gieb8688

Hi, I am 34 years old and live in Vietnam. This is my first post on this forum, hoping to get acquainted with everyone. My English is not good, so most of the time I use google tools to assist with translation, hoping for your understanding.
When I received this kit I realized the detail part was too small for me so I zoomed in to 1:64 to make it easier to do. However, when I launched the Kit I realized that the thickness of the parts had changed a lot and I had difficulty checking their size. But I don't think this is important so here are my first results:
 

Thank you all for the likes and feedback, I really appreciate them.
After spending so much time and effort  it’s important to have unbiased opinions, and I’m happy to read that they are positive! 
And apologies for the delayed response. Busy days… 
As requested, I try to explain what I’ve done, but please bear in mind that this is my first sail model and those are my first sails ever, I am not, by any means, an expert… 
The raw material is modelspan.
It comes in two different thicknesses, mine is the lighter one, the only one available for me at the time. I have no experience with the thicker one, but mine seems to be a bit too light. 
The modelspan’s color is pure white, and it is almost transparent. That’s why I have painted it with non diluted acrylic colors. 
I’ve used pure white mixed with ivory white and a dot of black. The paint has been applied on both sides with a flat brush. 
At the end of the process, the modelspan is flexible and wet, and I let it dry by hanging it on a horizontal pole.  
Meanwhile, I have created a paper model for each sail, using the Campbell’s sail plan scaled to match the size of the model. 
Using the paper model I was able to draw each sail on the painted modelspan. 
I have added a margin around each sail. It will be bent to simulate the outer frame.
The seams line has been simulated with a sharp pencil. 
I have made some tests by gluing small strips of modelspan  as the real sails, but this dramatically decreases the flexibility of the sail, so I opted for pencil lines. 
Once all was drawn, I cut the sail and this is the result:
 

The edges of the sail are reinforced with 0.2 metal wire. It is important to straighten it as much as possible. After many tests I discovered (but surely many of you already know it) that twisting the wire makes it  straight and robust. 
Since I work almost only late evening/night, I can’t use electrical tools… That’s why I’ve produced a wire twister with my trusted Lego Technic, here it is:
 

 
The metal wire is then bent  so that it can follow the profile of the sail, including the cringes, as you can see here:
 

 

 
The edge of the sail is then bent over and glued with the wire inside using non diluted pva glue. 
Once dried, I opened the holes for the hank and I started to shape the creases on the luff side. I hope the image will clarify the process:
 

 
Now I use a temporary holding pole to hold the luff side:
 

 
With all in place, it’s time to shape the sail. 
I attach the pole to a chair and the clew to a mobile support, so that I can adjust the tension and the angle. 
A bag of  flour is used to simulate the wind pressure. Flour is soft enough to take the right shape and, if all goes well, you can reuse it at the end of the process to prepare e pizza and celebrate the event with the family! 
With all in place, this is the setup:
 

 
Sorry for the poor quality of the picture, but this was my first sail and I was a bit nervous. 
 
I then spray water on the bottom of the sail. The modelspan becomes soft and creases start to appear. Once satisfied I dried the sail with an air drier. 
The dried modelspan retains the shape of the small creases, while the metal wire helps to retain the overall shape of the sail. 
The temporary pole is then detached and the sail can be weathered. 
To do that I used graphite powder (obtained from a standard pencil) applied with a dry brush. 
Here you can see a clean sail on the right compared with a weathered one on the left. 
 

 
The hanks are made from a blackened wire twisted around a pole, and cut in small rings. The rings are then passed through the premade holes on the luff side, secured in place with a dot of CA gel glue and slightly opened. 
Sheets and relative blocks are also fitted. 
 

 

 
 
With the sail prepared, is now time to install them on the stays. 
The openings in the rings  are needed in order to let the stay pass through each ring. I literally hang the sail on the stay. Now I can close each ring (using flat pliers) with the stay inside, securing the sail. 
Tacks, hallards and downhaul are then fitted, passing the lines through the metal cringes on the sail.
The last ones are the sheets. I set the sail at the desired angle (a  bit more than desired to counterbalance some relax effect) and keep it in place with the help of a helping third hand. 
I then pass the running rigging on both sides. Setting them loose on windward and tightening them on the leeward side.
The tightened lines are then painted with CA glue, while the sail is kept in the desired position. Once dried the lines keep their shape and sustain the sail simulating the wind push. 
This last image is to answer rwiederrich’s question about translucency:
 

 
This is how they look in backlight condition. I’m not too disappointed.
 
