yvesvidal

I decided to make two solid filler pieces for below the counter rather than using the two strips as shown in the manual.  For me, I find that I can better visualize the shape of the hull with the solid pieces instead of the two strips.  I also decided that to shape the fillers more easily I would make them up separate from the hull.  I formed the fillers from some scrap pieces of basswood and glued them together.  After drying overnight I traced the profile of bulkhead #26 on the back of the filler pieces to give me its basic shape.  Using a jig saw I cut the excess material away from the filler.  Then using my dremel I formed the rough shape of the filler.
 
 
 
 
Next I glued the roughly shaped fillers into place below the counter and finished sanding them.
 
 
 
 
I am finished with chapter 4 as per the instruction but I am debating whether or not to cut in the sheaves near bulkheads ‘D’ & 4.  I like how they look on Dirk’s Syren build, but then who wouldn't.  It’s not so much cutting the openings, that’s the easy part; it’s making the sheaves that concerns me.   Maybe I’ll try making the sheaves first.
 
  

Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2007
 
August 12, 2007 - Current activities - Part 1:
 
I have terminated the assembly of the 10 eight pounders guns.
 
In the following three images I have positoned them in the proper location just to provide an idea of the general outlook. Now it is not the right moment to install them, but, when this moment will come, I will have to provide the proper rigging for each gun.
 
I suspect that this task will be very similar to a nightmare but I live now in the illusion this will be solved anyway.
 
I am convinced that these "demi scratch built" guns are immensely better than the kit provided ones. See in message #67 the first image to compare. But the work necessary to reach this result is absolutely worthy of a crazy mind ....
 

 

 

Almost forgot.....looking for some second opinions.   I am thinking about painting the lower counter and leaving the transom natural.  Like the Surly contemporary model.  What do you think?   Maybe blue....but not this bright.   Is it too much?  Maybe leave it all natural back there?
 
You will also note how the Surly had the bulwarks cut down which is why the transom is a funky shape.  This was done during a refit long after the Cheerful was already gone.  Cheerful didnt last too long.   Maybe I will switch and call her the Surly....I am not feeling too cheerful today..
 
Chuck
 

 

Got the counter and the transom planked.  You may notice that I thinned down the outside stern frames considerably before planking the stern.  The first photo shows how thick they were before it was planked.  After the sides of the hull were planked the outside stern frames were strong enough to handle the thinning down.  It makes the model more historically correct.  The inboard side of the stern and counter will not be planked so I wanted to make sure it looked as authentic as possible.  That of course means that I must really clean up the inboard side between the stern frames carefully to prepare it for painting.   I will fill any cracks and sand it smooth and do lots of surface prep.
 
Now I can have some fun.  Its time to put the fashion pieces on and the wales and fancy trim.  This is the step that will make it really come together.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

The planking above the wales is basically completed.  Just a few more planks to add on the port side as you can see.  I didnt bother simulating the caulking between the seams where it wont show.  So it looks a bit weird now.  But once the molding and second layer of the wales is added it will look fine.
 
You can only see a few places with a crisp line for the seams.  This was done by running a number two pencil down one plank edge.  If I did this on both plank edges it would have been too pronounced for my tastes.
 
I will plank the transom and counter next at the stern.  Its an interesting detail that in case of a cutter like this you dont plank the stern counter first.   The transom and counter are planked after the sides of the hull.   The exposed end-grain of the counter planking and transom planking will be protected from the elements and rot by the fashion pieces.   You can see them in the profile drawing.  So you will not see any of the end grain from the planking.  The frame for the square tuck also does this for the end grain of the planks.  Its an interesting feature and I almost forgot NOT to plank the counter first.  It is something I am so accustomed to doing.
 
Before I plank the stern transom and counter I have some shaping of the outer stern frames to do.  I will post pictures of this as well because its an important feature to keeping the finished model looking accurate.  So far its coming together quite well without any real issues.  Its a fun build so far.  You can start to see the final shape of the cutter come to life as the planking progresses.  I know the bulwarks look thick at this point but they will actually be thinned down quite a bit soon.  The outboard and inboard planking at the sheer was actually just 1 1/2" thick....once its planked inboard and out the final width will be just 1/8 - 5/32" thick at the most.   Closer to 1/8" thick I hope.
 

