MisterMeester

Hello Evan! Thank you for your post. Honestly, removing the well deck bulwarks had never entered my mind. I’ll take a look at that when the time comes, however preliminary thought on that is….leaving the delicate PE without any backing support in that area makes me nervous. I neglected to mention….I found working on the hull, prior to acquiring and employing the cradle I’m using for her, to be awkward and cumbersome. Prior to the cradle, I managed to inadvertently erode away a fair amount of the rivet detail. The main reason I got this MiniBrass kit was to rectify the lost rivet detail. My initial plan was to use 3D rivet decals (I even went as far as purchasing some), but decided the PE was the way to go instead. Cheers, Mark

Ahoy Harald! Thanks for your post. The E6000 packaging says it's good for metals, so I suppose it would work. I considered it, but for the sole reason that the instructions do not mention it, I decided on epoxy. I'll be touching up the edges with CA. Speaking of glue....the Gorilla two part epoxy I've been using is 5 minute quick setting. I'm finding it to be not very user friendly for the larger back plates. My method of application involves mixing a puddle of the stuff onto an old CD and transferring it to the PE by way of dabbing a round toothpick in it and applying small drops onto the PE. This is somewhat time consuming. Longer than 5 minutes for the larger plates. The epoxy begins to set before I'm done, resulting in it becoming globby and stringy. Bob Smith Industries makes a "Mid-Cure" (15 minute) and "Slow-Cure" (30 minute) epoxy. Segue to the Saskatoon hobby shop you likely visited. Express Hobbies. Couple of blocks North of 33rd St. It's essentially the one and only here. They have both epoxies in stock. I think I'll get the Slow-Cure and give that a go. Back to the hobby shop....I moved here in 2016. Didn't actually step through their door until 2022. Not sure what else might have been here before then. There's one other store here that I've never been to as they are pretty much all about RC. Cheers, Mark

Argh. Didn't take long to have a couple of issues. I take full accountability for my mistakes, but some clearer and more comprehensive instructions would be nice. But that's part of scale model building, isn't it? The first issue. Fitting Back Plate A, for the Port Side of the kit. As one can see of the port holes within the blue oval, I did not get the back plate lined up properly. The way the instructions are written suggests that the back plate can, and ought to, be fitted in place with Plate A upside down. No. This is not the best way. Don't do what I did. Upon gluing Back Plate C to Plate C (haven't done B yet), I found that what's better is to flip it back over to topside up and work the underneath back plate from above, with a scriber tool. The "Utley" aspect of said portholes, as well as the inside portion of the window frames, are visible and the back plate can be manipulated into position this way. The second issue. Completely got the placement of Back Plate DP wrong. The end in the blue circle needs to be at the end of the green circle. I was wondering why there was no port hole in Plate A for this end of the back plate. Further, I trimmed the end as it was slightly covering the adjacent smaller port hole by ~1mm. I had just assumed this was a manufacturing flaw. Nope. Modeler flaw. Having said that, the instructions could be better. I'm a visual guy and a better diagram would have gone a long way. The contrasting color of blue (the back plates) to grey (the fret, etc.) is not very evident in this particular spot. Further, all the port holes of this back plate are indicated in white....except for the one port hole at the left end, where the red arrow points. Yes, turns out it is indicated, but in extremely hard to see, and easy to miss, grey. Just a poor visual representation. Had it been indicated in white, like all the others, it would have been obvious. Great. What to do? Am I going to have to order another sheet and go through another three months of waiting for it to ship? Thankfully, no. I managed to separate the back plates from Plate A with a straight razor. (Gorilla two part epoxy glue used.) And cleaned up with a sanding stick. Ready for attempt #2. I'm happy, and relieved, to announce that attempt #2 was a success. Back Plates A and DP are now glued on Plate A correctly. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Mark

Small update. Got the starboard side anchor guard bars and porthole guard bars glued on a couple weeks ago. In so doing, I discovered a mistake in the instructions. The location of the non-existent porthole indicated (starboard side only) is not where the instructions say, but rather ~20mm further aft. But it's a moot point anyway, as Trumpeter did not even mold this porthole into the hull, and therefore, it's obvious. Golf season is officially over for me (as of 10 days ago). I've been busy with chores around the house, transitioning from summer to winter. Getting back to the bench just now. Next step will be starting work on the MiniBrass Hull Profiles PE set. This set is quite extensive and will transform the hull significantly. The set arrived (last May) damaged. All three sheets bent. I assume this occurred during shipping. I emailed the proprietor advising him of this. I mentioned I thought I could make the damaged product work, but suggested he might want to re-address choice of packaging for future orders. He replied that this is the first time he had a report of damage and assured me that he'd replace any parts that won't work. Fingers crossed. Intro to the instructions... General information page.... First three pages, describing the first steps... Expecting to get started this afternoon. Should be fun. Thanks for looking and cheers, Mark

