Lecrenb
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For some strange reason I keep holding off on the boat davits... probably because I know I will knock them off the model more than once unless they are last to go on! With that in mind I made the life rings next, St. Roch mounted four around her deck house. I started with plastic rings from New Cap Maquettes. They are the right size and cross section, but they come with plastic lines molded on around the ring. These were the first things I cut off, resulting in the picture below: Next I trimmed up the molded seam lines, and painted the rope rings black. Then I used my miniature drill to make holes through the rope rings, and began stringing hemp lines around the perimeters. Here are the four rings complete and looking much better than when I started... Again I used 'No Sew' at each rope ring to hold the line. It dries clear and flexible, and will allow me to make minor adjustments to the ropes once it has set up. Next I need to add the name decal to each life ring, and make the brackets that mount on the ship to hold the rings...
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And here they are done, didn't take much time at all. The first picture shows the shaped rails off the ship for painting. I never try painting anything so fussy on the ship where the paint will get everywhere it shouldn't! After painting they popped right back into their holes... Et Voila! Done! Getting into the last of the hull details now. Davits and life rings to come, then lastly the decals! I'm starting the masts by marking the various locations for the bands and other fittings... stay tuned for more fun and games! Regards, Bruce
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Nice idea Keith, I will consider it for next time. Usually I run the railings by the airbrush, but there weren't that many so I brushed it on...
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In between fussing with davit blocks I made good progress on the poop deck railings... The port rail is painted and installed, the starboard and stern rails so the CA can set up and fix the assembly. Then they will come off the ship for painting... Lots of fun! Thanks for looking in! Bruce
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Progress on the boat covers... the No Sew worked a treat, and bonded the 'darn cat ears' very well to the cover... I moved on to drill the grommet holes, and like David Antscherl said the holes drill cleanly in the painted silkspan. I used a tapered cocktail toothpick dipped in Tamiya XF-18 Semi-gloss Black to paint the grommets. Just dip the pointy end into the paint then into the grommet hole, it leaves a neat painted circle. After that I prepared the motorboat by gluing a spar bow to stern to 'tent' the cover like the original, and also glued the gripes in place. The picture shows the boat and cover to this point. Next I centered the cover over the boat and used a water soaked paint brush to wet it, enough to start getting a tent shape and fold around the edges, and the 'darn cat ears' stayed on, Yay! I left it at this point to dry, I will give it another wetting before lashing the cover to the boat. First I have to lash the triple blocks to the eyebolts in the boat, these will be the lower part of the falls. Almost made a mistake when I forgot to make sure the 'darn cat ears' would not interfere with the gripes, but fortunately there were no conflicts! So far so good, so I made a start on the dinghy. Since it is done the same as the motorboat I won't repeat the details in this log. Next time you see the boats they should be in their chocks with everything lashed down!
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Thanks Bill, your boat cover looks great! nice idea about gluing a strip around the edge, I'm hoping mine fold over when wetted without the triangular pieces falling off! Regards, Bruce
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After some back and forth with the airbrush I am happy with this shade for the boat covers... the picture shows the paper template, the cover pieces cut from the silkspan, and the 20' motorboat... The triangular pieces are the tie downs (not sure if they have a nautical name or not?) They are just set in place to see how things look. David Antscherl recommends Matte Medium for gluing silkspan pieces together. I have lots of 'No Sew' on hand so I'm giving that a try. I have used it before with great success gluing flags to halliards and anything else involving fabrics. It dries clear and flexible, and once set up it can be washed, so it is waterproof. Here is the motorboat cover assembled, waiting for the No Sew to dry. We'll see how it holds together when I wet the cover to fit the boat, and when I lash it down... I'm going to give it a day and maybe a second application from the back side... delving into uncharted territory here!
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Our cruise was with Viking, Paris to Rouen and back including Giverny, the Bayeux Tapestry and Juno Beach. We arranged a private guided tour of the cathedral and absorbed a lot of knowledge about gothic architecture and the history of the building. The lines moved fairly quickly... Unfortunately we did not have time to visit La Musee de la Marine... or Honfleur... next time!
