cdrusn89

Stbd side belt three complete to above (below) the cut-out. I originally thought there would be four rows of planks in band three that were "short", i.e. ended at the cut-out. However, I forgot to end the fourth row with a bevel so I added one more row and it seemed to work out okay. So here is the stbd side as it is today. Need six m ore rows. Slowly refining the methodology for tapering the planks.

Besides messing around preping for band three on the stbd side I got band two on the port side done. Again I had to slim down the filler piece at the stern to get the planks close enough to the bulkhead former so they will not stick out beyond the stern post. May still have some sanding to do there.

I sort of hate to admit it, but this is my first attempt at lining off the bulkheads for planking. Since I thought it would be better to walk before I run so I only did the area forward of the cut out on the stbd side. I followed the "conventional methodology" , measuring the length at each bulkhead and arriving at 12 planks as the number required at the widest point. Then I used the "radiating fan" (see below, this is from the Winchelsea monologue modified for 1/8" wide planks) and the tick strips for each bulkhead to determine the spacing required at each bulkhead. Then the marks on the tick strips are transferred to the appropriate bulkhead. Here are the forward bulkheads as marked with a test plank being fitted. (The clamps are holding band two planks on the port side.) I used the measurements to determine the actual plank width at each bulkhead, marked the measurements on a piece of masking tape with the bulkhead locations. (disregard the double "G"s. the right one should be "E" - it was late at night) I used a 120 grit sanding stick and the digit calipers to get the first four planks (those that end at the cut-out) tapered as specified. Not looking forward to doing this for all 60 planks (12 rows with about 5 planks per row) but I have not had good success using a knife (Xacto or other) to taper planks that are this narrow to start. Now for the acid test - do they match up with the marks on the bulkheads? Here are three additional rows of planking dry fit. Three out of four would make me MVP in either league of MLB. Time to get the glue. FYI, the planks were in the kit supplied bending jig overnight, no water or steam just sitting in the jig.

Band 2 on the stbd side completed. I also extend the keel to cover the stern post. I just grafted a piece in rather than try and replace the entire after piece. It will be in the shadow of the hull and I may add the fake bolts also so it looks more like the other joints. I had to make some pretty significant mods to the after filler pieces. Once I figured out where the planks had to go it became obvious that the filler blocks were to big and needed to be reduced so the planks were not making a very shape turn to fit into the stern rabbit. Now for some measurements - I will line off the bulkheads for the final planks so (hopefully) I can avoid a series of weirdly shaped planks where they will be pretty visible. Here is the stbd side in its current state.

The first planking belt is complete - 10 rows on starboard side and 11 on the port. I am one short on the starboard side as I ran out of milled 1/8" X 1/16" planks. Will add the additional row tomorrow after I mill some more holly. As it turns out (at least on my model) 10 rows extends to the center on both sides, the 11th plank is the first to end in the stern post rabbit. Speaking of the stern post - I can't find where the instructions address it. The rudder is chapter 8 but I can't find where the stern post is addressed except it is clearly in place in the pictures of the stern and quarter galleries (chapter 7) and not addressed in chapter 6. I did a dry install of the stern post and found that I apparently have cut the keel too short - it should extend to the end of the stern post. I need to get this fixed before I glue and more planks into the keel rabbit. I guess I will replace the entire after section - ugh. And here is the first belt, sanded with 100 grit and wiped with paint thinner.

Port side planking through 7 rows up (or down) from wales. So far so good.

Looks very nice Bruce. Hopefully I will be closer to your stage of completion when you return. I am still planking the hull.

I have truly started on planking the hull. I cut approx 100 pieces of Holly to 1/8" X 1/16" X 24" to use for the vast majority of the planking. I also cut several 3/16" X 1/16" pieces for the garboard strake and reserved some stock in case I decide to use some 1/4" wide stock to avoid stealers at the stern. I also built the plank bending jig provided in the kit and also build the plank bender that Chuck uses for the Winchelsea planking video. I did some "test" fitting on the port side and discovered that between bulkheads G and E that the 1/16" thick planking might not be thick enough to avoid at least a thin spot (at worst a "hole") so I cut some planks with some extra "meat" in them (.09" thick instead of .0625"). That created the problem of tapering the additional thickness down to the 1/16" going aft but I think I got that accomplished. I installed the two garboard strakes so I could make the measurements at amidships. I got 4.25 inches so I should have 34 .25" planks between the wales and garboard strake. Here is a shot of the two garboard stakes. I color coded the internal bulkheads to make keeping track of where the planking joints would be a little easier (I lose count easily). As directed in the instructions the garboard stakes end at bulkhead E. I "adjusted" the forward ends of three "beefy" planks so they would fit in the stem slot and then tapered them per the instructions (1/64" over the first 4"). Well actually I took the .125" width down to .100 "at the stem end. I bent them using the Winchelsea "hot iron" techniques and dry fit them on the port side as the second, third and fourth planks below the wales (one "standard" plank was already there per the bulwark planking instructions - so I guess than means a total of 35 planks). I marked each plank with where the taper to 1/16" had to be and ran that end through the thickness sander then tapered the plank to this thickness over the next bulkhead length. With four planks in place I added an additional plank of "normal" thickness behind all but the lowest (highest in pictures as hull is upside down) and sanded to get things a semblance of smooth. I decided not to use the pencil substitute for caulk on the hull planks as I was afraid that the near white Holly would show the caulking too much. Plus I believe that the "slush" that was used on the bottoms would probably have made the caulk more difficult to distinguish. So here is the port side with four planks in place, rough (100 grit) sanded and wiped down with paint thinner.