 

 

Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2007
 
I have made a lot of work in these days but, unfortunately, it is not so visible. It was concentrated on a lot of very small items. The rudder. Painting and mounting a lot of guns on their carriage, building and mounting some kind of containers for the iron balls, gun ports, and over all, I'm painting with transparent matt enamel the hull.
So, I don't have interesting pictures to show.
 
I've made also some researches about the ship and I have found some interesting pictures. I've discovered that my model doesn't match completely with the attached plans. I know that the vessel was rebuild several times, so, most probably, there is not a "right" plan or a "right" model. Or at least I hope, otherwise .....
 

 

 

 

 

Here we go.  The center keel along with the stem, keel and sternpost assembled. I’ve drawn all the reference lines on the center keel and bulkheads including the bearding line.  I cut the rabbit into the center keel using 60 grit sandpaper glued to a small piece of wood (3/8 x 3/8 x 2 inches). Now it’s time to prepare the bulkheads and square them up to be glued. I will be using Model Shipway’s Fair-a-Frame to help with this.

Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2007
 
Then, as last activity done, I have started to paint the lower part of the hull. In the attached image the area below the blue line.
 
I the past the area was coated with danish oil that now is totally dry. In this area I don't foresee further activities, with the exception of the installation of the rudder.
So, in my mind, it was time to do something. I used then a transparent matt varnish with two main objectives:
1) fill as much as possible the invisible slits (I hope this is the right word)
2) protect the lower part of the hull from any possible accidental damage
 
Working on this activity I have done a quite strange experience. In practice I have applied the same paint, practically in the same moment, over two different types of wood, both coated previously with oil: 1) sapele and 2) walnut.
The result was that the day after the coat of varnish, I found it completely dry over the sapele wood and absolutely wet over the walnut !! It took four additional days to dry over the walnut !! I can't explain this fact. Has anyone tasted the same experience ?
 
Please note in the image the new stand. I had to build it when the keel clanper was no further usable on this model. It is very, very stable and, if needed, can be clamped to the workbench. Also the lateral wale reinforcements are clearly visible here.
 

Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2007
 
The next three photos show the work done in another area of the hull.
 
In practice I have installed the planksheer all around the sides of the hull. The plaksheer is done with a strip of mahogany of mm. 2x7 and, once installed, it lays not as a straight line, but as a very, very large curve. In order to install it properly I have adopted the following technique:
 
- I have applied on the surface to be glued, for the 90% the vynilic Pattex Express
- In the remaining 10%, at the two extremities and in the middle, I have used the Super Attack Gel.
- I have then positioned the plaksheer in the proper position with the large curve,
- I hold it for some seconds in order to have the cyan-acrilate gel dry and ... the piece was installed.
- Wait then for a couple of hours and the installation can be refined with sandpaper, ect.
 
The only exception is the two planksheers in the forecastle area. Here the curve was more sensible and it wasn't possible to force the strips in the right position.
Here the planksheer is made up of three pieces. I had to refine the results a little bit more but I am satisfied.
 

 

 

Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2007
 
As promised I'm back to show more details on the work done .....
 
Here I will show the results of my work in the stem area. During these activities I accidentally broke a piece of the stemson, just near the figurehead should be installed.
 
The reason of this accident was due to the wrong direction of the wood fibres, that made the piece fragile. To repair the mistake I had to:
- glue the broken piece
- plank in the right direction some strips of mahogany (1x5mm.)
- level the three strips in ramin (the quasi-white wood) and install three new strips over them.
After that the piece is fully repaired and strong enough. The only problem is that now it is two millimeters wider.
 
In the last photo it is possible to see also the now finished lateral reinforcements of the wales in the middle of the hull.
 

 

 

Next, I performed the second planking.
 
I used this kind of drawing pin to fix plank during PVA drying (the point diameter is smaller than that usual drawing pins):
 

 
and a wood ruler in order to bend planks:
 

 
Before filling and sanding.
 