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Hi Wefalck... we enjoyed our cruise on the Seine, and the restored Notre Dame is amazing! I agree about the colour choice and I will shoot a thin coat of flat white onto my boat covers. Pictures I have show St. Roch's boat covers sometimes light, sometimes darker... could be the lighting or camera settings with black & white film... Yes, her sails today are reproductions, but originally they were cotton canvas. I'm also thinking about a light gray, off-white, for the sails and we'll see how they turn out! I appreciate your feedback, Bruce
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I'm back, and well rested! So back to the silkspan... I decided to first work with an offcut to make the boat covers. This leaves the main piece of silkspan for the sails, and if I mess up the offcut I can still make the sails (I hope)! I had previously (on page 8 of this build log) made the frame to hold the silkspan. Now I wetted the offcut and taped it onto the frame, per David Antscherl's directions. I deviated by using medical adhesive tape since I could not get the paper packing tape in Beaumont. It is waterproof and seems to work very well. Taping two sides vs. all four did not seem to matter on a piece this size. Here is the wet silkspan drying on the frame. Next I coloured the silkspan to match what I think the boat cover canvas would have looked like. Rather than the artist's tube paints recommended by David I chose to use my Tamiya acrylics. Buying tube paints would leave me enough left over that I could will them to my heirs! The Tamiya paints are water based and give me a broader range of colours, and would go on with my airbrush, which I considered a better technique than brushing. I used a base of flat white, and added a drop of buff and another of dark sea gray. My airbrush cup was about half full, so I topped it with Tamiya thinner and sprayed it onto the silkspan. Here it is in the spray booth. I laid down two coats, light enough that there were no runs. When I moved he frame to my bench I saw that the colour was more gray than I would have liked. Memo to self, better lighting at the paint booth! Here it is drying on the bench with the boat cover templates laid on top. After it dries, if I am still not satisfied, I'll shoot another coat of diluted buff to try and get more of a canvas colour... we'll see. Next will be to cut out and assemble the covers, then try to get them to fold nicely over the boats... Thanks for looking in, tips and critiques are always welcome!
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Santa arrived a couple of days ago, with assorted cargo for the hold! I was going to leave the hold empty to show the strong ice beams built into St. Roch, but once I decided to add a sailor unloading cargo I knew I had to have some cargo for him to work with! What arrived from Berkshire Valley (a model RR accessory company) was assorted sacks, crates, and barrels, all molded in O gauge, which is 1:48. There was just a bit of flash to clean off, then the parts, like anything coming from a mold, were rinsed thoroughly in warm soapy water to remove the mold release. Here is what they looked like: The resin parts after painting... And the cast metal sacks... the sailor has been glued to the plank he will be pushing his cargo along, in a sling suspended from the cargo derrick (one day soon!). Here is the cargo down the hold. The hatch cover canvas and boards are fixed onto the main deck, and the sailor is posed to push a sling of sacks... The details of the hold, and the ice beams, can still be seen. St. Roch shipped 150 tons of cargo for the various RCMP detachments she served, all had to be handled manually. If anyone asks me, she is at the far Eastern end of her supply run, thus almost empty! I want to thank all the forum members who gave me thoughts and ideas about the cargo scene! Regards, Bruce
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I used my Ausfwerks Fenderbender (so named because at 7 inches long it can bend the fenders on armored fighting vehicle models in one operation) to form the gripes for the boats. This is a true miniature brake and the best engineered product I have seen. Unfortunately it is no longer in production. I am not going to be able to make the boat covers before I go away for a bit, so here are the boats in their cradles, with the gripes inside, waiting for me to get back to them! The poop deck gets even more crowded after the new superstructure is added in 1944, but for now the spare rudder can still fit along or under one of the boats! Thanks for looking in!