That’s it… 
I hope it’s understandable even with my bad english. If you have any doubts, please write me and I’ll try to answer! 
Thank you all again for the feedback and support!

I thought about using some kind of silkspan myself for my 1/128 scale Great Republic but translucency was an issue for me...and hand painting every sail wasn;t what I wanted to do...though each of my sails is painted as well.  I used paper and even used a crimping plier I invented to emboss the stress points.  But at my scale it just wasn't necessary.
 
Your 1/96 versions are wonderfully made.   Here is my example
 
Rob

Sails! 
 
I have always had in mind to display my Cutty Sark under sails. 
A clipper with a full set of sails shaped by the wind is one of the most beautiful pictures I can think of. 
But when it comes to ship models, sails can easily ruin a fine job if not done properly. 
That’s why I set myself a number of targets when I started to make them. 
They should have been:
- light and thin;
- translucent;
- with no visible canvas texture, too small to be seen in 1/96 scale;
 - shaped by the wind, not standing still and flat from yards and stays;
- with visible creases near the clews and hanks;
- strong enough to withstand all the standing and running rigging tension, since I want to display them with all the lines needed.
 
After many tests with different materials and techniques, I opted for the modelspan.
 
And this is the result on the fore topmast staysail:




And here there are the jib and flying jib too:


 


 

 

 

 

 
All the sails are rigged with halliards, downhalls and relative lizards, sheets on both sides, one under tension (on the lee side) and the opposite slaked, and tacks.  
The bowsprit rigging is also completed, with footropes, metal covers for the rollers for the fore topmast stay.
There is surely room for improvements, but overall I’m not too disappointed, and I think I will keep on adding all the remaining 23 sails...
 
I hope you like them!

Hello Vladimir, 
thank you for your kind comment! 
I have almost no experience with enamel paint (I guess it was a typing error with "email paint", damn automatic corrector:) ).
I prefer to use acrylic colors and spray them with the airbrush. I usually use the standard brush only to highlight details with dry brush or recesses with wash and filters. For that purpose I usually use oil paints. 
Anyway, the base coat of Munz metal on my Cutty has been done by brush, due to a temporary problem with my airbrush. And the color was not diluted. 
There are two coats of color and the result is a uniform copper-goldish tint. 
The non uniformity visible now is created by oil washes, mixing green and blue in different percentages to break the uniformity. 
Please bear in mind that the enamel thinner used for the oil wash will wash away the enamel color below! This is another good reason for having an acrylic base coat and not an enamel one. 
Please let me know if I can help you with further details! 
And, by the way, is there a build log of your plastic Cutty Sark? I'll be glad to follow you! 
 
Update time! 
 
Fore yards progress:
 
Encouraged by the first test on the lower yard, I have adopted the same techniques for all the remaining fore yards.  
Here you can see the result:
 

 

 

 


 
The lower yard is already painted and fitted with blocks. Still a lot of work needs to be done, but they are starting to take shape! 
Please note that there is an error on the upper topsail yard: the jackstay is too short. I already fix the issue, but it is still there in these pictures. 
 
Thank you all for the comments and likes! 

Good day Bruma,
This picture is from Campbell’s book "China Tea Clippers"
I found it some years ago in free internet/ but saved only pictures without texts, nowaday only text available but I don't see drwngs for download anymore  
content://0@media/external/file/10058
 
 

CLASS!!!:)
Questions,
Why there are so much bandages?
Ah, I see - because of Longridge plans...
Campbell’s gives much less
and H.Underhill  also less...
Strange , why Longridge gives so much?hau masting and rigging clipper ship 17.pdf
 

Hello everyone! 
I would like to share some more updates about my humble attempt.
 
Fore yard. 
 
