Elia

Hello shipmates, the three planks from the keel to the bulwarks are in place... I must learn to shoot nice photos On photo 7th there is a home made cheese pie in the oven . I would love to share it with you guys!!!
 
Cheers
 
Dimitris

Rowing & epoxy:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Matija

I started making  Pen Duick a few years ago and I had long break. Now I am making the deck, and I will show
pictures from the beginning.

Pen Duick was named since 1935, is a cutter drawn in 1898 by William Fife III, famous naval architect, and built in Ireland under the name of Yum.
With an overall length of 15.1 m and 10 m to the floating for 2.9 m of maximum width, it supports 160 m2 of sails.

 Since 1938, Eric Tabarly sailed on the Penduick bought by his father. The Penduick was restored a first time in 1958, to reinforce the hull by a thickness of polyester, then was rebuilt completely between 1983 and 1989. The mast is raised 20%.
She remains one of the most beautiful classical sailing ships.


drawings:
 

 

 
differences between  Yum  & pen Duick:
 

 


Images of the ship:

 

 

 

 
Pen Duick sailing - (scan from the book)
 

 
The scale is 1:20
The hull is made of wood - plywood ribs, maple, coated with epoxy resin.
Deck is made of pear wood, more shades.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers, Matija.

Time for another update.
 
It's amazing what a little extra time at the museum can do for progress!  Three strakes of planking completed already.
 
Here are some photos to show progress.
 
The first plank fitted!   I decided to start at the sheer strake as it's essential that the sheer line is accurately determined and the rubbing strake goes on over the planking on this ship.

 

 
Three strakes completed and she's really starting to look like a ship now.  The first batten will come off before the fourth strake is fitted.

 
The planking under the counter.  Only two strakes are visible here as the sheer strake butts onto the fore end of the counter rim frame.  On some luggers the after end of the planking is joggled into the rim frame like deck planking.

 
John
 
 
 

Thank you all for the kind words and all of the likes. It is very much appreciated.
 
Well I’ve started chapter 6 now and started working on the stern. To start I have to cut the transom out of
 some 1/32” plywood. I pasted the plans on and then cut it out with the scroll saw getting it close. I then
used various sanding tools to get it close to shape.
 

 
The windows were cut out using an x-acto and finished with files too.
 

 
Then the assembly was glued to the frame work.
 

 
That's it for now!

I’ve started working on the fancy molding on the transom. The molding is cut from 1/32” thick
stock and is 1/16” wide. The shapes were traced and then rough cut out with a scroll saw.
 

 
I then sanded them to their final shape. I then used a scraper to obtain the profile I wanted.
 
Here is where I’m at so far.
 

Thank you all for nice comments and likes.
 
More details of the finished model:
(sorry for the dust visible on photos)                                                         
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Greetings, Matija

Hello, thank you all for your likes and your nice comments. Tuesday update ... Some photos of the progress..
 
Cheers
Dimitris

Thanks Elia, I'm glad that you like my work (and to everyone else who likes).
 
Dories were difficult to make, I made them a total of twenty until I got a satisfactory appearance.
Bluenose is currently displayed at the national competition ship modelers in Rijeka / Croatia. It is located in the city center in the window: 
 
 
 
 
Otherwise, waiting for a new owner from Germany come get her. The future owner has prepared a large glass box (approximately L120x W30 xH110 cm).
 
Sails of paper to verify the dimensions:
 

 

 
Finished sails:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers, Matija.
 
next: details of the finished model

Ed,
 
It is so enjoyable to see your progress in the evening after a day at work. While the entire ship is a masterpiece, the complexity of the stern fascinates me most. The compound geometry of the framing, and the rails and planking, are rather intimidating to me. So very impressive.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia
 
PS I'll keep watching quietly in awe.

Ed,
 
It is so enjoyable to see your progress in the evening after a day at work. While the entire ship is a masterpiece, the complexity of the stern fascinates me most. The compound geometry of the framing, and the rails and planking, are rather intimidating to me. So very impressive.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia
 
PS I'll keep watching quietly in awe.

Ed,
 
It is so enjoyable to see your progress in the evening after a day at work. While the entire ship is a masterpiece, the complexity of the stern fascinates me most. The compound geometry of the framing, and the rails and planking, are rather intimidating to me. So very impressive.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia
 
PS I'll keep watching quietly in awe.

Ed you make all this complex joinery and planking look easy, but we all know it is not. great work.
 
Michael

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 99 – Rails and bulwark continued
 
Most of the work since the Thanksgiving holiday has consisted of fitting the rails and planking around the upper stern.  This has been challenging and there has been some rework along the way.  I will forgo a full tutorial and summarize.
 
The planksheer rail was fitting around the stern in an earlier post.  To fit the members above this and to refine its exact curve better, I decided to start at the top where the heights are easiest to measure as shown in the first picture - and to adjust if necessary.
 

 
The top of the planking around the poop corresponds with the top of the poop decking at the side.  This is also the top of the frames and the underside of the fancy rail that caps the bulwarks around the hull.  These heights are critical.
 
In the next picture the first strake of planking below the main rail has been boiled and clamped to dry.
 

 
The main rail was shaped to fit and is only pinned in place.  It will be painted white and the surrounding hull - and the lower rail -black, so it will not be permanently installed until much later.  The dark, saturated plank being fit is held tightly against it.  These planks not only curve around the stern but twist to fit the slant of the underlying timbers.  Lots of new clamps here made for this awkward work.
 
The next picture shows the third and lowest planking strake being fit.
 

