Richard Griffith

HI Kimberly, this forum has tonnes of tips, plus your local hobby store should have booklets on how to build better ships.  You can also check Amazon, Ebay and Abe's books for reasonably priced books. 

My current build, Le Soliel Royal, is by Heller, a plastic kit but I have done much research to make it more accurate and to add (scratch build) missing items.  I also made my own sails out of paper and sprayed them with Tamyia paint.  Once this build is done, perhaps by the end of this month, I plan to post pix in this forum. 

For other work, Ships in Scale has a couple of pix in older issues (back to 2008 I think).  If you have access to older issues, i will advise which ones.

You seem to have an artist's eye.  Ships require that and perseverence.  If an item has a certain color, paint it before installing it.  Don't use CA glue on the rigging, instead, use diluted Elmers Glue All or Weldbond.  Dab it with a micro brush.  Look as pictures of ships to see what coloring they have, how they weather, the stains on the sails, on the bulwarks.  Above all, keep at it.  We all started with simple sticks, paper, then kits and we only got better at it with practice.  If you have the passion, you can achieve your goals.

Keep us posted on your progress, we applaud all efforts.

Duff aka Duffer

Hi Mark, for the strong of heart and steady of hand, try a small blow torch.  This is obviously dangerous to the rigging but it has seveal advantages-it removes dust AND fuzz, and is fast.  Don't use this on lanyards or tiny lines such as flag hoists.  Do practice off model.  Keep the torch moving at all times and keep the flame a few inches away. 

Yes, I have had to replace a few lines. 

I will have to try Overdale's matt varnish spray idea.

Good luck and keep modelling.

Duffer

Hey Kimberly, welcome aboard~!

I also use crochet hooks, in various sizes plus the hinged type on occassion.  I pick these up at tag sales (garage sales, yard sales) for almost no cost.  Sometimes I find good thread, even linen~!  Retailers and mail order firms sell various tools for rigging, plus you can make your own to suit your needs.  I like making my own as that keeps the cost down. 

This is a great forum, so share more of your ideas; others here share theirs, so we all learn.

For snipping lines, I have found a pair of scissors by Friskers (in Walmart) to be the best.  These have straight pointed blades about 2" long and cost about $11.  The best. 

What ship are you building? 

My current ship is Le Soliel Royal by Heller.  Others on the bench inlude D'Hlalve Main, Bluenose, Sir Edward Hawke and a peapod, all scratch builds. 

Persevere and enjoy. 

Duff

If you are using the Model Shipways kit/plan, then the scale is 1/48.  Perhaps the more prototypical way to attach the flag is to use a needle and thread.  Anti fray spray is a good idea. 

Good luck~!

Duffer

I am also fortunate in acquiring both books and I completely agree with Chuck's assessment: both are beautifully printed, have many excellent photos and the plans in both books are worth the price.  As soon as I complete the Soleil Royale, the Vulture, and d'Halve Maen, and perhaps Gib's Sussex, I will tackle this.  (Or perhaps this one before the Sussex...)

Highly recommended.                  Duffer in Middletown, CT

Yes, I also have this beautiful book from Seawatch.  Dr. McArdle did a very nice job, thank you.  I started it  by getting copies made of the plans and frames, acquiring and making clamps and waiting for my dogwood to air dry (it's almost ready) when along comes another book by the good Doctor about building a POF model of the 'Utrecht".  This a companion book to the Hoving/Emke book which I already have.  I expect the new book this week. 

I have already started a Swan class sloop by Antscherl/Hebert.  It has the keel and stem on the construction board, all jigs are made, all clamps too, and the capstan is completed.  The aprons are nearly ready for installation, then the framing comes next.  Before I get back to this, I have to complete my 'Soleil Royale' by Heller.  This is nearly complete except for the case, some back stays, lanterns and ship's boats. 

There are so many great models to build and so little time----ahhh.

