the sea sparrows and phalanx system. I contacted Iron Shipwrights and the supplied all of the necessary parts to backdate her for free of charge (yes, FREE!). Also, the green parts are to be put in the hangar deck as part of the sides. One is pretty poorly cast so I will be remaking it in styrene. I know what everyone is thinking - with the flight deck on, not a lot will be visible through the elevator doors, but I just can't help it... The second picture shows a bunch of miscellaneous parts. However, these aren't numbered and the instructions, well, leave a little to be desired...

Here are the parts to the ship, as requested. Hull: The detail is pretty good and for the most part I am pleased with it. I will add some extra bits because I just can't leave well enough alone! Thanks to Dad's cruise book for the extra pictures. Looking at the bottom of the hull, the pour stubs are huge and I really, really hate sanding/shaping resin - so, in this case I will put it in a base with water effects to appear as under way. That way, I don't have to do a lot of extra work and deal with the poor prop and rudder.

Thanks guys. Cap, I have an Iwata airbush for the painting. Yes, he is doing well - I am trying to get him into shipbuilding because I consider him to be a master woodworker (if I could only be half as good...), maybe one day! Craig, that is pretty much how I do it, too. However, in this case I will attach the island to the deck before painting because the fit isn't quite the best and I will have to use some filler. Oops, this is in the Q&A section as was kindly pointed out...who do I ask to move it? Thanks!

I looked for a long time to try to find a 1/350 scale model of my Dad's carrier, the New Orleans. The only kit in this scale, or really any scale, of the LPH-type carriers, was this one by Iron Shipwright's. As much as I hate working with resin, this was the only game in town. The original kit was made as LPH-9, the U.S.S. Guam and made as it was retrofitted to the 1985 time frame. Dad served on the New Orleans during 1969 - 1970, so a good bit of backdating is in order. I apologize to those who I told I was going to start a build log on this, but with two young kids my modeling time is sorely limited. After moving at the pace of a directionally challenged snail, the island is starting to come along fairly nicely. Please excuse the fact that I don't have any pictures of the parts before starting, but I was a little absent-minded! So anyway, here goes! The kit, in some areas, is very well detailed - but in others, it really needs some work. Starting with the island, I purchased a set of PE doors from White Ensign (who happens to make excellent PE items). The molded resin doors are some of the things that need re-working. Although some may say otherwise, my AMS (advanced modeler syndrome, or to put it in terms - having to update everything to make it as accurate as possible) just won't let me leave well enough alone. Going from pictures of the ship from the 1969 time frame, I am also reworking the island. It is difficult to see in the photos, the walks have been extended using white sheet styrene. I also had to replace the back wall of the island with styrene due to poor forming of the kit items. As you can see from the photos, some of the doors have been replaced and also all walks have been rebuilt. Also noticeable is the use of Mr. Surfacer (500) and Tamiya putty to help with corrections. Please excuse the quality of my pictures - I make no claim to be a photographer! Updates will be posted as soon as I can, which at my current pace... Thanks, Eric

I never have used one of those tools - there are times I wish I had! However, I just use razor blade and one of those 6" metal rulers. Honestly, this combination has worked well enough that I couldn't justify the cost. For the round/circular items, I just find an item the approximate size and wrap the PE around it. Call me cheap, I guess!

Interesting tips. I will be following this as a reference for when I start my first wooden ship. Hopefully my mistakes will be correctable!

I second the airbrush/model paint for cannons, etc. Depending on the look, age, etc., that you want to portray, it is actually very easy to do. For example, when I do guns (not ship cannons, but individual arms), I use black and then dry brush with either aluminum or silver - or maybe another color, depending on the look I am going for. The trick to dry brushing is using a paper towel to remove as much paint as possible from the brush. Practice makes perfect! I find this method works very well, but there are so many different techniques - just ifnd one that you are comfortable with and go from there!

That is some seriously good work, Kevin! I am following this one closely. It looks to be a very big model - what are it's dimensions?

Here is one of my models using the dot filter method of putting dots of oil paints and then using a mineral spirits soaked brush to "pull" or "wipe" the paint - each time in the same direction. Although kind of hard to see in the picture, the darker streaks and stains were made using this method. The tank was painted in a desert sand color, coated with Future (acrylic floor stuff), and then the filter method - brown if I recall correctly. Once the Future dries, the mineral spirits has no effect on it. It is an excellent method for weathering - streaks, stains, etc. Harder to see on the tools and cable, the rust color comes from orangish colored pastels mixed with water. Sorry about the size of the pic, but I haven't quite got the sizing down... My photo skills leave a little to be desired...

As of now, I use Model Master paints - I am currently working on a resin (with a ton of photo-etch added) 1/350 LPH-11 U.S.S. New Orleans which was my Dad's carrier. I have never used acrylics outside of the Valejo for figures - except for using a few colors (blacks, browns,etc.) for washes, and maybe Tamiya's clear blue over jet exhaust...other than that, I only really use enamels. I have also used oils/mineral spirits as a means of weathering - I can't remember the "official" name of this method (filtering, maybe?), but it consists of putting dots of oil paints on the model and using a mineral spirits wet brush to streak the oil paint, which works very well and is very simple to use. If I can find a few pics I will put them up for you. I have yet to start a wooden ship, but have one waiting after I finish this. Well, that and a couple of snap-tite kits I will be doing with my four year old son. Thanks, Eric

Wow, I bet the Mo will be a pretty penny! The Yorktown kit sure does have a lot of stuff! but I have the syndrome otherwise known as super detailing syndrome (made that up! can't wait to dig into it!

