jim_smits
-
Posts
650 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
jim_smits got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Mechanical Solar System Build Log
Onto the first real stages of construction with the unpacking of the second week's items.
The main column support was attached to the bottom of the base plate with three screws. I'm very aware that the screws are brass and could be very easy to strip so very carefully threaded them in and then tightened with a hex key multitool.
Secondly added the main column to the main support, flush at the bottom and then fixed in place with a grub screw.
This gives the main support structure for the orrery. After this is the addition of the sun and planets and the various gearing mechanisms.
-
jim_smits got a reaction from Javlin in Mechanical Solar System Build Log
Repeated the boot polish treatment on the calibration ring and again happy with the results. The black really picks out the engraved details nicely.
-
jim_smits got a reaction from Javlin in Mechanical Solar System Build Log
First step I have decided to take, after looking at some advice on Sky at Night forum, is to use boot polish to colour the etched markings in the base plate so that they stand out nicely.
Bought a tin of black kiwi polish, and using my finger gently rubbed the polish into the engravings in the baseplate. Once an initial coverage had been applied I gently used a rag to wipe away the excess polish. I'm please with the result but I think it will probably require a couple more 'coats' to get full and proper coverage and get the best detail to stand out.
-
jim_smits got a reaction from Javlin in Mechanical Solar System Build Log
The package I picked up yesterday contained the first three issues and an introductory issue. Each issue comes with a selection of parts that gradually build up the orrery over the year, like the partworks Victory and Bismarck models.
All the parts are either solid brass or brass plate, with a few plastic washers and clips. So far looks really good quality.
The parts I have received are the baseplate and calibration ring, the central column and drive shaft, the Sun and the start of the drive section for Venus.
-
jim_smits got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Mechanical Solar System Build Log
Hello all,
I've just started collecting a partworks magazine to build a mechanical solar system, so I thought I would start a build log of sorts. Clearly doesn't belong in the ship build logs so I thought I would post it here in the Shore Leave section. Hope you all find it interesting.
Its a weekly magazine by Eaglemoss, although they send out batches of four weeks at a time, and should take around a year to complete. I picked up my first batch today.
-
.thumb.jpeg.fc5d633a7b34428fcf19419a73d56d55.jpeg)
jim_smits got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build
Thanks for the likes all.
Quick update! The foremast top yard is now complete and attached with a pin and the parrals. Remembered how much I hated doing the parrals on the main mast as it very fiddly and restricted.
Top gallant is now next target to be rigged up ready for permamnt attachment to the mast.
-
jim_smits got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build
Here you go master cog! 😉
Foreyard is attached and the main slings and trusses are in place as previously mentioned.
The positioning of the yard will be tweaked when the braces etc are rigged in.
Next steps now are to make the top and topgallant yards.
-
jim_smits got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build
Good progress and happy to say I haven’t totally forgotten everything!
I had already created the foremast yard. I just needed to get the metalwork primed and then paint the main coats of black.
Spent the next next few nights rigging up the blocks to the yard.
Next used length of 0.5mm brass rod to fashion four foot rope stirrups.
Finally to create the impression of the stirrups being tie to the yard I tied a loop of thread with a half hitch around the brass rod. Just been soaked with watered down PVA and waiting to be trimmed once dry.
-
jim_smits got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build
After a busy week at work, inevitably having to catch from a week away, I have managed to get back to the build this weekend.
Finished carving out the three top masts. Nothing more technical than a 15cm steel ruler, a heavy duty scalpel, some sandpaper and a lot of patience!
Fitted the top masts in place and have started work on the shrouds. Fore Top Mast shrouds have been fitted and almost finished fixing the lanyards in place. Just when I thought I has finished doing ratlines, I sense some more in my immediate future.......
-
jim_smits got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build
Hi all,
This will be my last post for a little while as I am off to Scotland for a weeks holiday with my significant other. I have however just about managed to finished the first set of ratlines. I still need to touch up some of the lines that aren't nice and taut but the vast majority of the work is complete. It feels like it's been a bit of a slog but it looks great with the ratlines added.
When I return it will be onto the top masts and stays.....
-
jim_smits got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build
Link the pair of blocks to create the pulley system:
I now have a double block and eyepin, and a single block and hook.
Thread the length of rigging thread through one of the holes in the double block.
Thread back through the hole in the single block.
Thread through the remaining hole in the double block.
Tighten the thread to the correct length required.
The eyepin and hook can then be painted black. Finally, the eyepin is glued into a hole in the bulwark and the hook is hooked over a eyepin glued to the carronade base.
Repeat another 35 times......!
-
jim_smits got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build
Carronades all installed! Deck really starting to look the part now.
I just need to touch up little areas. The mounting pins will need to be fixed properly to the sills and painted. The breaching ropes are going to be fixed to the deck and weighted down with a bit of watered down PVA glue.
After that I need to take on the tackle for the carronades. I had already rigged up the first two Carronades and had been asked about the process so I will follow up with some images of the stages I am following. Watch this space!
-
jim_smits got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build
Doesn't life just seem to get in the way!
Been a while but found a little time to get back to the build. Hopefully be able to post a bit more regularly again.
Still working on the carronades but decided I wanted to improve the figurehead I had installed. I didn't like the way I had it before so instead removed it, and reworked the fitting. Comments welcomed!
