gieb8688

Post 21
 
 
Fitting the Steering Box.
 
 
 
The Steering Box and related fittings present the most fiddly modification.
 
 
The kit has a simplified all in one bench pattern (51) which incorporates a knee at the stern, doubler, and aft thwart against which the steering box butts.
 
 
Muirneag differs both in the size and position of the steering box and the layout of the thwart, knee and doublers.
 
 
There is a fair bit of trial fitting to get it all to sync together involving making separate parts.
 
 
The first job is to get the position of the steering box fixed and to cut away some of the stringer to allow the aft thwart to sit down just below the level of the rail top.

7931(2)
A spacer is used to position the box the correct distance from the companionway.
 

7922(2)
The next step is to work out the run of the rudder chains thro’ the hull to the steering rods which protrude beyond the box.
This particular chain I discarded in favour of a finer version with 26 links per inch.
 
 
With that done the box can be safely glued down along with the aft thwart.
 

7934(2)
The tricky business of shaping and fitting the doublers and stern knee can then be done.
 
Why 'doublers' I don't know, they are for all practical purposes rails.
 
For the doublers I am using 4mm Pearwood strip, edge bent to suit the line of the stern. These need to sit flush with the top rail line.
 

7947(2)
Trial fitting the wheel, it always helps to have a scale figure handy.
 

7945(2)
The height of the wheel above the box has been reduced as covered in Post 13.
 

7975
The wheel is quite a delicate item, so the stem slots into a micro brass tube fixed in the steering box which allow for its removal.

7978(2)
It is a slightly simplified design with the spokes radiating from the hub simply bent into the vertical position to provide the hand grips.
 
 
In reality the spokes extended beyond the rim and the hand grips were either bolted or welded in position.
To replicate this at 1:64 scale would be a stretch too far for me.
 
 
I will leave the final cleaning up of this area until the rudder is fitted which is the next task.
 
 
 
 
B.E.
18/10/20
 
 

Post 20


 
Poop Deck and Fore-mast partners.


 
 Before these are finally glued into place it is worth test checking the fit of the Fore thwart and Mizen thwarts.


 
These should fit down on the stringers, and back to the bulwark. On my build I had to chisel the timberheads flush with the stringers to achieve this.


 
In reality the thwarts appear to be mortised thro’ the top rail, which is reflected on the plans and the representative models of Muirneag.

7848
On Muirneag the Mizen thwart runs as a straight board, whereas the kit provided version has a flared outboard end.

These extensions were removed for the purposes of my build.


 
The kit Fore thwart is a good fit to the mast partners.

7849
 The timberheads were cut away above the stringers to allow the thwart to sit fully down.

7852(2)

7850(2)
The Poop deck and Fore-mast partners are now glued into place, no issues with fit, and it is a nice touch that Chris provided a decking section below the partners.
The 8mm square Foremast fits perfectly between the partners and the mast stop.



7871
I decided to add the Foc’sle ladder which sits just inside the inboard end of the partners.

 

7870
Even with the mast lowered and resting on the crutch adjacent to the Mizen mast there is still access to the ladderway.
The kit has a separate fore hatch which seems a more practicable arrangement and one that is evident on the plans of other Zulu’s.


 
A question mark appears over the number and position of the partner knees on Muirneag.
The Underhill plan shows only two each side with a cleat between them.

This is reflected on the NMM model, but not the Gordon Williams model which has three.

The clincher is that a photo of Muirneag does indeed show three evenly spaced knees. (p288 Sailing Drifters.) but rising in depth as the partners get wider towards the fore part.


7901
Modified knees in place.

 

7907
The thwart is only trial fitted here.


I can now fit out the fish hatch.

 

7857
Removeable Partition boards used to arrange and distribute the catch in the hold to suit the trim of the boat.


7854
Net platform boards installed.

 

7855
This is as far as I can take the fish hold detail, and most of this will be covered by the nets.


7860
The companionway ladder can now be fitted.


 
I will next move onto the steering fittings.


