egkb

I would like to apologize to the members of MSW for my somewhat abrupt behavior over the last day or so.  In addition, I apologize to Chuck for any difficulties this may have caused.  He and I have been in contact, via PM and I hope at some point he sees fit to return to MSW administration.
 
We are, in fact, of the same mind.  This site exists for the purpose of model shipbuilding discussion while, at the same time, leaving room for a certain degree of so-called off topic comments essential to establishing personal relationships.  Others may agree or not depending on their own outlook.  But in my opinion we have long been tolerant of one another in order to have a vibrant, harmonious site.  Somehow, lines were drawn and we became divided.
 
This is not why we came here.
 
I intend to return to 'active duty', welcoming any and all commentary to my logs with the proviso that we keep things somewhat more focused than in the past.  I thank all those who intervened positively during this episode and hope that those who chose to leave will return to MSW.

Anthony,
 
Yes, you're right, the central section has removable boards, to make it easier to get to the stores anywhere below in the hold. The forward and after sections both have decked platforms, for various cabins and storerooms.
 
As Alexandru implies, the the orlop was surrounded by the carpenter's walk, a passageway to enable the carpenter and his mates access to plug any leaks on the waterline during battle.
 
Btw, you're making a splendid job on your cross section. 

Hello Shipmates.
 Thanks for your kind words Jeff
Another few photos with the Orlop deck fitted into its position. Not yet glued as I have the top surface to sand and clean up.
 

 
Approx 5mm to trim off the pump house.

 
Temporary spacer plank to mark the amount I need to remove from pump house height.

 
View looking down onto deck.

 
Thanks for looking in
 
Regards Antony.

Hello Shipmates.
Another update.
The photos says it all
Not yet finished yet Now have the thin Deck timbers to add.
 
View fron the top.

 
Close up.

 
This is a view from the underside. The Wires are for the LED lighting.

 
The last set on the Orlop Deck.


 
Regards Antony

Hello Daniel.
I had a old piece of kitchen work surface which had MDF on the bottom.
I turned this over to show the MDF which I can drive screws into.
Then I have a sheet of Poleycarbonate 10mm thick. This is pulled into the camber by putting the correct packaging at the edges and using countersunk screws to pull the centre down.
Plans can be held in place tith the edge packing.
As each deck has a different camber all I need to do is reduce or increase the edge packing for less or more camber.
And of course if you lammanate timber it will hold its shape with little or no spring back.
 
I hope this is the information you wanted
 
Regards Antony.

Hello Shipmates.
  Finished making the main beams for the Orlop Deck.
The beams were made up by laminating 2mm thick pieces of timber and assembled on the plan which is curved for the camber.
 

 

 
Close up of the joint (not yet cleaned up )

 

 
 And before anyone with a sharp eye spots it I am building the Deck upside down. (It’s my method)
 
Regards Antony.
 

Hello Shipmates.
 
Another small update.
 
The pumphouse with the shot lockers in place BUT not glued because I will trim the height after fitting the Orlop deck into place.
 
Front view.
 

 
 
 
Other side still the front.
 

 
 
 
View from the rear.
 

 
 
 
Shot lockers lids raised.
 

 
 
 
The next two photos are prepping the Orlop deck construction.
 
The mill I used is a Proxxon .
 
 
 
These are only test joints on some scrap timber.
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
That’s about it for now.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 
 
 
Regards Antony.
 
 

Hello Shipmates.
Thank you all for your very nice comments. It is a very nice encouragement to continue and improve my skills.
I really am enjoying this build as there is so much to do.
The new bits so far I have learnt are :-
Drawing up plans and resurching details.
learning to use my saw. (Never cut wood before with a power saw.)
The planning of a method of construction. So important.( planning ahead)
What timbers are available to me. And where I can use them.
This list just shows what a newbie I am to Scratch building model ships LOL
 
Just started cutting timber for the Orlop deck so will post a few pictures tonight of my progress.
And will post a photo of the completed hold.
 
Regards Antony.

Antony, it is so neat to see the level of detail that you are putting into this section, I can see that making these sections has a particular appeal and they are more educational than some models because they really draw attention to the methods of construction.
 
Michael

Hello Shipmates.
 
Another update.
 
Have removed the Ship from the Build Jig temporary to Fit the Rear shot locker.
 
Been working on the Hold racks and fitting the Shot lockers to the pump house.
 
 
 
First a few pics of the Racks.
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
The covers are now complete.
 

 
 
 
The Hold.
 

 
 
 
Rear view of the Hold.
 

 
 
 
And the other side.
 


 
Will post another update over the weekend when Pump house with Shot lockers are fitted.
 
Regards Antony.
 

Hello Shipmates.
Done quite a lot of work but as yet not photographed anything.
I did change the hinges on the shot lockers.
As you can see they are very small and they come with the pins.

 
A single Hatch.

 
All the Hatches.

 
And made up the main mast.

 
Will post more tomorrow evening.
 
Regards Antony.

Hi.
 Just a update :-
 The timber in the Hold is now in place. I used Black card to simulate the chulking and will start the treenailing next week.
And made the Mast Step.

 

 
Made up the corner posts for the Pump house and quite happy with my first attempt at cutting a profile
Planks are fitted and not glued at this point Nice fit.

 
Also Made the Pump house. and the Shot lockers.

 



 
Will start on the Ryders next.. Not sure on how I will do this as each set will be different size.
 
Thanks for looking in
 
Regards Antony.

Anthony,
 
I would think all the decks are caulked, and I believe I have seen a photo of the lower deck being so treated. If you also look at photos of the Victory's decks, I think you will see they are. Naturally the weather decks are the most important in keeping water out, but if you think about it all of the decks would get wet at some stage, from washing down periodically, pump water, etc. So yes, I would do it.
 
An interesting piece of information from the curator Andrew Baines recently, is that the Victory is to be again caulked using the traditional methods, during her refit. After having used a synthetic mastic substance for several years, he said that the modern material just didn't flex with the temperature, as traditional hemp would do - and was a source of leaks! Surprise, surprise, it just goes to show that the tried and tested (over several hundred years) techniques are often the best.
 
She's looking very good so far, I shall be following with interest.

Hi.
Two photos with the timber cut to length and coloured with Oil and dye.
 

 

 
Also have Backboard with section plan in place to check square and correct placement.
 
Regards Antony.

Hi.
Another step done.
A Photo with the ship on my 14 year old lads Wheelchair tray. for Yves.

 
Close up of the frames.

 
The timber cut and ready to put into place.

 
I will colour the timber before fitting (not sure yet on what colour/stain).
 
More as I progress.
Regards Antony.

Hello.
I have been asked to construct a Model to show the inside of a Ship.
I have chosen to build the HMS Victory at a large scale of 1/36.90
Having got permission to use the plans from :-
http://www.mountainhaven.com/VictoryXCP/PDFbin/Frame_Sta_( .pdf
http://www.mountainhaven.com/VictoryXCP/PDFbin/Frame_Sta_0.pdf
http://www.mountainhaven.com/VictoryXCP/PDFbin/Frame_Sta_3.pdf
 
A previous topic regarding plans.
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2885-large-scale-cross-section-drawings/#entry79890
 
I have redrawn the plans and added bits and made the drawings slightley more accurate.
I am using adobe illustrator.
The nice thing about using Illustrator is that it is vector drawn so it can be scaled up to any size. I am printing mine on A1 this gives me the scale of 1:36.90
The construction of this model will consist of five frames on each side.
The Keel is make from mahogany.
This will have holes for pining the frame guides.


And the Garboard plank cutout. And false copper pins/rivets.




The two frame guides are fixed to the keel.
The frames are inserted into the frame guides and jig'ed to hold them at the correct shape and distance.


I have also included the curvature of the hull into the model.
The clamping blocks have a curve in to allow for the hull curvature.
The clamping blocks will remain in place until I need to remove them for planking.
The dummy frames will be added to the ends of the hull.
I will use 4mm basswood for the dummy frames.


Next I will plank the exterior.
Then its building up the deck by deck.
 
