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  1. I was astounded and very pleased to see and read your input on the Artesania Latina "Harvey" model. I obtained a rather broken down and poorly assembled model from an antique store and purchased it thinking that it would be okay for parts. I was working on another model and did not have time to deal with it for several months. Once I started to disassemble the model I became intrigued and although I discovered that although it was a fictitious ship, it nevertheless was still an interesting example of a topsail schooner. Having an interest in schooners I began researching going over the plans and seeing how accurate the model was. As you discovered, the kit has some serious flaws. I then decided to use the model as an experiment and a way to hone my building skills. As I got into it I realized that I needed to almost disassemble the model, redo much of the previous rigging and reassemble. I didn't want to put much time into it but felt I could bring it into reasonable shape and donate it to an auction for a non-profit charity. As time went on I began to understand more about schooners and soon discovered I had to change many items on board including the windlass, cannons, rudder and tiller changes, mast hoops, "pennant pole" (on the bowsprit), capstan placement, cabin size, "latrines", the launch and deck positions. After about two years of periodic work I came about your entry in MSW and was very pleased that others agree with me and it seemed I was on the right path. I am putting together photos of some of the alterations perhaps publishing them in MSW. I find your work outstanding and thank you for publishing them. My email is ken@nwartmall.com and would appreciate any feedback you may want to send me. The attached photo shows the deck fittings just placed for show and not secured because I need to work out a few logistics including where to place the capstan. I like your placement because it really makes sense. Much more work to do!1224563190_Cannons12221.thumb.jpeg.2896ed02b5ec2cdb8ced14bcf9fe90ab.jpegIMG_7631.thumb.jpeg.3d774a0e9dd305c41f2c9c681dfd42c1.jpeg

    ship as of 4221.jpg

    1. kruginmi


      Hey Ken, thanks for the msg.  Been working a lot off line.  My big job is rigging the Lady Anne as the Pride of Baltimore is rigged.  As is said often, find what makes you happy and go in that direction - no one to please but yourself.


      Your model looks great and am sure will only improve.  I had the deck furniture only placed for a long time as I kept moving things around, but finally glued'm down. 


  2. Worked on first of two main mast stays (both port and starboard) - pretty happy with the result. After I get the port one fashioned up will probably need to start on the ratlines. Not too many. Had to find (make) my 'Put'r There 3000' for actually rigging - especially to tie them up at the cleats. With the meat hooks I have for fingers only way to go. My essential tools in addition to this for rigging are two fly typing clamps (need more), hemostats and my vise for holding the clamps when possibly. Could also throw in my magnifying glass(s). Peepers just aren't the same as before. I am approaching this rigging as have some fun while doing stuff. So.....while I do look at suggested rigging thicknesses I also look at my supply and choose what I think would work. Having the blocks on hand showed the ones I chose that had to go through the blocks had to fit. Color selections are entirely on me (very liberating). I did decide early on that I was going to settle on two sizes of blocks from Syren for ease (and cost). My calculations over the whole ship showed 186 blocks required (single, double, triple - both sizes). The 1/8" were the smallest I wanted so therefore that and 3/16's were the answer. Having fun so will keep at it, -Mark
  3. I need to up my game as I go forward. Currently Going through entire Ashley book of knots to ID potentially useful knots that I can use at scale. Then will make a cheat sheet for use. First question is how best to attach blocks to bolts affixed in deck (limited access) for last remaining backstay. Pondering snipping small gap at base to allow slipping on stropped block constructed off ship. Mark
  4. Thanks Martin. Thinking about the diluted white glue. Will see how it looks. thread type made a huge difference Mark
  5. I know the twisting is a common issue. I have tried quite a few things today, insuring the tension is uniform across all 3 threads, no thread is caught up in its hole, etc. I even wet the threads to see if any small fuzz was hampering. One thing I did find interesting is that if I do get the tension just right (basically very little) (or very slack) the deadeyes will align themselves correctly. However the shroud is quite loose. If you pull up on the shroud the upper deadeye will immediately start twisting around 1x, 2x, etc. Release the tension and it returns to the original startup. I know wood and most things hull, but this rigging stuff is a learning curve. I need to figure this out before I proceed. I am going to try some different thread and see if that helps any. BINGO: went with a same diameter but more 'waxy' thread and everything is behaving as it should. It makes sense but can't say I totally expected this. Phew. I need to redo all the shrouds but that is okay. Better product in the end.
  6. Question: When rigging dead-eye to dead-eye, the upper dead-eye rotates to the side where the initial knot is formed. This causes, by the end, sometimes to be 180 degrees rotated from the desired position. I have been very careful to insure no twist is in the tie off line itself and everything is kept taught (but not overly so). This twist becomes more apparent the farther the deadeyes are positioned from each other. Any help for me out there? I will use a wood pole as the first ratline and could force correction with this, but am trying to work this out prior. Thanks, Mark.
  7. My view is that the 'Harvey' configuration is the default basic kit way to recreate the look (less complexity). When the rigging in total is viewed, you can definitely make this assumption. The running backstay seems more accurate and befitting such a ship so that is what I will use. For the orphaned deadeye I will just punt and wait until all the standing rigging is complete and then ponder what would look best. Thanks for the comments! -Mark
  8. So...coming up to a decision point and I throw it out for suggestions on what course to follow. The original 'Harvey' had two (2) fixed backstays off of the foremast. This was built before the grand awakening and change of direction. These directly attached to the two fixed points above the mast cap The 'opportunity' before me is that on the Pride of Baltimore II they only used one, with the second backstay being a running variety and fixed inboard of the bulwarks. I do have these connection points established on the hull. So what do I do with the second backstay deadeye? My current thoughts are to go with the PoBII configuration and not use the deadeye. I will have to throw some rigging on it to connect to the railing or something to avoid the inevitable - "Looks like you forgot something" (hey - actually think someone will look closely at this when done haha). My rationale is that this is a working ship and each captain has their own druthers on rigging. So.....the latest guy decided he liked a running backstay better. I could also just remove the deadeye and leave the hardware (damage at sea? LOL). Any other thoughts out there? -Mark
  9. Alright, I need to know. How do you accomplish such nice rigging tie offs? I need an Eamonn intervention. My threads tend to go every which way except for where I need them (like evenly moving up the shrouds above the deadeyes). Teach me your ways..... The bigger the blob the better the job doesn't always apply LOL. Mark
  10. Hey Eamonn, have to get to it while the iron is hot. Had some time off from work so just started. I can't promise so much activity all the time haha. Picked up a Stratocaster guitar and working to learn that. So many hobbies, so little time. All the best to You Eamonn, Mark
  11. Hey Keith, born and raised in Plymouth currently in Grand Rapids. Went to UofM back in mid-80's. Love the Western side so much more than the Eastern. Mark
  12. Moved on to the Fore-mast. Of course the chain plates had more eye-bolts in them so the jig couldn't be used the same way. So...time to adapt. I clamped to the bulkhead on the deck side. Then the process remains the same. It seems as soon as you get good at something, it is time to move on (haha). I have a few backstays still to go. Then came the all important check: are the masts in line and appear to be perpendicular to the deck...... I can live with that result. Stay Building My Friends, Mark
  13. So this happened today. So much for removing the main mast for storage, guess I am committed now LOL. Next up is the fore mast. Funny how in the mind these shrouds took on the aura of the Victory, with seemingly thousands of ratline knots to tie. This is a LOT easier. Besides, every fifth run will be a wooden rod making it even easier. -Mark
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