Beautiful work, sir. I love the weathering you did - the deck looks like the ones you see in old photos. Truly amazing work! Funny, I just watched Toko Ri this past week. Great movie! Couldn't tell from the pics if a miniature Mickey Rooney and his green scarf was on deck... Your rendition of water is excellent! Looks easy to use - I may use it on my current project. Will have to give Dragon kits a shot - have never built 1/700, though. Opened my Yorktown last night, man what a bunch of plastic! I haven't built those old Revell kits in a long time - sometimes it's nice to return to the roots...

Great build - it looks great and love how you weathered the deck! I prefer ships, etc., as they appear in operational status and not factory fresh. How did you do the water? The only time I made water, I used Celluclay and formed it around the ship. With proper painting, I think it turned out OK. I have never built any Dragon kits with the exception of armor - how are their ship models? I only have a couple of plastic ships to build. Right now I am just starting on an all-resin LPH-11 U.S.S. New Orleans as a gift for my Dad, as he served on her during 1969 - 1970. There has never been a plastic model of the Iwo Jima class LPH's, but my with my luck someone would come out with one as soon as I finish this one!

I haven't seen one of those in years! I got a chance to pick up Trumpeter's 1/350 Yorktown (CV-10) which included several sheets of PE for a great deal...It looks to be an awesome build that will probably get to in a few years. Too many things waiting on deck! Found this on ebay for a great price - like $50 U.S. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trumpeter-1-350-Kit-5608-USS-Lexington-CV-2-Aircraft-Carrier-1942-/370936048210?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item565d82ea52#ht_166wt_937 Worth a look if you want to build the Lexington in 1/350...

Hey Kimberly, are those Valejo paints you are using? I ask because the bottles look the same. I have only used them on figures - great stuff!

Wow! Great work! I have been building plastic models for the better part of 20 years - aircraft, armor, and a couple of ships. I must say, that yours looks awesome! I haven't done a Revell ship since the old Constitution way back when. Keep up the good work - all of the problems are just lessons, although I don't see any mistakes in yours! Great job!

That's awesome that they could identify that! My question is how they can identify a shipwreck if the ship has deteriorated and nothing discernible remains?

It's the same as the Tamiya, with the exception of thier (Tamiya's) weathering sticks - meaning they don't have glue and you don't need glue unless going for a specific look. As a build up of dust, soot (from guns, etc.), or dirt I just put the pastels on with a brush. When I do armor kits, I mix the pastels in with white glue to replicate mud. Rust can be very easily copied with pastels - I get the proper color and mix it with a bit of water and use a brush (the smaller, the better) and apply it that way. Sometimes mulitple applications are needed, but it works great. I will try to post a pic of my Tiger tank later if I can remember. Of course, if you don't seal it, then be careful of how you touch it - and as we all know, sealing changes the color and original look. That's why I apply it last most times.

Oh yeah, those work great. Also, you can get "pastel" chalks from any store (Micheal's, etc.) in a multitude of colors for much cheaper than the Tamiya powders what work just the same. Just use some sandpaper to grind some up and apply with a brush, q-tip, or whatever. All good stuff!

It's not a bad place, Q A's Revenge. I like the pecan encrusted salmon..but we don't eat there too often. As I said before, it isn't too bad as far as restaurants go, but they get most of their business from tourists.

Interesting. Blackbeard was known to frequent my town of Savannah - in fact, one of the buildings (taverns) he "visited" is still standing and today is known as the Pirate's House - it is the oldest building in Savannah. Something little known: Blackbeard died in the Pirate's House. As far as food goes, it is an average place but has a very interesting history. In one corner, there is a hole leading to a tunnel that runs to the Savannah River. In those times, it was used by pirates to shanghai drunken sailors and have them serve on their ship. Interesting indeed. The discovery leads to me to ask this question: Just how are they able to identify a certain shipwreck? Like Blackbeard's for instance - unless there is a name that is readable, how can they positively say it was his ship? Of course, some will say records indicate a ship sank...or whatever. But, to me, that still wouldn't give absolute proof. Is there any way to positively identify a wreck that has deteriorated well beyond recognition? Thanks!

You are doing excellent work! Am very impressed! Two things: First, omitting something that was actually on the ship for fear of hurting someone's feelings is, for lack of better words, is utterly ridiculous. If someone complains or is "insulted" or offended by such, then its their fault for clicking on the link in the first place. After all, the Bismark is a famous ship... Ok, enough ranting! It's just that things are getting out of hand a little. Second, if you are having a hard time finding PE for your model, why not scratch some stuff out of styrene? Evergreen makes a lot of different types - rod, tube, I-beam, etc. - and sheets in different sizes, thickness, etc. That's what I am having do for my Dad's carrier. Your work is incredible and please don't remove because some may have thin skin!