 

 

 

 

 

08/31/2012: my son was born .
 
I paused the kit during more one year .
 
I performed the first planking of the hull without reading Planking Tutorial - Lining Off a Hull (cf. http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php).
 

 

 
So I need to use wood filler (with sanding of course).
 

 

Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2007
 
After the wales I am now working on some details on the hull.
 
The first image shows some kind of reinforcements that were installed on the vessel in the proximity of what should be the waist (the waist was not present on the S.S.Trinidad because she was a four decker, but it's very common in the two deckers).
 
I have now to glue the last pieces of these reinforcements but I'm now soaking the strips, so I need another one or two days before having terminated this activity.
 
The remaining images are some details of the bow, with the stemson in evidence. I'm working on the small deck where will start the bowsprit.
 
In evidence the two half cylinders near the doors. I think everybody knows what they are ..... (the toilets)
 

 

 

 

Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2007
 
June 5th, 2007.
 
Finally I have finished to install the wales. Both sides are done ... and as usually, the second side done is resulting the better. The importance of the experience ...
 
As you can see I have completed the lower wales in the stern area with the critical curve near the sternpost.
 

 

Hi Yves, while building this model I discovered for the first time this oil and I have always used it in my more recent models such as the St.Trinidad's Cross section and the Soleil Royal. I like very much it and I appreciate the fact that it is totally absorbed by the wood and, unlike varnish of every kind, you can continue to use the vinyl glue to add new things to the surface treated with it. Regards, Jack.

HI Bob! I didn't realise that it's only 15 days since I started. It seems a lot longer, for some reason. I guess that's what happens when it's such a tiny model, because things can be done so much quicker than in a larger model.
 
For what it's worth, this was only ever meant to be a side-line project while I prepare to move onto building the larger yacht, Symphony (as per my other build log). As it turns out, this has been a welcomed diversion because I've never built one of these motor yachts before.
 
All the best!

Well after a summer of sailing the real boat I got around to start the finishing of the model. For me the sails are a real problem which gives an appreciation of the art on full size boat sails.  So far I made three main sails and two jibs. The jib shown on the model will be the final one but the present main sail has to go. In the process I learned a few things and for me sewing in a hem to scale is too difficult . So I got the idea why bother to do that.  For the jib  I came up with the idea of outlining the sail in pencil on a suitable piece of material ( in this case the lightest piece of material I could get at Jo Ann fabrics. I dyed it first in coffee ( no cream and sugar ) that took away the all white look. I then stretched the material out on a soft drawing board secured the material with pins again drew in the out line of the sail using a soft pencil. I then took a suitable string close to scale for the sail bolt rope and pinned this to the outline.  Using Elmers and glueing 1 " at a time I cemented the string to the sails outline. I used a needle stuck into in a 1/8" dowel as  an applicator for the glue to the sail attachment. After all this was dry I simply cut the sail material close to the now bolt rope. This for me solves the  fraying problem and the resulting sail looks better than a sewed hem.
 
In the images shown now, the rigging is not belayed or secured so I can take off the main sail and bend on the yet to be made new one. So all lines including the jib look quite slack.
 
In the proposed finished display, the model has little wind and I'm trying make it look like it's all ready for the skipper and crew to board, weigh anchor ( placed in the display up short and off the stb. chock),  back the jib and sail of on the stb tack.
 
I'm hoping the minimal pedestal will give the effect of a boat afloat
 

November 06th, 2014
Let’s go on...
I spent some days in collecting all the parts to build the base-board. The copyright of its layout is 100% of JA: it works, so why not copying??
Another friend of mine, in the Company I work for, kindly cut the upright posts with a large circular saw to ease my work. Then I quickly assembled all the parts and immediately started gluing the frames. Well... not so immediately, because each bulkhead needed cleaning from paper formers, filing and sanding the borders and finally fine trimming the joints slot with the keel.
Anyway, the following pictures show the start of the gluing phase. I always had used LEGO blocks to ensure the bulkheads are correctly at a square angle to the keel, and this time was not different (thx to my son who lent me the pieces I needed !!   )
 


 
November 09th, 2014
3 days later, the job is completed. This is a minor milestone in the project, for me, so I shot lot of pictures in good daylight (I usually work at night in artificial light). Here are three of these shots: can you see what I wrote about the shape of the hull being so evident thanks to the large number of bulkheads?
 



 
I also tested the flow of the hull lines from bow to stern with a thin and long plank, and the result is really outstanding! No corrections to be done, perfect alignment of the frames and top-timbers: ready to start beveling the bulkheads before laying the planks.
 
But many other works have to be completed before, to fix the inherent weakness of the stern timbers and give a proper shape to the transom and bow.
 
Finally, I show the details of the masts steps and the bow timbers (maybe ‘hawse timber’ is more correct?)
- For the mainmast step I sandwiched two battens of the required thickness (2.5mm) between the keel and another piece of plywood, so that the width of the housing is exactly 10mm (that is the diameter of the mainmast according to Lees, the reference we decided to use preliminarly). This creates a squared housing 10x10mm, 50mm deep, where the dummy dowel for the mainmast fits tightly.
 

 
- For the foremast step I used the same concept, but the side plywood pieces are directly notched into bulkhead n. Va for a stronger joint. In this case the size of the housing is 9x9mm, again 50mm deep.
 

 
- To conclude, I’ve joined the top parts of the two bow fillers, representing something similar to the innermost hawse timbers, with horizontal plywood pieces: they have been glued in position and then suitably shaped. This fixes an error I did in interpretation of the required height for these parts. I still have to check this height with the top timbers of the bulkheads, but this is an easy job.
Here it is also evident that I already cut the toptimbers of the foremost bulkhead (n. VIIIa) with double width, to account for the subsequent beveling.
 

 
That’s all for today
FAM

Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2007
 
Three more detailed images of the starboard side of my Santìsima Trinidad.
 
In these images you can easily see that the whales have been coloured. Normally they should be black but I have decided to use a different method.
 
Instead of using an acrylic black paint I have used a powder for coloring wood to be diluted in water. I think its name is mordant but I am not 100% sure. This powder is available to simulate several kind of woods. I have choosen the ebony type. As you know ebony is practically black.
 
I have applied this liquid with a paintbrush for three times in order to fill as much as possible the color. Finally I have applied another color (mahogany) for a fourth time.
 
The result is a very dark brown, close to black, that I like very much.
Now I'm working in the same way on the larboard side.
 
 

 

 

Posted: Thu May 31, 2007
 
The starboard side of my Santìsima Trinidad is now completed. In addition to the wales, made with walnut, there are, in the topmost side of the hull, some veneer stripes of mahogany.
 

 

Posted: Sun May 27, 2007
 
And here are two other images taken in the same day. I like particularly the second one. Note that I have applied the danish oil in the lower part of the hull.
 
THE OIL ! I have to say that this oil is simply fantastic. Once it is dryed perfectly (3-5 days) the appearance of the wood is very, very nice.
 
Compare these photos with the same without the oil and you will discover the difference ! I'm honestly thinking not to use the varnish as final painting and, instead, to apply another coating of this oil.
 
Has anyone soggestions / experiences regarding this idea ? Any comment is well accepted.
 

 

The templates that I cut from Sheet #2 of the drawings worked out very well.  I marked the locations of all the gun ports and sweeps and then proceeded to cut and assemble all the pieces.  After installing each group of pieces making up the gun ports and sweeps I sanded them down to their rough shape.
 

 
 
After the sweeps were glued and dried I sanded everything down to their final shape.   This was a lot of sanding.
 

 
 
For sanding I used my dermal to take off a majority of the material, for the final sanding I used the sanding blocks shown below.  I had seen the red blocks in Marsares's Syren build and liked their shape so I purchased two.  The 20mm wide sander was very handy for doing the inboard side of the bulwarks, the 40mm wide one was good for doing the outboard side with its rounded surface.  The one I made from a cardboard tube with sandpaper taped to it also worked very well for the outboard side.  The emery boards and pencil sander I used to clean up the inside of the gun ports.
 

