Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100

[kruginmi]

My Uncle had this one bouncing around his house (un-built) since probably the early 70's if not before.  He asked if I could build it which I happily said yes.

Win - Win.  I build a ship, there is a place for it to go.  So here we go!

 

Note:  This is the 'original' kit and not the new updated one.  Actually pretty rough in the wood department - especially pre-cut stuff.  I have spent quite a bit of time getting the pre-cut bulkheads to be usable as well as drafting my own plans off of the supplied ones to make something that fits the actual model.

 

I am just going to jump in from where I am.  I kept updating and modifying the plans based on photos and the the Billings Boats downloaded mini plans for the updated model.  Finally I just said lets make some wood shavings and glue something.  We can figure stuff out as we go.

 

This model is a biggie - 30" hull length.  I am adding a 1/32" false deck below the planking.  The supplied deck will not be used (doesn't fit and stamped lines).  This drawing exercise was essential for figuring out actual locations and good stuff like aft deck rake and bowsprit angle.

In this pic the rear three bulkheads have been glued and now am gluing the forth from the back.  I abandoned the slots on the left and right in each bulkhead since they didn't line up.  I defined and cut the central rib going down the middle.  Yes, there are places where things go below deck (faux stairways, etc) but I want it straight and strong.  Once the false deck is affixed as well as the top level planking cutting through this rib will be fine.

 

You can also see on the central bulkhead aft how much wood needed to be added for the upper deck.

 

So the build is on, with LOTS of scratch upcoming.  Sooner than later need to figure out how far the aft deck goes (my plans show much farther than the museum ship has or the new plans show).

Cheers, Mark

 

[kruginmi]

The fun times when the shape of a ship emerges in just a couple of hours.  I have one bulkhead left up front, but am doing some major mods into how it fits the upper deck.  Truth be told, this is about a month in.  Each bulkhead needed extensive work for height, keel cut out and mirror shaping.  But with the plans I drew and mods made, it fit together very well.

The goal right now is to have the false deck attached by the end of the weekend.  I will be adding spacers between each bulkhead for strength when sanding.

Stay Building My Friends, Mark

[kruginmi]

On to the rough in of the bow.  This is a week spot of the model as designed and several changes will be made.  The newer model had some good ideas so I used some of those as well as some of my own.  The last two bulkheads were the following:

You can see their lack of symmetry.  The proposed changes were sketched in and then checked against the build as it stands today - primarily the location of the false deck support.  Once satisfied I cut away the parts no longer needed.

You can see the amount of bulkhead I cut away on the topmost one by seeing just a hint of the previous slots cut in by Billings.  Verified by the plans I drew and by eye, comes out just right.  This was one of those areas where drawing the plans presented a lot of intersection pieces at different angles.  Best to get the base complete and then fine tune on the actual model.

These were all the supports provided by the kit.  I intend to add two additional ones.  One below the forward end of the deck as well as one half way between for support and something to plank against.  This will be quite sturdy eventually.

 

Note:  The bowsprit buts up against the forward bulkhead, coming down the stem.  I did finally look at the supplied wood for the masts and spars fully expecting dowels.  Nope.  They are already sized and shaped.  That will save some time.  Part of me wants to scratch build them but again the intent is to make the kit my Uncle always wanted too.

 

Stay Building My Friends, Mark

 

[robdurant]

Looks like a great start. Hope you don't mind if I follow along.

[kruginmi]

My intent is to do something every evening that I am home.  Today the agenda was full but I still managed to get down to the shipyard.  I cut out the false main deck.  I of course measured three times and still managed to cut a piece short so I will need to go to the store for another 1/32" basswood board.  Additional wood is required for the fore and aft upper decks anyways.

Still a few touches to do before gluing these down.  The decks are cut a little proud to allow sanding to shape.  The rigidity of the hull will certainly be much greater soon.  There is a camber to the deck side to side.  I will glue and brad nail to affix, then pull the nails after the glue dries.

