rtropp

Time for another update and on to the next chapter (finally)
 
After marking off the deck, I started work on the swivel brackets.  I am a little nervous because when I did the decks I had a few mistakes that might now rear their heads. We'll see.
 
the swivel brackets from a distance. (I really don't want to look at them close :-) )
 

 
Next came the pin rails. I am going to wait until later to install these.
 
I started by cutting out the rails.  The straight rails were pretty easy to cut and shape.  For the curved rails near the bow, i first shaped the outboard edge that would be glued.  I then used a compass opened to 1/8 inch to trace the curve on the opposite side.
 
this picture gives the idea only this first one was done backwards, first the inboard side than the outboard. When I figured out the mistake I changed the sequence for the remaining ones to shape the outboard side first to make sure it fit the curve than the inside one to match.

 
These are the pin rails cut and shaped. I will do any fine tuning during installation.

 
Then using the mill, I created two holes in each to install wires to support the glue up. 
 

 
 
Now comes the fun (insanity??)
 
I decided to try to make the belaying pins myself.  As with the figure head, while it might not be as sharp as the supplied one it would be home made and a skill that I could use for scratch building.  I figured what the heck, if it doesn't work out I could always use the brass ones supplied.
 
First my setup

 
I used a short strip of boxwood, first rounding then shaping.  I used files rather than chisels. 

 
the piece was big enough to shape three pins. Any more and there would be too much flex on the work piece.  That means some repetition waste for the ends but it shouldn't be too bad and I am milling the wood myself so the costs stay low..  
 

 
I cut them after removing it from the lathe, I didn't want tiny pieces flying around the work area.

 
As you can see there is still variation and more attention to size and detail is needed.  But, for the first three practice pieces I believe it is worth continuing.
 

 
I do have a concern as to whether the wood ( its really thin) would support the lines without breaking.  I'll have to test that.  If they don't I will try again with a stronger wood such as beech or hickory.
 
Sorry for the blurry pictures.  not my best.
 
Richard
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

almost a month has gone by but I have finally finished this section of the practicum.
 
I decided to try and salvage the cat heads which had their top pieces too short. I took them apart, glued a piece to lengthen them and then installed.  It was only a tiny extension so I needed to be careful when cutting and sanding after they were attached.
 


 
Next I worked on the middle rail, again building it from scratch using boxwood.  I used the laser cut pieces as template first gluing the stock in layers then gluing the template.  
 



 
Then added the rest of the structure. 

 
Next I went to work on the bumpkins.  I am holding off on installing them until later as advised by Chuck in his build log.
 
I decided to use my proxxon wood lathe to reduce a strip of 1/8 boxwood to 1/16.
 

I was having some difficulty stabilizing the back end.  I had seen several suggestions but noticed some foam packing near the work table.  I cut out a round piece and pierced it so I could push it around the end of the work piece. I then stuffed that into the tail stock.

Using sandpaper and files I reduced the bumpkin width to
1/16. (the thinning operation was too fragile for me to use a chisel.)

 
I did use a chisel for the end cuts.
,
 
then added the wire extension but will not cut them to size until installation.

 
While things on the bow were uncluttered, I drilled the holes to receive the bumpkins' wire inserts.
 
Finally I added the remaining structure sans bumpkins which I will hold until later. 
 

The figure head is not permanently attached.  Her face is a little flat so I wanted to look at it some more before deciding to keep or re-sculpt.  
 
It came out reasonably well but I can work that looks "off" or "clumsy" in workmanship. After spending a lot of time fabricating the pieces, I seem to still have an unsteady hand when attaching them. I decided to try using a solid base for my hand while I am attaching or drilling.  I have a piece of 8" by 8" by 17" bass wood and sanded the sides smooth.  I is a little heavy but is a really solid hand rest when needed.
 
Now, on to the next section
 
Richard

What would be a "reasonable" depth of cut for the proxxon?  The maximum dpet for the Byrnes is .005" per pass.
 
Thanks,
Richard

I heard back from Jim Byrnes.  It looks like I was taking too small a bite with each pass.
 
I was taking between .001 and .0025 with each cut.  A cut of just .001 depth  would take about 62 passes with the amount I was trying to remove.  Jim recommends roughing it down with about .005 a pass flipping the stock every pass.  Then 2 finish passes. That would take about 12 passes.  A lot less.
 
Greg, I think your comment is to the point. Each tool has its purpose and while I could work with just the Byrnes, the Proxxon would be a nice addition. 
 