Ya, they’re quite tiny. And such a huge project overall. I’m figuring two to three more years at least. Probably more. Found your build log and following. Happy modeling and cheers, Mark

MiniBrass Pad Eyes P2, P3, P5, and finally P4 attached. Pad Eyes complete. Not perfect by any means. A few are slightly crooked and there is excess CA glue here and there. Probably goes without saying that the P4 Pad Eyes (the smallest) were the hardest. The white object in the tray on the left in the first pic is a cat whisker. I used that for applying a tiny drop of CA glue to each P4 base before attaching the P4 eye to the base. I forget where I heard about using that as a tool for small amounts of CA as it was quite awhile ago. Perhaps a member of Model Shipwrights of Niagra, but I'm not sure. This is the first time I've employed a cat whisker for that purpose and it worked out quite well. I used a glue looper for all the other gluing. Having said that, one lesson learned with this aspect of my build is I think I underestimate the power of CA glue, and tend to use too much. Looking forward to working with it more. I need to find something to practice on with it. As for fret nubs, I did not bother sanding/filing any nubs off the remaining PE beyond P1. I figured it's so tiny and hardly noticeable that it wasn't worth the bother and risk of losing some of the parts. I considered cleaning them up (fret nubs and excess glue) once attached to the hull, but upon closer inspection with my Vision Aid magnifiers, I'm going to leave well enough alone. Another lesson learned is my eyes aren't what they used to be. Despite using the magnifiers, this PE (especially the P4 eyes) was somewhat difficult to see and work with, but I managed. Hoping I will never have to work with such small PE ever again. I suppose now, the hardest trick of all will be making sure they stay intact. (Read: not get careless and bump them off). One final thought on the Pad Eyes regarding mention of mine upthread of the hole of the eyes getting CA glue in them. How did that happen? Well, in working with the subsequent eyes, it became apparent. It is quite difficult to attach an eye to a base while maintaining a vertical aspect of the eye. Often they wanted to just flop on their side once they came into contact with the drop of glue. Hence, once on their side and in the glue, that glue gets into the hole. Just a heads up for anyone else who might be using this aftermarket kit on their model. Thanks for looking and cheers, Mark

You have the same Titanic kit and same PE? Mark

Despite golf season still being in full swing, I've found some bench time lately. Before continuing with the PE for the hull sides, I've decided to do the Pad Eyes at and near the stern next. This is tiny PE. Did the larger P1 Pad Eyes first. As evident in the pictures, this PE has two parts. The eye itself, and the base. I figured it would be easiest to attach the eyes to the bases with the latter still attached to the fret. I filed the fret nubs off the eye parts with an 800 grit sanding stick while holding the part with square jawed flat pliers. Tricky. Then using the Mini Brass instructions, as well as Graham Boyd's document, I placed the positions of each Pad Eye, by eyeball, on the Port side with an Ultra Fine Sharpie. For the Starboard side placements, I measured the Port side placements from various references points and placed accordingly to make both sides symmetrical. And a couple of pics showing the P1 Pad Eyes in place. Unfortunately, I somehow managed to get CA glue within the eye hole of most of them. At least, it looks that way. Despite using Vision Aid magnifiers, I found it quite hard to actually tell. I tried cleaning them out while they were still on the fret, but after breaking two of them off, I gave up. I suppose, in hindsight I could have burnt the CA off with a lighter, but that heat would most likely have caused each eye to become removed from each base. Thus, having to start all over. Anyway, not sure how that might have happened. As they are so small, I'm happy with how they turned out. I think the ultimate tell will be when I get paint on them. As for fret nubs on the base parts, I cut as close as possible to the base edge. Consequently, I manage to avoid any nubs on the bases. If there are any there, I couldn't see them. And finally, as far as I could tell from instructions and reference photos, the two aftermost Pad Eyes were on the centerline (which makes sense to me). As a consequence of that, there is one extra P1 and one extra P4 provided. Hoping the smaller ones will go as well as these ones did. Thanks for looking and cheers, Mark