Here is the starboard side. The treenails are perhaps a little more "noticeable" than I would have preferred but this is with only one coat of WoP. Perhaps the additional coats (3 total) will dim them down a little bit more.

The moment of truth - first coat of WoP. Here is the port (non-treenailed) side. I am waiting until this is dry to do the treenailed stbd side because I had to turn the a/c off to avoid blowing air on the port side.

I finished the upper wales and their treenails and added the "Fancy" molding for the lower two sections. I marked the hull where the channels will go and avoided gluing the lower molding in those areas (thanks Bossman). I used walnut veneer (something less than 1/32" thick) in between the fancy molding instead of paint . This is similar to what I did on the ship's boats and on the lower wales where I used walnut for the second layer instead of painting them. On to the port side fancy molding and then the "moment of truth" the first coat of Wipe-on-Poly.

Treenails are complete except for on the upper wales which I am in the process of installing. I wiped the side down with paint thinner for the picture. I think the treenails will not be as noticeable with just WoP. I discovered that I had misplaced the fancy molding on the port side. The upper piece that spans the entire hull forms the side of the cap rail amidships - I had it even with the top of the bulwark amidships - the bottom of the fancy molding should be even with the TOP of the bulwark. Luckily the thin CA I used (sparingly) was relatively easy to get off the hull. Just needed some clean-up sanding to get back to a suitable starting point. I clamped a piece of 1/16" thick stock to the top of the bulwark amidships so the fancy molding will be even with the top of this piece. Here is the port side molding clamped in place awaiting CA. I will get this done once I get the upper wales on the starboard side (and it treenails) completed.

Pressing on with the treenailing. In case anyone should be interested here is a description of how I did it. The instructions are pretty good but since I am using Swiss pear and not staining the kit supplied basswood I had to adapt them in some areas. I picked the spacing for each vertical row of treenails from the plans and then replicated that spacing all along the hull. I had to be carefully not to put treenails in the sweep port doors and adapted a bit around the gun nports depending on where the vertical rows landed near them. With the locations marked along the top of the bulwark I placed a strip of masking tape vertically and used my laser level to make sure the tape was "vertical". Then I used a shape 2H pencil to mark where each treenail would go, approx 1/32" down from the top and up from the bottom of each plank with the bottom one offset about 1/32" to the left of the upper one. With the locations marked I used a sharp awl to make a shallow "divot" on each pencil mark. This makes it easier to get the drill started where you meant it to start. Do not ask how I came to this realization. Then I drilled out each hole with a #75 drill bit using my old Wen power screwdriver. Since it is rechargeable I find that one charge is good for about 300 holes so that provides a stopping point before muscle cramps become a serious issue. I use the awl to clean out each hole. After I get tired or the drill runs out of battery I sand the area with 220 sandpaper, vacuum with my small vacuum and then go back over each hole with the awl to clean out any remaining sawdust. Here is a section ready for filler. I use the Minwax wood FILLER (not putty) - Golden Oak color in this case. I squeeze a small amount onto the tongue depressor. I use the small chisel to apply the filler to the holes trying to keep it off the surrounding planks as much as possible. Sorry for the upside down picture - it is right side up in my photo file and app. And changing the orientation in the photo app and reloading it does not change how it shows here. Go figure? I use a chisel blade Xacto to remove as much of the surface filler as possible before it dries (which happens pretty quickly. Again sorry for the upside down picture And here is a section after the filler has been applied. I will sand again with 220 (and maybe 320) before applying the Wipe-on-Poly finish. Actually the treenails are more noticeable in the picture than in"real life" but it is probably the lighting in the shop or my aged eyes playing tricks. Anyway this is how I am doing the treenails. Certainly not the only way just MY way.

