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  1. Still have some time on my hands (haha) so worked up the detail page for the hull innards. Still a few notations to make but the pieces, dimensions and how they fit together should make sense. The only other page I 'have' to make is one showing the outside / finished details in both profile and deck. I have already worked these up on separate drawings. These four pages and the rigging book should document my build adequately. Hopefully highlight the last page in a couple of days. Also need to ponder the imponderables and think what I could add. Like I just thought a good rear design drawing is needed. Stay Building My Friends - Mark
  2. After some very focused effort I have reached a good conclusion (until I start seeing all the errors LOL). Still have some annotation to do (copper wraps and such) but pretty happy right now. The GAFF and Main Boom: The Yards: Finally a look at the whole thing: And yes, Eamonn, will be looking for making some copies and probably hang one at work at least. After putting in a title block. Mark
  3. Current updated plan status. Advice / comments welcome. The big issue I had was the inability to properly give diameters correctly. Lengths are easier to show at this scale. So I tried to draw them better (within the tolerance available) but also provided the full size dimensions at key areas. There are also areas that they use alternate methods to build (such as the yard arms) that yield discrepancies with 1800 build practices. For each case I weight the pros and cons. Most of the time I tweek to look more original (I have changed the whole lower hull for Pete's sake LOL). Cheers - Mark
  4. I have been doing some quality control checks. First issue is how to capture the correct diameter dimensions. In 1:48 scale 3" is 1/16 inch. So I decided to add a table per masting piece defining key actual dimensions. This does impact the drawn sheet - where and how to put. Secondly some of the added information looks confusing to me at first glance. Now that it is in front of me I have a bunch of "Wish that I had done it another way." Third, looking at the actual pics of the ship I see additional details that contradict the actual plans that I didn't see before. For instance, where the yard arms transition from octagonal to circular. So....on to version 2, I am going to redraw this sheet. No wasted effort, it is a process. It will be worth it in the end.
  5. Working through the data. I have the original ship plans but a number of things have been replaced / upgraded and/or changed. So you use the original data as a start, then figure out everything else. I still discover things seemingly every time I look at a photo I have taken. Biggest a-ha for me is the amount of wrap (copper and leather) used to keep chaffing and wear to a minimum. Never had thought about it in depth before. Makes a lot of sense, but most buried under rigging and never seen. The masting will definitely fit on a 18 x 24 inch piece of paper. This will make duplication pretty straightforward. Still need further work on the main mast, main boom and gaff. And now that I look at them, probably need titles for each component (for people not as sophisticated as us - haha).
  6. It is getting real people. How many find drafting relaxing? I really enjoy this part.
  7. Thanks Mark. Really hoping some places around here will be open by the weekend. Time will tell. Enough work to do on other things in the meantime. -Mark
  8. Well, if I didn't know better I would think I know what I am doing LOL. I finally have a sheet of bulkhead plans that I am confident with for posterity. I cleaned up my drafting table prior and filed quite a stack of previous designs getting to this point. Pretty happy with that. Also uncovered my early on profile shot. The masting is all drawn out and triple checked on a separate drawing. What is seen here is pretty close. A pretty good day on my day 'off'. Found out my supply of 3/16" wood is only good for a couple of full bulkheads and currently have no way to get more easily. I might work on consolidating the masting designs onto a similar sized sheet for copying in the future. I also need to create a good Title Block for each page. Stay Safe, Mark
  9. Well, it has been a long time coming, but I think I have the outer hull dimensions complete with good tracings to use. Now to forge ahead and start getting these full bulkheads cut out. Also, on the off time, make up a good set of plans for the future.
  10. On to the next step of actually building a full hull (though POB). I need to use the frames on the 1/2 hull as templates for the full hull. However, they only show half a frame. Can't flip them over because they are beveled. You could do a bunch of drawing and meticulous duplication or.......make templates. Templates make sense for a number of reasons - need an accurate portrayal of what was built, need to transfer to plans, need to transfer to at least one build, need to remake bulkheads that are screwed up (highly likely). So I took some 1/32" basswood and traced both the forward and aft of each frame onto it. Then I cut close to the line. To finish, I affixed to the frame itself and sanded to shape. For the purists, yes, this introduces a 'small' inaccuracy, however it is well within the tolerances I find acceptable. The reason the deck side was not beveled was to allow these two templates to be aligned exactly in the ‘y’ direction. When you overlay these two templates the bevel introduced is readily seen: This gives you a great indication of what will be required sanding wise. Each frame will be handled this way, then the biggest template for each frame can be used on both sides of a centerline to truly mirror image the frame. The power of my 1/2 hull construction can be seen in its deconstruction: Using the designed bulkhead spine I have also rubber cemented the requirements onto the 1/8" board: It will take a little time to get all these templates knocked out but using 1/32" basswood is pretty fast. Hoping in the next day or two to start getting some full bulkheads cut out and slotted. -Mark
  11. All basswood Eamonn. Wood frowned upon by many people for this hobby but it can be found (milled) in a few stores around here (in normal times). Knowing its strengths (and weaknesses) can lead to successful use. I pick up a piece here and there to spread out the cost over time, only way I could do this hobby. Druid is 96% basswood. I do have a limited supply of boxwood for the more detailed carving pieces (trim, figures, etc). It is nice to be able to run out if you are short a piece or two I agree. Mark
  12. Realizing you have no idea what is in the basswood stash. So pulled out the big pieces and organized. this does not include the containers of smaller pieces.
  13. Interesting question I had was how to draw this profile. I basically considered it a slice right through the middle of the boat. However, a side effect of this (with the deck camber) is that the railings shown should be reduced in height by about a planks height. If you look at the top of the quarterdeck you can see the delineation of the planking, then the false deck, then the underlying fore and aft bulkhead. By lowering the railings it would look like the railings are not on the same level with the quarterdeck which would be in error. Interesting. An option would be to omit the railing entirely but that might lead you to think the main deck was just like the quarterdeck (just flush). Just as the top down view shows a width to the widest point, which depending on the tumblehome, can be in a variety of locations. Drawing a set of plans for the first time has been very enlightening and I have a greater respect for the process. I think this reliance on just one view sometimes led to the issues I identified (and fixed) with the prototype. To jump start the bearding line I drew the main keel a plank's width below the lowest part of the bulkheads. The primary bulkhead will be an 1/8" while the keel will be 1/4" thick. My thought is that this will make planking cleaner. In fact, all planking can be done prior to the affixing of the keel itself (remember POB). Question: Should I keep it like this or move the thickness of the keel up to the bulkheads to allow the bulkhead to have the bearding line custom cut?
  14. Next step is to capture all the deltas in a new profile drawing (to include false deck and planking). It is important that all the prototype measurements align with this capture (as much as possible - there is a deck slope port and starboard). Once satisfied, I will start capturing the bulkhead profiles. These will include fore and aft profiles per (capturing bevel amounts). This will be the master to create the exploded component view - keel, fore&aft bulkhead, and eventually slot depths. Whoops - Forgot to add the false keel. Probably raise the height of the aft stem more into the hull (specific name escapes me at the moment).
  15. Alright, think I am at the end of the road for this prototype. All outer bulkhead bevels added and the blocks shaped fore and aft. I am not beveling the deck portion on this build. I did have to add a 1/16" skin to a section of one bulkhead but other than that, everything worked out. The blocks I kept putting off thinking they will require lots of carving, sanding and other. In my mind they had grown into 1" by 3" by 5" monsters. The truth very different. Pretty straightforward. I might add some dowels through the keel to keep it in place. -Mark

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