Jeronimo

Hello friends,
 
mounting of the gun ports.
 
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  22

Hello friends.
Design, construction and mounting of ancher.
Karl
 
 
T e i l  21

Hello friends,
 
mounting of the gun ports.
 
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  22

Hi friends,
I try all the Pictures of my model "LE BONHOMME RICHARD 1779" to restore.
Regards Karl

Hello friends.
Design, construction and mounting of ancher.
Karl
 
 
T e i l  21

Hello friends.
Design, construction and mounting of ancher.
Karl
 
 
T e i l  21

Thanks for looking in Christian. BTW - there are four eyebolts immediately either side of the Main Mast and three on each side adjacent to it that should also be drilled and fitted before any work begins on the Pump Cranks. I'll drill these now and show you the updates later.
 
Hi all,
 
The final part of the Chain Pump setup - I've glued in the Pillars at the aft ends of the cranks. I was bumping and bending the aft ends of the cranks quite a bit, so I figured it was time to stabilize the whole structure. This meant fitting the 3rd Quarterdeck Beam as well :
 

 

 
My Aft Hatch is a little out of alignment - it's actually 2mm too short. I knew this a while ago - the problem is much further down. The Lower Well was slightly too far forward (2mm to be precise) and things further upwards had to be shifted to accommodate this. I'm not about to rip up two decks to fix an otherwise minor error properly .
 
  Danny

Yeah John, I'm pretty happy with the amount of work I did this weekend - especially with how detailed all this is .
 
Hi all,
 
The last couple of things for the Pumps - two Bungs, complete with handles, and the Latch that secures the Cistern Hood :
 

 

 
  Danny

Forward Stanchions, Cistern Hood and Pump Dale
 
Hi all,
 
The last few things for the Pump Assemblies (almost) - I've made the Forward support Stanchions, the port side Cistern Hood and the Pump Dale for the same side. None will be fitted to the starboard side.
 
The Stanchions support the forward ends of the Cranks :
 

 

 
The Cistern Hood is made from 1mm thick side pieces and 0.35mm boards over the top :
 

 

 
The Pump Dale is a removable item on the real ship - it would be a constant trip hazard otherwise. It is made from four pieces of 0.5mm thick timber, and attaches to the cistern via a board which can be lifted upwards :
 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thank you John and Grant - you ain't seen nuthin' yet .
 
Next trick was making the Chocks. The five lower Lower Capstan ones are 3 3/4" thick, the six lower Upper Capstan ones are 3 1/8" and both sets of upper chocks are 2" thick - keeping them separate was a trick .
 
The chocks taper inwards and are also bevelled for the scarphs. The upper capstan ones have a slightly different angle to the lower ones. I started by sanding one edge on the Byrnes disc sander using both the angle gauge and tilt table. Then I cut them all to width on the Byrnes saw using the angle gauge for the other edge, and freehand sanded the bevel into each one :
 

 

 
Then I glued the Whelps and Chocks to the Barrels :
 

 

 
 
I left all the chocks oversize on the outer edges at this stage. They will be turned down to size in the next stage :
 
 

 

 
  Danny

Capstans
 
The start of the Capstans. There are two of them - the Lower Capstan on the Upper Deck, and the Upper Capstan on the Quarterdeck above it. They are joined together between decks to work as one. I'm using English Box for all the components - some of them are quite small and require a very good timber.
 
The Lower Capstan Barrel has 10 flats milled into it to take 5 Whelps, and the Upper Capstan has 12 flats and 6 whelps. I decided to turn and mill both together for ease of setting up. They will be separated between decks for installation purposes.
 
I used the Dividing Attachment on my Sherline mill to cut the flats :
 

 

 
Then I turned down the centre portion :
 

 

 
I've also started making the Whelps. The ones for the Upper and Lower Capstans are of different sizes, there is also a corresponding difference in angles. I'm also using the Mill to cut the angles, with the aid of the Tilting Table :
 

 
  Danny

Thank you very much for the kind comments Eric and Frank .
 
Continuing on with the Capstan, the next job was to finish shaping the Whelps. Looking from above they form a wedge shape, with the outer edge 2" thicker than the inner. To cut these angles I made a wedge-shaped block of scrap timber which I lightly PVA'd to the underside of the piece that I'd Milled the faces to. I cut one edge on all 11 pieces, then I used Isopropyl to remove the wedge, let the alcohol evaporate thoroughly, and glued it back to the opposite side to cut the other angle :
 

 

 

 

 
After cutting them all to length I set the saw blade to protrude just 0.25mm above the bed. I carefully marked the positions of two of the Chock Scarphs in one each of the Upper and Lower Whelps (there is a slight difference in them), set the fence to the first cut and did all of them. Then I reset the fence for the other 3 measurements and cut all the remaining ones :
 

 
The two on the left in the pic above have only been cut on the saw. The two on the right have had the Mortices cut into them. I used a #11 Xacto to cut the angles - they were quite easy to do, owing to the saw cuts.
 