😮 Looking good, Peter. Cheers, Mark

Small update. Got the MiniBrass anchor guard bars PE installed on the Port side. As well as the single and double porthole guard bars on the Port side. Dime added in photo for scale reference. This is tiny PE. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Mark

Update: After much thought, consternation and reluctance, the sole reason I started a build log for this model on Model Ship World was because one+ year ago the FineScale Modeler Forum (of which I was a newbie) was proving to be a $%&*#@-Show. I had started a build log there, but gave up after only one week. They have since (about 7-9 months ago) done a 180 with a new platform and it's waaaaay better. (I'm on there every day now). Not having come anywhere close to completing this build once they had fixed things, I decided to start a build log on there again. I also started a build log (later) on another forum. Modelers Social Club. With the other two build logs for this model, I decided to not bother updating this log here. I recently put my 1/200 Trumpeter Titanic on hold for a few months to get this model finished. Having said that, for the purpose of closure here, I'm posting one final pic of this build. This model is complete. If anyone is interested in the progress of how this build went, they can find it on FineScale Modeler Forums. Figure category. Same username as here. MisterMeester. Sorry to have used up bandwidth with this log. If admins wish to delete this thread entirely, I'm okay with that. Cheers, Mark

The Prow Hawse Port. Used for the center anchor as well as being towed from ahead. It did not look as Trumpeter molded it. I began with filing down Trumpeter’s version. Not sure if that was necessary. It might have helped keep the saw in line. I used a #13 Excel saw blade for the cut. I cut down 25mm. This was conservative, making sure I didn’t cut too far, and fined tuned later. The gap here, on the Starboard side, came away pretty much on its own. For the Port side I had to do some additional cutting. The first additional cut was easy. For the second additional cut I decided to drill holes to make the turn easier. I suppose, in hindsight, I could have made that cut coming up from the bottom instead. I measured the gap required to be ~0.75mm wide. Using a file to accomplish that width. Cutting complete. No turning back now. I put the Fo’c’sle deck in place to ensure no fit issues down the road. The new Hawse Port CA glued in place. I used a straight edge to ensure proper alignment with the stem. The next step was puttying. I first taped the exterior of the gaps, to act as a backstop, because….. …. I applied putty from the interior first. I let this set for 24 hours. I used Milliput Superfine. As expected, some putty was pushed through to the exterior. Port side as well. Milliput Superfine putty applied to the Port side. Let to cure 24 hours. The red arrow indicates a piece of styrene strip I taped in place. I neglected to take a picture of this prior to puttying. Purpose of this was to let the putty create the forward edge of the recessed strake here, as opposed to me trying to sculpt it later. Post sanding, Port side. Starboard side. Blue arrow in this image better explains the intent of the styrene strip. Red arrow indicates the Mainmast Forestay fitting. Note that it is intact. I flipped the hull upside down to work on the Starboard side. I’m right-handed and wanted to sand from aft to forward, for the most part. My main concern with this was that I hoped the different perspective wouldn’t cause a different result. Starboard side putty in place. Let to cure 24 hours. Starboard side sanding complete (for the most part). Note the red arrow indicating the now missing Forestay fitting. While the hull was still upside down in the cradle, I decided to do some clean up and clipped it with the hand vac. Downside to many resin parts. Very brittle. Spent about 20 minutes looking for it. Next task was to fill these gaps (within the red circles). And filled. For the top ridge I used 0.75mm x 1.0mm styrene strip, sanded down to ~ 0.55mm² prior to gluing in place. For the bottom gap I used 0.25mm x 0.5mm strip. The ridge gaps on the Starboard side were not as bad and did not require styrene. The camera shows me they still need attention, however, so I’ll take another look at those. New forestay fitting manufactured from 0.75mm x 1.5mm styrene strip. The hole is 0.7mm. Larger than the original hole, but it’s the smallest drill bit I have. Probably should have left this well enough alone until much later. No doubt it will get broken off again. Note to self: Be careful. Some final shots. The last was one shows the cover in place. It’s not perfect, but disaster averted. This could have gone so wrong. I'm very pleased with how it turned out. Thanks for looking. Suggestions are welcome. Cheers, Mark

Me too! Aiming for late Spring, early Summer. It has to be painted outside. In the garage at the very least, but it’s not heated and not the best lighting. Cheers, Mark