When I looked at the Youtube video suggested by Tony, the Proxxon seemed to spit out a lot of shavings and without any way to contain them.  Greg, is that your experience.  I would like to use it in the house if possible.
 
Thanks
Richard. 

Some additional notes:
 
I used the Byrnes sander again to continue thinning a piece of cherry that was 3" by 1/4" by 24".   A couple of things that I noticed that, as with most things, with repeated use I get more skillful.  Also, I may not have been aggressive enough with my cuts which could be why the task is going slowly. I have contacted Jim Byrnes to ask his advice on how aggressive I should be able to set the cut.  I'll post that when I hear back.
 
One benefit is the size of pieces you can cut.  As I try my hand at bashing or scratch building, I find I am using wood sheet that is 4"-5" inches wide.  This is especially useful for the larger bulkheads.  It also reduces the number of planks that have to be milled.  The Byrnes can handle 6" while the Proxxon is limited to 3 7/32". Not a deal breaker but nice to have my options open.
 
Ok, one of the big, really big, benefits of the Byrnes sander.  My "workshop" is our sunroom.  That makes dust control a priority.  Being cautious I had been using the sander outside on the patio but that is pretty much a pain, especially in bad weather.  Yesterday was one of those bad weather days, so I bit the bullet and used it inside with my shop vac attached to the dust port.  I worked the piece I described above.  I used six inch wide 80 grit for the more aggressive thinning then changed the belt to six inch wide 220 grit. (cut from sanding belts from Home Depot.)  No dust escaped.  None at all.  When done there was a very small amount of dust around the sanding built but the vac took this up with ease. As I watch the videos of the Proxxon, I am pretty sure I would only be able to use it outside. 
 
 Not sure what it cost to replace the blades on the Proxxon, or how often that is required.  The sanding belts are only a few dollars each for the 6", which I prefer.  Changing sand paper could not be easier.  About 3 minutes my first time. 
 
Still, that auto feed is a compelling feature. 
 
Richard

Tony,
very helpful, I appreciate the effort in creating the index.  Helped me find the proxxon video quickly. I will be using your index a good deal more in the future.
 
They are saying that the thinnest the plane can go is 2.4 mm, or 3/32 of an inch.  The jig they demonstrated that allows thinner planing is very simple. I suspect it might require some finish sanding. 
 
The attraction is that auto feed.  On the Byrnes thickness sander, it takes a number of manually fed passes to go from 1/4 to 3/16" and their is some skill and steadiness required to make an even, smooth cut without chatter marks.  Could be my hands are too weak or I just need more practice.  Its just that the auto feed really looks helpful for speeding up and easing the process
 
I would not get the Proxxon instead of the thickness sander, but could be they would work well together. In fact, if I had the room, I would consider a compact planner that has greater capacity and is half the price and use the Byrnes to bring it down to final dimension and finish.  But... I do not have the room.
 
Richard

Nigel, I cannot find Dr. Mike video on YouTube, could you help with a link?
 
I checked with the Proxxon dealer and his belief is that you would get auto feed all the way down to the metal.  I suspect that the user experience by Dr Mike would be some real world advice.
 
Thanks,
Richard

One of our members is a Proxxon dealer and I have asked him the minimum thickness that can be fed through the auto feed.
 
Richard

I would like to get some feedback on the Proxxon Planer.  One of the features that make it attractive for me is the autofeed.  But, I have read at least one review that gives the autofeed very low marks saying it does not operate consistently.
 
Thanks,
Richard

Thanks for the tips. Very helpful
Richard

Thanks for the tips. Very helpful
Richard

almost a month has gone by but I have finally finished this section of the practicum.
 
I decided to try and salvage the cat heads which had their top pieces too short. I took them apart, glued a piece to lengthen them and then installed.  It was only a tiny extension so I needed to be careful when cutting and sanding after they were attached.
 


 
Next I worked on the middle rail, again building it from scratch using boxwood.  I used the laser cut pieces as template first gluing the stock in layers then gluing the template.  
 



 
Then added the rest of the structure. 

 
Next I went to work on the bumpkins.  I am holding off on installing them until later as advised by Chuck in his build log.
 
I decided to use my proxxon wood lathe to reduce a strip of 1/8 boxwood to 1/16.
 

I was having some difficulty stabilizing the back end.  I had seen several suggestions but noticed some foam packing near the work table.  I cut out a round piece and pierced it so I could push it around the end of the work piece. I then stuffed that into the tail stock.