Another pic showing the wedge-shapes of the whelps :
 

 
  Danny

Hello friends.
Design, construction and mounting of ancher.
Karl
 
 
T e i l  21

T e i l  20

Hello friends,
new Pictures of the BHR.
Portions of Bowsprit, Foremast and the bumpkin.
(Auslieger des Fockhalses)
 
Regards Karl 
 
 
 
T e i l  18

Hello friends.
 
Galionsfigur, the figure /  preform I have not carved.
This exceeds my woodcarving.
 
Regards Karl
 
 
T e i l  12

T e i l  20

Hi philo426.
No, I did not these  professions.
I'm a master painter and master refinisher in retirement.
Karl

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the comments 
 
So how did I do it, the how-to was indeed like Jan noticed in the first picture. The divider was used to scrape a thin line evenly spaced from the bottom of the gallow. Multiple passes with very light pressure were needed to cut through the grain. In the middle the cut was done free hand.
 

 
Then I used a slightly blunted threading needle to make the molding, again multiple passes and the wood shaped nicely.
 

 
And yes Piet  I do have some miniature 0.4 mm chisels made from hypodermic needles and thin steel but I use them elsewhere
 

 
Remco

Hello Ken,  (BareHook)
answer the question.
Karl

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 98 – The Lower Counter
Posted 9/13/11
 
I doubt this part will generate as much interest as part 97 on the lid stops, but who knows.  Before getting to the lower counter framing and planking I finished up a couple of loose ends on the lower deck.  The first picture shows one of the iron standard knees in the area of the officers cabins, before bolting. 
 

 
The knee is copper blackened with liver of sulfur solution.  It rests on a “shole” on top of the decking, which is curved on its underside to fit the waterway.  The large timber to the right is a top rider and the notch to the left is a roughed opening for a ventilation scuttle.  These were covered earlier. 
 
The next picture shows the first steps in framing the lower counter and also the starboard straps on the lower ends of the counter timbers – also installed at this time.
 

 
 
First the sides of the ports were framed.  The helm port opening between the upper deck transom and the seat transom was filled in with blocking shaped to the counter timbers and the helm opening.  Below the upper deck transom the port is also blocked out to bed the counter planking around the helm port at this level.  The tiller will pass beneath the upper deck transom and upper deck beams and above the head of the sternpost.  The tiller and its apparatus will need to be installed with the deck beams so this work had to be done at this time.
 
The next picture shows this framing from the outside.
 

 
And the next picture shows it from aft.  It is still pretty rough.
 

 
 
The filling pieces around the helm port are somewhat speculative, but it is likely that chocks perhaps like these were used.  The planks needed to be bedded right up to the opening.  This picture also shows the framing of the lower deck ports that penetrate the lower counter.
 
The next picture shows the first of the lower counter planking being installed.  This will be done on the starboard side only, in keeping with the model’s format, which exposes the framing on the port side.
 

 
The next picture shows this planking well along – essentially finished.
 

 
 
The planking lines on the lower counter are not parallel because the round up and round aft of the wing transom is roughly half that of the touch of the lower counter.  So, the counter is broader at the center by 4 or 5 inches, requiring the planks to be slightly tapered at the outer ends.  The uppermost plank has its top edge right on the touch of the lower counter and it is modelled the full breadth.  A decorative molding will seat against this and be the base for the planking of the upper counter above it.
 
The next picture shows another view..
 

 
Before doing this planking the shapes of the counter timbers, particularly the pointed touch points were checked carefully against the drawings.  Once the exact touch points were marked, the counter shapes were given a final adjustment with a file and the planking was then brought right up to the lower counter touch line.  The upper counter has the same round up and aft as the lower, so that band will have parallel strakes.  The round up of the tafrail is more pronounced than the upper counter. That will come later, but all the points were checked at this stage. 
 
The last picture is another view.
 

 
The darker area is moisture from washing off the excess glue.  When the glue has set, the pins will be removed, the excess cut off this near side and the planks bolted and treenailed. 
 
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 96 – Outside Planking 3
 
While the remaining planking was getting installed, I started installing bolts.  My process here is to install all the bolts first, then go back and do the treenails.  In some cases the bolts will be placed so that some treenails are not needed.  The picture below shows an area with the bolting installed.
 