 
The height gauge is being used here to check heights at points around the stern.  The lower rail has been removed for this.  The next picture showing the finished work is the acid test.  I’m not sure which was a bigger problem in judging this, my glasses or the camera lens, but this is the final version.
 

 
Both rails have now been replaced with newly formed, clean versions.  The originals suffered from all the fitting, clamping and refitting.  The next picture shows a different angle.  All this work was done in hard maple because it will be painted and it was easier to bend.
 

 
The main rail is still only fitted temporarily.  The planking is now ready for Treenailing.  There will be a carved, gilded America eagle placed between the rails.  I can’t wait to plank below the lower rail around the stern – more twisted planks and more clamping issues.  A job for the new year.
 
With the stern work completed the top members around the rest of the hull will be easy to fit.  In the next picture the mizzen channels are being installed.
 

 
The top channels are set at the height of the main rail and the lower channels just below the planksheer.  Notches for the chains will be cut later in situ.  The channels will be capped with moldings much later.  In the next picture the starboard main channel is being installed.
 

 
There is still much work to be done on the port side.  In the next picture a section of main rail is pinned in place and one of the topside planks held against it.
 

 
There are two of these 6” x 3” planking strakes above the rail.  They must fit tightly down on the rail and the channels.  The channels were most likely bolted to the outside of the planking to keep them outside the main watertight skin, but I am installed them against the frames to improve their strength on the model.  The appearance will be the same.  In the last picture the uppermost planking strake is being held in place to check its height against the tops of the frames.
 

 
A white capping rail – the fancy rail – will fit over this, but much later.  There is no inside planking above the main rail, so the fit on the frames will be visible.
  
Ed

Thank you Elia and all other, here are more photos:
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Cheers, Matija.
 
 
 

Dimitris,
 
Very nice start to impressive ship. Those first planking strakes look good, as does the keel rabbet. I haven't seen a build log of the ship so I'll enjoy watching this develop.
 
Cheers
 
Elia

Good morning , a little bit of progress...
The main deck it's in place with a wall that supports some superstructure.
Also the support pieces on the stern for the hull planking is ready.
I have started to glue the walnut strips to the main deck.
I will be grateful for any comments and suggestions...
 
Cheers
 
Dimitris

Some photos with the shaped pieces glued.

I finished shaping the pieces that support the hull planking.( After many tests with planking strips)  
Dimitris
 

Good evening ,i uploaded some photos showing the progress of the build.
 
Cheers
Dimitris
 
 

Hello to all!!
At last, Amerigo Vespucci has arrived! This is my second ship build.
First impressions: wood quality is better than that of my previous build and the manual, consists of 9 large sheets with general instructions (compared to the step by step manual of the previous build).
Attached you may find photos from unpacking the kit and first dry fit.
And now comes my first question:
Starting from the bottom of the keel, at which distance should I carve the rabbet  line?
 
Thank you in advance for your help
Dimitris

Thanks to all
 
more pictures:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Matija
 

Crowsfeet
 
The Crowsfeet prevent the topsails from chafing the lower stays, and also stop them from getting snagged in the tops.
 
I used Gutermann Quilting Cotton for these. It's not quite the same color as Chuck's running rigging line, but it is the closest match they make. This stuff is made from cotton and has a polyester coating which makes it a little more rigid than normal cotton - this makes threading it through tiny holes a lot easier. It also has NO fuzzies at all .
 
The line starts on the strop at the top of the euphroe and passes over the forward edge of the top and through the middle hole. Then it comes back up through the adjacent hole on the port side, down to the uppermost hole in the euphroe and through the top on the starboard side. These steps are repeated for the remainder. The last line is tied off to it's adjacent partner underneath the top.
 
It was a difficult job to get even tension on all the loops of line. I had to go back over all the loops a few times to get an acceptable result :
 

 

 
The euphroe tackle :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thank you Eamonn, George, Maury and Jan.
 
Catharpins
 
A rather tricky step in the rigging, I've fitted these before starting the ratlines as it gave me better access.
 
Some careful measuring was needed (along with a bit of trial and error) to ensure that the catharpins would just slightly pull the shrouds together when fitted. They also had to all be EXACTLY the same length. The eye splices also had to be taken into account.
 
First job was to serve the 8 pieces needed, leaving some extra length in the serving line that would act as a "splice". Then the eyes were "spliced" in a similar fashion to others I'd done before. The seizing lines were tied to each eye :
 

 
One end was loosely seized near the bottom of the shroud where it was a bit easier to do :
 

 
Then the unit was raised into position. I used a self-closing tweezer to hold the opposite side in position while I finished off the seizing. The foremast catharpins fitted :
 

 
  Danny

Shipwrights - a little progress on my dearest Arethusa.  Third time is a charm, at least for me and the yellow cove.  I redid one last section of it on the starboard bow, eliminating the last offensive (to me) waver.  Done.  Yipee!  I have added the ship's name and hail port in the appropriate locations, using Woodland Scenic Dry Transfer letters, and have repainted much of the upper hull black.  I have completed the checker board guide installations, the boom buffer, the cleats, the chocks, and the stanchion located ringbolts.  I have also installed guide pins for the deck furniture to ensure proper placement and to ensure better retention of the components.  It is surprising how much time all of those little elements time.
 



 
Though not show here in photos I have completed 16 of the 20 double wire strops for the deadeyes, have stained the deadeyes (Minwax Ebony stain), and have fabricated/soldered much of the catheads.  I hope to show all of these elements assembled in the not too distant future.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia