Dan Poirier
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Everything posted by Dan Poirier
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I joined the NRG on the 18th and updated my profile to select the "I'm an NRG member" option and enter my member #. But I'm not seeing the NRG logo on my posts, like I see on so many others' posts. E.g. at https://modelshipworld.com/topic/37210-are-there-better-tools-for-drilling-tiny-holes/page/2/#comment-1067451, I'm not seeing the NRG logo on the left. Is there something else that I need to do? -
I believe I can summarize the responses to my question, "Are there better tools for drilling tiny holes", as "Yes, there are many better tools, and everyone has their own favorite. Most seem to prefer HSS (high speed steel) bits with manual drills/pin vices, though a few use powered tools, at least in some cases. For example, per @wefalck, 'if you can put the part under a (quality) drill-press and hold it safely, this may be a good option for even the smallest drills. Otherwise, use a pin-vise or similar'".
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I'm just a few planks in on this model, and struggling. I needed to bend the bow ends of my planks down like hockey sticks to get them to lie flat there, and they wouldn't bend that much, so my first couple planks are sticking up from the bulkheads along one edge. On the fourth plank I just cut the bottom edge straight, ending the plank in a long thin point short of the stem, so that the next planks wouldn't have to bend nearly so much. I'll see today how well that works. One thing I did figure out. It's a lot easier to make bends near the eventual end of the plank if I leave some excess attached until after I've done the bending.
- 128 replies
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- vanguard models
- Sherbourne
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Welcome!
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After fairing the bulkheads, it was time to add the prow and keel: Then two inner bulwarks were glued around the false deck. I first shaped them with an electric plank bender. The bulwarks were slightly longer than needed at the stern, and so needed to be trimmed down even with it. One comment about the instructions here. I knew from other build logs that I'd be snapping off the tops of the bulkheads later (p. 25 of the instructions), so I didn't want to glue them to the bulwarks. As far as I could see, the instructions here (pp. 10-11) didn't mention it. So, thanks again for the build logs!
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I've finished the framework/skeleton that the outside of the hull will be built onto. Here are a few photos, but honestly, they look about the same as the (copious) photos in the instructions. One thing the instructions didn't mention or show was how easy it was to accidentally snap off the top tab from one of the bulkheads while installing the false deck. I glued the tab back on. (I had seen other build logs and knew I'd be snapping them all off eventually, so I didn't sweat it much.) The stern counter and transom glued in place. Next up: fairing the bulkheads, prow, keel, and two bulwarks.
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Bulkhead #17 has appeared again, between the pages of the model instruction book. Phew!
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I'm assembling the skeleton of the ship (is there a naval term for this?) and it's really clever how all the flat pieces of wood are designed to slot together in different orientations until the whole thing is rock solid. One minor problem: bulkhead #17 seems to have wandered off sometime between when I installed it yesterday and after I'd been working on the model for a while today. It's not on the desk, under anything on the desk, under the desk, under other furniture, in the laundry, in the Roomba's dirt bag... just gone. I'm working on making a replacement from scrap wood but it's a challenge. All these pieces have lots of slots to fit together with other pieces, and that leaves some narrow weak points where things keep breaking. I'll keep at it, but it'll be a lot easier if the original piece finally turns up.
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I'm starting on Vanguard Models' HM Armed Cutter Sherbourne. It's described as a Novice level kit, but it looks significantly more involved than my prior models, the three Model Shipways starter models. I took a few unboxing photos. The box has some nice photos of the completed model on the outside. Inside, by far the nicest set of instructions I've seen is right on top. There are what appear to be diagrams of the laser-cut parts sheets, as well as rigging guides. Fittings, "rope", etc. Long thin pieces and flat pieces 🙂 I'm looking forward to getting started.
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Next up is HM Sherbourne from Vanguard models. It's already on the workbench 🙂
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- Model Shipways
- muscongus bay lobster smack
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I've been making sails, doing the rigging, and finishing up odds and ends, and here's the result: There were challenges along the way, but as before, they made the completion more exciting.
- 37 replies
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- Model Shipways
- muscongus bay lobster smack
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Welcome!