The yards proposed by Revell are one of the weakest points of the entire kit. They are overly simplified, so that it is almost impossible  to fully rig them in the proper way. Moreover, they present features which are completely wrong, such as the sheave at the yard end, which are centered and not set aside and incredibly bulky. To make matters worse, the plastic is quite soft, and they are prone to bending when force is applied. 
So I decided to scratch build them. 
This is an entirely new field for me, I have never worked with wood and metal in model making. 
The first big issue is to find a reliable source. Again, Campbell and Longridge show slightly different solutions.
I ended up making my own decision based also on my personal taste. For instance, Longridge presents metal bandages on the entire length, which seem to be absent in Campbell’s plans. I like them and I have modelled them (dumb choice: it takes hours to made them…). Other features, such as the upper topsail sheets, are not present in the Longridge version but clearly visible in Campbell’s plans (and described by Underhill) and I decided to include them. 
After a long study session, I started to model the fore lower yard. 
The starting point is a cylindrical wooden bar, tapered at each end using sandpaper and a hand drill. At the end of the process the shape was quite right and, more important, I still have all my fingers in place. Dimensions are taken from the scaled Campbell’s plans. 
Then I started the metal work. The first feature was the cantilever mechanism at the yard’s center. Here I made some compromise in order to have a stronger joint between the mast and the yard. Still I tried to get the overall shape right. This is the result:



 
With the first milestone achieved, I have started to reproduce the metal bandages. Numbers, positions and thicknesses are taken by Longridge plans. 
Next comes the jackstay. I drilled small holes on each band and fitted them with a hand made small eyebolt, the smallest of the entire build. Then, the jackstay bar is passed through them. They are made out of spring steel, 0.4 millimeters in diameter. 
Then, it’s time for the sheaves of the chain sheets. The rollers are made of plastic, while the central bar and the external cage are in metal. The  central bar is glued in place inside a predrilled hole in the spar in order to make it stronger. 
The lower yard is also fitted with studding sails boom and relatives supports. 
They are made of brass wire and small copper bands
The last features are the eyebolts for lifts, braces and blocks. Last but not least, the metal fairleads for the chain sheets. 
Here you can see details and a global view of the yard before the painting job. 



 

 
The entire process takes a lot of time, and here we are just half way: still need to paint and weather it, and fit all the blocks (wooden and metal ones). 
 
I hope you like it!

Anyone got suggestions as to the function of the long brown 'pole' just under CUTTY SARK name plate at the bow?

Sorry, the link to the model no longer works after one day. It appears only the Forum website. I take the risk of posting a few saved images and hope that this will not be seen as a copyright infringement in this case. If an administrator does not agree, please delete the images or the post.
 

 

 

 

 

(boy holding the rail) Sorry, having difficulty combining text and images. Anyway, these rails feature on most models I've seen, including yours, Marco.
It appears I was assuming these rails were present pre-fire. May be it was a mental confusion, as when I went back to my files, the rails indeed weren't there pre-fire. However, all kits seem to include them, Longridge includes them and they can be seen in several 'period' photo's.
Now I've given myself a brain fog. By including these images I hope you can see what I'm getting at?

I completely second that! 
All we surely know is that we don’t know enough. That’s why, without sure information, I've never ventured in major transformation of the kit. 
Looking for new evidence and getting to know the history of the ship is a wonderful adventure, investing countless hours to modify a shape that might turn out to be wrong, is just looking for mental diseases 😅
 
 
Updates time! 
 
Stepping the fore mast: shrouds, ratlines, fairleads, fore stay and fish tackle. 
 
As mentioned in the previous post, in order to complete the bowsprit rigging it’s necessary to fit the fore mast. 
After many dry fit tests, I decided to move on (not without a lot of apprehension), and to glue the fore mast in place. 
I decided to use the CA gel glue, it dries slowly, it’s quite thick, and it creates a strong bond when dried. 
Particular care was dedicated to have the right longitudinal slope of the mast itself. 
The angle should be (according to Longridge) 86 degrees. (85 and 84 for the main and mizzen respectively). 
Once the glue has dried, I have started to tie the shrouds. The distance between deadeyes has been eyeballed, without using dedicated tools. 
In order to balance the stress on the mast I have started from the fore shrouds, always going on pair, port and starboard. 
The lanyards have not been tied until all the shrouds were secured in place. In order to keep an even tension in all the lanyards, I have used hanging clamps, visible here:
 

 
And here a close up view:
 

 
The fore royal backstays are still missing. There are differences on the mast length between the kit and the Campbell’s plans (which are shorter). I still have to figure out how to deal with it and I think I will come back to this once the royal yard and relative sail will be ready to set in place.
After some days, once I was sure that the tension was even, I started to tie all the lanyards permanently. 
My first idea was to tie the ratlines only after all the sail has been placed. But I changed my mind. 
In fact, I would like to represent my Cutty Sark with full sails (except for stunstayls), with the yards braced on a beam reach. In this configuration the leeward shrouds are almost inaccessible. 
So I have started to tie the ratlines, here is a work in progress:
 

