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Sonofagun

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Everything posted by Sonofagun

  1. I like epoxy myself. Mostly due to its far superior shear stregnth when compared to ca glue. I would hate to see some wood to metal bond in some later inaccessible area to be hit by an errant tool and be instantly unretrievable, not to mention impossible , to reinstall. I saw on another forum that epoxy, when the two parts are still separate, cleans easily with rubbing alcohol. When the two parts are mixed and still not hardened, they clean up with white vinegar. Have not tested this myself so if anyone is willing to try this with their next venture of epoxy use, let us know. You can buy small syringes, in some places, without a prescription (like insulin syringes) that could be used to draw up small amounts of the two parts for making epoxy, using separate syringes of course. Then wash out the syringes with rubbing alcohol.
  2. Just running through this thread and noticed someone had quoted an author as using turpentine or benzene to dissolve beeswax. Please note that benzene is a known carcinogen with any type of contact you may have with it. By the way, I use conservator's wax. Very easy to use. Will liquefy at very low temperatures. A little goes a long way.
  3. When faced with this problem previously, someone mentioned that scraping the char away with a single edge razor works well and removes very little wood. Tried it. It is a very good and efficient method. May seem a little daunting at first, but really, it is easy and takes almost no time at all. I did not, however, try gluing the charred parts together. I will be interested to hear the results of the tests.
  4. This completes a very well written pair of books. Very clearly demonstrates by word and pictures the methods the author employs to produce his excellent results. It is very easy to read and follows a good logical progression of assembly. In my humble opinion, it is right up there with the SWAN series! My computer lost the ability to open and read the included CDs so I am anxious to see the information on them! Could not agree more with the others that Mr. Tosti and the good people at SeaWatch Books did ship modelers a huge service by publishing these books.
  5. Hi bjoern, I looked up ayous wood on the Internet. It is not as dense as hard maple and not as rot resistant. It is also subject to staining from fungus. (but then Holly is also subject to staining and it is used in model ship building). Ayous is used in sculpture. It is not recommended for wood turning. Ayous wood has a density rating of 0.38, while hard maple's rating is 0.50, making hard maple more dense. So, I guess I would do a little more research, but it might be OK. Just know more about the wood and how you might have to treat it if you want it to last or if it is stable enough to invest your time to do your model in this medium or if you should hold out for another wood species. Hope this helps a little, Bryan
  6. Dan, Been following your build since inception. This is my first comment. She looks incredibly beautiful in every respect! I am envious of your cannon. I an doing mine now, as well as working on the capstans. I find the gun carriages a bugger. I have a jig but still so much fiddly work with so many pieces. Following your method on the capstans, so far so good! Your build log has helped me immensely! A big thank you! Bryan
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