RVB
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Thanks for the info Phil. i’d like to try my hand on the Orel Ironclad. I have always been interested in them. Who makes it and where can I acquire one. Thanks again Rick
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Phil I’m using 0.5mm teak to deck the Picket Boat #1 and I covered over the atrocious deck on the Amati Bluenose with the same teak. It worked out great. The reason I asked is I am impressed with the card models you build and I am thinking of making one. All the Best Rick
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Phil -This build is very impressive! I’ll enjoy following it. I have a question since it is a card build for the .5mm needed thickness can you substitute .5mm walnut veneer to get the wood look? As always Best Rick
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I plan on planking all the decks with 0.5mm teak (the main the bow and the stern). The instructive narrative calls for lead pencil lines to remark the planks and then overlay with varnish. Sounds kind of fluky. Teak decking will look much better. I needed to make 1mm gunnel surrounds for both the bow and stern. I laminated 1mm basswood together with computer paper backing. I also used paper backing to bridge the area of the bulkheads that are prone to breaking to strengthen the area (the paper has a thickness of 0.07mm which is negligible. If the part does break the paper is flexible enough for replying in perfect alignment. ) The basswood sheets were then primed and sanded after drying. Printer copies 100% accurate of the laser marked basswood gunnels were attached and sprayed with a light coat of brown primer. After drying the gunnels were cut out and sanded and are put aside for later installation. Best. Rick
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Welcome Geordie Beautiful build!! Don’t under sell yourself you are already a skilled modeler and will be a key asset to our forum. I am anxious to follow your future builds. As always Best Rick (RVB)
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Building Model Shipways Picket Boat #1and it is just about devoid of rigging also.
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Welcome! Some words of advice. What ever you finally decide on don’t get overwhelmed with the complexity even an amateurs kit. Treat each small section of the build as a separate model. If you look at the entire build all at once you will get discouraged and it will end up like your first build (20 years and then some). I like Gregory’s suggestion of Model Shipways 3 ship combo by Midwest. I built the Lobster Smack as a filler while working on the Amati Bluenose. It was a fun and enjoyable build. It is classified as a level 3. Seeing your Roar Ege you can definitely handle it (by the way your build was very nice) and most likely enjoy it. It is also a nice looking model when finished and it doesn’t take a lifetime to build. What ever you choose there are modelers here at MSW that are glad to help when needed. Whatever—-ENJOY— As Always Best Rick (RVB)
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Welcome! I’m envious. You have unique qualities. I can’t imagine how many of us modelers when we finish a model have dreams of actually going to sea on the real version of our model. My dream may come true. I’m almost finished with the model of Bluenose and next year god willing I’d love to go to Nova Scotia and go out on Bluenose II. As stated before WECOME! As Always Best Rick
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Have raised anchor and set sail again. Installed the carved bow filler pieces port and starboard carved to the rabbit line. Then installed (cemented) the aluminum tube rudder Bearing. The 3/32 rudder shaft was inserted thru the tube rudder bearing down to the the recess in the keel to assure proper alignment before cementing the bearing.
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