 

 
B.E.
16/10/20
 

Post 19

Completing the rail fittings


 


All this work is best done before any of the deck fittings are put into place to give best access for drilling holes in the stringers.

 
I have now added the bolts that provide hooking points, and the metal plates to the doublers.

7833(2)
Metal bolts thro’ the stringer to provide belay points.

Cross pieces have been added to the cavils.

 
The Underhill plans show metal sheaves Port and Starboard for the Fore and Mizen halyards.


7826(2)
These are interesting features but I needed to work out an assembly method given their very small size.


 
One of the four belaying pins inserted horizontally through the stringers can be seen aft of the large cleat. For these I used the brass etched versions provided with the Alert kit but enhanced slightly.

 
 

7827
The sheave bracket was silver soldered together using thin brass strip, and the sheave is represented by a section of brass tubing.


7833
The completed items are only 9mm long x 1.5mm deep.


 
Most of this stuff wouldn’t be noticed by the casual observer, but it is on the plans, and if I can add it I will.


7845(2)
A final repaint of the top rail and I can finally move onto fitting the Poop deck and Fore mast partners.


 
 
B.E.

14/10/20

Post 18
 
Timberheads and stringers.
 
 
There are 98 tiny laser cut Pearwood timberheads to be glued to the bulwarks, all handed and position specific, so each one has to be removed from the fret and glued individually before removing the next.
 

7713
A tiresome business, but quite an ingenious method devised by Chris, and one that relieves the builder of the even more tiresome business of individually cutting small sections of square stuff.
 

7712(2)
It is also a nice touch to have the line of the stringers etched into the face of the timberheads.
 
 
The kit includes the major features along the bulwark, cavils, and cleats, but one slight puzzlement I have is that the cavils, provided as part of the timberhead set, don’t include the cross pieces.
This is easily rectified however, using pieces from the fret.
 
 
The Underhill plans show a wealth of additional fine detail which it is feasible to fit at 1:64 scale.
 

7715
One immediate modification is the replacement of a single timberhead at the bow with a double timberhead rising above the rail.
 
 
The Pearwood stringers are attached next having been adjusted for Muirneag specifics.
 

7733(2)
These affect the aft section of the stringers where the morticed positions of the large cleats are filled in, and sockets are added to the back side to take the side light brackets.
 

7730
 With the stringers firmly glued there are a series of infills between the timberheads, called doublers on the plan, these are topped with an iron plate and a socket to take a “ spring warp cage” whatever that is; something else to research.
 

7729
In this shot the cross pieces have been added to the cavils, and the blocks that form the doublers are in place behind the stringers.


7742(2)
The Stringer cleats are now in place but except for the foremost set are repositioned to suit Muirneag.

 

7739(2)

7740(2)
The timberheads now need to be sanded level with the rail and the fittings cleaned up. The final task will be to add a series of bolts through the stringers which act as attachment points for purchases and rigging, and holes drilled to take horizontal belay pins.


 
B.E.

08/10/20

 

Thank you Yves, Martin and John.


 
I am now at the point where I can relax a little and enjoy the fitting out.

 
@ Martin

 
Rubbing strakes are a pain and it does help to have something on the hull to guide them.

 
She would look quite impressive painted as evidenced from the splendid model by Gordon Williams.


He did have the best of both worlds as the Starboard side is unpainted with large sections of the hull unplanked to show interior detail.


 
A point of interest is that a bilge keel is shown which isn’t evident on the Underhill plans but which also is shown on the NMM model (George Macleod)
Old photographs would suggest that Bilge keels were a feature of fishing boats of the era.

I need to decide whether to retro-fit one.


 
The Zulu is in effect a hybrid design combining features of two of the prominent designs of the time; the Scaffie fishing boat (Sharply raking stern) and the Fifie (which had a straight stem)


 
In any event it became a highly successful design, favoured by many of those engaged in the business of fishing.


 
B.E.