Thanks guys
 
Rusty it will be basically the same.  Except in this case the original planking expansion did show one drop plank at the bow.  I am basically replicating that draft exactly.  So I will include that drop plank and then divide the bottom of the hull into belts.   But only two this time.   Then I will line off the hull before moving forward with the planking.
 
Heres what the hull looks like after those two planks were added between the molding and the wales.  I only darkened the seams where it will eventually be noticed.  This helps if I need to tweak the placement of the second layer for the wales and molding.   Without the seams darker its easier to move the second layer without folks noticing.
 
You will notice the darker wales.  This was just a sheet of boxwood I had that was noticeable darker.  I figured what the heck,  I might as well use it for the wales.  Its going to be painted anyway.  It also helps me visualize the run of the wales as I plank above them.
 

November 01st, 2014
 
A few days later, this is how she looked.
 


 
I logged about 15 hours to get at this stage: all the bulkheads cut, the false keel cut, the bow fillers and transom timbers cut, all the parts finished, checked and dry fitted.
 
Some detail about my technique: I used 5mm thick poplar plywood, so had to use a dedicated version of the plans that JA kindly provided.
All the parts are hand-cut with a manual scroll-saw, as I’ve little room in my 3x3m workshop for bulky tools and machines (that will remain, anyway, my dream ). The bulkheads are cut for a tight fitting with the false keel, considering that the paper formers still have to be peeled away.
I used a stick glue for the formers, that is quite easy to remove but strong enough to support the stress of the saw blade.
 
The attentive observers could note that something is different from JA’s model:
- the most evident is the number of bulkheads. While JA decided to reduce it to the minimum strictly required for the building, I retained all the original 22 bulkheads that he had draught. The only missing is the #5, corresponding to the main mast slot. Even for the foremast slot, I managed to arrange a solution that uses the bulkhead itself as one of the side walls for the mast slot.
Reason for this? No real need, call it a personal fixation, or whatever you prefer: I like seeing the shape of the hull coming out from the very beginning. Even with my Pinco I used the same approach and doubled the number of bulkheads w.r.t. those required by Euromodel plans.
- Another evident difference is the fact that I didn’t use the two longitudinal beams, as I deemed them not necessary if the stiffeners between the bulkheads are used (that is my program).
- A third thing is that I did not use the joints strengtheners for the 3 keel pieces: again, to me these are unnecessary pieces because the building base holds the keel firmly and straight aligned until all the stiffeners are installed.
Well, same direction, slightly different paths...
 
When I had arrived at this stage, JA warned me that his plans contained two minor but significant errors:
the first dealt with the stations of the bulkheads along the keel, and instead of trying to fix it I resolved the problem by cutting 3 new pieces for the entire false keel.
 
The second error dealt with the height of the deck with respect to the top of the bulwark (is this the name?) toptimbers. As JA better explained in his build-log, the error was due to a misinterpretation of a drawing not in the correct scale. Too late for him, in time for me (thx JA!!). I recalculated the correct height of the deck, considering the thickness of the false-deck and deck planks I intended to use, and then I only had to remove 0.8-1mm from the top profile of each bulkhead. Easily done with the scroll saw.
 
The last difference for today is the way I arranged the transom timbers (hope this is the correct name): I joined them to the last and last-but-one bulkheads, to get a stronger joint. This will be a weak point of the structure until they will be joined by other pieces, which will be my next task.
 

(BTW, can you see how I moved 2.5mm aft the bulwarks without changing the original CAD plans?)
 
The transom timbers are shaped so that they form a curved line when seen from above and from behind, matching the transom shape on the plans (will be seen later).
 
That’s all for today
Ciao a tutti
FAM

Thanks to everyone for the likes, comments and support, it really helps to get over the tough bits.
 
 
 
Now if  it would only look good from this side of the room 
 
Joking, I am moving on with it now or I would never get anything done or finished.
 
Okay major milestone for me.  Deck is finally on.  As usual a few lessons learned for next time. 
 
One thing which stands out is the printed colours are all slightly different across the 3 different parts of the deck.  I can’t do anything about that so moving on without further ado.
 





 
Cheers
Slog