I am really tired of drilling holes for treenails. I am about half done on the stbd side and have been focusing on the port side to avoid more "holes'> So I completed the molding that runs along the lowest railing is place (see pictures above). I cut some short (1/2 - 3/4") pieces of 1/4" x 1/16" stock to act as spacers and used them to clamp the lower piece of molding, spacer and upper molding in place. Then I put drops of thin CA on the junction of the lower molding and the hull planking being carefully to not get any on the spacers. I used an applicator made from a sewing needle with half the eye filed off. When the CA dried (almost instantly) I moved the spacers around and applied more thin CA where the spacers had been. If I had been smarter I would have marked the locations where the channels are going to be since lower molding only runs between the channels. Eventually I figured this out (thanks Bossman) and cut out the offending molding before I got any further down the road. I am using walnut to "simulate" the areas painted black on the prototype so I ran some 1/4" wide walnut stock through the thickness sander down to a bit less than 1/32" thick. I applied walnut stain to get my stock a bit darker than it would be naturally and to reduce the variation in the color. At the moment it is just "wedged" between the two sets of molding. I plan to remove it and apply a couple of coats of WoP then glue it to the hull. Here is what the port side looks like at the moment. Now back to drilling treenail holes.

While continuing the seemly endless treenail hole marking, drilling, sanding, filling and sanding again (and again) I have been working on the port side (no treenails on the port side) too. I got the upper wales installed and sanded and the black strake so this side is pretty much done as far as the bulwark structure and planking are concerned. So here is the port side after a wipe down with paint thinner to approximate what it will look like after the WoP. The dark line along the center of the bulwark is the shadow of the upper wales from the overhead lights. I had to look after I saw the picture to make sure it was not something else (aka BAD!). So next for the port side is the "Fancy" molding. I decided to use boxwood for the molding as it is much easier to use the molding cutters on than the basswood. I used Artisia Latina cutters instead of the ones that came with the kit. I was going to use some 1/16" X 1/16" boxwood strips I had on hand but the Latina cutters are sized in metric (the double round - similar to what comes with the kit) is sized for 2mm X 2mm blanks. Rather than run the risk of the center "wandering around" on the marginally narrower 1/16" boxwood I cut some 2mm X 2mm blanks and they worked like a charm. The cutter generates a considerable amount of heat when you pull a 24" length of boxwood through. Enough to surprise me as I held one finger on top of the blank to keep it pressed onto the cutter. Anyway I cut the molding for the port side and left the setup in place as I will have to do the starboard side soon (hopefully). Here are two shots of the first run of the Fancy molding on the port side. I did not glue the ends down as it is not clear where the molding will end, especially at the stern.

Treenails are not much fun. Especially if you do not carefully read the instructions on the product you choose to fill the holes. Based on the color I planned on using Minwax "WoodPutty" ,in the Golden Oak color to fill the holes in the Swiss pear. However, this product (after you read the instructions on the back) "Will not harden to a sandable surface." I had used this product on a small sample board and apparently never noticed an issue. However, when I tried it on a section of the bulwarks it did not work out so well. I eventually had to drill out all the holes a second time and apply the Minwax Wood FILLER which luckily comes in the same Golden Oak color. So here is a section with the correct filler. And here with the filler sanded down The real test comes after the WoP is applied but I am reluctant to do that until the entire hull has all the treeenails installed (including in the upper wales which will be installed after the rest of the hull/bulwarks are treenailed). But here is what the sample looked like. (The left side used walnut filler which I judged to be too dark).

Although I put a piece of Swiss pear under the wales I have decided to use Holly for the hull planking. The near white color will (hopefully) not need painting to simulate the tallow mixture that was used before coppering. It will also provide additional incentive to do a good job on the planking since there will be no opportunity to cover up errors with paint or filler. So I replaced the piece of Swiss pear on the starboard side and started with Holly on the port side. I have to mill the 80 or so 24" pieces of Holly I will need for the hull planking but had a few pieces I milled as a "test" so decided to start with them. I can mill the holly to spell myself from doing the treenails on the starboard side. Here is a shot of the Holly on the port side.

Very nice Mark. An outstanding example. I can only hope mine turns out as well.

Starboard side bulwarks and wales are complete. I will wait on the upper wales until I get the treenails done - easier to keep things aligned (I hope). And yes I did notice that one of the gunport doors has come out - no idea where it went or when it came adrift. Another "project" to add to the list. I decided to use the same walnut for the "black strake" as for the wales (but 1/32" instead of 1/16"). Stern did not come out as well as I had hoped but it will "do". Working the port side now. Will do the treenails on the starboard side. To keep from going crazy I may start the stove or some other piece while working the treenails. I am having trouble imaging drilling the thousands of holes (not to mention sanding the entire bulwarks again) without something else to break up the job.

