Stuka
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First pair of planks on, I used the plank taper suggested by Craig. And then I will probably use stealers to balance eventual gaps on the stern/stem. This gap has me worried and its caused to my knowledge by my lack of sanding on the bulwark ears causing the pattern to stick out somewhat. Had some ideas to counter it as getting some wood filler on the bulkheads most affected by this gap. But it didnt turn out to well for me so instead i will just sand and use woodfiller and hopefully cover some of it in the second planking layer.
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I will look into it. Thanks for the advice again Craig. I will probably keep building as I see it now. But I dont have as much time on my hands. And I got other interests in modeltrains too.
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Thanks alot Craig for the advice, It clears up alot of my thoughts. I think I will just go at it even though I might have to compensate with some stealers. Makes me wonder how people plan out their planking with the use of no stealers.
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Hello Been quite busy lately im afraid, But hopefully things will settle down now for some time so I can get some progress going which have been lacking im afraid. I just sanded the remaining bulkheads and got my tick strip ready so im starting to measure the bulkhead lengths which im writing up as I go. Even though I have done one planked model now before I still get confused with where I should stop measuring the length for the stem (Bulkhead 1) area aswell as the stern one (Bulkhead 16). Marked in yellow I have the bulkheads themselves marked. The red area represents my confusion as if I should account for this area when tapering the plank widths or if I should just focus on the bulkheads themselves.? I was afterall hoping to read up some more before starting to plank this one as I would want it to become somewhat better than my Sherbourne. Most importantly I also want to better understand all the variables one should consider with the measurements for plank width on each bulkhead. Anyways plan is otherwise to now measure all the bulkheads and find out where the plank width decreases drastically compared to the full length one at 80mm (16 planks). From there I will taper the planks accordingly. I might also put up tickmarks on each bulkhead but since im unsure of how to measure the stern/stem as I previously stated I feel I dont yet understand it completely.
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Hello, Im currently trying to mend my inner bulwark that I glued on arpund a 1 week ago. In certain areas its not completely flush with the hull so im thinking of solutions like extra PVA or even filler. The few gaps there are are very small but I hope they wont pose a serious problem. Getting the pattern seated with the indicator line for the deck proved a little challenging as everytime it was correct with the deck the bulwark was off by the stern for example. But eventually I got it on. Think from here I will use wood filler and then advance to planking as im not really sure pulling off the bulwark pattern and redoing it would be of any real change besides maybe just offering an oppurtinity for me to maybe break the part by mistake haha. But if anybody with more experience think I should redo it I will consider it. Other than this smooth progress but slow due to my work schedule.
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Good job Dan, Looks great so far 👍
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I dont know how others approached it but I did no serving on the shroud lines. I only did some rookie "seizings" on some areas.
- 133 replies
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- vanguard models
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Thank you Ronald and good luck with your Sphinx!
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So Today I glued on the false upper deck. This was fairly straightforward although with alot of caution taken. I dryfitted the falsedeck around 3 times and I sanded the bulkhead ears where I saw resistance when I tried to dryfit the deck. Then I glued on and went for it pressing slowly on the points of tension with my thumbs carefully as to not break anything. It went pretty good I would say even though I did get some tiny "woodskin" that started to peel off in one spot close to the aft by one bulkhead. The damage in question very minor and no cracks or anything in the deck Before all this when I was brushing diluted PVA on the lower deck. I noticed this area that is discoloured and I might be overthinking this but since im not that experienced in wood. This isnt any rot or something that can spread right? You cant see a trace of it on the upper side of the lower deck so it seems small. Other than that smooth building so far 👍
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Thanks alot Craig for all the times you came with good advice.
- 129 replies
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Well one thing led to the next and suddenly I have assembled alot of bulkheads along with supporting bulk/ deck beams. I also glued on the lower deck. So far the Speedy is much bulkier than my Sherbourne and it keeps getting bigger. Not even all the bulkheads are attached yet so it will be exciting to see how big it becomes in comparasion.
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Now I dont know exactly what would be the accurate knot to use, But I personally took the Cow hitch from "Ashleys book of knots" for my Sherbourne. It looks like this.