 
In the above picture the sheer pole is also visible. It has been glued first (again with gel CA) and then tied up. 
After hundreds of clove hitches, the ratlines were completed:


 
At this point, another detail needs to be added: the fairleads. 
They are made out of small deadyes (2 mm). I grooved the channel for the shrouds, glued the deadeyes to the shrouds and then tied them with small threads. 
This is the result:
 

 
These one are only the main fairleads, topmast and topgallant backstays fairleads will come shortly after. 
Another view of the deadeyes and the fairleads:
 

 
With the shrouds in place, I turned my attention to the forestay and to the fish tackle, both of them are visible here, in this horrible picture, sorry about that:
 

 
The hearts of the forestay and the triple top block of the fish tackle are both scratch built out of plastic. I wasn't able to find a small enough in commerce and since they are pretty visible I decided to build my own. 
The hearts are also visible in a picture in the previous post, just in case someone wants to see them better. 
The last detail is the cleat for the forestay. It is also scratch built, and it is a copper wire flattened at one end. 
 

 
Enough for today, as usual thanks for following along and I hope you like it! 

Cirdan, hi.
The 'Denny' model could be wrongly attributed, but the museum claims it is?
The Rennie drawing is fascinating, thanks for bringing it to our attention.
Somewhere I'm sure I read that the fore deck house was not there originally?
This photo shows a square forefoot?
 

In Eric Kentley's book on the Cutty Sark an original plan by John Rennie is shown on pp 36/37. Rennie was the chief draughtsman of Scott & Linton. The plan is housed in the Glasgow Museums Collection. I did some research on it in the net a while ago but with no result. So I cannot say, when it was discovered. As far as I can see the forefoot is not so much angled than the Underhill plan (and the "original" ship in Greenwich) shows. In this respect the Campbell plan (and the Revell kit) seems to be more accurate. But I wonder if this document was consulted for the recent restoration. 
 

Hmm...but I think this model is not the Denny model. At least it's not the model that is shown as "Denny model" in the NMM. 

Just came across these images of the Denny model, Scottish Maritime Museum....
 

The Tudgay painting shows them (stanchions + rails) white. As John Sankey [see https://www.johnsankey.ca/cuttysarkpaint.html ]  pointed out, such paintings were often not too reliable, but as Willis was the owner of the painting we possibly can assume, that it is relatively accurate.
 
It is hard to say, if they were made of brass at the Denny model, as the only picture published in the net is not a very good one. 
 
Both, the Tudgay painting and the Denny model show the Cutty Sark in her early days.
 
Denny model: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/1113791.html
 
Tudgay painting: https://artuk.org/discover/artworks/cutty-sark-194307#
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

As promised.......
 
1:96 single and 2 ball stanchions + railing wire + the 42 links per inch chain.
 

Thank you both for the information provided! 
Aside from the single page posted by Shipman, the entire site is worth a reading, here you have the direct link to the main page:
https://www.johnsankey.ca/cuttysark.html
There are many links along the reading, all of them are really interesting! 
One of them in particular catched my attention. It is about the painting as proper evidence. 
Here it is:
https://www.johnsankey.ca/cuttysarkpaint.html
 
It states that, contrary to what is shown in many paintings, the Cutty Sark has always had only three foresails. 
This was one of my many doubts, since many models and paintings showed four of them. 
Now I’m a bit more confident in my choices.
 
Now, some updates:
 
Anchors stowing and bowsprit rigging
 
I decided to stow the anchors on the side of the hull. 
The anchor release mechanism is completely scratch built using copper and steel wires. 
Here you can see the anchors in their final position:
 

 
 

The release bar goes through the side of the hull, alongside the cathead, and it ends with a curved handle wrapped around the cathead. 

 
More details are also visible here:
 

 
 
The images also show details not present in the previous updates: the standing rigging of the bowsprit in a more advanced state.
Martingale backstays, bowsprit guys, inner and outer jibbom guys are now fitted. 
I have tried to rig them at my best, again, in some places, small deadeyes were used instead of heart in some places.
Somewhere else I used small iron rings, similar to the one now used on the real ship.
 
Talking  about hearts I was able to create my own hearts for the forestay. They are bigger and so easier to build compared to the one needed for the bowsprit. 
They are made out of plastic, carved, and painted with acrylics and oil. 
Here they are along the process, nearby the rollers for the fore topmast stay.
 