After some consideration I decided to add the four rows of 5/32 X 1/16" planking to the main wales before proceeding further on the hull planking. I used walnut material that I cut to the required dimension and had stained with walnut Minwax stain to get it closer to black. I am not sure what planet I thought I lived on that would allow me to just glue these pieces on over the basswood and be "done". Obviously there is some (in places a good bit) of sanding that had to be done to get the walnut pieces to conform to the underlying planks. I am now on the fence about whether to add the walnut stain or just go to the WoP now that I have the walnut back to the unstained state (after what seemed like considerable sanding). Here is the stbd side with the walnut in place and the rest of the hull protected by masking tape in case I decide to go with the walnut stain. I have pieces of 5/32 X 1/32 walnut (with the stain) ready to install as the "Black strake" but can go with Swiss pear as well if that looks better.

Bossman - Thanks, I was planning on using Boxwood as you did. I will carefully place the glue where it will (hopefully) make getting it off when the time comes. Following the instructions I added the three additional 5/32" planks at the below the two that started the bulwark planking. Here is the port side. I am trying to decide whether to add the additional wales planks now or wait. It is my intention to make the additional main wales planks out of walnut (and stained with walnut stain) rather than painting them black. I am starting to think it might be best to do that now and then get at least one coat of WoP on the entire assembly before doing the hull planking.

Bossman - Thanks, I was planning on using Boxwood as you did. I will carefully place the glue where it will (hopefully) make getting it off when the time comes. Following the instructions I added the three additional 5/32" planks at the below the two that started the bulwark planking. Here is the port side. I am trying to decide whether to add the additional wales planks now or wait. It is my intention to make the additional main wales planks out of walnut (and stained with walnut stain) rather than painting them black. I am starting to think it might be best to do that now and then get at least one coat of WoP on the entire assembly before doing the hull planking.

Thanks Captain. The Wipe-on-Poly finish does not make the Swiss pear as dark as the paint thinner does but it is certainly darker than the pear without any finish. Here is one of the ship's boats with pear planking and walnut stripe. Hopefully this is close to what the ship's hull will look like.

After almost four weeks of suffering from "model fatigue" I finally got back to the Confederacy. Plus I had to take advantage of the "nice" (compared to the summer) weather to get some outside projects done. So several hundred square feet of pavers, two outdoor swing assemblies and a couple of cans of paint later I find that working on the model has much more appeal than it had a month ago. When I left off I was almost done with the upper bulkwarkm planking on the out hull. So the first step is to get the last dozen or so pieces of bulwark planking installed. I was unable to duplicate to instructions edict to use the 15th stake of planking as the top of the quarterdeck bulwark. I planked above that (two planks in some areas and the marked where the top of the gun ports should be (10mm up from the sill) and then faired a line through those marks for the top of the bulwarks. Clearly there is not a single row of planking that marks the top but... I sanded both sides with 100 grit paper and wiped it down with paint thinner to see what it looked like and here it is: The blue tape was to protect the stem while sanding the bow planking. Next with the 220 grit and then a thin coat of Wipe-on-Poly to help define the plank rows while I struggle with the "Fancy" molding. I noted from Bossman's log that the lower row of molding has to be removed in the way of the channels so I think maybe I will wait and install that at the same time as the channels. I looked ahead in the instructions and do not see any "fatal flaw" in waiting. But then the fatal flaws you don't see are the ones you have to deal with... I am "on the fence" on the treenails on the hull. If I do it at all I will only do the starboard side so If I don't like the "look" I can turn it around in the display case.

So I have continued planking the port side to the top of the bulwak and around the quarterdeck gun ports. The instructions say that the 15th plank above the wales should form the top of the quarterdeck bulwarks. That is where I would have stopped but it was not tall enough at least at the forward ports to get the 10mm height at the gun ports. So I added an additional plank above the first three gun ports. Here is what it looks like. Clearly some trimming is going to be required. Here is what it looks like from the other side to get a feel for how far above the lintels the planks extend. The instructions say that another 1/16" lintel strip should be added if the 15th plank needs support above the single lintel that is already there. That is the case here as the two after ports have 15 planks. However, the three forward ports have 16 planks because 15 will not clear the existing single lintel. I am considering my options. Clearly I will not have a single plank that defines the top of the quarterdeck bulwarks. There will be partial planks at the top somewhere. This also makes the step at the quarterdeck 17mm high instead of the 13mm that is shown in the plans. I am moving on to planking the stbd side and will see how things work out on that side before deciding what to do here. The worst thing would be to have the sides different heights.