kellrandy

Hi everyone!  Got the aft cant frames raised.  Please let me know if you notice anything amiss or incorrect.  I don't see anything too bad, and am pretty happy with the way it turned out.  I haven't done any heavy fairing on them yet, that's the next step, and add the copper bolts to the floor futtocks.  I am going to leave 20-23 or so a little thick until I get the aft square frames in so I make sure I don't take off too much.  After fairing the aft portion, going to move onto the fore cant frames.  Have a good one guys.
 

Hi everyone, been a while, but I have also been busy making the aft can't frames and they're ready to start raising.  Not to many pics this time around.  In one of my research books, it was stated that the frames were bolted with 1" copper bolts and also anchor chocks were placed in-between the futtocks.  I did the bolting, but not the anchor chocks on the aft cant frames as I couldn't see exactly how to cut them into the futtocks before I faired them in.  I do intend to place them into the square frames though.  Next up is raising the aft frames them moving on to the fore cant frames and hawse pieces, then fill in the middle.  Thanks to Guy and Daniel very much for the help with the angles, they worked out really well.
 
I'm all set to start raising them.  Have some good scrap pieces to make the support block spacers and some walnut for the gunport lintels & sills, and a set of braces for the top to set the correct width.  Until next time...
 

Hi all, back with a little bit more progress...   The first set is the mounting to the board to get ready for framing.  Since the build board is a pretty good size, I acquired some table legs with locking wheels so I could rotate it around to get to all aspects from any angle.  Also, the mounting is set up the same way with as little in the way as possible without compromising security and support for the keel, stem, and stern.  The second is the second go with the transoms, they're almost ready to glue in place, plus I have to remake filling #3, that's why it's not in the photos.  I broke it in half while I was tapering it, oops.  I learned quick not to cut the notch before I shape them, lol.
 
Build board mounting...













 
The transoms, test fitting...
 




 
Have a good week everyone!
 
Randall

Hey guys, just a little update on the wale planking. It it going surprisingly well steam bending the ebony. I do not have my steam machine like I used to, no where to set it up, so as a replacement steam machine, I am using a rice/veggie steamer

Hey guys, I'm back again. I have been working on the stern and have come to working on the windows, and I'm happy to say that they are complete. They're not installed yet, the photo is just test fitting with a little rubber cement to hold it in place. The inner "tic-tac-toe" frames are made out of ebony, the outer window frames are mahogany like the rest of the ship. Ebony will also be used for the wales when I get to that point. So here we go...
 
Every inner window frame was cut all at once with a little jig that you can see on the right in the first picture. That let me measure only once, and keep all pieces identical for all seven windows across the back. The outer mahogany frames were cut individually for sizing to match the stern timbers. The rest is pretty straight forward for the assembly of them. The side windows I've got to figure out because there are no plans for those.

Thank you, Mark, very much for the compliment. I really appreciate it and let's me know I'm doing it right. Now if I can fix my messy glue problem... lol. Thanks again.

Thank you, Mark, very much for the compliment. I really appreciate it and let's me know I'm doing it right. Now if I can fix my messy glue problem... lol. Thanks again.

Hey guys, just a little update on the wale planking. It it going surprisingly well steam bending the ebony. I do not have my steam machine like I used to, no where to set it up, so as a replacement steam machine, I am using a rice/veggie steamer

Hey guys, just a little update on the wale planking. It it going surprisingly well steam bending the ebony. I do not have my steam machine like I used to, no where to set it up, so as a replacement steam machine, I am using a rice/veggie steamer

Hey guys, I'm back again. I have been working on the stern and have come to working on the windows, and I'm happy to say that they are complete. They're not installed yet, the photo is just test fitting with a little rubber cement to hold it in place. The inner "tic-tac-toe" frames are made out of ebony, the outer window frames are mahogany like the rest of the ship. Ebony will also be used for the wales when I get to that point. So here we go...
 
Every inner window frame was cut all at once with a little jig that you can see on the right in the first picture. That let me measure only once, and keep all pieces identical for all seven windows across the back. The outer mahogany frames were cut individually for sizing to match the stern timbers. The rest is pretty straight forward for the assembly of them. The side windows I've got to figure out because there are no plans for those.

