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  1. Thanks Kurt, I’m in no way wed to silver soldering. I’ve simply never really done metalwork before (I am comfortable soldering electronics, but I don’t know that that experience is significantly transferable here) and am open to whatever gets the job done. I understand the concept of joints for eye bolts and the like, but I don’t fully understand how to join flat pieces to build something that can go around a mast for example. I think this book sounds like it should help me out there; it’s probably not as complicated as I’m making it out to be, but having some reference material should help provide some confidence.
  2. Vince - that’s good to know. I saw that the second edition by Foran has been updated to include a section on model ships, but I didn’t see if it included silver soldering or not. Do you happen to know which volume (of the Underhill books) has the metal work section?
  3. Awesome! Thank you all for the recommendations. I’ll start picking with Ken Foran’s most likely and go from there. Thanks again!
  4. I’ve never done any metal work before while I’ve searched, I can’t see to find a beginner’s guide. I found a Silver Soldering intro which was great for tools and joints, but I thought I might need a little more information. I’m trying to recreate parts like these: Can anyone point me in the right direction? And hopefully give some guidance on how to properly paint it as well? Thank you!
  5. I finally attached the transom (on my second try). I used a spare balsa block to get a better hold for my clamp and as you can see I did a poor job of beveling the transom to 45 degrees (my first sanding was more like 60-75 degrees). I'm starting to strongly consider a small disc sand to help with angles.
  6. I finished prepping the deck by applying a Golden Oak stain and then coating it with some polyurethane before dry fitting to the bulkheads. I needed to do a little sanding for a nice fit before gluing and clamping. I might pick up a few small clamps for my next build. Also, I'm excited to report that my new rope, cleats and deadeyes came in from Syren Ship Model Company today. I need to pick up a block tumber for the deadeyes at some point, but I have a little while before I get to the rigging at this pace. Next up - the transom.
  7. Nice job; looks like it is coming along nicely. Are the stl files for the clamps available online at all? These look potentially really useful.
  8. Wow that is great info. Of course I used too heavy of a pencil... I expected to make mistakes an learn through them, but I assumed that I would make it through a few more steps. At least I’ll have better pencils for next time :-). Right now I’m letting the stained deck dry and coating it with some semi-gloss poly. Hopefully there will be a picture or two in the near future.
  9. Like a Stone - Audioslave
  10. Thanks for the advice Dr. PR. I did some research and I unfortunately was unable to turn up anything conclusive. I decided against going down a rabbit hole and after looking at many of the other built kits I plan on sticking to the plans here since they don’t have any plank lengths specified. For now I’ll look forward to prepping the deck. A white eraser removed the pencil lines for me (a pink one left behind pink residue, good thing I tried scrap wood first).
  11. Thanks Chris, I'm looking forward to it and hopefully I'll learn my fair share in the process. I had a few hours tonight so I attached the bulkheads and cut out the deck. I penciled in the planking lines and unfortunately at least one line went astray, is there any easy way to remove pencil from the wood to redo that one? I've noticed that sanding doesn't seem to work well. I also feel like I should add the horizontal lines and potentially nail dots to finish the realistic look of the deck. Does anyone have a suggestion for what lengths I should make the planks and what the layout should be?
  12. I choose the Sharpie Schooner by Midwest for my second build (their Chesapeake Bay Flattie was my first build). I've seen several beautiful builds on here, especially the log from hopeful: Sharpie Schooner by hopeful, and I'm hoping to add some of their flair to my build. Upon opening the box I sadly noticed that almost all of the blocks and cleats were plastic so I ordered new ones (along with some deadeyes and rope) from the Syren Ship Model Company (I really wasn't pleased with the thread on my Flattie). This build will probably be very slow (two young kids keep me pretty occupied outside of work) but keeping a build log should force me to do at least a little every week. At the moment I'm in the process of cutting out the keel and bulkheads. Already I know I'm going to have questions about coloring the anchor and chain as well as improving upon my rigging and potential color schemes, but we can save those for when I get to them.
  13. Welcome from another fellow Floridian! I’ve always had an interest in RC planes as well (I’ve only flown one once though).
  14. This is really impressive! Nice job, when I get a few more ships under my belt I may have to see if my kids are interested. These kits seem perfect for that type of build.
  15. Thanks for the suggestions! I was initially hoping for something internal to the forum as I switch between devices, but I can use the renamed bookmark system and figure out a good way to “sync devices.” I’ve always held off on the sign into browser features but that would alleviate that issue. Thanks again!

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If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

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