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robdurant

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About robdurant

  • Birthday 03/29/1979

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  1. Great start Hope you won't mind me pulling up a chair and sitting in on this build. I used Original Marquetry for my boxwood and they were really helpful (even ringing up to check details on the order), and the veneer seemed to me to be very good quality. I found it pretty tough to get it to sit flat on the hull as I put down the second planking, but that was my skill level, not the wood's fault! There's less wriggle room than with the thicker planks. I don't regret using it. It has a really lovely colour.
  2. Hi David, Many of the ideas are from other builds on this great forum, so I can't claim them for my own, but please do take whatever you find helpful and use to your heart's content. I'm very glad to hear that the software is proving a help as well. I look forward to seeing lots of updates as you progress. Diana makes up into a stunning and very impressive model! Thanks Rob
  3. Okay - the new video describing the functionality in v1.0.5 is now live... and since then I've updated it to v1.0.6, which also brings support for GIF, TIFF and Windows Bitmap (.bmp) files. https://www.durant.biz/pictureresizer/ Hope it's helpful. All questions / comments, welcome. Here's the video.
  4. More functionality. Version 1.0.5 is on the website: https://www.durant.biz/pictureresizer/ If you check the checkbox that says: "View each file individually before resizing", it'll come up with an image preview window for each picture that's going to be resized. In that window you have the option to manually rotate the image, and/or flip it horizontally or vertically. Then you can either resize that image, or skip it, and it will go on to the next image that's queued up to be resized. Again it doesn't make any changes to the origi
  5. I used one of these too. They certainly make life easier, and if marks are put regularly enough, you can make pretty good curves. I have a violin rib bender that I'm going to try this time round, which I'm hoping will be even quicker, and will leave no marks on the back (especially useful where you want to make concave curves, where the inside of the curve will be visible when fixed. Looks like you're making quick progress, and the 1.5mm lime will give plenty of room for sanding back any rough edges. [EDIT] scrolling back up I see that you've made lots more progress tha
  6. Thanks Bob, Hopefully I'll make it through, and perhaps if I take lots of photos, it will help others - or at least, help them avoid the mistakes I make
  7. Welcome to Modelshipworld - it's a really friendly place, and if you start a build log you should get a bunch of people willing to offer advice and encouragement.
  8. The next stage is to trial fit the bulkheads, checking that they are a comfy, but not stressed fit. This was remarkably easy - again the accuracy of the laser-cutting was great... When I tried putting in the wooden dowels they slid in really easily - one dowel was a little oval in cross-section, so I sanded it down, but the holes for the dowels were perfectly placed, and when sighting along the hull with the dowels in, I was thrilled to find the hull was really nice and smooth... (bulkhead fairing excepted) Lego was employed to check squareness. As HeronGuy noted, the dowels will m
  9. Well, it finally happened. Lockdown began in the UK, and I ran out of the rope I needed to continue with Ethalion... so, it was over to Stefano for a bit... The build begins with the parts for the false keel being taken out of the walnut sheet. These are laser cut and fit well. Here they are laid out... The angle on the cut was quite significant (I don't know whether it's more than on other builds, as I've only built CNC cut parts before. I didn't sand these down as they were a snug fit already, and I didn't want to make the joint loose. Instead, I glued it
  10. It could simply be because the lens on mobile phones are so wide angle. If the object is not in the centre of the shot they will have a curve to them. The solution can be to take the photo from slightly further away and zoom in a little. Then the subject will be further in towards the centre of the shot and will be straighter in the image. I've tried to put examples below... The first is taken at full frame (zoomed right out). This gives the biggest file, but as you'll see from the straight yellow line i added afterwards, the edges of the image are warped... making the ruler bend.
  11. I'm just starting to build the case for my Diana (Ethalion)... it was when I costed the clear plastic and realised it alone would be over 200 pounds itself that I realised I'd built a seriously large model (although crossing the main yard was a hint)... but cover it I will because already it's a challenge getting into the nooks and crannies to dust her and I have children who benefit from not having to edge round fragile models all day Vane, whatever you decide you're going to end up with a stunning fleet. Your skills are very evident in all your builds. Oboship... hav
  12. Wow. You're doing a wonderful job with this model, and at 1:96, too. Very impressive. The chestrees and fenders do add that bit of detail to the side, don't they, and you've executed them really well. They look like they've always been there.
  13. Hi all, A quick update. I've just released version 1.0.4, which has a couple of minor bug fixes and introduces application icons and a few other touches that will make the programme look nicer on your computer. Do uninstall the previous version first, then you can find the application here: https://www.durant.biz/pictureresizer/ v1.0.4 updates: * When you close the application it will now keep hold of your settings, and bring them up again when you come back. * The profile files now store the resize images option. * Application icons and inst
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