druxey

Building Board, Keel Assembly, Stem, Deadwood, Knee of the Head, Mounting

Thanks Ben. With the hawse timbers in place, now comes time for the fwd cant frames. As I was looking for photo's to redo the log, came across some that I don't even think I put on the old log. It shows the fitting of the cant frame's but using a jig that Longridge did when he was building his Victory, in his book, the Anatomy of Nelson's Ships. You can see his jig on page 40. Mine is just a little bit different but the credit belongs to him.  Also one thing you will notice is that the hawse timbers have been sanded down and are now  smooth on the inside. With the build up of the cant frames, things were faired as more cant frames were added.The jig also helped me get the bevels right on the cant's them self. What  you can't see on the templates is the markes for the aligning up the placement of the frames them self's.

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 36 – Forward Magazine 4
Posted 12/31/10
 
 
By Christmas the deck areas of the forward magazine were pretty well completed. The next step was to construct the fore and aft waterproof bulkheads. The base structure for the forward bulkhead, which separates the filling room from the light room is shown below after the window was constructed.
 

 
These bulkheads were 2.5” thick, of planks that were lapped and then covered with 1.5” X 3” planks on top of the joints on both sides. Since the 2.5” plank joints would be invisible, the bulkheads were made from a single wide sheet of 2.5” boxwood.
 
The windows were made as follows: First the full opening was cut in the boxwood sheet. The main window frames were then cut and fit into place with a boxwood post in between the two main window panels – which are not the same size. A single rectangle of clear plastic sheet was then fit into each open space. I am not sure of the material. It was cut from the clear covers used on office binders. It is resistant to acetone and ethanol, but adheres to CA. Nice qualities. The outer frame of the window mullions, about 1” square, were then glued around the perimeter of each opening on both sides to retain the glazing. So far all this was glued with Titebond. The 9 vertical pane mullions were then cut and gently force fit into place on both windows. When spaced and aligned, the joints with the frame were touched with thin CA. Some of this, of course ran down between the verticals and the glass. When dry, a 1” notch was cut out of each vertical at the center to fit the horizontal mullion. This was then pressed in and the joints touched with CA. The windows were then cleaned as well as possible with acetone (for the CA) and ethanol (for the Titebond). They still look like they need a cleaning, but are not too bad considering where they are located.
 

 
In this picture the forward bulkhead is being test fit. The planking up the angled port side remains to be completed. I was not happy with the tub and it would soon come out to be replaced.
 
In the next picture the part of aft bulkhead base panel is being fit up.
 
 

 
It was then attached to the aft end of the assembly.
 

 
These bulkheads needed to be installed so the side panels and their stanchions as well as the partition between the pallet area and the filling room would have good support at their ends. In the next picture the supporting pillars for the aft bulkhead are being installed.
 

 
In the next picture the planking has been glued on up the port side and the forward bulkhead is being glued on.
 

 
During all these steps the assembly was indexed at its correct position using pins, two of which can be seen at the aft ends of the wing panels sills.
 
The next picture shows the whole assembly back on the bench.
 

 
In this picture the horizontal battens have been installed on the fore side of the aft bulkhead and both sides of the fore bulkhead, which also has posts to support the light room sides installed on its fore face. Two loose pallets have been placed in the area as well. The side planking has been leveled off and awaits treenailing.
 
The last picture shows the assembly back in place in the hull.
 

 
Before any further construction, the assembly needed to be attached to the orlop beams at the tops of the two bulkheads. This would provide a better means of indexing and would assure that final installation would fit well with both the orlop beams, which support the tops of the bulkheads, and also the magazine lower beams, which of course, need to fit tightly on the thickstuff below. Attachment to these beams will be covered in the next part.
 
Happy New Year
 
Ed

Hi Anja,
 
It works fine on my Mac and iPad. But what might be confusing is if a picture doesn't fit on the page it's moved to the next page but the box around it is showed on the previous page, suggesting a blank picture.
 