Cheers, Mark

[kruginmi]

Small steps but it all adds up.  Glued in the 13th slotted bulkhead, the last contained in the kit.  As mentioned earlier, I will do two additional forward of this last but I need some structure present to identify sizing.  There are also two subsections going from the main deck up to the fore and aft upper decks.

I then proceeded to glue the central spine in.  This was not in the kit.  Given the wonkiness of the bulkheads I defined and cut the slot as well as provided the wood.  This not only strengthens the hull but provides a good basis for the two part false deck.  Sections of the spine will need to be eventually cut away (staircases and mast blocks) but the stability will be taken up by the planking.  The side slots are ignored - they do not line up.  I will glue in spacers between each bulkhead (one each side) for additional stability.

I used glue fillets as opposed to glue in the actual joint.  The wood in the kit was very porous and I found sucked in the glue and became super tacky very fast.  My concern with the snug fit was that I would not be able to get the wood positioned after glue up before It became 'stuck.'  Additionally, this was not a load bearing component.  This will be fine.

 

Tomorrow I hope to get the first half of the false deck glued up.  If things go well I might be affixing the first plank at deck level this weekend.  I will be adding the bulwark supports next to the bulkheads.  

 

Still need to decide on the aft deck size.  Follow the model plans or follow the museum ship.  Thinking to follow the museum ship layout in this regard.

Mark

 

[kruginmi]

First of all, to all the Military Veterans out there I salute you.  1LT, 75th FA BDE out of Ft Sill.  Desert Shield/Storm

 

I managed to get my 1/32" basswood resupply.  Then in two trips to basement I glued and nailed the decks down (1/2 at a time).  Once the glue was set, I removed the nails.  Even starting sanding the edge of the deck to the bulkheads.

To say the hull has stiffened up is an understatement.

Next big thing to start visualizing the planking is to set the bearding line.  I cannot carve into the supplied ply, just not wide enough.  Looking at the new kit instructions I found the parts list includes complete dimensions - very handy.  I found the 'keel' was the same width, but they included two 1mm overlays (bearding line on down) to provide the ledge for the plans to land on.  Makes perfect sense.  Already drew them out, now to cut out templates and glue to the assembly.  Should happen tomorrow.

Cheers, Mark

[kruginmi]

Where oh where should that bearding line lie.....    Can't cut it in because of insufficient thickness so I will add a layer.

 

Once again, the beauty of the drawn plans pays out.  I can trace the required template and cut it out.

I traced this out onto some scratch 1/32" basswood (leaving a little margin) and cleaned out the inner side by sanding.

Fit like a glove.  Add some wood glue and let it setup.

A little light sanding and the bearding line is defined and ready for planking.  I need to repeat this as a straight piece on the keel and then two more pieces for the rudder area.  The basswood is much easier to seal and paint.

Mark

[kruginmi]

So as usual, pulling one string leads to another leads to another.....   I decided to go ahead and finish the bearding line.  The keel was no big deal - an 1/8" strip glued down did the trick.  This will be really beneficial to shaping the bulkheads, there is at least one reaching down farther than the rest.  This defined stop will allow me to shape off of a known.

 

The string referred to was the aft section.  This model has a drop down prop.  From the plans the model has a last minute -oh yah I have to add that to the plans look, just totally inadequate.  For me to skin the aft section I need to figure out what I am going to do here.  I had hacked off the attachment point and added a new rudder attachment point previously.  Looking at a close up pic of the rudder from on line I just started adding pieces.  I did decide to add the tunnel going straight up into the hull so cut that out of the center bulkhead.  The other parts are fixed and remain in the place.  All the components above the prop is the structure that can be pulled up.  I will not make the prop movable vertically but it will look like it can.

Here you can also see the keel add on.  The stern will be shaped blocks along with the lower half of the section preceding.