Progress update: Not much. I decided to scribe the panel lines after all, for the remaining Double Strakes that were missing, but already flush. So, now there is at least representation of them. Turns out that will be moot anyway. To be explained later. Continuing with the Coaling Doors, I have those all applied now. Prep for adding the indentation for one of the two doors missing the indentation. And removal of the molded door itself in advance of attaching the PE replacement. Starboard side Coaling Doors complete. Proceeding onward, I was puzzled over where the Cleats, on the same PE sheet as the Coaling Doors, go. I had no clue. So, upon researching this it finally became apparent that the instructions for the MiniBrass Coaling Doors and Cleats PE sheet is buried in the MiniBrass Stern Plating Instructions pdf document. Sheesh! Not only that, but the instructions for the MiniBrass 1:200 Titanic Hull Details PE sheet are buried in the same document. Sheesh x2! Absolutely no mention of this in the title of the document. Just “Stern Plating Instructions”. Ridiculous. Rant over. So, it turns out the Cleats are actually associated with the Coaling Doors. A pair of them are to be attached above each door. I’ll be leaving that for another day. I was also curious why the MiniBrass Hull Details sheet has only five so called “Gangway Doors”, when there are 16 total molded doors on the hull (8 each side). This research led to discombobulated thoughts on what the heck is accurate and what isn’t, strategy, and a potential change of plans on which direction to go with some aspects of the hull build. I learned that the five doors provided are optional doors for E deck, and are to be used to compliment the MiniBrass 200 HULL PLATING PE sheets. I also learned that the KA Detail Kit has PE hull doors for the model. I missed that the first time I looked through the kit. So, at this point, I decided to go with the KA doors. I began with Port Forward. The KA instructions indicate a door goes here (red circle). It is also “implied” (my term) from the Starboard profile hull plating diagram in a particular reference book, that there should be a door here (again, red circle) so I attached a KA door here. As well, it appeared to me that some other modifications were required. The raised feature within the blue circle is not in said diagram and needed removal. Further, the lower portion of the raised feature within the black circle needed to be trimmed. Here’s an image of the work done. But wait! The KA instructions are wrong, and the hull plating profile perused is that of the Starboard side, not the Port side! I forget the sequences of events moving forward from here, but upon researching the doors more I discovered the following: - There are instructions for MiniBrass’ Hull Plating PE sheets (who knew?). I was previously aware that MiniBrass has these sheets available, however I had assumed that using them requires major plastic cutting surgery. After reading through the instructions (that I just discovered), it looks to me that the application of these is not as hard as I originally thought. - Also discovered in said instructions, apparently, there is no such door on the Port side, such as what I just applied. - Unfortunately, there is no Port profile hull plating diagram in the (to remain nameless) reference book to point this out. - However, perusing a photograph in another reference book confirms this. No door here (red circle). Looks like I got the other modifications wrong as well (blue and black circles). Also, while working on this door application I couldn’t help but notice (for the umpteenth time) the rivet damage I’ve incurred to the hull prior to having the cradle I have it in now. Prior to the cradle, I just had the hull on two boards with hand towels as protection. It didn’t always work out. Not to mention some of the rivets were inadvertently chiseled away by carelessness while chiseling something adjacent. Sometime a go, I purchased an HO scale 3D rivet decals sheet to help rectify this, but they just aren’t the same. Taking into consideration…. - the rivet damage…. - that the Trumpeter hull rivet detail is actually quite lacking overall and that the MiniBrass PE kit captures the actual rivet detail…. - that the MiniBrass kit looks to be not that difficult to apply….. - and the MiniBrass kit should take out further guesswork of what goes where…. I’ve decided to order the MiniBrass 200 Hull Plating Kit. Oh, and the scribed panel lines to indicate the missing Double Strakes…. those will be replaced correctly by this PE. In the meantime, I’ve applied the Trumpeter provided PE parts 48, 49, 50, and 51. Condenser Intake screens. Next work will be on the Prow Hawser Port. This piece was purchased from Shapeways. This will require some plastic surgery and putty/sculpting application. Intending major patience on this. Even if the first cut takes me an hour, it takes me an hour. Hoping it goes well. Hopefully what I’ve described makes sense. Believe me, to achieve an accurate representation of the Titanic with this kit is a major challenge and I’m often lost myself. I can only image the experience of what others just reading about it is. Thanks for looking. Suggestions are welcome. Cheers, Mark

Looks great, Evan. Will probably follow your lead on the keels. I have a set purchased from Shapeways, but they are very brittle and no doubt will break at some point. Leaning toward scratch building them also. Cheers, Mark