kruginmi

Had a little time, check that off the list.  Tubs for Faux gun deck access complete.  -Mark

Great Anders, thanks for the help.  I am not a member of facebook so unfortunately another source of info unavailable.  I will forge ahead having fun in the process.
 
With the time I have had I went ahead and make the 'tubs' to house the three ladders going down to the main gun deck.  These will be inset into the deck (from below - why the planking is not complete) to give the impression of a full gun deck.

After these will need to add the masts under deck blocking and drill the hole to seat the masts.  Then the gun deck ports will need to be individually cut out and backing applied to secure the half cannon and lids.
 
Then.....the planking can be completed.
Stay Building my Friends,  Mark

On the theme of the prop tunnel I decided to do the topside portion.  This is a faux tunnel.  It is covered by a timber housing the pulleys so is seen only on a limited capacity.  Paint the tunnel black, add the deck and timber and all will be fine.
 
With the center alignment component I had added way back in the initial alignment phase, it was best to cut a good access way to allow this to be cut away.  This also allowed the making the tunnel off ship which was much easier.

After gluing into place everything looks good.  Again, this is a false deck - the real deck will be laid on top of this so clean up is very easy.

A much needed improvement to the model - as well as a very cool part of the real ship.
Mark

Family activities (and I picked up a new guitar) have kept me from the workshop but today I wanted to make some forward progress.  Before I forgot and was unable to, I made full size templates for all the stuff that emerged above the deck - like hatches and funnel mounts.  Anything I need to make for these spaces can be measured off ship now.

For the actual hull I built out the tunnel for the prop to enter into the hull.  The model as received had nothing and I think the whole prop look was sub-par.  This tunnel in the actual ship went all the up to the aft deck, where the ropes went to hoist or let down the prop.  The tunnel will not actually functionally go all the way to the mid-deck (need the center bulkhead for support) but the illusion will be there since I will create a faux tunnel at the deck level.

Once I plank around this I can sand to the hull shape.
Cheers, Mark

Thank you so much Anders for the note!  The question of the bow has truly been a head scratcher - comparing what the kit provides / defines and real life.  Your pictures show it much more open than I even thought!  Given the overall issues with the kit I have decided to do a mod to the newer kit, but still have it more closed in.  If I had known sooner than the bulkheads could have been changed.  The area under the grating will be painted black.  It will look 'okay' at the 4 foot away level haha.
 
The bow hull flair out was interesting given the lack of adequate support.  Until I was in the thick of it just never realized the issues here.  With your photos I will look to add a solid floor around the bowsprit.  It makes sense for the deck to extent totally forward.

It is surprising the lack of information readily available for a survivor still around.  Anymore ideas or tips certainly appreciated.  I will take a look around for those books referenced.  Next step is to work on the stern.  I am adding the 'tunnel' for the screw to go into the hull (reworked the lower purchase already).
 
If nothing else I am having fun building this for my uncle.  If I could get a good set of hull lines might attempt a second from scratch - my plans put me close already!
 
Pull that hull down, slap some paint on it and get'r done.  You have probably seen I have redrawn the masting, particularly the gaff poles.
Mark

Finished up one side with the gun deck ports.  Like most things with ships, given the quantity of repetition your technique and speed increase.  The aft most port requires the planking below to be added first.

 
I have only put the backing on 4 ports so far.  Doing some fine tuning with plank alignment.
Mark

Boy oh Boy Anders - you are making this hard.  If I could find that book you pointed me at with all the information to make this more than a hit or miss model I would add the 2nd layer of planking.  Even the cabin being added in 1874 draws questions.
 
Am I making a 60's era model, a bit ragged and old (like myself) or a pseudo-replica.  Luckily I can ponder that question for awhile until I finish the first layer and smooth it out with wood filler.
Mark
 
P.S.  I should add - there is no figurehead in the kit.  A rough picture to carve from a block.  I have my first one under my belt (a Druid for the HMS Druid), but this is a different animal.  I have put that issue off for closer to the end of the build haha.
 

Mark,
the planking on Jylland is quite noticeable even from a distance. When I built my hull 25 years ago I double planked it with an outer layer of 4 mm wide planks of thin plywood to simulate the look of the real ship.
Here are some photos of the bulkhead for the rear cabin. This cabin by the way was not a part of the original design. It was added when the Danish king Christian IX was visiting Iceland in 1874.

Gun deck cannon ports starboard size complete (sans the last port).  No backing plates.

As a side note:  Looking at the pics (again) of the museum ship the planks are evident on the side of the ship at medium to close range.  One part of my brain thinks a doubly planked hull would be awesome, the other says knock it off.  I am trending towards stick to the original plan.
Mark

Thanks Keith,.  I need to remember to review pics every week or two.  The source plans I have are very 'lacking.'  For instance, there is a vertical timber on the outside of the hull between some of the ports - not on the plans.  Easy to add, just need to figure out how many and where.
 