Tomorrow need to get a bowsprit stand in and probably start truing up the bulkheads.

Mark

Edited November 13, 2022 by kruginmi
readability

[kruginmi]

Up next is the garboard plank strake.

 

The model is a singly planked hull but is designed to be be a flush surface, so well wood filled and sealed.  The 'planks' are primarily 10 and 20 mm wide strips of pretty flexible wood.  The garboard strake will be a 10 mm strip.

 

In a perfect world, with the bearding line defined and well made bulkheads this strake should almost effortlessly slide into place with just a little sanding to set the seat angle of the strake.  Well, this isn't a perfect world.  The bulkheads needed all sorts of modification to make them usable.  I knew they were close but that 'adjusting' would be required.  The following shows the norm when sliding the plank to the conclusion of the bulkhead - visible keel.  On this side I did have one spot on and one that overshot (will need to be sanded down).

This is easily fixed.  I marked the height of the plank on all the bulkheads.  Instead of modifying the bulkheads themselves I am going to affix a piece of adjoining wood sized to the plank that spans the correct dimensions.  As can be seen very little fine tuning was needed but it made all the difference in the world.  After gluing the face of the piece I slide into place, put the strake into place and then pushed the piece against the strake along it's entire length.  Then simply remove the strake and let the glue dry.  I skipped every other bulkhead with a small section of sample strake to allow the drying to occur.  Didn't take very long and really no sanding.

When viewed from the other side the delta achieved is seen.  Test fitting the strake provides the result I was looking for.

The strake still needs some tuning on how it meets the strake face wise but this is totally different than not fitting.

 

This is at the bottom of the ship.  Once all strakes are affixed, gaps filled, wood sealed and finally painted it will look marvelous.  I fixed these problems in less than 1/2 hour each side.

 

Planking a model is where a lot of people stop or give up halfway.  I am no expert but after doing a couple of hulls I feel pretty confident.  The key is prep and having a plan.  Hoping to have the garboard strakes affixed this weekend.  See how things go.

 

Next up will be the strake just below the main deck.  I need to add railing supports and this will provide me the strength and support necessary to add those.  Stay tuned.

From a very snowy Michigan, stay safe.  Mark

[kruginmi]

I should add that I have not sanded the bulkheads for fore / aft plank angle yet, that is next.  With the bulkheads now correctly aligned, the plank angle can be added.  -Mark

[kruginmi]

As a side project I looked at the new plans and they (sort of) talked about rigging lines and where they get tied down.  This was pictorially.  I spent some time looking at the pics (using zoom for my eyes) and documented on paper what this worked out as.  This model did just the basic yard halliards, and braces.  Lifts were shown (actually drooping) but I believe the intent was just to tie them off at the point of contact with the mast.  The Gaffs were less defined (see note below)

 

Given the information defined, I will add lifts as normal (to the best of my ability).  The gaffs will also be rigged correctly with vangs and halliards as standard practice.  I will probably stop there.  Again, it is a model my Uncle always wanted to make so I need to contain myself.

 

I also looked at pics on line and saw the gaffs for the fore and main mast ride along a secondary much smaller diameter mast just aft of the mizzen and main mast.  This is not accounted for in the model at all.  Given the totally circular nature of the supplied wood (both masts and spars) I believe I will be scratch making these to reflect a more realistic look.  This will start with square stock.  This will be much easier when it is time to construct the three tier mast system as well as affix the spars.  More work but in this case I think worth it.

 

The kit also supplied:

     - 191 plastic deadeyes (one size)

     - 31 plastic single blocks (one size)

     - 20 plastic double blocks (one size)

     - 59 metal railing stanchions (one size)

I need to do some counting to see how this is reflected in the plan.  The plastic is well formed.  My first reaction is some painting and they will be just fine.

 

Stay Building My Friends, Mark

Jylland Line ID.pdf

Edited November 18, 2022 by kruginmi
Added component counts

[kruginmi]

Had over a foot of snow here in Michigan, pretty sore and tired from all the shoveling.