Cheers Guys,
@ Glenn - Fun is not exactly how I would describe it😄
@ Bob - Glad you're enjoying it. 👍
@ Jean- Paul -  The Vallejo flat red really seems to suit the Pearwood. I hesitated before adding the Blue,  but it was a feature of the real thing. 🙂
@ Tony -  Glad to have helped,  but I'm not quite sure  how  the sequence relates to the wale and waterline on this particular model.🤔
 
Post 17
 
A step forward and a step backwards
 
 
Re-visiting the Fish hold.
 
 
I thought initially that I would get away with leaving the fish hatch open as is with some interior detailing.
 

7438(3)
The problem is that on the kit it was designed to be closed, and the mdf carcase is way over scale for the true thickness of the hatch coamings.

7659(2)
My eye wouldn’t let me rest so there’s nothing like a spot of Sunday morning de-construction to sort things out.
 
Not difficult to pare down the mdf, it is soft and comes away easily, I should really have done this in the first place.
 
I know some people don’t like mdf but for carcase construction I love it, its use is of great benefit to the serial kit basher.
 

7693(2)
Most of the interior fitting out can’t be done until the carcase is fitted.
 
 
Progressing the Poop
 

7706(2)
Boxwood planking has now been applied to the Poop deck, and a ladder was constructed for the companionway as the hatch cover will be slid back.
 
I spent some time mulling over what colour to apply to the planking.
 
The scheme indicated is black varnish, which explains the colour scheme used in the NMM model (George Macleod) and the models made by Gordon Williams, and Jan van den Heuvel, all of which provide a valuable reference source for my build.
 
I tentatively tried Dark Jacobean oak dye but it didn’t work for  me.
 

7690(2)
I finally settled on Pitch pine wood dye which provided a contrast to the deck and I thought suited the scheme overall.
 

7693
All the required fittings for the Poop deck of a Zulu are provided in the kit.
 
In addition to the Companionway these comprise the mast partners, the Foremast crutch, The Warp hatch and rollers, the steam Capstan, and the flue pipes that would serve the boiler and galley stove.
 
 
Modifications to suit Muirneag involve squaring the Mizen mast base (the mast is square section to just above the deck) and tweaking slightly the positions of the other fittings.
 

7708(2)
The major alteration to the poop was the repositioning of the companionway as covered in Post 12.
 

7705(2)

7667
In these shots the rudder is slotted into place; I think it makes a big difference to the overall look of the hull. I won’t however be using the simplified kit arrangement when I get around to fitting.
 
 
Before the Poop deck assembly is finally put into place I will attend to the timberheads and bulwark stringers.
 
 
B.E.
04/10/20
 

Thank you Guys for your supportive  comments and 'likes'
 
Post 16
 
Time to add the rubbing strakes.
 
The gunwale rubbing strakes are represented by two 2mm half round walnut strips.
On the real thing these are the gunwale a 7½” x 4½” timber faced with two half round iron strips.
The kit arrangement is not a bad visual interpretation of the wale.
 
The kit manual indicates that the gunwale strip is placed 4mm below the bulwark top. In practice this appears to follow the line of the top Pearwood strake.
 
Below the wale there are three rubbing strakes, (the beads) also faced with iron. These are represented by 1mm walnut strips.
 
I did think about replacing the strips with blackened half round brass strip but looking at old photo’s of Muirneag I decided the effort wasn’t worth it.
 
A key issue with fixing these strips is to get the correct angle of cut where the strip meets the stem and stern posts.
 

7596(2)
I use ca to fix the strip and ran a length of Tamiya tape along the top rail to protect it from any overspill.
I also have acetone and a small brush ready to wipe off any excess.

7599(2)
The second strip is placed immediately below the first which is less of an issue.
 
Lower 1mm strakes
 
The first of the three lower rubbing strakes is placed 6mm below the wale strip which allows for the Registration number to be accommodated.
I will use BECC 5mm self-adhesive lettering for this.
 