First image is a before, and second two afters.....
-
jim_smits got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build
Hello,
Quick update to add some images so far. The hull is pretty much finished! I have spent some time touching up paintwork and trying to make sure that all the required eyelets, cleats, holes etc have all been added.
I will now varnish the while lot. Still trying to decide whether to use my brush on Polyurethane varnish or use a couple of coats of a spray on varnish. Primarily I want to make sure that everything is as protected as it can be before adding all the masts and rigging.
Next step is to build and rig up the remaining carronades.
I have also shaped the first part of the bowspirit and also stained in walnut as described in the instructions. The colour is extremely dark and my first gut instinct was that it seemed a little too dark, but I may be just fussing over nothing.
-
jim_smits got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build
Last catch up to bring the build log back up to current state.
At the coppering stage at the moment. I have completed the main bulk of the coppering on one side, with just the gaps to the waterline, stern, bow and 'stealers' to complete.
I have also completed about 75% of the other side as well. Not looking forward to completing the gaps. wonder if I will have to flatten some plates and do some overlapping to ease the process. Of course this means I will need to remove and re-apply some tiles. Any advice?
Going to concur with Beefwellingtons build in that Cyano seems to be the way to go with coppering, as long as care is used and a couple of small drops spread over the back of each tile. Tried contact adhesive but found it a pain to use on so many smalll items and quickly switched.
-
jim_smits got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build
Last catch up images....
-
jim_smits got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build
....
-
jim_smits got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build
.......
-
jim_smits got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build
Pictures catch up...
-
jim_smits got a reaction from CiscoH in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
So that's what a beef Wellington looks like....!
-
jim_smits got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft
Jason - The Ballahoo/Haddock build will provide a change to the rigging on the snake and keep me fresh, although once my repairs on the Snake are complete, I will not have too many ratlines to complete.
The instructions are around the same level as the Snake instructions although obviously more simplistic due to the nature of the ship being built. Couple of minor improvements; the eyelets on the deck have been specifically labelled as such. They were very simple to overlook on the Snake. Also, the mast plans also show the cleats to be attached. These were only shown on the belaying plan for the Snake.
Eamonn - The build area has now been fully 'upgraded', there will be no more feline / heavy object relating incidents....!
Patrick / Sam - Good to see you both on board. Hope we can all learn from each other.
Today's progress has been to make a build board for the keel. The keel is not warped at all and is one less thing to worry about, Waiting for my Dremel to recharge and will make a start on bevelling bulkheads.
-
jim_smits got a reaction from Jonny 007 in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft
Hi all,
Today received my Christmas gift of the HMS Ballahoo kit by Caldercraft. In the Ballahoo class I have only found National Maritime plans for the HMS Haddock, so I will try to base my build around these plans.
Still at my folks so will not start the build until tomorrow. In the meantime I will post the kit pictures.
-
jim_smits got a reaction from Jonny 007 in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft
Right. Time for an update.
Channels are complete, so have moved onto to completing the last of the deck furniture.
Added the bowspirit post. It is drilled and pinned into the deck to add strength and ensure that the rigging does not cause any problems. Deck cleats are still to be added to the top.
Also put together the companionway housing. Spent a while cutting out all the separate parts and sanded smooth from 120 grit down to 320 grit. After dry fitting each part I added some small off cuts of walnut to the inside edges to aid fitting the pieces together.
To finish the housing, I stained with 50% light oak stain to bring out some grain and then very lightly sanded back and then added a coat of satin varnish.
Finally, drilled holes to insert 0.5mm brass wire to give handles on the doors and hatch lid. Hinges were added by drilling several shallow holes and using a blade to link the holes. Four small lengths of 0.5mm brass wire were then sunk into the gaps and fixed with a spot of cyano.
The build so far.
-
jim_smits got a reaction from Jonny 007 in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft
Started work on the channels.
The kit comes with deadeye strops that fit into a hole drilled in the channel notches. These strike me as not only a poor shape, having a flat profile as opposed to circular, but also the strop is 'split' and seems weak to me. So I decided to create my own deadeye strops from 0.5mm brass wire.
Firstly created a coil of brass wire by wrapping the wire around a 6mm diameter dowel. I then used a pair of snips to cut rings from the coil to use as the strops.
Each ring is manipulated to bring the ends together with a good edge and the tension holding the ends together, ready for soldering.
Added a little blob of silver solder and flux paste.
Used a butane soldering torch on a low flame to carefully solder the ends together to form a complete ring.
The ring can then be bent around a deadeye to form the strop.
I completed three deadeyes and strops, added the rest of the chainplate assembly and painted with primer and then black. Added the three assemblies to the channel and then glued the capping bar in place.
Glued and pinned the channel to the ship just below the capping rail and drilled and pinned the chainplates to the wale and touched up with black paint.
Just need to repeat another three times.....
-
jim_smits got a reaction from Jonny 007 in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft
Another quick update. (in the correct build log this time......)
Last for a few days as I am off camping in Weymouth for a few days.
Just a slight update on the carronade rigging. Decided to frape the loose thread around the tackle to leave a tidy finish, painted with diluted PVA and then trimmed off the excess thread. Might not be historically accurate to any degree but it leaves a neat and tidy finish I am happy with.
Our Emblem ®
