Stuka

Anchors with the supplied paperstrip is done, I just eyed the width and cut very thin strips with my scissor afterward I used CA gel on on the top side and just attached the strip. I then let the glue dry for like 2 mins before I applied glue on all other 3 sides and then I just "dragged" the strip and attached it as I went around the Anchor while cutting off the excess on the end. Now for the hard part. Doing the masts and rigging is a big challange for me. I have very little experience tying good knots etc so this will be challenging to say the least.

Nice work Palmerit, Im following partly of your log to build my mast on my Sherbourne too 👍. A question regarding the main mast the part that is 4mm on the 6mm dowel, That is just sanded down on the same dowel right? No part that is just cut and glued on seperately. Im juts double checking so I dont misunderstand or do something wrong here

Agreed, I just have been to lazy to look into my local hardware stores to find it, But it is the bettter approach for the future. This time I only used a sharp scalpel and worked my way around each corner carefully until eventually I could take it off by hand carefully.

Hello again Have been abit busy with some trips, also had problems with my car and now its the holiday season and all so have not done to much, I did also get a little discouraged because me gluing on the foregratings before the rope was attached and I was unsure of how to procede the best. But the other day I tried to carefully get the gratings loose with a knife and it worked. So now Im back on track again 🙂

Hello again I have now almost finished all the deck details, Just the ancors remain now pretty much and some additional black coatings., Fitting the swivel guns went very smooth and without trouble. However trouble began today when I was fixing the holes on the ancors. Not only did my ancor break during the assembly so I had to reglue the resin parts together again which went fine. But now as I was fixing the holes for the ring on top of the ancor one of the top parts just broke apart and is impossible to reglue. feeling a bit demorilised I took one of the spare brass keyholes on and modified it and after glued it on. acting as a holder for the ring so fingers crossed I can save this. Another less fun thing to say. Some mild frustrations are growing on my side with the instructions, about the foregratings that are supposed to be glued on with a thread through it. I again followed the instructions and a couple of pages before It says that all deck fittings are now to be added and glued I presume. Unless I severly misunderstood the instructions though when I read it I thought all of the deck fitting where supposed to be glued on and added when it said I should add them. Cause the pictures even show several before photos with all the fittings attached including this part that I have troubles with now. This is not the first time an annoying error happends even though I follow the instructions as told, Before it was with the pump dowel material which in the instructions wrongly state that 25mm of dowel is to be used per pump but in reality its only 15mm. Which means if you followed the instructions one mast is going to be 2cm short. I fully understand that these kits are developed by Chris alone I assume the instructions are written by Chris and somebody that helps him. But I would hope these instruction errors can be corrected for the future so rookies like me dont have to make these errors by just following the instructions cause it just feels very uneasy as if I cant trust the instructions unless I have looked through the future pages and all the plans to constantly double check whats written. I overrall love this kit and would still recommend it for a complete beginner like me but I hope the instructions can have a second look at them sometime and some errors corrected. And I mean nothing to try and put anybody or the model in a bad light im just trying to let some steam off with my frustrations as of now. I will probably take a break for today atleast on the build but I will finish it just need a little positive energy first 👍

Hello and welcome, I would suggest you post a build log with pictures and people with experience on the model can help you 100% 🙂

I am Swedish too and while I agree its harsh with the extra toll fee. In the end there is nothing to do about it and I still think Vanguard models are worth it even if I have to pay 1/3 extra Toll.

Welcome and Hello 🙂 I would recommend the Sherbourne as you will be probably less likely to break the parts of the Sherbourne due to the high quality of the material. Then all wooden ships require you of course to be careful and mind your steps but to my own experience I think the Sherbourne is forgiving. Finally I saw that you talked about a keel jig, For a ship like Sherbourne due to its small size I dont think you need one all the work I have done on it has been holding it in my hands or having it sitting in its build craddle so I wouldnt use money on that, Perhaps on a future much bigger model.

Thanks for the suggestion Craig, I will see how I will solve this issue 🙂

Alot of work has been done now on the deck details, Cannons have been assembled and painted, Deck details like the chimney, deck hatches, companionway have been glued down, and the million eyeholes which had my me fiddling for a long time have been mostly added. Along the way as I was drilling the dowels for the deck pumps I accidently broke two of the drillbits one of which is the 0,8 mm Im certain off. Probably just to me mishandling it and drilling to far in and then with forceful movements so that was unfortunate but I still managed so far with the smaller and bigger ones. An error that happend was that I blindly followed the instructions on constructing the pumps so I made them 25mm long each. however on an unrelated note I read in Palmerits build log that Chris stated that they should be 15mm not 25mm that leaves enough wood left for some mast later. Im not entirely sure what exactly is affected but some mast is going to be 20mm to short so I hope it wont be ugly. Painting the main windlass for the Sherbourne I didnt have any wood colour so instead I just did a mix from the grecian paint set with red and black to gain this dark brown colour. For attaching the rudder since the fit was pretty tight I actually put in PVA glue in the slots and then gently very gently hammered it in place using the wooden handle from one of the old files so It fits like a glove now 👍. In case anybody has problem with fitting the deadeyes inside PE-5 I solved it this way I bought these mini lockring pliers cheaply and fit them inside and just worked my way around to expand the loop. Then I just fit the deadye and using the other plier I gently closed it around finally I did atleast use a tiny bit of CA gel to make sure it wouldnt accidently pop out or something. Next step will be gluing on the swivel guns that I have prepared now for assembly

