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About wtimlen

  • Birthday 02/22/1965

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    Northport, New York

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  1. Hello Folks, After several weeks I made progress on the hull of Revenue Cutter: I applied the final primer coat (Grey Tamiya Spray) I applied Testors Enamel Flat Black spray paint, I really like this paint. I am usually a Tamiya & Vallejo person. I also applied several coats of Tamiya Flat Clear to protect the finish, I learned this on my Yankee Hero Build. I then penciled out the waterline, I was concerned over using a pencil on the black hull, however it was a piece of cake. I could clearly see the waterline. The plans do a nice job at helping to determine where to locate the waterline on the hull. I needed to do the waterline on the only real level place in the house with a lot of natural light. Used my level to ensure the waterline was fair on both sides. Then it was on to the masking, I used something new; Tamiya flexible masking tape. It worked great, I was almost able to mask the entire side of the hull with one piece of tape. I used regular masking tape to mask above the waterline. I then applied a coat of Model Master Flat Black on the edge of the tape to create a seal to prevent the copper paint from going under the tape. I found the adhesion of the Tamiya tape to be on the light side, so I took the additional step that I learned from Blue Jacket. It hasn't failed me yet. I then sprayed the bottom of the hull with Model Master Enamel Copper with my Iwata Neo Airbrush. I am learning to get better with the airbrush, cleaning it is a drag however the results are well worth it I believe. I then unmasked it carefully. I am looking forward to copper plating the hull, I think the copper undercoat will hide whatever gaps I encounter on that journey. I am somewhat intimidated of plating the hull, especially because I do not have the steadiest of hands. I will give it a shot, I followed sjanicki's build to help along, as well as the links he posted in his awesome Revenue Cutter build. That's it folks for this post, onto reading about plating and checking some other builds with plating. I hope everyone out there in MSW world is doing well.
  2. Hello Folks, It's been a while from my last post, I primed, puttied and sanded the hull 3 times. The first priming was pretty painful, the second better and the third a charm. Pretty monotonous work for three times however corrected a lot wrongs along the way sandpaper grit used #400, #800, #1500, #2000, #3000. Also I have completed painting several parts, prepared the transom and painted the rudder. Next Steps: Re-mask the deck again, the tape edges lost their edge during all the priming, sanding. Final Priming Affix the transom to the hull. Drill the holes for the for the channels and glue them in place. Paint the hull flat black with Model Master Flat Black Establish the waterline I will post again once I get though the above, enjoy the holiday weekend everyone! Bill T.
  3. No, it is always clean. Regarding the toe rail, same thing happened to me. I applied the toe rail fore to aft, and I just made a small piece of triangle basswood at the stern. I noted it in my build. It was a simple fix, barely noticeable. Good Luck, Bill T.
  4. Hello Mike, A trick I learned from BlueJacket that work great for me is to apply a few coats of Flat Clear over tape edge of line you are painting. This will create a seal between the tape and the hull. It works flawlessly for me, I rarely have paint leak under the tape. It is an extra step however for me well worth it. Good Luck. Bill T.
  5. Hello Nic, I appreciate the time you took to respond. I will hopefully see you shortly (you know what I mean!) Thank you, Bill T.
  6. Hello Folks, I have a short post for the Revenue Cutter: As usual I strayed away from the kit manual, as stated in the past I will never win any awards for accuracy. I trashed my Blue Jacket wales by splitting them, so I hit my basswood wood shed (Model Shipways Niagara Kit abandoned 10 years ago). Pulled out two strips of 1/16 by 3/16 strips for the wales. In addition, I busted out my never used before Micro Mark plank benders (steam based benders) for the wales to bend for the bow portion. I was very happy with the results (see below), also it added I believe a more prominent set of wales for detail purposes. The small gap between the hull and the wales at the bow portion will be addressed when affixing the toe rails to the hull, no worries there. I then stained the top portion of the wales once affixed to the hull to match the deck color. After that I did my usual, added thinned down Finishing Resin to the wales to prevent denting and splitting. Next steps: The punishing first coat of priming to find the dents. Filling dents with putty, sanding for two/three runs until I get it right. Finally painting with Model Master Enamel Paints supplied with the kit. I need to look up the paint to thinner ratio for airbrushing for Model Master Enamels as I am usually a Acrylic Paint fan. I am thinking probably a 2/1 or 3/1 ratio, I am a rookie at Enamels with airbrushing. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you all, Bill T.
  7. I wish I had a nickels for how many times I did that to my builds, I busted my door too (LOL) on the Yankee Hero. With all the fine work you have done to date it will be lost in the finished build I believe. The stand looks great, I added felt from Michaels too lessen scratches on the hull once painted. Also, I forgot I applied 2 coats of Tamiya flat clear spray onto the hull to prevent chips later on the build. Also I used Acrylics (Tamiya) versus enamels, enamels I read have better adhesive characteristics. I am trying enamels on my current build Revenue Cutter (Model Master) shortly, I will learn as we all do moving forward. Bill T.
  8. I use ZAP for my finishing resin because it is readily available, however there are others available that work just as well. Make sure you thin it with denatured alcohol. Mix the 50% Hardener and 50% Resin, once you have that mixed then mix it 50% Resin mixture and 50% Denatured Alcohol (Use a "Solo" cup, it doesn't melt). Also when mixing the denatured alcohol the mixture should fog up, don't worry about that it will subside as you continue to mix. Remember, one coat the penetrate the wood (let dry completely) and another to fill in small imperfections. Than I prime and sand down, look at my build post (Yankee Hero) for specifics. I hope this helps! Onto my Revenue Cutter! Bill T.
  9. Also on the stand I added felt to where the hull meets the stand to prevent scratching the hull after painting.
  10. Hey Michael, Don't sweat the rigging, make sure you use the correct diameter thread (unlike I did) for each step. To facilitate my rigging I take a lot of time to make sure my blocks are set to my spars and mast prior to affixing them to the boat. Also make sure the holes in the blocks are 100 clear (nothing worse than clearing block holes when already affixed to the boat), I run the ends of my lines through some thin CA to produce a needle affect, I also cut the end on angle so it is a little sharp. The other step a take is I do not secure knots on my Running Rigging with CA until all rigging is complete to make sure all appropriate line are proper tightness. Also as noted above, I always set my standing rigging first witch is only 2 lines. Check out Blue Jacket, they offer a rigging class that I have attended twice, worth every penny and pretty fun as well! Hopefully they will have another class once it is safe to do so.
  11. Hello MichaelW, A little pricy, however top notch quality. I find I get what a pay for, the belt sanders already has saved me hours of sanding. Especially since I take an extra step to harden the wood with thinned finish resin to prevent dents from occurring once painted. The Proxxon tool I use the most is the Pensander (PS 13), it is fantastic. If you decide to get the Pensander I recommend you order additional sanding pads. Good luck, your build is coming along well. Bill T.
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