 
All the closeups have lens distortion.  Believe me that line of frames at the top is not curved up.  In this picture there are a few different bolts.  The double row at the bottom of the boxwood planking is for the lodging knees of the upper deck.  The two rows of four large bolts each slanting up to the right are for the internal riders.  On either side of each gun port there are three bolts, which on the inside will be eyebolts, a large bolt for the breeching, a smaller one on further out on either side for the training tackle and a smaller one above the breeching bolts for trussing the gun up.  In addition there is one bolt at the butt of each plank, except for the short planks between the ports.
 
In the next picture the highest strake above the ports is being fit up.
 

 
The two strakes aft of the quarter gallery door have yet to be installed.  After this plank is installed the opening will be filed up to the top sill.
 
In the next picture one of the last bow pieces is being shaped to a curve using the shaft of a small soldering iron to heat the concave side.
 

 
For this thin boxwood planking this is much faster than steaming, which is the approach I have been using on the thicker structural pieces or where some edge bending is needed.  This piece will fit above the bridle port and port number one.
 
The next picture shows it in place.
 

 
This is the last strake for now.  It fits right up under the knighthead and is flush with its forward face.  It was nice that this strake just fit.  There is still some finishing work to be done to clean up the stem and the ends of some of the planks.  The hawse holes were roughed out before these planks were installed, drilled with a smaller drill then filed open parallel to the keel with a slight downward slant..  they are not finished, but I wanted to get a hole through the planking.
 
In the next picture the drilling for the treenails is in progress.
 

 
More distortion. The pattern here is alternating between two nails and one nail in each frame along the plank with the pattern offset for adjoining strakes.  The bolting prevents the pattern from being completely uniform, but I suspect that was pretty much the result on the prototype.
 
The next picture shows the planking for this phase all installed, except for treenailing and some bolting.
 

 
The next picture is just another view.
 

 
These last wo pictures are pretty representative of the true colors of the different woods.
 
After finishing the treenails – or maybe sooner – I will be returning to the inside work.
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 95 – Outside Planking 2
Posted 9/1/11
 
Planking on the starboard side of the hull continued this week.  The first picture shows pieces between the ports clamped during gluing.  Planks are 3 ½” thick at this level.
 

 
The planking in the waist area is now getting close enough to the topside to allow normal screw clamps to be used.  The planks are being glued in with darkened glue and before being ripped off a wide strip one side of that strip was given a coat of light brown acrylic paint to help highlight the joints.
 
The next picture shows progress up to a few days ago.
 

 
In the next picture the excess ends of the planks are being removed with a #0 Barrette file.  This does not cut on its edges.
 

 
The next picture is a close up of the current state.  The planks have been leveled off and given a preliminary sanding.  Final sanding and polishing will await the treenailing.
 

 
The black bolts in the strake above the black strake are mostly bolts for the lodging knees of the upper deck, which runs at the same height as this strake in the midship area, dropping down below it as the ends are approached and the curve of the sheer becomes higher than the curve of the upper deck.  The two larger bolts in the center of the picture go into and through the internal riders.  The lighter fasteners are .019 inch bamboo treenails.
 
The chamfered corners of the top planking pieces in this picture will seat areas of increased width in the next plank up, as was done on some of the planks below the ports.  In general, this was done wherever the cut out plank width would have left less than half the original width.
 
The waist rail, a molded decorative rail will eventually be installed along the center of these ports – approximately at the height of the plank just above the sweep port in the picture.
 
The next picture is a close up from above the side at the waist.
 

 
The last two planks up in this area, not installed yet, will be thicker and joined at their ends with hook scarph joints.  They will Take the external planking up to the level of the strings and tops of the frames in the waist area.
 
The last picture shows the whole hull in its present state.
 

 
Cheers,
 
Ed

Thanks guys. Yes Carl time really fly's...
 
I'm working on the main topsail bitt's. The score's for the deckbeam and cross piece were scored on the table saw as well as several scores to mark the thickness of this piece. The rest was removed using files and sanding sticks. I used a special angled sanding tick to add the small sloped face at the bottom edge of the head.
 


 
 
Here they are test fitted next up is adding the shaves and the cheeks  I'm not sure if the bitt's were also bolted to the upper deck beam, I'll will do botls so I can register the bitts with some pins.

 
Remco

Thanks guys.
 
Now is also the time to dryfit the upper well. I had made this one two years ago.
 



 
Actually it didn't fit and some modification was necessarily, it was slightly to high but this was good as I also had forgotten to take the chamber of the deckbeams into account when I made the well. Removing wood is easier than adding
 
Now it looks like this.
 



 
 
I also made another set of hanging knees, nasty bits to make... I still need to get back into the flow of making beam, knee and ledges parts
 
Remco