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EricWiberg

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About EricWiberg

  • Birthday 12/08/1961

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  1.    Archi reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  2.    rybakov reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  3.    EricWiberg reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  4.    EricWiberg reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  5.    EricWiberg reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  6. EricWiberg
    Finishing the starboard skids. I had fabricated the skids to extend down to the "top" bottom wale... but if the "lower" bottom wale is dipping into the water amidships, then it made sense to me to lower the skid down to the "lower" bottom wale. I am also doubling/reinforcing the thickness of the skids at the bottom wales; I have seen that on a few drawings and models... not sure what that is called besides "reinforcement". The next step will be the skids/hand rails at the ladder steps on the hull. However, I am a bit puzzled as... were all of the ladder steps jutting out the same amount from the hull.. let's say 6 inches? But if we have steps on a wale, they will stick out farther than a step not on a wale, if this makes sense. I am thinking that the ladder steps stuck out to to a fixed point, whether they were on a wale or not, that followed the tumblehome of the hull. So let's say we pick 12 inches out from the hull... on a 6 inch thick wale, the step would be 6 inches wide. but the next step - NOT on a wale - would this have to be 12 inches wide?!? Hope this makes sense
  7.    Archi reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  8.    Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  9.    BLACK VIKING reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  10.    rybakov reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  11.    popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  12. EricWiberg
    College soccer is done and outdoor preparations for winter are complete... so finally a lot more time is available for me to work in the shipyard! The wales and drift rails are complete on the starboard side. The upper wales and bottom drift rail will be covered with a golden listons d' or "rope", but the upper drift rail will be plain, so I am using bolts on the upper drift rail as I did on the lower and middle wales. I used 0.5mm (.020") diameter bolt heads on the lower/middle wales, so I used 0.3mm (0.012") diameter bolt heads on the top drift rail. I also fabricated new fenders and am ready to glue them in place... fortunately I remembered to make them a bit more proud than the listons d' or rope will be. That leaves the outside ladder steps/rail to be completed. So after the port side is completed in several days, I am on the verge of being able to paint the hull halves.
  13.    Archi reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  14.    popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  15.    EricWiberg reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  16.    rybakov reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  17. EricWiberg
    Well, that wasn't too painful! After Marc's observation that, in actual practice, the sheer of the hull planking would have aligned with the sheer of the wales... I had to fix it. Perhaps hard to see, but it should be much easier to see after painting and a wash coat. Of course, I have some touching up to do... Now to affix the upper wales to the port side. It was actully very easy to do, as once I got the lower bottom wale on ages ago, that became my guide. I just cut little spacer blocks to maintain the desired seperation between the wales, just by sliding the block back and forth and then clamping the wale in place. And I finally got a sample listons d'or available to see how it fits. The listons d' or is two 16 gauge copper wires twisted together so the diameter is 0.090"; then the wire is laid in a channel created by wood strips 0.055" high. A couple of passes with a belt sander results in a flat side and a rope that is now almost half its orginal thickness. As per Marc (Hubac's Historian) and GuyM, when laid on a wale, the goal is to have it appear that the gilded rope was carved down right out of the wale strip.
  18.    EricWiberg reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  19. EricWiberg
    Thanks, Ian! Not sure about the brave part, though... maybe... "not aware of what I got myself into"!
  20.    EricWiberg reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  21. EricWiberg
    Well, Marc... I agree with you regarding the plank lines. The photo below from your Pinterest site clearly shows the plank lines match trhe sheer lines of the wales. I have come too far on this 1671 SR path to ignore an inaccuracy like this. So with a little bit of Tamiya putty... The good news is that there really is no issue at the bow or amidships. My "new" wales start to sheer up closer to the stern. Now, after light sanding and the rescribing, the hull truly will look like Frankenstein's Monster, but nothing that some primer and the eventual paint scheme won't cover up.
  22.    EricWiberg reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  23. EricWiberg
    Regarding the underwater paint scheme for White Stuff.... I have imagined that to be a gooey mess that is smeared on. Would that have the effect of hiding the underwater plank lines?
  24. EricWiberg
    Marc, as usual, I really appreciate any and all of your comments! Hmmm... you have given me something to think about with the planking... I have been dissatisfied with enough of my initial efforts that removing them and starting over - 2-3-4 times! - is commonplace. Thanks for the observation on gilding, as that is just one of the many things that are in my mind!
  25.    EricWiberg reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  26.    EricWiberg reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  27. EricWiberg