 

Decided to figure out the masting.  The supplied plans (as stated before) bore very little resemblance to any scale.  Luckily I had gone to Billings website and they allowed you to download the same view from their new kit - totally redrawn.  I also was able to download the instructions which had an spar diagram - very key to my plans.

 

I measured the mainyard off of the plans and it was exactly 12cm.  The instructions called for a mainyard size of 30cm.  Thus, a scale factor of 2.5.  I was very suspicious because the numbers were too easy but it played out.

 

The key information I needed to understand was overlaps (mast heads), cheek sizing, as well as how much of the mast is above deck.  I can then easily calculate full mast heights and get things into proportion.

 

I measured out all the key pieces of the masting (main mast data below) and I now have in hand all the measurements I need to draw this out.  I am also looking through on-line pics to get construction details and identify details not present in the model - like the independent gaff mast on the fore and main mast.

 

I intend to scratch build these.  I will make 1:1 scale drawings on my drafting table so I understand the relationship and can measure directly off of plans.  I will definitely start with square stock for all to allow mimicking of actual construction.  A side effort but one that will pay off handsomely.  I will actually use the metric measurements.  For this old Standard guy that will be different.

 

I also need to redraw all the backstays / shrouds on my main plans to conform to the new Billings plans.  These actually make sense.  This will cause me to relocate the lower deck gun ports but now is the time to do it.

-Mark

Edited November 20, 2022 by kruginmi
Need to ID overlaps

[kruginmi]

I have started sanding the bulkheads but today I wanted to relax at the drafting table.  So I got my area setup to figure out the masting puzzle of the Jylland.

I had bits and pieces of information, all at different scales (not shown) along with tourist photos that always just misses that area you wanted to look at.  Some revelations were had - for instance the fore and main mast have a pole mast behind the mast for the gaff.  This was found in the pics, because the plans don't show them at all.  I did the cardinal mistake of 'assuming' how this was fitted.  I finally found a side view (surrounded by scaffolding) that showed this pole did not go to the deck.  It had an external mounting between the 1st and 2nd quarter of the mast.  Well, that is a first.

 

After a lot of looking at the information I had, scratching my head, then looking at the Mondfeld 'Historic Ship Models', Lees 'The Masting Rigging of English Ships of War' and finally Volume IV of Antscherl's 'Rigging a Sixth Rate Sloop of 1767-1780' I came up the Krug approach.  Complicating matters is that this is a ship of 1860 that is in transition.  Lots of metal and steam power.  I came up with the following for the main mast:

I did not draw in the iron hoops but do intend to replicate them.  Any suggestions on anything with the main mast? 

 

Still lots of drafting to do.  I want to replicate for each mast and spar.  Looking at the supplied wood for the masts and spar I know I made the right decision.  It would have looked so different (like a basic model).  For me this is the way to go.

Mark

Edited November 25, 2022 by kruginmi
Clarify suggestions for whole design

[kruginmi]

Got up early and decided to get the topmast and t'gallant mast knocked out (get something done every day possible).

 

This is perfect example of the questions I have. 

The topmast cross trees as defined come off of museum ship photos.  The kit equivalents are SUPER simplified (old and new plans).  Additionally, the museum ship does not have deadeyes for the t'gallant shrouds.  Are they simplified because what is seen today is something post 1870?  Are the deadeyes removed because of the state of the mast and to remove weight?  So many questions haha. 

 

At the end of it, I will have to make decisions and move on (this is not a scratch build - LOL).  If anyone has any behind the scenes knowledge let me know.

 

Next up are the spars.  First question right off is that there are no sling cleats.  This is a transition ship with a lot more metal.  I believe these went away in the mid 1800s.  I will do the best with the knowledge I have.