Seems like those 'what is that' still occurs at almost every perusal.
Mark

Thanks very much for stopping by.  I like you don't have to squint so much to recognize it as a ship now haha.
 
Hey Anders - do you have any straight on shots of the aft deck house doors / windows?  I am working on getting the facade made up prior to the (soon to be) mast placement.  I have oblique shots and can wing it but if you have something better that would be great.
Mark

Very interesting ship and looks like it is coming along quite nicely. 

Finished up one side with the gun deck ports.  Like most things with ships, given the quantity of repetition your technique and speed increase.  The aft most port requires the planking below to be added first.

 
I have only put the backing on 4 ports so far.  Doing some fine tuning with plank alignment.
Mark

Finished up one side with the gun deck ports.  Like most things with ships, given the quantity of repetition your technique and speed increase.  The aft most port requires the planking below to be added first.

 
I have only put the backing on 4 ports so far.  Doing some fine tuning with plank alignment.
Mark

Time to make up the handy dandy cannon port sizer gauge (lower gunport). 

Time to walk around the hull and finish off the gun deck cannon ports.  To repeat myself, the kit provides only the front half of the gun barrels, so a backing piece is required.  This is actually a good thing because there is not inner structure holding up the plank between cannon port (why they weren't full cut out before this plank was installed. 

So I will work my way around going every other port to cut out and glue in the backing piece.  The remaining hull opening provides perfect access for my clamp of choice.  I had thought about framing out each port but the lids will be closed (with a circular center hold the cannon sticks out) and with the wood filler and smooth external finish I didn't deem the extra work worthwhile.  This is 'IF' I keep up the quality and uniformity of each and every port.  Not the time to slack.  Lather, rinse, repeat.
Cheers, Mark

Had a little time, check that off the list.  Tubs for Faux gun deck access complete.  -Mark

Great Anders, thanks for the help.  I am not a member of facebook so unfortunately another source of info unavailable.  I will forge ahead having fun in the process.
 
With the time I have had I went ahead and make the 'tubs' to house the three ladders going down to the main gun deck.  These will be inset into the deck (from below - why the planking is not complete) to give the impression of a full gun deck.

After these will need to add the masts under deck blocking and drill the hole to seat the masts.  Then the gun deck ports will need to be individually cut out and backing applied to secure the half cannon and lids.
 
Then.....the planking can be completed.
Stay Building my Friends,  Mark

Time to make up the handy dandy cannon port sizer gauge (lower gunport). 

Time to walk around the hull and finish off the gun deck cannon ports.  To repeat myself, the kit provides only the front half of the gun barrels, so a backing piece is required.  This is actually a good thing because there is not inner structure holding up the plank between cannon port (why they weren't full cut out before this plank was installed. 

So I will work my way around going every other port to cut out and glue in the backing piece.  The remaining hull opening provides perfect access for my clamp of choice.  I had thought about framing out each port but the lids will be closed (with a circular center hold the cannon sticks out) and with the wood filler and smooth external finish I didn't deem the extra work worthwhile.  This is 'IF' I keep up the quality and uniformity of each and every port.  Not the time to slack.  Lather, rinse, repeat.
Cheers, Mark

I also ponder (being prior military) the entrenched leadership and associated tactics and doctrine.  All of it out the window.  The inner fighting and clinging to the ways they knew.  Can't imagine the chaos at all levels of ranks.

Mark, over the years I've gathered up lots of info for the time period between 1860 and 1900. If ever you need a lead on something don't hesitate to ask. 
 
This period from sail to steam, cannon to gun, and wood hull to clad is amazing. All the new technologies being brought online by Navies round the world was incredible. Ships were launched and became obsolete in a fifteen/twenty year time span. The Tennessee that I'm currently working on was the USS Madawaska and renamed the USS Tennessee in 1869 after a spar deck was added and a major refit only to be scrapped in 1886. And we think todays military spending is crazy. 

Hey Keith, thanks for the note.  I live close to the west coast - in Grand Rapids.  Grew up in Plymouth.  Lived all over the United States but have returned (if you count the Army, add some foreign countries too haha).  Definitely like this side more than the Detroit area.
 
This transition time was so fleeting but that makes it so interesting.  I keep getting drawn to more detail and scratch but keep in check based on it is/was a kit and I am not swimming in information about it.  Keeping it fun and not sweating it.
Mark

Mark, I just discovered your Jylland build log. She's taking shape nicely. Screw frigates are my passion, I look forward to following along.
 
 Where are you located in our lovely state?

Had a little time, check that off the list.  Tubs for Faux gun deck access complete.  -Mark

Had a little time, check that off the list.  Tubs for Faux gun deck access complete.  -Mark

Great progress. The propellor lifting mechanism is a quite cool part of the design. Here is a couple of pictures of how it looks on deck and down below.
The metal nett is probably added in modern time for security as Jylland is a museum ship.
I have more pictures so if you are in need of information on any particular part of the ship just let me know and I will see what I have.
Another info channel is the Facebook group "Fregatten Jylland" 
 
Anders