The second strake is set to be 4mm below the first.
 

7603(3)
 I use sections of pearwood planking to guide the position.
 

7609(2)
Sample lettering

7613(2)
First two strakes in place
 
I found fitting these strips a little tricky, for most of the length from the bow it is parallel to the Wale but towards the stern there is a subtle upward curve to the strip and a reduction in the width between the strakes to 3mm.
 
 
Note:
1mm Walnut strip is not the best material to work with and requires careful handling.
The kit provides only 5 strips, to meet the exact requirements.
No allowance is made for less than good lengths, and should the need arise to reposition an already glued strip, there is a high risk of breaking it.
A couple of extra strips included with the kit would be of benefit, I think.

7617(2)
The third strake only runs 140mm from the bow, which accords with the Underhill plans. Again I used Pearwood strips to aid positioning.
 
 
A final addition to the hull is an incised groove centred between the wale and the first rubbing strake and running from the stem to the Registration number.
 

7614(2)
The cut was made using scalpel and files and through masking tape to reduce any risk of the line running off grain.
 

7627(2)

7635(2)

7623(2)

7634(2)

7638(2)
I worked a day and a half fixing these tricky little beggars and there is still work to do re-touching the paint lines and cleaning up the hull for the application of wipe-on -poly.
 
 
B.E.
03/10/20
 

Post 15
 
A little more progress on the paint front
 
 
Adding the line for the watercut is fairly straightforward with the waterline marked.
 

7587(2)
Just requires some careful masking.

7595(2)
The Top rail is painted blue (Underhill Plans) which is a common theme running thro’ all the models of Muirneag, and I have followed suit.
 
 
I used Humbrol 89 darkened a little with Humbrol 25.
 
 
Far from the impression given by dark b/w photo’s from bygone years, descriptions from the time note bright paintwork was a feature of Zulu’s, and Fifie’s too I suspect.
 

7588(2)
The framing for the Poop deck is also painted blue, still dry fitted in this shot.
 

7590(2)
The false deck has now been fitted to the poop framing and will be planked with 2.7mm Boxwood strip.
 
According to the paint specification on the plan the roof was coated with black varnish.
Not too sure about this in relation to my model, I’ll do some testing and see how it looks. I do have some antique oak varnish which for all practical purpose is black.
 
I also have some antique pine which is a rich brown colour, which may provide a more aesthetic contrast.
 
 
The deck was also apparently painted with black varnish, but for me that’s a step too far.
 

7592(2)

7586(2)
 
The next step is to look at the Rubbing Strakes.
 
 
B.E.
01/10/20
 

Post 14


Marking the waterline and getting some paint down


This is probably the point to get some paint on the lower hull if for no other reason than to highlight any areas requiring attention.


I will be using the scheme I used on the Fifie;

red below the waterline with a white watercut, and varnish to the gunwale but where the top rail will be painted in a fetching shade of Blue, yet to be determined.
In reality the hull would have been painted black but it’s a pity to cover all that rich natural Pearwood colour.

 
In marking the waterline on my Fifie build I was singularly unsuccessful using the Amati Waterline marker but I resolved to try again having marked the relevant points at the stem, stern, and midships.

7493(2)
The hull was placed on the provided stand, higher end forrad, which gives the necessary drag to the hull.



It is then a case of tweaking the position of the hull in the stand until the marker pencil hits the marked spots on the hull.

I took the precaution of taping the stand to a block of wood to reduce any tendency for movement.

So far so good but any thoughts of one smooth sweep along the hull each side with the lines meeting at bow and stern were quickly dashed.

 

7516(2)
After repeated applications where the damned thing seem to behave like a demented etch-a -sketch, I did achieve what looked like uniformity each side, sufficient anyway to tempt me to tape it up and lay down some paint.

 

7518(2)
Unlike the Fifie, Muirneag is well endowed with rubbing strakes; I was interested to get an idea of how these came together on the hull and the relationship to the paint lines.