Hey guys, just a little update on the wale planking. It it going surprisingly well steam bending the ebony. I do not have my steam machine like I used to, no where to set it up, so as a replacement steam machine, I am using a rice/veggie steamer

Hey guys, just a little update on the wale planking. It it going surprisingly well steam bending the ebony. I do not have my steam machine like I used to, no where to set it up, so as a replacement steam machine, I am using a rice/veggie steamer

Hey guys, just a little update on the wale planking. It it going surprisingly well steam bending the ebony. I do not have my steam machine like I used to, no where to set it up, so as a replacement steam machine, I am using a rice/veggie steamer

Hey guys, just a little update on the wale planking. It it going surprisingly well steam bending the ebony. I do not have my steam machine like I used to, no where to set it up, so as a replacement steam machine, I am using a rice/veggie steamer

Ok, time for the wales

Hey guys, I'm back again. I have been working on the stern and have come to working on the windows, and I'm happy to say that they are complete. They're not installed yet, the photo is just test fitting with a little rubber cement to hold it in place. The inner "tic-tac-toe" frames are made out of ebony, the outer window frames are mahogany like the rest of the ship. Ebony will also be used for the wales when I get to that point. So here we go...
 
Every inner window frame was cut all at once with a little jig that you can see on the right in the first picture. That let me measure only once, and keep all pieces identical for all seven windows across the back. The outer mahogany frames were cut individually for sizing to match the stern timbers. The rest is pretty straight forward for the assembly of them. The side windows I've got to figure out because there are no plans for those.

Hey guys, been a while since I posted anything on my build, but I've been working on it quite regularly. I haven't been all that good at taking pictures of the progress though, sorry. So it's framed up, faired, keelson in place, and most of a strake of the lower deck clamps in for support while I faired the outside of the hull. Now I've started the stern. I think it's coming together ok. As always, let me know if you guys see anything amiss that I can improve upon.
 
Thanks,
Randy

Hey guys, been a while since I posted anything on my build, but I've been working on it quite regularly. I haven't been all that good at taking pictures of the progress though, sorry. So it's framed up, faired, keelson in place, and most of a strake of the lower deck clamps in for support while I faired the outside of the hull. Now I've started the stern. I think it's coming together ok. As always, let me know if you guys see anything amiss that I can improve upon.
 
Thanks,
Randy

Hey everyone, been a little while, but have been quite busy lately.  So I have all the frames completed!!  Now I'm in the process of cleaning up and getting things ready to start erecting them.  I also made just a couple of those clamps that EdT described in his Naiad log, plus some adjustable squares, and a homemade plumb-bob out of a fishing weight to use to make sure the frame is centered and level. I'm also going to be using fillers as I go.  I'll be adding in the fillers for the cant frames as well.
 
Here's the couple of clamps I made. At least for me, they were pretty difficult to make, but was able to do so and most importantly, they work! 
 

 
Finally, I read through my build and noticed that I hadn't really described how I do anything, and feel pretty bad about it. I just put up some pics of the end results, so below is a walk through of how I constructed the frames. From now on, I'll be doing these walk throughs for every major construction sequence. Also, my apologies to the community for not doing it that way in the first place, the way I believe build logs are supposed to be written.
 
I know most folks doing this build are beyond this point, but it might help some that may decide to pick it up.  Also, if anyone sees anything that I can improve upon for future builds, by all means please let me know what I could do better as this is my first scratch build and only my second ship, there are probably plenty of things I could do better or differently that will improve the outcome.
 
Step 1:
All pieces were cut a little outside of the lines, ends sanded to size.  Then they were test fit on the patterns to ensure the joints lined up properly.


 
Step 2: The blue-lined pieces were darkened on the joint ends with my trusty Sharpie marker. If you decide to go this route, test the marker on scrap pieces of the same wood before deciding to use it. The marker may bleed into the wood and the glue does change the color of the lines. Experimentation is the best method. Then the blue-lined pieces were glued making sure the beveling lines and joints match-up on the pattern and allowed to cure.
 


 
Step 3:
Once the blue-lined pieces have cured, the red-lined pieces were test fit and the ends were marked on the blue pieces. The assembly template was removed and saved for later. I used a scrap piece of MDF that I roughly cut the corners to accommodate the different curves of the frames and have plenty of room to clamp them.

 
Step 4:
The floor futtock template was cut along the dotted line where the first futtock begins using a hobby knife and the end of the 1st futtock we marked in the previous step was also cut. This portion of the template was removed, sanded a little to ensure the joint on the blue lined pieces was flush, then darkened with the good ole sharpie again.

