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BrianK

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About BrianK

  • Birthday 08/25/1964

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Jacksonville. Florida, USA
  • Interests
    Model ships for HO scale model railroading using mid 19th century to early 20th century sail and steam ships in the scale range from approximately 1/75 to 1/110 scales, with modifications as necessary. I don't count rivets but I do strive to maintain historical plausibility.... =)

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  1. I will be selling part of my collection of model ship kits at Modelpalooza in Orlando Florida on October 12-13, 2024. I won't be there Friday the 11th (its a 3-day event), and hopefully they won't cancel because of the hurricane. https://www.ipmsorlando.org/modelpalooza-home.html Come by tables 24 and 25 in the vendor area. I am downsizing my private collection before I retire and move. I should have about 30 ship kits priced to sell, some old, some new, some rare, some wood, some plastic: Sterling, MSW, Marine Model Company, Scientific, Revell, Lindberg, Pyro, Artesania Latinas, and Constructo. Hope to see you there! Brian
  2. Life sidetracked me. I had to go overseas for a few months. I hope to restart this project later this fall...... Sorry for the terribly delayed response Chris. Brian
  3. Working on the aft hull sections. Tried two techniques but in the end the one that seems to work, at least for me, is to get the bulkheads glued to the hull at one point. Next let them dry so they are firmly attached. Then apply glue on small arcs of the hull wrapper, starting near the attached bulkhead, and align the bulkhead with the wrapper by hand. Let that dry for 10 minutes and, working gently, do another small arc. To help seal up the seam I use bench weights to apply pressure, after sticking my pinkie in the bulkhead holes to apply some back pressure to the seam. so it is flat and straight.
  4. Rshoker, I like your conversion idea. I have a color laser printer. I can scan the bow section and import it into CorelDRAW where I can try to add the 12 Tomahawk hatch panel lines. I think it will be tricky since I suspect the hatch lines will be curved on a 2D layout of the hull section. CorelDraw has some Illustrator-style distortion tools that may save me. I can also practice print and shape a few until it looks right then put the 110 pound paper in the laser printer to print the cardstock version......
  5. After I started to wrap the other side of the hull on the long main section I became concerned about the fragility of the foot long tube being supported by only end bulkheads. So I used some chipboard to make extra bulkheads. I had a matching bulkhead available to use as a template from one of the other sections. Then I started closing up the hull, continuing to slowly glue in small arcs and reassess. Then finally I was able to close up the hull. It took a couple rounds of glue application to get the seam edge to adhere. I used a weighted cutting matt to get even pressure on the side opposite the seam and that finally did the trick without crushing the hull. There are a few dimples and creases but it came out ok. I can see every blemish. 😃 The added bulkheads really did help. I know what the bulkhead holes are for now. Your pinkie fits in just fine to push out little dimples in the hull. 😃 Aft end. Moving on to the smaller (hopefully easier) hull sections..... I have a busy week ahead at work. In the evenings we are interviewing candidates to fill an open engineering faculty position so it may be slow going with updates for a bit.
  6. The bulkheads are glued on one side of the hull of the main section. After the other side, there are 7 more sections. The good news is the other sections are all much shorter......
  7. Hello Brian,

    I responded to your question in my post.

     

    20240128_091349.thumb.jpg.0e4a7c73b8e65c1d9a51bbfae0421e4c.jpg

    I hope this helps!

  8. Thanks Chris. I am nervous about it. Trying to take baby steps and keep the bulkheads square. I think patience may be the most needed skill. 😃 Here is one more baby step. I glue up about a 30 degree arc of the tube and walk away for an hour...... Temporary jigs definitely help. I am using some scale weights and steel bench blocks as anchors to tape the section too. Gluing on the inside of the seam and relying on capillary action to seal the joint. Not sure that is the best way but it seems to hold. Using Lineco neutral pH PVA glue.
  9. BTW Richard, after all my hand-ringing about the bulkhead marks, I cut out a few hull sections and test fit them only to then realize the hull deck and side paint lines are going to make excellent registration marks for bringing the sections together..... Brian
  10. Initial glue ups of the first couple of bulkheads. This step just gets the bulkhead attached to the section hulls at one point. Wrapping is the next step. The small section is the first section aft of the main straight section. I will raise the tapered end of the small sections a few millimeters (1/2 the difference in bulkhead diameters for the section) before trying to wrap and glue the hull all the way around. That should keep the bulk heads perpendicular to the axis of the boat during wrapping. I will try to show that in the next set of photos.
  11. Bill, they look great. Can I ask which lathe you are using? It looks like a Proxxon. Brian
  12. Great idea Richard. Just transfer the marks. Might as well go all the way onto the chipboard side. I have a little square somewhere..... Brian
  13. Bulkheads are done. The 1mm thick chipboard backing was not too terrible to cut with the angle craft scissors. I used a knife for the little bulkheads. A chisel knife cutting little tangents as I worked around the curves of the small pieces seemed to produce ok results. I used some 220 grit sand paper and an emery board to smooth the bulkheads. They will not be visible so I only worried about the edges and deburring the flats where two bulkheads will meet. I was originally planning to glue the chipboard sides of the bulkheads to each other when bringing hull sections together. However, the four cardinal registration marks on the card model side might be useful. I am not sure I trust the craft adhesive though. It should be permanent the way I applied it. The card model cut outs seem well attached to the chipboard. Any thoughts?
  14. "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum to place it on and I'll move the world."........ or a 1/200 scale paper model 😃
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