Cheers, Mark

[kruginmi]

Final for today.  Now just to replicate for the fore and mizzen masts (well, bowsprit also).  With these defined it will be easy to define the backstays.  Defining the backstays will allow me to identify where the above deck cannon ports make sense.  An finally the top deck cannon ports and chain plates will help identify the gun tier cannon port locations.  All connected together.

Plus, my favorite part is I no longer have to measure using a ruler.  It is all there for direct reference.

Note:  This mast is almost directly vertical.  The fore is actually canted forward and the mizzen canted aft. 

2nd Note:  Looking at one pic I did find the sling cleats.  Well, actually it is a single wedge to contain the chains from slipping.

Mark

[kruginmi]

On to the foremast and more questions / observations.

 

The main mast section worked out to be 24m or 78.74ft in height.  The fore mast section was a tad shorter at 22.3m.  The size of the head, however measured the same.  Even the tops were exactly the same size (even in new kit - referred to as same part #).  I would have thought they would have been reduced proportionally.  As a note the mizzen mast head and top is reduced in size (mast section only 17.75m).

 

This certainly makes it easier to build (make everything 2x) I am just wondering if it is indicative of the real ship.  With all the information I have access to I will go with what I have. 

Unfortunately the only info I have on the tops is from tourist pics from behind and below (not one from forward looking aft LOL).  I have done the best with the information I have.  The crosstrees are equivalent to the main drawing and is not repeated.

Mark

[kruginmi]

Foremast plan out complete.  Only have the mizzen and Bowsprit assembly to do.  I will be glad when all the math and look ups are complete and I can just measure directly from the plans at hand.

 

I had proportionally modified the location from the main mast of the bottom of the gaff pole as well as the front fish.  Upon reflection I think the optics of them aligning makes more sense so set them to the same height as the main mast.  I have no tourist pics of the mid to bottom of any mast.

 

Another interesting detail was the plans showed a 14mm forward slant of the mast when measured at the top of the t'gallant mast.  When I measured this out it was a 1-2 degree angle at the deck level.  The concern was if I needed to angle the mast caps and trestles.  I will put the angle into the mast itself but think it is so minimal no slanting of the tops will be necessary.  In fact, I wonder how many people will comment that the mast looks tilted (and thus wrong) haha.

 

[kruginmi]

Finished the Mizzen and bowsprit assemblies.  Lots of changes here from the model plans to conform to the ship as currently seen in the museum.  I am very glad to get all my decisions down on vellum so I have a single source of Krug truth.  No using rulers, take lengths / diameters directly off plan.

Next up is a re-visit of the hull plans.  I based the cannon ports and chain plate locations based on the plans as provided in the kit.  I have made 'changes' since then.  In particular I can now absolutely identify the mast head locations and get the angles of the shrouds and backstays correct.  Lots of erasing (I really don't want to re-draw the entire hull).  Plans are just for me so I will look past the shadow marks.

 

THEN I can start planking.  A large but necessary detour.

Stay Building My Friends, Mark

[kruginmi]

Felt inspired so I reworked the cannon ports / shrouds to work with the improved masting.

Definitely some issues with proportionality of the original kit.  By moving the aft upper deck back to reflect what is seen on the museum ship the deck furniture is a bit 'off.'  I originally focused on the ports with respect to the closest mast and had an issue.  An easy fix that looked great was to add another lower tier cannon port each side (total 16) but thought I would do harm to future rivet counters LOL.  Their head would absolutely explode.

 

So.....I put the cannon ports in first (the correct number) then put the shrouds/backstays in to fit around them.  Actually turned out really well - and I saved lives in the process.

 

Next up is actually planking (with a solid plan). 

Cheers, Mark

[kruginmi]

Well, planking has started. This top run is important since it will allow me to add the bulwark stanchions required.  This will be build up alongside each frame. 