 

7503
To this end I used lining tape to represent the strips.

 

7501(2)
Several more adjustments of the waterline tape followed this.

 
A base coat laid down reveals areas that would benefit from a touch of filler.


7526(2)
Four sand/fill/recoat sessions later and it’s time to see how the line looks.



7538(2)
I am using Vallejo Flat red for the hull.

 

7530(2)
Tamiya tape is used to mark the position of the white watercut.

 

7450(2)
I used the kit proportions which compare very closely to the Underhill plans when converted from 1:24 to1:64.


 
I have now been actively working on this construction for only four weeks, but it feels much longer.


 
B.E.

30/09/20

Post 13
 
Detailing the Fish hatch
 
The Hatch depth on the Zulu kit is deeper than that of the Fifie so there is a little more scope for detailing.
Altho’ not a lot will be seen once the nets are in place, it is an interesting exercise to fit it out as far as possible. The idea is to give the impression that there is more there than there actually is.

7435(2)
The pierced boards of the hatch floor which allow the water to drain into the bilge are represented.

7438(2)
Atop these the framing and boards of the Net platform.
 
 
This is about as far as I can take it without a lot more chopping about which wouldn’t provide any greater visual advantage.
 

7442(2)
The net boarding partitions and boards will now be removed until the poop deck carcase is finally fitted.
 
Steering Box and Wheel
 
I’ve also been test fitting the steering box and wheel.
Note: the steering wheel stem is shown as pe part 29 in section 26 of the manual but is listed as part 27 in the parts lists, but it is easy to recognise.
 
When I test fitted the wheel in place it struck me that it looked a little high above the box. It is in fact 6.5mm which scales to 16.4”
 
I could not find an elevation shot of the wheel in place on either the kit plans or manual to give me a visual comparison.
 
Underhill’s plans however, show the wheel at a scale 9.5” above the box which at 1:64 scales to 3.75mm.
This puts the wheel at the level of the sliding roof of the companionway, which does seem more credible to me.

3554(2)
Muirneag model as built by Gordon Williams and now held in the Museum Nan Eilean, Stornoway.
This shot clearly shows the relative height of the wheel to the Companionway.

7457(2)
The difference is demonstrated here.

7453
For the purpose of the exercise I used the kit Poop deck roof which won’t be used in the build.
 

7472
This photo depicts the wheel on a reduced length stem which suits my eye much better.
 

7484

7486
 
All this stuff will now be removed to prepare the hull for painting.
 
B.E.
28/09/20
 
 
 

Thanks Guys,
..and Glenn, I think the scots are prepared to defend anything from anyone 😉
I hope so John, but the alternative would be to stand something big over the Fore Hatch which isn't there on Muirneag 🙄
 
Post 11
 
Getting down to decking
 
 
I made the decision to sand down the back of the supplied deck to allow for the thickness of the Boxwood planking.
 

7334(2)
The printed deck therefore becomes a second false deck with the advantage of having the printed layout to follow as a guide.
The first task is to lay down the Margin plank.
The proper way to do it would be to fit the timberheads and fit sections between them.
However, to do it this way would impact on the provided timberhead pieces which were designed to sit on top of the deck, all individually sized and thoughtfully etched by Chris with the line of the Stringers.
 

7336
I simply can’t be tasked to remake all 98 of these tiny sections so I will follow the kit arrangement.
Once the Bulwark stringers are fitted along the timberheads very little remains to be seen of either the timberheads or margin sections, so it’s not something to be overly concerned about at this scale.
 

7339(2)
A fairly simple job to fit the margin, I am using 1.6mm wide strip which bends readily around the bulwark. Only at the stern end does the margin flare a little which is covered by a section of tapered 2.7mm strip.
The planking begins each side of the centre line, and I have utilised in part the pre-marked butt shifts on the printed version.
One edge of each plank is marked with a waterproof black marker to represent the caulking.
I use a broad chisel Pilot marker pen.
On this particular layout there is no joggling involved which simplifies things.
 