Hello Since Saturday, I have been painting the Gunwhales, swivel gun posts and timberheads black, precision work to say the least with my sometimes shaky hands. I also fit the stern transom rail and used some wood filler for the side rails after which I painted them black. After those steps I fit the bulwark rail which went well using tonnes of clamps 😁. Had to trim the rails by the bow by some mm or 2 for them to fit properly other than that no problems. Today for the first time I tried out my hand drill set that I got with the model and using it I drilled the holes for the gunport eyeholes having never used one I accidently drilled some holes through the entire bulwark (whoops) barely noticable though. Some time later the next step involved me attaching the 8 Cleats which was easy work using the tweezer but I gotta say wow these pieces are thin to handle. Added aswell the side channels with PVA after just a sanding touch. Finally I opened up my primer for the first use and figured I might aswell cover the entire side of the PE brass sheet so thats why I did I hope it looks good as long as the black colour later sticks im happy. Got one more side to prime in a couple of hours but thats work for the future🙂

More work has been done, added the gunwhales which I did using CA glue due to the fact I found no good solution to using PVA. Because if I had used pins on the gunwhales I feel that I might had just slipped and broken the piece. Anyway back when I added the first bulwark I did so without a plank bender or using a good technique, that resulted in that the curve to the bow became how to say it "uneven?" so the gunwhales dont fit correct by the bow but they still fit good so it wasnt a huge problem. After the gunwhales I used a tiny amount of PVA glue to glue both the swivel gun posts aswell as the timberheads. Then I today took an old 4mm plank and trimmed it and bended it with my electric bender to get that nice curve so then I could glue it on the stern board. Finally I carefully painted the stern side timers aswell as the plank on top of the stern board.

I have the speedy in my sights at the moment though, But Il see how things develop, Now that I started with vanguard models I feel reluctant to try another brand of models fearing that they are not up to the same standard, even though I wish someday to do ships of other nations besides the UK

Thanks Thukydides for the input, hopefully I will be good enough to do the Speedy as my next one 🙂 I see with all that experience you are building up I think your Duchess will turn out very nice. Also I agree on what you say about getting better on planking, I myself had to use quite some filler but if this model had not been painted over it had looked pretty bad so I myself must also get better at planking

Huh really? On Chris site its rated as a 3 while the adder is 2. Though of course I understand one shouldnt look blindly on the skill level on the paper. But I have also heard about the tricky bow planking for the Adder. Ovverall you are completely right im not gonna get anything new until my nice Sherbourne is finished but curiosity got the best of me so I made this post.

So as I have been now progressing with my sherbourne. Even though im far from done the thought has come to me whats next? So I am interested in perhaps doing Vanguards Speedy. But maybe thats to much in skill im not sure. Otherwise I have seen the Vanguard Brig adder or perhaps even the Amati/victory models Granado would be good? What do you guys think is a suitable second wooden model?

Thanks for the Input aswell Palmerit. I used the blue tamiya masking tape that Chris offers on his site. Perhaps I need better technique

Hello again So moving on I Installed the inner bulwark and spirketting patterns, The bulwarks I installed without any issue but the spirketting part closest towards the bow I had to trim some millimeters so it would fit the curve which after it was all fine. Today I sanded the top of the bulwark patterns in preperation for the gunwhales. I felt the sides with my finger to check for any bumps to make sure it would sit flush. Later I took a round file just like the instructions and did a small dent for the bowsprit and I hope it is good enough cause I dont know exactly how big the gap is supposed to be but I think this will be fine. Moving on I then installed my minisaw on my trusty Fiskars tool and sawed open the gunports which went without any trouble. Lastly I filed the sides of the gunports and the oar holes for which I used my minifiles. Having never used the minifiles before alot I used all the wrong files before finally finding the cube shaped one which did the job perfectly. So this is the result now, Im quite happy so far as this is my first ever model so Im not too hard on myself if a mistake happens along.

Depth markers added. I bought some actual loctite superglue Gel, which didnt run off as much as the other variant I had used for planking, The result was much better but still far from perfect. Some of the markers turned at the last second and set in with the glue so to late to fix. As for the painting on brass I had already started painting one of the markers with copper when I realized hey this might be the wrong way. Looking up ways to paint on metal I realised I should have used a primer. But I went ahead and did around 2 layers of copper paint on these brass parts so they looked okay. Now I know for the future though that a primer is to be used for better results which Is why I bought this water based primer I hope works. Also added the outer stern transom as I looked at some pictures this thing is to be slightly covered by the black planks running around the bulwark and I was unsure if I needed to sand it that much for a perfect fit. So I went ahead and did some partial sanding but not overly much then glued it on with PVA glue and used some CA for the tricky edges. Still have some edges left to fix though. Edit: When I did the painting the masking tape wasnt perfect especially in the tight spots around the prow and rudder area. This is where I had some paint bleed which I sort of helped with using a knife and carefully dragging it on the paint for some of it to fall off.

Hello Espen. Welcome to Msw and it looks like we are in the same boat as Im building the same ship as my first. As for the wood filler question since you are going to cover it in white paint I dont think it matters what kind of wood filler it is. I personally used Cascols woodfiller (pine). But you have made fast progress thats for sure 🙂

Hello Craig ! No worries, Life is life after all 🙂Thanks for the encouragement though means alot. Now the Cutter is coming along nicely its just alot of problem solving all the time but nothing I should not be able to solve.

Update So painted some 5 layers total and finished with the varnish and just added the main wales on each side. Using pins was very tricky so I slipped sometimes with the pins. Regarding the next step of gluing the depth markers I read that they are to be painted copper. So I assume I gotta buy a copper paint for them but im checking other builds to see how others did it.

Painting layer for layer by brush, Hopefully it comes up nicely, might thicken the paint though.

Question When Im painting the hull should I use Varnish before or after painting. Or even both?

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