This is a methodical operation but expect to have it closed up (with all necessary mods that requires - like installing blocking for mast holes and bulwark stanchions) by New Years.  I am a big proponent of removing stresses in the wood and not relying on glue (anyone else have thoughts of quieting sipping coffee and then hearing a large pop as one of the planks on the just finished ship model rips itself off the hull?).  This also tremendously helps the gluing up process - you use gentle pressure just to hold tight against the frame.

 

This process is not that hard, especially with flexible wood being used.  I hold the plank under running hot water (not boiling, not steam), use a paper towel to remove excess water than clamp the wood to its destination and leave to let dry (usually at least 3 hours).  After this time the clamps are removed and the wood has taken the shape of the bend required.

Now it is a simple matter of adding wood glue where appropriate and clamping as necessary to insure a solid fit.  I try for 4 strakes a day (2 each side).

Stay Building my Friends, Mark

[kruginmi]

I will re-iterate that this hull will be smooth, the planking is not evident at all.  This is a matter of getting the hull enclosed.  Wood filler (as little as possible) will be used to fill any imperfections and all will be sanded.  As such no attempt is made for sizing planks to 'accurate' widths and/or lengths.  The stern will also be done using blocks sanded to shape to replicate the extreme bends found there.

 

Additionally the bulwarks are enclosed both externally and internally.  That I am adding the bulwark stanchions besides the bulkheads will in no way be evident and makes for a much easier build.

Cheers, Mark

Edited December 10, 2022 by kruginmi
added note about stern blocks

[kruginmi]

Wood is so much better than plastic.  I love the opportunities you have.  So many are intimidated by planking but with a little patience and fixing things as you go you can get a great looking hull.

 

I knew my kit supplied bulkheads were wonky.  There were no hull lines provided so it was all I got.  I spent a lot of time correcting the center line of the bulkheads (slot cuts made by Billings were way off) as well as focusing on getting the deck correct.  I left the mirror aspects of the actual lines to now for the most part.  I got the first plank on the starboard and focused on the line I wanted to achieve.  When dry, I cut a template of this run out of cardboard as I thought, the port side off.  Not by much but enough for me to notice (green arrows).  These are magnified so it is not the Grand Canyon.

It is so easy to fix.  Simply grabbed some planking scraps, cut to bulkhead width and added these to the bulkheads.  It was more than enough wood so this was followed by sanding to get the bevel angle back.  I don't worry too much about sanding the rest of the bulkhead - it will get refined as I work down (or up) the hull.

Give it an hour or two to dry and after sanding the cardboard template fit great and I just went ahead and glued the plank into place.

Each plank is used a defined control surface for putting in the next plank.  You make sure the first is correct (both sides of the hull) then measure off of this to insure the next is correct.  Lather, rinse and repeat.    -Mark

[kruginmi]

I am going to blow some minds here.  I have drawn and re-drawn the shroud lines for the main mast several times.  I have attacked from several angles:

1.  The gun tier needs to have 15 gun ports with an additional central boarding port and also a forward port.  I determined the start and completion of these and through some math and location of the masts in reference to figured out the spacing.  I used the new plans as guidance but also the museum ship with on line photos.

2.  There are 4 main deck cannon ports just aft of the main mast.  I again figured out the start and finish and roughed in the last two from a visual point of view.  I also referenced the deck view of the actual cannon and located them to the deck features.

3.  Now for the tricky part.  There are 8 main shroud lines and 4 other.  The 8 main need to be anchored just below the lower tier cannon ports and allow the ports to open.  The remaining 4 anchor above the lower tier ports.  However, all need to allow the upper tier ports to function (but no lids).

 

I have made modifications to the original plans by moving the aft upper deck partition back behind the mast as seen in the museum ship.  The original plans had squeezed the cannons and shroud lines into the remaining space and were very compressed:

The new plans (free downloadable at https://www.billingboats.com/index.php/modelboats-footer/83/120/boats/the-expert/P-bb5003-jylland )  had this area spread out but blocked off the lower ports:

I could not replicate what was seen on the museum ship while adhering to the rules above AND have it visually look right.  So........I opted to draw them in as they made sense with the setup I had.  Space wise fore and aft they line up pretty well with the museum ship.