 
And here they are in their final position:
 

 
Unfortunately the sheaves on the cathead are not well represented. They are not present in the kit and I stupidly decided to add them once the catheads were already mounted and it was not that easy... This is just another chapter on the endless story about how many details add to the kit. The initial idea was to build it almost out of the box but “appetite comes with eating”...
Aside from that, I’m quite happy with the result. 
 
In order to fit the forestay and the topmast stay, the mast needs to be secured in place. I will talk about it in the next update. 
One of the hardest things was to secure the topmast stay. 
They are a single line, which starts from the forecastle, goes through the post shave, runs up to the foretop, goes back to the starboard shave and down to the forecastle again. Balancing tension, holding all in place was a hard time....
Generally speaking, all this area was quite tricky, but also greatly rewarding!  
Finally, an image of the bowsprit almost completed with the standing rigging:
 

 
Foot ropes are still missing and the rollers for the fore topmast stay are not completed. The outer chassis is missing, but it will arrive soon… 
 
I hope you like it, and I’ll see you next update!

Much earlier in the log is a link to an important photo of the Cutty Sark:  https://viewer.slv.vic.gov.au/?entity=IE930286&mode=browse   
This may be one of the first modifications to her rigging after her days as a Tea Clipper (a relatively short period in her career due to the opening of the Suez Canal).   I found a photograph said to be Thermopylae early in her career (in a link from the Aberdeen Museum website with photos of her in many phases of existence all the way up to a shot of her being torpedoed), when she was rigged with four large sails on each mast and no extra yards.  I have doubts on this photo under sail (attribution wise) on a couple of points; There is  a 'triple' dolphin striker not seen on any other Thermie picture, There is no yellow rub strake where there should be one, There is an extra white painted strake below a white painted gun wale that the Thermie didn't have.  But the photo does show a common way to rig an early Clipper.  Many fine ships were rigged differently in each phase of their existence (the 'Big T' was bark rigged at one point), and I suppose that its fair to model a ship as she was at any phase ... there being no single "correct" configuration.  
 

Hallo Shipman,
 
do you mean this illustration in Cyril Humes Booklet "Cutty Sark. Last of the racing clippers" (sorry for the bad quality)?  
 

 
The source is from the Science Museum, so I think it refers to Longridges Cutty Sark model although only a unspecified clipper is mentioned. And the angled forefoot belongs undoubtedly to the Cutty Sark. 
But the device above the usual position of the windlass (don't know it in english) shows, that such a windlass or winch must be present under the forecastle deck. See the following drawings in Longridges Book:
 
 

 
 

Good day,
have some doubts regarding position ( under name plate)and the way of securing hearts/ (not deadeyes) of standing parts of the stays to the hull compare to the Campbell drawings and his notes on the drawings...
and position of the middle rail in the kit looks wrong?



Cutty Sark.pdf

Let's hope someone can tell us the proper name for this "spreader". I'm not prepared to admit the existence of a part of a ship without a proper name! 🤪
 
Time for updates: 
 
Ratlines and bowsprit rigging. 
 
The ratlines were a big question mark for me... I have never tried to do something similar before, and I tried different methods. I build myself a jig to make as many tests as I want, in order to find the best solution and to practice as much as possible. 
I ended up with the clove hitch. It is a time-consuming solution, but it seemed to be the better one.  
So after a lot of practice on the jig, I started on the fore mast. 
Many times during the build I tested for the first time solution and techniques on the fore mast. Sometimes there are no other options, but in this case it would have been smarter to start with the mizzen mast. There the eventual mistakes are less visible...
Anyway, with a bit of luck, I made it! 
And this is the result:
 

 
The distance between each line is in scale, taken from the Campbell’s plans resized to fit the real size of the model. 
I’m quite happy. My goal was to make them evenly tensioned, without distorting the shrouds. 
 
Next I started the rigging of the bowsprit. 
This area is quite complex. A lot of planning needs to be made in order to rig everything without going crazy…
I started with the inner and outher martingale stays and the bobstay.
The are chains by trumpeter, see the discussion above about the chains, they are the third one on post #61. 
The eyebolts on the lower side of the bowsprit need to be built too, they are not present in the kit. 
While working on the eyebolts, I also make the original ones a bit thinner, drilling a bigger hole in the plastic ones. 
The bobstay is a bit more complex: it has deadeyes, and it is made fast to the bowsprit with a ring.
I tried to replicate this feature, but it was not an easy task. I wanted to have the correct distance between the deadeyes, and so the chain needs to be cut of the precise length. 
It was an interesting process overall and this is the result:
 

 
The picture above shows also the martingale completely painted and the handropes and relative poles. They are not present on the kit, and they need to be added. 
 