7345(2)
Nearing completion.
 

7349(2)
Completed but in need of a good scrape.

7358(2)
A check to ensure that the Poop deck framing and Mast partners fit.
 
At this point I have also beefed up the support stand, knocked up from bits and pieces but it works.
The kit provided stand is a display stand not really suitable to work on the model.
 

7370(2)
This particular hull shape is quite slippery and a stable support is necessary to hold it securely for work on the deck.
 
 
B.E.
24/09/20
 
 

Thanks John and Dave, 👍
@Dave, mention of sweep ports, gives me the yips, getting them to look good is the bane of my life.🙄
Post 10
Thinking about the deck
 
I naturally tried the provided pre-printed deck, and was pleased to see it fitted perfectly without any need for  adjustment.

7331(2)
The scaling of the planking looks spot on, the Muirneag’s deck comprises 6” boards which scale to 2.25mm
 

7316(2)
It certainly looks good in place and it caters for all the major required fittings one would expect to find on a Zulu deck.
 

7319(2)ps
I note particularly the coal bunker hatch, the pump deck plate, the fore tack hooks, Warp hatch rollers, and the distinctive Horizontal wheel fitted on Zulu’s. Perhaps the most striking deck fitting is the steam capstan, also supplied with the Fifie kit.
 
 
 
I was tempted to use the deck which for reasons I can’t fathom seems to suit the Zulu better than the one provided with the Fifie.
However, the deck also has a cut-out for a Fore Hatch which unfortunately Muirneag did not have in this location and would be difficult to mask.
Many Zulu’s, and indeed Fifie’s had Fore hatches, The Zulu Fidelity of 1904 had one in the same place.
 
 
On Muirneag the ladderway was apparently placed inside the aft end of the mast partners. This seems an odd arrangement given that the mast when lowered would appear to restrict access to the ladder, but that’s where it is shown on the Underhill plans.
 
 
So, on the basis that I am building Muirneag rather than any old generic Zulu, deck planking it must be.
 

7329(2)
I will be planking the deck using 0.7mm x 2.7mm boxwood strip which is a good fit.
 
 
The margin plank which usually runs along the bulwarks in scarfed strips differs on a Zulu.
 
Here the margin consists of inserts between the exposed timberheads. I won’t actually be doing this, I will use the timberhead ‘extensions’ provided with the kit to sit atop a margin plank fitted around the bulwark. These are both handed and position specific to take account of the sheer of the bulwark.
 
One annoying aspect I need to settle is that the printed deck is thicker than my planking, and this has a relationship to the timberhead extension lengths, I need to sort this before I start.
 
I didn’t have this problem with the Fifie build as the provided printed deck was thinner, an exact match to the planking thickness, so there was no issue with the timberhead extensions.
 

7325(2)
This is also a good point the test how the Poop deck carcase fits in relation to the deck planking.
A little more head scratching before I begin I think.🤔
 
 
B.E.
21/09/20
 
 

Post 8

Completing the planking.

After a week of fairly concerted effort I am happy that my least liked aspect of assembly, the hull planking, is completed.

7183(2)
With nine strakes to go I added two strakes above the Garboard Plank.

From this point on it is simply a question of working the planks  both upwards from the keel and  down from the waterline.

The aim is to get the inevitable (in my case) final less regular shaped plank to sit on the underside of the hull curve.


7194(2)
One more to go.

 
During these last few strakes I re-check the planking runs and re-mark the tick strips several times.

7197(2)
The completed hull prior to sanding


 


Overall the supplied planking was satisfactory; a fair number of the planks did have an element of feathering on one edge, and some inconsistency in thickness along the length, but nothing that the sanding won’t sort out.


7206(2)

7207(2)
I use Pearwood dust sprinkled over pva to seal any slight gaps between the planking strakes.


7210(2)

7212
Starting to look better, but some fettlin’ still to go before I move onto the deck and the areas that interest me most on a build.

 
B.E.