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A rainy morning here in Alberta, so a good time to get some work done on St. Roch's boats... First I needed to carve back the stern of the motorboat. The first picture is St. Roch's motorboat showing the rudder and prop; this is what I am trying to emulate with the second picture... Then it was off to the paint booth... After the paint dried it was time to reeve the lifelines around each boat. I made eye splices at the end of each line... Here are the boats with the line and glue I used, ready for the final line splicing once the glue dries. I used 'No Sew' fabric glue to tack the lines into position... this dries clear and flexible, and will hold the lines in the proper shape while I make the final splices. Next I am going to make a start with the silkspan sails, and make the boat gripes and covers. Then the davits should complete the hull work on the ship except for putting some cargo in the hold. It will be very exciting to put the hull aside and start finishing the masts!
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Thanks for the link Wefalck, I read it with interest! It seems the three methods I have come across so far are very similar, so I will proceed with reference to all three and hopefully everything will come out looking good!
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Thanks very much Dr! I followed your link with interest, and followed on through your trials and tribulations with rigging your schooner. I must say Well Done Sir! After reading your link I have decided that airbrushing my acrylics onto the silkspan should give suitable results, so I will try that and see how things progress. I will also tape the silkspan to the frame then shoot water onto it, should help to avoid tearing! Regards, Bruce
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Thanks Wefalck! I have heard the restoration paper referred to as Japanese tissue, and seen it used on the tv show "The Repair Shop". I was going to try it until my friend gave me some silkspan. Looking forward to Paris on the 16th!
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Very nice and frame worthy Alan!
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I also got the boat cradles complete, now they are waiting for their boats... I now fussed around with the spare rudder, and found two ways in which it could in fact be stowed aft... The rudder is presently stowed on St. Roch's main deck, from where it would be tremendously difficult to get it aft, past the full breadth superstructure, if it was ever needed. The larger superstructure would also preclude the rudder from being stowed aft. I also don't believe the mizzen mast that was installed in 1944 had the geometry or capacity to replace the rudder if needed, unlike the previous main sail boom. I wasn't sure if there would be room after my 1930 deckhouse was built, but pictures do not show it on the main deck, so where else would it go? The next pictures give a couple of options: I think the last picture is the best guess, since the rudder would not interfere with the boat lashings. I intend to send my pics off to the Vancouver museum and ask their opinion... wish me luck!
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I have never made sails for models before, so the old dog will try to learn another new trick, mentored by David Antscherl and his Appendix to his Sphinx series of books. Thanks you very much in advance David! Silkspan is proving very hard to come by, so I can't say enough good things about people in the modelling fraternity who open themselves and their stashes to help those in need! Needless to say, like my sailor figure, I was saved by a fellow modeller who kindly donated enough Silkspan for my St. Roch... there may even be scraps left over for lifeboat covers! My sails will be furled, to hide my inevitable mistakes as much as giving a clear view of the decks, therefore I reduced the height of each sail about 30%, to allow for scale thickness of the material! The first picture shows the paper templates I made, sitting on the Silkspan. This lets me size the required sail-making frame... I marked the foot of each sail and oriented them in the same plane, so when it is time to mark the cloths that make up each sail it should be a matter of drawing the lines in parallel across the entire sheet. I hope! I found a suitable sized piece of plywood in my garage scrap lumber stash, and using measurements taken from the templates and allowing for the required overlap of the Silkspan onto the wood, I marked out the hole to cut, creating the frame and insert in one operation. A clearance hole and one pass with my scroll saw was all it took, then a bit of finishing with my palm sander. The cut is not perfectly square because the scroll saw throat is a bit smaller than the length of cut! The insert will support the Silkspan while it is being worked on, and the frame will hold it taut. Here is the frame checking for size on my templates. I flipped over the foresail template which reduces the amount of Silkspan needed. Next step is to start painting and tinting the Silkspan to look like canvas... David recommends mixing and thinning artists' tube acrylics, but this is expensive and will be almost all left over, so I am going to try my Tamiya acrylics on an offcut piece... my experience is that the paint will remain flexible after drying, so fingers crossed! If anyone has tried this I would love to know how it turned out! Thanks for looking in!
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Thank you very much Steve, and Alan too! That means a lot... perhaps the old dog can learn a new trick! Regards, Bruce
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