 
Step 5:
The joint ends and bottom where it would be glued to the blue lined pieces were blackened as well and the first futtock piece was glued and clamped into place taking care to line up the joint lines again with the first futtock and the below pattern piece.  The previous step and this one was repeated on the rest of the pieces. and allowed to cure completely. After I got up to frame 15 or so, I switched my glue to hide glue (the kind you don't have to warm). I love that stuff now, very hard and holds extremely well, and has a long open time. I've had pieces pop apart without much pressure using standard wood glue. If you screw up as often as I do, then all it takes is some warm water, a few minutes, and it will release pretty easily.


 
Step 6: Once the frame has cured completely, then it is sanded just unto the outer most line on both the inside and outer curves. The keel notch was cut using a small jeweler's saw and cleaned up with a file. Then double=checked with the frame's assembly pattern.


 
Step 7:
The pattern was then removed from the frame, which I will probably regret now that I think about it. Up next was the bolting. According to my source of research, on this period of ship and size, the bolts were 1", which translates to 0.020" at 1:48. I had initially planned on doing the chocks and scarfs for the top timbers as described in in my research, but didn't have the courage to do so for fear of screwing up the frames, so I left out those details. The pattern of the bolting is the standard offset pattern. They were cut a little long to allow for a good end when clipped and filled off.  They go completely through the frame and are set with a dab of CA inside the hole. After that, they are lightly sanded on the fore and aft faces to clean them up a little bit, and ta-da!


 

Thought I would chime in since I haven't posted in a while.  I didn't think it was all too important to post each and every frame as there are tons, but I have made it to the halfway point.  I finally have the aft square frames constructed, 0-19. There is quite a color disparity between the more midship frames and further aft (lighting in the first picture makes it look worse than it is), but it is still the same wood (mahogany) if you're wondering. Thats what you get when you buy as you go with the wood I guess. Gives it a little character, so I'm sticking with it.
 
I am quite burned out with making frames so I am taking a break from those for a little bit to make some jigs and things I plan to use when I erect them. I've been reading EdT's methods for doing things in his Naiad and Fair American builds on how he erects the frames and I am building some of the clamps he described and the adjustable squares he uses, and altering my gantry a little.  It will be time well spent and hopefully keep the mistakes to a minimum. Better the prep, better the outcome I think. Once that's done, then I'll finish up the rest of the frames.
 
Until next time, happy modeling!!

Hi all, back with a little bit more progress...   The first set is the mounting to the board to get ready for framing.  Since the build board is a pretty good size, I acquired some table legs with locking wheels so I could rotate it around to get to all aspects from any angle.  Also, the mounting is set up the same way with as little in the way as possible without compromising security and support for the keel, stem, and stern.  The second is the second go with the transoms, they're almost ready to glue in place, plus I have to remake filling #3, that's why it's not in the photos.  I broke it in half while I was tapering it, oops.  I learned quick not to cut the notch before I shape them, lol.
 
Build board mounting...













 
The transoms, test fitting...
 




 
Have a good week everyone!
 
Randall

Ok, time for the wales

Thanks Mark for the info. I did some more research and found that on fifth rate ships, the width of the wales were around 3.5' (42"), so I'm assuming 6th rate were a little narrower fourth rate was around 45", 1-3 were around 54"-60". So going with that logic, 3/4" would be the closest to the actual width. So I've trimmed them to 1/4" at the touch and 1/8" at the butts and recut the angles for proper proportion according to my book, exactly as I cut them the first time. That gave me a width of 3/4". Yeah! Thanks again Mark for your help. You've helped me a lot with this build and I am very grateful, thank you.

Thanks Mark for the info. I did some more research and found that on fifth rate ships, the width of the wales were around 3.5' (42"), so I'm assuming 6th rate were a little narrower fourth rate was around 45", 1-3 were around 54"-60". So going with that logic, 3/4" would be the closest to the actual width. So I've trimmed them to 1/4" at the touch and 1/8" at the butts and recut the angles for proper proportion according to my book, exactly as I cut them the first time. That gave me a width of 3/4". Yeah! Thanks again Mark for your help. You've helped me a lot with this build and I am very grateful, thank you.

Ok, so I have another question... I went with the scale that's in my book, which was the narrowest of all three top an butt planking patterns which gave me a width of the wales (in four strakes) at 45". Which comes out to 15/16 of an inch. The midship cross section plan has them at 3/4 of an inch. Are mine to wide for the Triton? My book doesn't break down the widths for the wales versus rate of ship and I think the Triton is a 6th rate.