Using sandpaper and files I reduced the bumpkin width to
1/16. (the thinning operation was too fragile for me to use a chisel.)

 
I did use a chisel for the end cuts.
,
 
then added the wire extension but will not cut them to size until installation.

 
While things on the bow were uncluttered, I drilled the holes to receive the bumpkins' wire inserts.
 
Finally I added the remaining structure sans bumpkins which I will hold until later. 
 

The figure head is not permanently attached.  Her face is a little flat so I wanted to look at it some more before deciding to keep or re-sculpt.  
 
It came out reasonably well but I can work that looks "off" or "clumsy" in workmanship. After spending a lot of time fabricating the pieces, I seem to still have an unsteady hand when attaching them. I decided to try using a solid base for my hand while I am attaching or drilling.  I have a piece of 8" by 8" by 17" bass wood and sanded the sides smooth.  I is a little heavy but is a really solid hand rest when needed.
 
Now, on to the next section
 
Richard

Time for another update and on to the next chapter (finally)
 
After marking off the deck, I started work on the swivel brackets.  I am a little nervous because when I did the decks I had a few mistakes that might now rear their heads. We'll see.
 
the swivel brackets from a distance. (I really don't want to look at them close :-) )
 

 
Next came the pin rails. I am going to wait until later to install these.
 
I started by cutting out the rails.  The straight rails were pretty easy to cut and shape.  For the curved rails near the bow, i first shaped the outboard edge that would be glued.  I then used a compass opened to 1/8 inch to trace the curve on the opposite side.
 
this picture gives the idea only this first one was done backwards, first the inboard side than the outboard. When I figured out the mistake I changed the sequence for the remaining ones to shape the outboard side first to make sure it fit the curve than the inside one to match.

 
These are the pin rails cut and shaped. I will do any fine tuning during installation.

 
Then using the mill, I created two holes in each to install wires to support the glue up. 
 

 
 
Now comes the fun (insanity??)
 
I decided to try to make the belaying pins myself.  As with the figure head, while it might not be as sharp as the supplied one it would be home made and a skill that I could use for scratch building.  I figured what the heck, if it doesn't work out I could always use the brass ones supplied.
 
First my setup

 
I used a short strip of boxwood, first rounding then shaping.  I used files rather than chisels. 

 
the piece was big enough to shape three pins. Any more and there would be too much flex on the work piece.  That means some repetition waste for the ends but it shouldn't be too bad and I am milling the wood myself so the costs stay low..  
 

 
I cut them after removing it from the lathe, I didn't want tiny pieces flying around the work area.

 
As you can see there is still variation and more attention to size and detail is needed.  But, for the first three practice pieces I believe it is worth continuing.
 

 
I do have a concern as to whether the wood ( its really thin) would support the lines without breaking.  I'll have to test that.  If they don't I will try again with a stronger wood such as beech or hickory.
 
Sorry for the blurry pictures.  not my best.
 
Richard
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

very nice Sal,
I like the way you did the foot ropes and the octagonal sides on the spars. Your setting a nice path for me to follow.
 
Richard

very nice Sal,
I like the way you did the foot ropes and the octagonal sides on the spars. Your setting a nice path for me to follow.
 
Richard

Time for another update and on to the next chapter (finally)
 
After marking off the deck, I started work on the swivel brackets.  I am a little nervous because when I did the decks I had a few mistakes that might now rear their heads. We'll see.
 
the swivel brackets from a distance. (I really don't want to look at them close :-) )
 

 
Next came the pin rails. I am going to wait until later to install these.
 
I started by cutting out the rails.  The straight rails were pretty easy to cut and shape.  For the curved rails near the bow, i first shaped the outboard edge that would be glued.  I then used a compass opened to 1/8 inch to trace the curve on the opposite side.
 
this picture gives the idea only this first one was done backwards, first the inboard side than the outboard. When I figured out the mistake I changed the sequence for the remaining ones to shape the outboard side first to make sure it fit the curve than the inside one to match.

 
These are the pin rails cut and shaped. I will do any fine tuning during installation.

 
Then using the mill, I created two holes in each to install wires to support the glue up. 
 

 
 
Now comes the fun (insanity??)
 
I decided to try to make the belaying pins myself.  As with the figure head, while it might not be as sharp as the supplied one it would be home made and a skill that I could use for scratch building.  I figured what the heck, if it doesn't work out I could always use the brass ones supplied.
 