I have to locate the cannon ports (both upper and lower) before I proceed with the planking. 

 

Another good conundrum is compare the walkway from the old plans to the new (just forward of the main mast).  The new shows much lower and is held up by the bulwark (as seen on the museum ship).  The older plans show a metal leg structure holding it up.  Did they change it because of the museum visitors and less chance to walk into it?  Did it rust away and this was the easy replacement?  No idea at this point.

 

This seems like a good compromise for the information I have.  My out of the box build is anything but haha.  Having a lot of fun though.

Mark

[kruginmi]

So let me state the process a little easier:

1.  I located all the lower gun tier ports insuring the spacing and optics looked right.

2.  I located the upper tier ports off of deck furniture alignment and visual spacing.

 

The resultant alignment between the two rows of cannon ports did not allow the main stays to be installed as the plans indicated (either old or new).

 

I have not checked the length of the model but would not be surprised to find it out of whack with reality which would skew the lower ports. 

Mark

[kruginmi]

Drew onto the false deck the location of the deck furniture but also cannon ports on the edge.

This diversion was required to understand how / where I can put the bulwark stanchions.  In the next pic you can see (starting from the left) I can do either side of the bulkhead, next only the left, and for the third I will need to add an extender to the bulkhead to clear the deck access port.

Another important piece of the puzzle is that I firmly identified where the aft deck ends which will define the aft deck wall (just aft of the mast).  I need to get that constructed and affixed.  Additionally where the under deck mast blocks need to be added prior to drilling.

Mark

Edited December 22, 2022 by kruginmi
Clarification of aft deck ending, not wall location

[kruginmi]

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays from a cold, snow swept Michigan!

[kruginmi]

In amongst all the things to do at our house, I am getting anywhere from 2-4 full length planks affixed (each length cut into 2 pieces for fitting).

My process is to go downstairs fit one piece of a plank by defining shaping the end fit against either the fore or aft beard line.  I work out how many wand what type of clamps to use to hold it firm.  I then go up and soak the plank in hot water under the tap.  Then it gets put in place, clamped down and left for about 2 hours to dry.  After 2 hours I remove from the clamps and the shape has set.  I then put wood glue down on the bulkheads where it connects, add clue on the mating edge and clamp down.  Given the wood has been shaped and there is very little to no stress pulling it off the bulkheads, after 2 hours the clamps can be removed and proceed to the next piece. 

 

Depending on location you could do 2 1/2 pieces at a time.  I will state I stagger the bulkheads where the joins occur but do match these up port / starboard.  I am getting a pretty tight fit but don't sweat if a little gap occurs.  This is a smooth sided ship so the it will eventually be just one solid shape.

 

I did pick up the wood filler I will use (as sparingly as possible) once the planking is complete.  It is a water based product.  The reviews are good and I got it at a wood specialty store.

Lather, rinse, repeat.  No rush.  It is amazing how fast this comes together.

 Mark

[kruginmi]

I should state that though the appeal of sanding as you go is a strong pull, I would resist.  I do scrape / sand to remove excess glue squeeze out at the plank joins but nothing else until the hull is completely enclosed.  On prior projects I got too exuberant and ended up thinning out plank edges and such which really showed up when the next plank was added.  Plenty of time for sanding later.

[kruginmi]

Top 3 planks and bottom 2 on both sides.  Wood quality is 'ok.'  If I wasn't adding wood filler I would have replaced.

 

Now to take a break (while I still can get my hand inside) and get the lower tier gun ports marked and cut out, the bulwark supports in and the blocking for the masts / deck openings put in.

 

All of the initial prep and plan drawing has paid off.  Obviously some sanding in the future but the shape is coming in.

Mark