Next I moved to the jib stay, the fore topgallant stay, flying jib stay and fore royal stay. 
Instead of starting to rig them from the mast (which is not yet glued in place), I started from the hull. 
They are attached by deadeyes and the innermost ones are under the bow decoration. Again it was not that easy to make them…  
New holes need to be drilled in the hull to fit the eyebolts and the location has to be so that the lines can pass through the decorations without zigzaging.
And here they are: 
 

 
The bowsprit is nowhere near the end, but it starts to take shape!

Thank you, Shipman! 
They seem to be quite small indeed. 

 
Kirill. I’m sure you'll be successful! 
I have just realised who you are by looking at the link in your signature and I invite everyone to do the same. 
Your spanish galleon is a true marvel, an inspiring work and an example of what can be achieved starting from a humble plastic kit. I’m glad to have you aboard! 
 
Some small updates:
 
Martingale and whisker booms.
 
I decided to try to improve those areas. They are quite visible and due to the restriction of plastic, Revell made them quite big and bulky. 
Replacing them was a delicate decision… After some tests I decided to go ahead, and I removed completely the original cleats and lugs. The new one are made out of copper wire, pressed where needed to obtain a flat surface. Almost all of them are secured by small holes inside the plastic part and then glued. Only the outermost cleats of the whisker are secured only with ca glue. I used the gel version, which is denser, and it dries slowly. I use the CA glue not only as a glue but also as a filler and the result is a quite strong bond. 
The following pictures show this two parts before and after my attempt to improve them
 


 
They are still unpainted to better notice the added parts. 
 
Please note that the catheads are still a work in progress…
 
For the same reasons I decided to make a new spreader under the bow (I’m sure it has a proper name, but I can’t find it)
 

Hello everyone and thank you for your great support! 
Kirill4, you are right: the chain shown in my previous post, the smallest one, has exactly 16 links per centimeter, thank you for dedicating your time trying to help me. I really appreciate it! 
They are indeed available around the world, but not so easily in the EU.  The problem is the customs fees, which can vary a lot and raise significantly the price. 
If anyone of you is interested in this kind of chain from the UK, here you have a link:
 
https://www.langleymodels.co.uk/awd1/index.php?route=product/category&path=207

 
But now, like any good story, I have my own dramatic turn!
Yesterday I visited my trusted model shop, not more than 10 kilometers away from my house. 
I asked them for such a small chain all the previous times and the answer was always the same: we have nothing so small. 
Well, yesterday I was almost at the point of avoiding the question, but in the end I tried and…
They have them! They started to resell them just some weeks ago, and they are a real small marvel! 
You can see them in this picture, they are the first one on top: 



 
 
The second one is the one you already saw in the previous post and the third is the slightly bigger one I already have. 
They are again from Trumpeter. 
They are not so cheap, but it is affordable for such a great look! 
As you can see they are as small as the previous one, but the shape is more like a real chain. 
 
So, after all this digression, I can continue the build! 
Thank you all again! 
 
And now, it’s time for some updates! 
 
Masts assembly and upper rigging
 
In this picture the masts are glued and painted. Only the futtock shrouds are in place. 
 
 

With the masts assembled but still nor glued to the deck I started to rig the upper shrouds, the stays and the backstays. 
 
Here the topmast shrouds are also visible. They are almost completed, only the free end of the lanyards need to be fixed in place.
 

 
And here a close up view:
 

 
All the lower shrouds are altredy installed and labelled in order to avoid misplacements in the future. 
 
In this last picture, the mizzen mast is almost completed, with the topgallant shrouds and realive futtock shrouds already in place.
Topgallantstay and backstays are also vible.  
 

 
Note the cap band still not modified, the final version is visible in one of the previous posts, the number 57. This shows perfectly how many times I have had to come back revisiting some detail when it was more difficult to get the job done. And still I'm satisfied by the the final result on the cap bans but now it is too late to add the needed details... 
I spent almost half the time of this build studying the ship and planning my next move but still I make so many mistakes and afterthought. 
But I’m enjoying the process a lot! 
Thank you all and see you next time!