Orlop deck beams drawing.
Orlop Deck LH.pdf
Lower deck beams drawing.
Lower Deck LH.pdf
Middle deck beams drawing.
Middle Deck LH.pdf
Upper deck beams drawing.
Upper Deck LH.pdf
Quarter Deck beams drawings.
Quarter Deck LH.pdf
Section through centre drawings.
hull.pdf
Side view drawing.
Hull Side View tmp.pdf
Orlop deck layout.
Orlop Deck Plan LH.pdf
Lower Deck layout.
Lower Deck Plan LHtemp.pdf
Middle Deck layout.
Middle Deck Plan LH.pdf
Upper Deck layout.
Upper Deck Plan LH.pdf
Quarter Deck layout.
Quarter Deck Plan LH.pdf
 
Some of the timber preped for use.

I will Add the drawings after I have as I compleated them.
 
Started the build as you can see in the photos .
Have now got to add the Dummey frames.
 
Regards Antony.

Thank you ,Christian, for your appreciation.
Coming from you it's highly appreciated.
In fact, I took a very very long time to cut and adjust the gunports. I constantly worked with a calliper square and special callipers I made.
I assume that finally the size (and also the position) of my gunports are right with a precision of 0,1 or 0,2mm (it means around 1 cm on the actual ship).
I am now working on the starboard and hope to have it done ... for Christmas.
You are right about the last events, but the loss of one of our friends is always ...a loss.
Pierre

Finally back after a long absence.
I could continue the piercing of the inner wall and also lined the gunports (without sills).
The port side is now completely finished and ready for receiving the second planking.
I also added to all the other ports a liile piece of balsa that can be used as support of the lining in the future.

 
I also made a new attempt in painting the front fascia. I mixed a little bit of white to the Caldercraft french blue.
The final colour seems to me better (however the photography with flash doesn't give the right colour. It's actually much darker), but the result is horrible because the paint doesn't mix easily (they dry too quickly).
I have to redo it and I think I shall go back to the Caldercraft (dark) french blue.
 

 
I don't know what is exactly happening, but I feel that today is a sad day (for all Aggie builders and for MSW) as I noticed that Mobbsie closed his log.
Pierre

I am working hard trying to get the hull nice and smooth with the right colour
 

 
As you can see I am getting a slight problem with runs
My plan is to use this paint to get a perfect base
I have just sent off for some Vallejo airbrush paint as they have a fantastic range
I have got Light Sea Grey and Hull Red
They were the ones that most closely matched the ship as she is how
Also being proper airbrush paint I shouldn't get the same problem with runs as I did with the paint I had to thin myself
Going to take my time on this as it is important to get a good finish on a metal hull

Irish merchant ship during WWI.
Almost there....
 
Jan

That is an awesome idea, I love it. Will definitely try this technique out
 
Cheers
Rowan

Thanks ZyXuz..    I get lazy and use my phone to take photos when i should get out the 16mp Canon, which i did just now.. Detail cant hide then
 
So I thought i would share this technique i just came up with to make a bucket.. (I really dont like the look of those churned out by the thousand ones..)
 
So i found a nice size tapered lid off a epoxy tube and screwed the base to that and waited till everything was in position with bands to hold it tight, then I "spot weld" with CA and it popped out no worries after a few minures., just dont over do glue at this stage... Then i sanded inside round and mixed Araldite 24Hr super strength to coat the inside.. Tomorrow it will under go trimming and sanding down to a much thinner thickness..
 
Also a close up of water cask.. This time i cut the bands from aluminium cans in about 2mm strips and sprayed matt black before glueing on, then satin clear coated the lot...     Cheers again all commenting and helping .. Ollie

Thanks Jan.. Pollux was the only ship I could find that even remotely looked like your post... though having said that I was almost going to offer Astrid as an answer..
Boy oh boy that was an awkward one Jan
 
Give me a few hours guys and I'll have something worthy of your attention (hopefully not as tough as Pollux though )
 
Eamonn

I have been building one of the final items for interior... Drinking vessel (cask) you tell me what it's called..
 
Made a tap out of brass but think i will redo it in the style in picture.. only took 10 mins.. Attatched a picture of them in the Endeavour replica...
 
Thanks all. and happy crafting. Ollie

I think Eamon has other fish to fry in stead of recovering.
He has to find a new ship to show us here.
The brig in my picture was indeed ZrMs Pollux, Dutch Navy Brig.
No real history, so apart from one or two lines in some obscure Wiki-page and this pic there is little to find on her. 
 
Jan