So the third big picture in part one is on page 7.
 
Okay, here's three little mast, the foremast is complete, I just need to blacken the bolts. And for the mizzen mast there is a span to be fitted, but I'm struggling the get a 2" rope served properly, still need to work on my skills there...
 

 
Remco
 
 

November 22, 2011
 

 

 

 

 

 
November 23, 2011
 

 

 
November 25, 2011
 

 

 

...more....

While completing Hannah I decided to start thinking about my next project.  I thought I would mast Hannah but after completing the fore lower mast it became obvious that this was too tall for my pre-existing display cabinets.  (I have all my ships in a large glass and mahogany cabinet rather than in individual
cases.  This arrangement is not air tight but takes up much less space. 
 
I decided to try my hand at a Swan class, a 16 gun sixth rate sloop.  There are several advantages to this selection:  the research has already been done, plans are available, the ship is not too large and (most importantly) there are four volumes of wisdom from David Antscherl and Greg Herbert.  I already own David’s Mylar plan and CD.  The next decision was which one of the ships to select.  There are kits for Fly and Pegasus.  Some of the ships had too few
plans available from the National Maritime Museum (NMM).  Therefore I selected Atalanta.  Atalanta was a Greek huntress and wrestler.  The most notable
story about her was that she agreed to marry the man who could outrun her in a race; but if she won, the suitor was killed. So much for mythology!

Atalanta did not have much of a career.  She was launched on August 12, 1775 from Sheerness dockyard.  She was involved in one action on May 28,
1781 and was captured by the American ship Alliance off the coast of Nova Scotia.  She was recaptured by the British off Cape Cod a few weeks later and was eventually sold and broken up in 1802.

I sent away for plans from the National Maritime Museum and ordered my wood from Jeff at HobbyMill.  I will be using Costello boxwood and possibly some other hardwoods for accents.  The wood is gorgeous.  Jeff has developed a wood package for a Swan build which will eliminate hours of “fun” at the thickness sander.  (Ask for an extra sheet of wood (scale 6") for the hanging and lodging knees unless you want to thickness down one of the thicker sheets.)

I do not have a lot of spare time but I am hopeful that I can complete the model within five years.  It will not be masted.  I have not decided about hull and deck planking.  I figure that I have a few years before I need to worry about these decisions!
 
Toni
 
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Author:  dvm27

Terrific choice, Toni.  For those unfamiliar with Atalanta there is a lovely model of her in the NMM built in the Georgian
style.  It may be viewed at:  http://www.nmm.ac.uk/collections/explire/object.cfm?ID=SLR0340&picture=2#content

Greg

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July 24, 2011.  The first thing to address was the building board.  This was made with ¾ inch MDF and given a couple of coats of Kilz.  After sanding it smooth, the centerline and the fore and aft dimension lines were drawn in and scribed.  A copy of the plan was glued to the building board.  The mirror image was obtained by copying the Mylar from the reverse.  I used Elmer’s poster glue as it allows for removal of the plan without damaging the building board if I decide I don’t like having the plan on the board.  The hull dimensions will be roughly 25 x 7 inches.
 

 
Now to begin making some sawdust!  The keel pieces were cut on the Preac and the scarf joints were made with chisels.  I have never used chisels before and am still getting the hang of them.  The key is sharpness of the tool.  In TFFM it is recommended to make cuts on a flat piece of hardwood.  I am using an old acrylic cutting board from the kitchen which has been sanded dead flat and is knife friendly.
 

 
Joints below waterline are lined with tarred flannel.  I used black paper which I already had for another purpose.  I tested it first in a mock-up to make sure the color did not bleed with either the glue or the finish.  I plan on using Watco’s Danish Wood Oil, which gives an almost dead-flat finish.
 
Toni

Your very welcome Ron and thank you Joe. Here are some photo's of her keel, stem, stern post and deadwood along with her apron and building board. A couple of the photo's show the templates that were used to construct the parts and pieces.