First my setup

 
I used a short strip of boxwood, first rounding then shaping.  I used files rather than chisels. 

 
the piece was big enough to shape three pins. Any more and there would be too much flex on the work piece.  That means some repetition waste for the ends but it shouldn't be too bad and I am milling the wood myself so the costs stay low..  
 

 
I cut them after removing it from the lathe, I didn't want tiny pieces flying around the work area.

 
As you can see there is still variation and more attention to size and detail is needed.  But, for the first three practice pieces I believe it is worth continuing.
 

 
I do have a concern as to whether the wood ( its really thin) would support the lines without breaking.  I'll have to test that.  If they don't I will try again with a stronger wood such as beech or hickory.
 
Sorry for the blurry pictures.  not my best.
 
Richard
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

very nice Sal,
I like the way you did the foot ropes and the octagonal sides on the spars. Your setting a nice path for me to follow.
 
Richard

Time for another update and on to the next chapter (finally)
 
After marking off the deck, I started work on the swivel brackets.  I am a little nervous because when I did the decks I had a few mistakes that might now rear their heads. We'll see.
 
the swivel brackets from a distance. (I really don't want to look at them close :-) )
 

 
Next came the pin rails. I am going to wait until later to install these.
 
I started by cutting out the rails.  The straight rails were pretty easy to cut and shape.  For the curved rails near the bow, i first shaped the outboard edge that would be glued.  I then used a compass opened to 1/8 inch to trace the curve on the opposite side.
 
this picture gives the idea only this first one was done backwards, first the inboard side than the outboard. When I figured out the mistake I changed the sequence for the remaining ones to shape the outboard side first to make sure it fit the curve than the inside one to match.

 
These are the pin rails cut and shaped. I will do any fine tuning during installation.

 
Then using the mill, I created two holes in each to install wires to support the glue up. 
 

 
 
Now comes the fun (insanity??)
 
I decided to try to make the belaying pins myself.  As with the figure head, while it might not be as sharp as the supplied one it would be home made and a skill that I could use for scratch building.  I figured what the heck, if it doesn't work out I could always use the brass ones supplied.
 
First my setup

 
I used a short strip of boxwood, first rounding then shaping.  I used files rather than chisels. 

 
the piece was big enough to shape three pins. Any more and there would be too much flex on the work piece.  That means some repetition waste for the ends but it shouldn't be too bad and I am milling the wood myself so the costs stay low..  
 

 
I cut them after removing it from the lathe, I didn't want tiny pieces flying around the work area.

 
As you can see there is still variation and more attention to size and detail is needed.  But, for the first three practice pieces I believe it is worth continuing.
 

 
I do have a concern as to whether the wood ( its really thin) would support the lines without breaking.  I'll have to test that.  If they don't I will try again with a stronger wood such as beech or hickory.
 
Sorry for the blurry pictures.  not my best.
 
Richard
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Time for another update and on to the next chapter (finally)
 
After marking off the deck, I started work on the swivel brackets.  I am a little nervous because when I did the decks I had a few mistakes that might now rear their heads. We'll see.
 
the swivel brackets from a distance. (I really don't want to look at them close :-) )
 

 
Next came the pin rails. I am going to wait until later to install these.
 
I started by cutting out the rails.  The straight rails were pretty easy to cut and shape.  For the curved rails near the bow, i first shaped the outboard edge that would be glued.  I then used a compass opened to 1/8 inch to trace the curve on the opposite side.
 
this picture gives the idea only this first one was done backwards, first the inboard side than the outboard. When I figured out the mistake I changed the sequence for the remaining ones to shape the outboard side first to make sure it fit the curve than the inside one to match.

 
These are the pin rails cut and shaped. I will do any fine tuning during installation.

 
Then using the mill, I created two holes in each to install wires to support the glue up. 
 

 
 
Now comes the fun (insanity??)
 
I decided to try to make the belaying pins myself.  As with the figure head, while it might not be as sharp as the supplied one it would be home made and a skill that I could use for scratch building.  I figured what the heck, if it doesn't work out I could always use the brass ones supplied.
 
First my setup

 
I used a short strip of boxwood, first rounding then shaping.  I used files rather than chisels. 

 
the piece was big enough to shape three pins. Any more and there would be too much flex on the work piece.  That means some repetition waste for the ends but it shouldn't be too bad and I am milling the wood myself so the costs stay low..  
 