Duffer

Hey Glenn, Mark's post about Greg's reference is excellent-there are many blade choices.  The best advice I can add is to try different blades for each job.  There are variables that make a definitive answer difficult: these include the saw speed, the feed rate, the tooth geometry, the hardness of the material.  After you discover the best combination, make a note of you blade selection, stock thickness and type of wood so you can duplicate it without additional experimenting on future jobs.

As for scroll saw features, try to get a saw that has a variable speed selector (a built in rheostat), a tilting table both left and right, and a decent blade change device (if the blade changing system is poor, you will tend to avoid changing blades).  All other features are secondary to these three (I am targeting us model ship builders with these comments). 

Have fun and let us know your progress.                     Duffer

Hi Paul, BE is correct in all respects.  I would like to add that Nepean Longridge suggests clove hitches at the yards for the bowlines (page 261, Anatomy of Nelson's Ships).  Further, clew garnets, tacks and sheets for the courses would be rigged and hauled to about 8' or so (full scale) of their yard.  Reefing tackles could be rigged, along with the leech lines and bunt lines as suggested by BE.  It is your decision, you be the artist.  Have fun.    

BTW, I am aware of two reproductions: 1962 in New Zealand and 1979 in Nova Scotia.  Would you have the AOS "Bounty?  This is a very good reference. 

Duffer 

Hi Fraser, as long as this item is not stained, then it appears to be purpleheart.  When newly cut, it is bright purple.  It is hard, dense and heavy, with high crushing, stiffness and bending properties.  Other names include amarante, guarabu morado, nazzaeno pau roxo, saka, tananeo and violetwood.  Spirit finishes tend to remove the purple color; lacquer retains it. 

The other suggestions, while good, appear to miss the purple color.  Padauks come from the Andaman Islands, Burma and Africa and have a more red brown color.  When these are freshly cut, they have brighter initial coloring, especially the orange of the African variety.  Cocobolo has more red and a strong figure.  Sapele resembles mahogany and its heartwood is pink when freshly cut, but darkens to a red brown or purple brown on exposure.

There may be a better suggestion.               Duffer

^{Thank you Dan for taking the time and effort~!  Part of the reason I started my own "Vulture" is your build-log (the main reason is Mr. Antscherl's bools).  When the server crashed, I was very disappointed.} 

^{My Vulture is on hold this year as I need to finish several other projects.  In spite to that, I have completed the building slip, the various squares, the stem, keel and capstan, the special clamps (cramps) and roughed out the framing stock (domestic pear).} 

^{BTW, do you have another project underway?  Thanks again and keep up the excellent work~!}

^{Duffer in Middletown, CT (USA)}

As others have stated, weathering is subjective and personal.  Since you plan to weather, you need to study photos, paintings, and other models to determine the type and amount of wreathing.  Remember, you are the artist and you decide what effect you want.  As to materials, anything that 'sticks' to the model and has the right texture and chroma is good to go. 

BTW, Erik Ronnberg Jr. published an excellent article about paint and colors in the Nautical Research Journal 36 page 202 (Dec 1991) and reprinted in part in "Shop Notes II".  Mr. Ronnberg is an internationally reknowned modeler and researcher, whose models all have a subtle level of weathering,  I admire his schooner models at the Mystic Seaport and marvel every time. 

Good luck and have fun.                    Duffer

Hi Brian56, there are several ways.  The one I like is: make some shavings from clear white pine and soak them in ammonia for about an hour (you can dilute the ammonia 50% or use it full strength).  Wrap them around a waxed dowel that matches the inside diameter of the hoop.  Secure with rubber bands until dry.  Remove and glue, then replace them on the dowel again until dry.  Then slice off each hoop as needed.  Eyes can be applied.  Good luck.  Duff

Am building the Heller kit, and making numerous changes and improvements for accuracy.  However, I have not discovered the proper way of rigging the bunt lines on the topsails. Lees, Anderson, Broudriot, Steel, Biddlecome all have various pieces of information but none show me whether these had a gun tackle on each bunt to the deck, or a single block to the deck, or if the bunt line had some other set up.  thx.   Duff