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Assembling bulkheads is the first order of the day
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Back on the horse This is the 2023 special version of Vanguards Speedy which comes with some extras as copper plates and machined walnut blocks which look very nice so I hope my rigging can do them justice. Here are some photos from the content in the box, Now my workspace is limited so I couldnt fit all the material but here is most of it. Then we have the fittings The machined walnut blocks is another world apart from the normal blocks like that I got on the Sherbourne so im very happy about them. Entering this kit I now know how much time goes into just a little rigging and two ratlines. Therefore im sort of dreading it when I will eventually have to attach all the rigging on this one I suspect it will be quite a challange one which I hopefully can tackle. Now onto the building
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Hey Palmerit I wanted to get back to what I said earlier about the top thimble blocks being incorrect. After now having finished this model I will say I was wrong in that. The instructions are correct regarding the rigging so ignore my statement about it. I guess I must have been confused with something about it. So no need to worry as long as you follow the plan sheets all will be good 👍.
- 133 replies
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Finally Finished Did the bowsprit rigging, backstays and yard lines aswell as I today just finished the anchors knots which were not the best but works the part I guess. I had some trouble finding a good anchor knot due to the hawserope being very thick. But eventually I got something and it does the job. It has been a learning and problemsolving jorney definitely but now I hope I can transfer that experience onto me next project which is the Vanguard Speedy.
- 129 replies
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Thanks Craig, I did read the manual that watered down PVA glue is supposed to be used on the ratlines but I wanted to try CE cause how fast it settles. The downside is the marks the CE leaves on the knots so next time Il try the PVA solution.
- 129 replies
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Finally got the ratlines done Oboy for a first timer this wasnt hard but very time consuming. 7-8 hours it took me to get both sides done. That has me thinking how long it will take on bigger models with more ratlines like my speedy haha. Now I dont know if thats normal how long it took for me but I used CE on every knot so it wouldnt come undone. I can finally see the light in the tunnel as its Backstays, bowsprit and Ancor rigging left pretty much.
- 129 replies
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I have now attached the deadeyes. I had a little trouble with them as I had accidently wrapped the shroud lines before attaching them meaning I had to redo the deadeyes for one side again. Rookie mistake there. In other news it was fairly smooth tomorrow il attempt at starting the ratlines so let see how that goes. As for attaching the shrouds to the deadeyes I used a bent brasswire so each deadeye got the same distance of sorts. Then i put CE glue on the deadeye and wrapped around the shroud line before pinching it with a needle pliers. This technique worked pretty well but did have some troubles with excessive Ce glue sometimes needed. Got to work on my techniques.
- 129 replies
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More rigging has been done now. I wanted to make all the inner rigging done first before doing the shrouds as I thought that it will be easier that way. Its starting too look like something which Im happy about even though the small imperfections. Next up I believe is the shrouds which will be challenging I think but hopefully it goes well.
- 129 replies
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Okay the boom gaff rigging has now started I think it goes smooth. But some questions for you more experienced people there. Are you supposed to do a clove hitch at the end of these lines into the main bitts or is it just to glue the string and wrap it around? (Images will be posted for context.) Also i use tweezers like the following but I feel like I might need longer tweezers so what tools do you guys use? Other than that I feel like it has been more straightforward but a constant learning process trial and error sort of say. Example one of my blocks of the gaff boom was tensioned with the line but then lost that tension so now it looks the way it does. Nothing abit of glue wont solve I hope.
- 129 replies
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Easter season so I got time off from work. I assembled most of the mast now and added all the strings pretty much. For the Bowsprit triple 5 mm block I glued together 3 single blocks from another old Constructo Cutty Sark. Then I attached the bowsprit which I hope was not a mistake cause I have the rigging ahead. The mast assembly had some bumps here and there like getting the mast properly aligned. Mine is slightly off so its not entirely symmetric. Also I had some trouble figuring out a good way to attach the two 600mm strings on the yards. I did a newcomers attempt at my own seizing with some glue then I wrapped some string accepteble for this model but for future models I will try chucks guide on it. But progress has been nice. Feels good to not be stuck on every step again haha.
- 129 replies
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Main mast now assembled, Got some adjustments to do on the yards/spars. Then im adding the boom gaffs,
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