    The front/rear bulwarks are glued on... Apoxie Sculpt makes a rock hard bond! Zip ties and clamps held the port side rear bulwark in place for 24 hours (the last bulwark to be attached). As the port side glue bonds dried, I affixed the upper wales on the starboard side, at 3.2mm wide, thinner than the middle and lower wales, and only 0.75mm thick to allow the listons d'or to be attached and seem to be carved out of the wale strip. The listons d' or for the upper wales are made from 16 gauge copper wire twisted together to imitate rope; the back side will be sanded on a belt sander almost 1/3 of the way through to make a flat surface for glueing. The starboard side is waiting for the Apoxie Sculpt to dry for light sanding of the bulwark/hull joints. The interior planking of the bulwarks are completed as well.. Finally, before she sits for the next 24 hours to dry, this is an attempt at a waterline photo to show the bulk of the ship above the waves.
  28.    EricWiberg reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  29. EricWiberg
    Whew... the starboard bulwarks are glued in. .. thanks to zip ties and clamps. I knew that the the little rabbett available for glueing didn;t offer much structural support, so I made liberal use of Apoxie Sculpt to fill the inside gaps... I am also using small tabs affixed with CVA glue as well. After 48 hours of curing, the hull/bulwarks structure does seem much more rigid. I will have a lot of gentle sanding to do on the exterior. Note this large gap, into which I push a thread of Apoxie Sculpt. I then apply several drops of the Apoxie Sculpt solvent and gently rub, so the the Apoxie Sculpt becomes almost watery and it spreads out very well. The first half of the gap, from the waist to the bow, will be covered by one of the upper wales. However, the upper wales will sheer upward as it approaches the stern to match the lower and middle wales, so I have to fill/level the gap as best I can. This may take several iterations of Apoxie Sculpt before I am satisfied that the gap is levelled out. I won't touch the port side bulwarks until I learn from the starboard side; dry fitting shows that the port side bulwark fit is tighter, though, Glueing the bulwarks on at this stage initially seemed intimidating, but after a lot of thinking and reviewing the many other builds out there, I was able to lay out a sequential plan, andf then just execute the plan. I am sure that there will be plenty of "I didn't think of that!" down the road, but I will just deal with those as they arrive.
  30. EricWiberg
    And.... we are ready to glue the upper bulwarks in! Cap rails, fighting holes, miscellaneous items are alll done. Some minor things can't be done until the bulwarks are in, such as finishing the interior planking, but the major focus will be on adding the upper wales with listons d' or. I have a several day wait for some spring clamps that I ordered online to arrive. I could not - even at the local box stores - find any clamps that had a minimum 4" long neck to fit over the bulwarks. They should be here on Monday... fingers crossed. In the mean time, I continue to puzzle over how to "finish" the top of the steps on the side of the hull. I will not have a gangway deck at the waist, so I may well have to somehow add a ladder on the interior. But, I have seen some drawings of Dutch ships that actually have a hinged door at the top of the bulwark at the waist, cap rails included on the door.
  31. EricWiberg
    Marc.. I never thought of it that way... "In reality, though, it’s just a long series of mini-builds that aggregate into the finished thing"... but that sums it up in one sentence!
  32. EricWiberg
    Finally... the port side is almost caught up with the starboard side (getting 3 hours of work every morning this week by waking at 5AM!). I had to finish the scarf joint through bolts and then the wale "bolts" on the port hull (tiny little round head nails that I found online). Then it was on the putting the timberheads on the sheer rails. Honestly, when I first saw how Marc (Hubac's Historian) did this several years ago and how he had to patiently account for the sheer step at every timberhead... I dreaded reaching that point in my build. However, I can honestly say it was so much easier to do than I thought. I would have absolutely no problem adding this detail again. Part of it may be the "Chopper"... it makes very nice, consistent cuts in the polystyrene. I made the initial timberheads 7mm in length before gradually cutting/sanding them down to 2.5mm in height; starting with 7mm made it very easy to use my laser level to ensure the timberheads were always plumb. Then I used 0.5mm thick stock to make the framing on each timberhead. So I simply have to finish the framing on the timberheads and drill out the fighting holes in the waist; so in 1-2 days, I will be finally in a position to glue in the bulwarks as GuyM has done. Of course, the hull is NOT glued together yet... the bulwarks need to be on to create the upper wales and also to see the area on the rear bulwqrk that I have available to festoon with fluer de lis.
  33. EricWiberg
    Work has continued over the last month, albeit at a snails pace (coaching college soccer consumes some time in the Fall!). However, I have enough time this AM to complete the rabbets for the port side gun ports.... that leaves only the fighting holes at the waist... and then I get to install the timber heads and cap rails. It is interesting to me to look at the "before/after" appearance of the bulwarks. And soon enough, they will be glued in place...
  34. EricWiberg
    When I get to needing many items like that, I will certainly make molds as you have. I am OK with the dolphins being "hand made" individually as when they are almost dry, I can add any subtle bends or twists etc to make them fit snugly at the various sheer steps.
  35. EricWiberg
    OK.. that's about it for labor in the shipyard for this weekend... it's too nice outside! I did solve my dolphin issue at the sheer steps. I was unhappy that the dolphin body was all in the same plane. I needed the belly to rest on the carving and the head and tail to come out from the body 2-3mm so they could be on the side of the rail. So I finally figured out to have 2mm Evergreen "steps" for the head and tail to rest on. Now the belly is not in the same plane as the head and tail. However, I will be waiting for some time to glue in the dolphins, I think, as they might as well have a sign on their necks that says "fragile, please knock me off!" I am so close to glueing in the bulwarks so I can finish the upper wales and get to "listons d or". It is time to clean up and make sure all of the holes are drilled etc. And I also am giving lots of thought to the quarter gallery layout... due to the sheer of the wales, I cannot use the kit QG. The inner bulwark planking needs a light scribe to finish it, etc.

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