19/09/2020

 

Thanks Bob, Rusty, and Glenn, the hull planking is a little more complex than the Fifie around the stern, but nothing like the complexity of  bluff bowed vessels. There is some variation in the thickness of the planks, but nothing that the sanding won't take care of.
 
Post 7
 
Planking continues.
 
 
I have calculated that 15 strakes remain at Midships, and tick strips were used to determine the degree of taper required at the forward and aft bulkheads.
Each plank from this point onwards will require both tapering and edge bending, the edge bending being related to the stern  areas.
Progress is slower now with each plank requiring several stages of operation.
 
 
I start at the stern, cut the stern post angle, and from midships mark where the taper begins.

6981li
With the taper cut, the degree of edge bend is determined.
 

6969
A combination of water and heat to make the bend.
 

6972
Test fit of the aft taper and bend.

6974
The plank can now be held in place, run along the hull, and the bow cut marked.
I don’t try to cut the exact line at this point and leave it a fraction long.

6977
From midships forward I work out the length and degree of taper at the stem post.
The natural inclination of the plank to rise upwards is evident.
 

6979li
The plank is still wet from cutting the taper in this shot.
Note - the start of the taper now lies fairly well back along the hull.
 
 
A final dry fit to check that the plank fully meets both stem and stern post.
A little bevelling may be required depending how the planks meet up. I do this using a scalpel blade on the top back edge of the plank.
 
I start at the bow and use ca to fix the first 50mm or so of plank and then pva up to a similar distance or so from the stern where I again use ca.
Drawing pins are used to hold the plank in place.
 
 
I keep one formed plank as a template to check the following planks as I work down the hull.
One advantage of the Zulu sharply angled stern is that if an error is made in plank length, it can be used further down the hull.
 

6982(2)
One strake shy of the waterline at this point.
Looking a little rough at this stage but nothing that final sanding won’t sort out. 🤞

6985(2)
The sharp upward sweep of the stern planking.

6988(2)
One more strake and I will re-do the tick strip to take account of any shift in the taper requirements.
 
 
The shipyard is now closing for a week.
Having deferred four holidays this year due to covid we are risking a trip to enjoy the delights of Devonshire. 🙂 🤞
 
 
 
B.E.
05/09/2020
 
 

Post 6.
Second Planking.
 
 
This begins with the pre cut Garboard planks, another excellent idea from Chris.👍
Head scratching over the Garboard shape and extent of its length is something that happens to a lot of modellers, me included, and I’m grateful for its inclusion.

6959
The supplied patterns are a perfect fit requiring only a slight bevel to the keel edge. I also heat induced a slight twist to the plank to suit the hull shape along the keel.

6938
I used pva to fix these planks as I limit my use of ca to the minimum.
 
Moving onto the Pearwood planking.
 
It may be that Chris has already amended the manual but for those following it literally there is a narrative error in instruction 14. That may cause confusion.
 

6902
References to the planking starting at the main wale position markings, which are shown on the gunport patterns, obviously relates to another model.
 
The planking I assume starts along the top line of the bulwark pattern as with the Fifie model, and this is where I will start.
I sorted thro’ the stock of Pearwood strip and picked out the best strips matched for uniformity and colour.
I am primarily concerned with the planking down to the waterline about twelve strakes each side, as this will be simply sealed with wipe-on-poly.
In the end I decided to go with the supplied planking for my Cutter Alert Kit (which I didn’t use) and which has overall more consistent milling and a richer colour tone.

6944
The first three strakes down were fitted without taper, the Pearwood strip easily followed the sheer line, getting a close fit at the stem and stern posts is the main consideration.
 

6942
Below the second strake and my normal peg clamps don’t work, and the third strake is the limit of my modified peg clamps.
 

6945
The fourth strake down required a little edge bending towards the stern, but no tapering, and thanks to the large hatchway there is purchase to use the larger clamps.
 