 
I cut them after removing it from the lathe, I didn't want tiny pieces flying around the work area.

 
As you can see there is still variation and more attention to size and detail is needed.  But, for the first three practice pieces I believe it is worth continuing.
 

 
I do have a concern as to whether the wood ( its really thin) would support the lines without breaking.  I'll have to test that.  If they don't I will try again with a stronger wood such as beech or hickory.
 
Sorry for the blurry pictures.  not my best.
 
Richard
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

very nice Sal,
I like the way you did the foot ropes and the octagonal sides on the spars. Your setting a nice path for me to follow.
 
Richard

Next probems solved
Thank you all for watching, comments and your so many likes!
 
Today I could manage, to solder the eyelets to the mounting plates, these parts are really small.
 
The eyelets

 
First mounting plate in the basic soldering form

 
Soldering form completed, mounting plate and eyelets fixed for soldering

 
Finished mounting plates, some smaller differents are still to see, this is only the outside of the eyelets, the holes are all in correct position. This is important, the levers will not work correct, when the holes are in different position.


 
Regards
Gerhard
 
 
 

Hi again, repeatedly
 
This weekend was a bit busy not only for model building, but also with home renovation. New kitchen furniture arrived, lots of work for the next days.........
 
But I managed to do something for the SMS Danzig too ! First I had to regroup the new parts at the drawing, not to waste too much brass sheet.

 
The printed sheets were glued to the brass plate, 0,5 mm used as the most parts are. I used superglue for that, it`s the best way to do it.

 
As first parts I made the mounting plates, they were cut out with a little oversize

 
I always use a wooden collet to hold that small parts,working is much easier that way.

 
First I filed the outer contour of the parts, different files were used for filing.


 
Next I made the inner hape


 
All four plates done, the holes were made the way I showed former

 
Even the first four eyelets are ready, they are made from spare etched parts.

 
Best regards, thank you all for watching, and your likes
Gerhard

Hi Mark
That is on my intention, I like to show how I work, maybe it can help others.
 
Today was a not so much metalworking day, just the upper holders to the Wheelhouse davits soldered. I used baking paper between the holders and the davits, to keep them adjustable.


 
Most of the day were spent with the drawings for the second version of the levers to the wheelhous boats. They are a bit more difficult than the first ones, but the function is much better to see. I used the plan nr. 231 from the Atlas du Genie Maritime, and made my drawings in OpenOffice. This took me some hours, the drawings will be glued to 0,5mm brass, middle parts of the levers will be made from 1 x 2 mm brass bar.
The original plan

 
The drawings

 
Best regards, thank you all for dropping in, and your nice likes, of course
Gerhard

Hi Bob
 
Thank you!
That`s why I am in forums, to learn from others, and to show how I do the different jobs. It`s all a play of give and take........
I always try to do the single parts as close to the original as possible, but there will be some of them a bit different to original. This comes, when it is easier to mount them to the ship. 
Todays work was to finish the mounting parts  for the wheelhouse davits, only 8 parts, but a bit complicated. I had to take care, that the mounts are not soldered to the davits, especially the lower mounts must move free.
 
Upper mount before soldering

 
Upper mounts ready done

 
Lower mounts done, the davits can move free, sorry, made no photos from the working stages .

 
Thank you all for watching and your so many likes!
Best regards
Gerhard

Started the yard construction and since all the yards basically follow the same 4 step construction procedure I decided to build all eight at the same time.  All yards were cut and tapered following the plans using the appropriate size dowel.
 
For the octagon shaped section of the yards I used some dimensional lumber from Midwest Products that I had purchased a while back.  Using a caliper I measured the diameter of the lower mast (0.156”) then determined the circumference (3.14 * 0.156”=0.49”) and divided that number by 8 (0.49/8=0.061”) which very closely equaled the width of the Midwest lumber.  The ends were rounded and glued in position.  These pieces were also very thin so the edges didn’t need to be beveled.  The gaps were filled with some Hobbylite filler and then sanded smooth.  The topsail and topgallant yards were done the same way but with a different size wood strip.
 


 
 
For the cleats I glued two rectangular pieces of 1/16" square wood stock to each yard.  After the glue set for a day I sanded the the blocks to the shape shown on the drawings.  For the lower notch I used a file that had teeth on its edges only.  The yards were then painted.
 

 
 
Foot ropes added.  The 28 gauge wire was used for the footropes as described.  Still need to add them to the topgallant and spritsail yard.