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I'm currently using a pin vice hand drill that came in a set of beginner modeling tools I bought with my first model. It looks like this: It's okay with larger bits, but when I try to use something as small as a 0.3 mm bit, I have to use a wrench to get it tight enough for the bit not to slip. I don't like using tools that I have to force this way. That's using the collet with the smallest opening, as seen in the closer end in this picture. I'm wondering if I just need a better made instance of this same tool, and if so, how would I find one. Or is there a better tool for the job? I hope the vast experience on this forum can help me out.
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Looks good! I like the dark red paint on the bottom.
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When I built the dory model, I had trouble getting my frames assembled straight. Maybe because I didn't notice the printed patterns were not quite to scale? Your post makes me realize that open boat models like this dory are really pretty challenging to get everything lined up just right. I'm building a lobster smack now, which, having a deck, conceals a very solid skeleton inside, to which everything else is attached. That gives the boat a much sturdier shape than having to just attach all the exterior parts to one another.
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In previous models I've had to cut lengths of brass rod. I used a cutting wheel on a Dremel and it worked very well. This is the first time I've had to drill holes in brass, and I didn't find it easy. Trying to drill holes through the brass with a hand drill went very, very slowly, even after annealing the brass with a kitchen butane torch. I got impatient and resorted to trying to use the tiny drill bits in my cordless screwdriver/drill and that actually worked pretty well. I'll probably do that again if I can.
- 37 replies
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- Model Shipways
- muscongus bay lobster smack
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I'm enjoying your build log. I did the Model Shipways dory as my first model. Seeing the one you're doing, I'm thinking the larger scale might have made it easier for a beginner. When you praise your micro plane, do you mean a very small wood plane, or a Microplane (tm) brand tool of some sort?
- 55 replies
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- grand banks dory
- Midwest Products
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That is Plaid's Apple Barrel Matte Bright Red (20501E). I should say that after painting those seats matte red, I switched to gloss finishes. They look so much better (to me), in person if not in photos.
- 37 replies
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- Model Shipways
- muscongus bay lobster smack
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The boat is now painted, and work continues. The traveler, tiller, fairleads (eyebolts in the deck beside the cabin). The trailboards on either side of the beakhead. The bowsprit, which had to be rounded. The chainplates. For this model, they had to be made from a strip of brass. The cleats were provided, but needed painting. The mast was constructed by gluing together two laser-cut pieces, then trimming down the resulting long stick with a rectangular cross-section to a round tapered stick. The mast fittings included mast hoops, made from thick copper wire, some ring bolts, and two stop cleats, which were further trimmed after this picture was taken. The boom and gaff were constructed similarly to the mast. Up next: sails and rigging!
- 37 replies
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- Model Shipways
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Looks great!
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If you contact support at ME and let them know parts were missing from your kit, they'll send them to you. I like how you're working out how to make things work.
- 61 replies
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- Model Shipways
- Norwegian Sailing Pram
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Welcome! It would be great if you could post something more here about the models you've worked on.
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It's past time for an update. I've gotten most of the deck assembly completed. Trimmed the protruding sheer plank down to deck level all the way around. Except that it didn't quite protrude everywhere, so I glued in an extra piece of wood to fill in the gap, then trimmed everything down together. Trimmed the ragged plank ends around the transom and smoothed everything. Installed toe rails. And rub rails. The fairleads are a bit rough, but there. And there's a Samson post (what a name!) Oarlock pads. The coaming goes around the back of the cabin. The cabin sides go similarly around the front. There are window openings, so I painted a couple of little scraps black and glued them inside. The wet well covers are glued on. The cabin bulkhead assembled: Cabin bulkhead and roof installed. And you can see here the black pieces inside the windows. The sliding cabin hatch and runners are also installed, but I seem to not have any photos of that. Next up: some prep work and painting.
- 37 replies
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- Model Shipways
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Hello! I hope you'll consider doing a build log as you work on your model.
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That hull looks so good! It took me two tries to get my hull even mostly straight. As I recall, I had to make some adjustments too in order to get the thwarts to sit properly.
- 61 replies
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- Model Shipways
- Norwegian Sailing Pram
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