6950
The fifth plank down requires both edge bend and taper at the stern.
 
 

6956
Beyond this point the option of clamps is removed so a degree of ca will be introduced at the bow and stern.
 

6955
The pre-formed Garboard plank can be seen running along the keel line.

6953

6965
Pre-fitting I do fine down the ends of the planks at the bow to reduce final sanding.

6960
With five strakes completed I will stop here and use the tick trip method to work out the remaining planking requirements before I continue.
 
 
B.E.
02.09/2020
 
 

Over the last two days, I was able to complete the upper part of the frames, construct the "shelves," prepare the floor, and start working on the bulwark rails.  The shelves and floor were fashioned from 1/32" basswood sheet.  The shelves are colored with chestnut wood stain, while the floor is scribed to look like planks, and stained with a mixture of India ink, isopropyl alcohol, and water.
 
I do not know if there is a name for what I call the "shelves."  It appears that all classes of Galway Hookers have them, and they are connected with cross pieces (I have yet to build the cross pieces).  The final structure appears to serve as bracing and/or seats - almost like the framework for decking.
 
The railing done so far is a 1/16" basswood strip set interior and above the planking and the tops of the frames.  A 3mm  wide strip of 1/32" basswood sheet was attached interior to that 1/16" strip, covering the tops of the frames a little bit.  I still have to fashion the outer (exterior) trim to the rail.
 
The shelf and floor pieces are not glued in yet.  Once the railing is done, I plan on painting the whole hull black before installing the floor and finishing the shelf and other interior features.  I read somewhere, that the hulls of these boats were heavily tarred, hence the typical black color, inside and out...
 

I decided to rig the upper shrouds before mounting the masts, because the deadeyes are very small and it's easier to manipulate the mast while working them.  See pictures.  One with flash to make the lines show up (but too many shadows), and one without.
 
I'll do the ratlines once the masts are mounted.
 
Thanks,
David

Masts and bowsprit are now up.  Pictures below.  Some of the holes in the brass fittings need to be drilled out -- important to do that before mounting them.
 
Now on to the yards -- there are 19 of them on this thing.
 
Regards,
David

Last update.
She is finished!
It was a fun build and I enjoy it every minute.
Time to do some rigging at another model 🙂
The last picture is her final place where she is gonna stay.
 
Sjors
 
 

Wow, two updates after each other 🙂
The yards are is place and now the running rigging.....
 
Sjors
 

On a sunny day another update.
The bowsprit is done with the rigging.
Also de Jib boom and Gaf.
It's small but funny.
I'm pleased how it all comes together.
Now it is time for make the yards ready....
There all ready painted so time for the blocks.
Till another update.
Enjoy your day and keep healthy!
 
Sjors
 
 
 

Another little update - the upper deck is now planked.  I used a pencil on the edges of the planks to darken them,then a #78 drill bit was used to make a small indentation to simulate treenails.  The deck was then scraped & sanded & a coat of poly applied.  The treenails can`t be seen at arm`s length,but show in the close-up - just what I was aiming for.
 

 

 

 
Mark

Hi - not a lot to show this time.  The upper false deck has been glued in place along with the beams & marked off for a 4 butt shift for the planking.  The screen bulkhead was also assembled & glued in place.  The instructions say to add the margin planks next,but they are not shown on the plans so I will just add them as I see fit.  The columns on the bulkhead will be added after the deck is planked.   I had to file a small notch in the second beam from the front to clear the capstan,which was a touch high after adding the platform under it - won`t be seen after the ship`s boats are in place.
 

 

 
Mark

Upper gun deck is now fitted out.  Gratings,ladders,capstans,bulwark cleats, cannon balls,& stove are all in place now.
 

 

 
Thanks for looking in
 
 
Mark

Hi - finally got myself in gear & got the upper gun deck guns done.   I only rigged the ones that are not hidden under the upper decks. I used Chucks 2.5mm blocks - the smallest I can work with.   Most of the other fittings for this deck are already made - just have to place them all.
 

 

 

 

 
 
Mark