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petervisser

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Victoria, B.C.
  • Interests
    Ship models, travel, history, swimming, reading, flight simming

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  1. Thanks for the pic's Pete. I have put in a request to AL for the parts comprising the bow and stern decoration. Fingers crossed that they get back to me... Cheers, Peter
  2. Hi Blunty. Your model looks great! Lots of very nice detailing. As for the rake of the masts they do vary a little. I have Longridge's book and he states that the foremast is raked at 86*, the main mast 85*and the mizzen mast 84*. The angle is measured from the horizontal to the after side of each mast. Therefore they are angled aft, for clarification, By the way, I wondered if you could send me a photo of the bow and stern decoration that's included in your kit. The ones from Billing that I have are not ideal, especially, the stern. I am thinking of applying to AL to see if I could purchase a set of theirs. Anyhoo, great work so far. Good luck with the masting and rigging! Peter
  3. Hi Ed, I just ran across your log and will be following along. I have this kit on my shelf as well, and it's one I've always wanted to build. Handy that you've started yours so I have an idea what's involved. And I have the self same "deck plank clamps" that you have so I'm set in that department! Good luck with your build. You have made an excellent start! Cheers, Peter
  4. Hallo Riat. You would be better off getting some thin plywood or sheet stock and starting from scratch. I am building an old Cutty Sark that Billing produced and had the same issue. Starting with fresh lumber is the way to go, I think. Cheers, Peter
  5. Hi Dave, Have you thought about using bee's wax on your rigging? I use it all the time for most of the rigging I do. it adds a bit of stiffness to the thread you're working with and it does away with the "fuzziness" of the thread as well. Try drawing the thread through the wax a couple of times. It also adds a little tackiness to the thread which helps hold it in place to certain contact points and holds knots a bit better. The only places to put glue on rigging is on the knots to make them permanent. However, I prefer dulcotte laquer on my knots, using a paint brush. Hope this is a help. Cheers, Peter
  6. Fantastic work Mark. You are giving this model the treatment it deserves. Thanks for all the great photos too! Peter
  7. Thanks, but keep in mind that they are dry fitted for now. I simply wanted to get the various spars together to show some progress on the masts. I have Longridge's book which stipulates the rake of the masts. Thanks for looking in. Peter
  8. A thing of beauty BE. Having started with Billing Boat myself years ago, I have often wanted to build this kit myself. I now have the modern version of the model in my stockpile of models yet to be built. The fittings have changed somewhat and the blocks and deadeys are now wood. But the plastic lion hasn't changed one bit! Seeing the photos of your Norske Love has definately given me some inspiration to start mine. Thanks for showing them off! Peter
  9. I have finally started work on the masting. Boy, there sure are alot of spars compared to my last model. The foremast went together with lots of trial and error. Mostly error. But once I established a system, the other two masts went together rather easily. All the masting is currently dry fitted so that they can be worked on. There is a ton of fittings that will be glued on piece by piece and careful planning is called for before the spars are stained and painted. I'm pretty excited about getting to this stage. Rigging is one of my favourite phases of the build. Once the spars are fitted, rapid progress can be made with the rigging. Here's a photo of the masts in place...
  10. Hi Alan, Thanks for looking in. As for the Workmate, here are some pic's of this handy-dandy unit. I am sorry to tell you that it is no longer made. I remember buying this in Duluth, Minnesota in the early 80's. I was sailing on the lakes at the time and the 3rd engineer and I went to a model shop in town. He was into scale railroading and I went to have a browse. The Workmate was on the shelf for sale and I snapped it up on the spot. It has served me well for many years and is very versitile. It clamps to the workbench (or not) and tilts and turns as necessary. It also came with rubber and metal inserts for the jaws to accommodate different materials. Seeing that it is no longer available, I will be taking much better care of it... Cheers, Peter
  11. Hi Burma. Thanks for looking in and pointing out the top and cross-tree holes for the shrouds. I have partially drilled out the holes in the cross-trees but have yet to do the same for the tops. But worry not because they will be modified. Lots of work yet to be done before they are installed. Cheers, Peter
  12. Hi JR, As a fellow Cutty Sark builder, I will definately follow along with great interest. Although our kits differ, the ship is the same and it will be of interest to me how AL have designed their kit. I am envious of their hull decoration, which I believe is much better than Billing. From the pictures of your shop you appear to be very organized and I'm sure you will do the model justice. I also noticed that you have some liquid inspiration on your shelves. Don't forget to refer to the artwork on the bottles as well as the books to gain insight on the construction of the ship. 😉 All the best with your build! Peter
  13. After a long hiatus from Cutty Sark, I have finally started on the masting and rigging. This is just a short update as to where I'm at with the project. The first step in this long and involved process is to fabricate the parts that hold the masts together, they being the tops and cross-trees. My old kit had these pieces marked out on sheets of ply which had to be cut out with a scroll saw and fret saw. I cut the pieces out with the scroll saw and then filed and sanded out the pieces to size. Due to the fact that the tops are less than detailed as marked out on the plywood, I opted to use them as templates. The templates were then used to trace the shapes on thinner sheets so that I could sandwich the gratings in between. I decided to use styrene for the grating as they are a uniform thickness and width and there is no sanding involved for such small and delicate strips. All will be painted white so there won't be an issue with the different materials. Here are some pics of the initial construction.
  14. Fantastic! What a great subject for a model boat. I really like the fact that Billing come up with designs for models that are different than the more conventional and have more relevance to the European model builders. All the best with your project. I will be following along! Peter
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