CaptainSteve

Steve
 
Glad I could help you out. The only bad thing about all the stuff that goes in the boat is that it really hides the interrior of the boat.   You might want to thin out the boat details. If I had to do t over I would not put so much detail in the boats.
 
As for the keels I put the one on the big boat so it would fit in the chocks over the hatch covers. And the other three will be hanging over the sides so I put them on also.
 
I am building the Conny following Bob Hunts practicum and taking alot of information off the plans.
 
Good luck with the boats!

Hi Jeff,
 
Late at night and just finished watching an interesting segment on YouTube.  There is significant reference to the Connie.  Just thought folks might enjoy it.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=flxJPl-qwIc

Steve Thought this might help

Here is the Evergreen plastic that I used for the boats

I used evergreen styrene plastic for the interiors and it was:

Part no 112 .015 x .040 strips for the whaleboat footlings,

Part no. 122 .020 x .040 strips for the pinnace & whaleboat ribs, pinnace floorboards, pinnace & whaleboat gudgeon and pintle,

Part no. 124 .020 x .080 strips for the pinnace footing, pinnace caps, pinnace, oarlocks, Part no.131 .030 x .030 for the pinnace thwarts, waleboat rising.

Part no. 9010 .010 sheet for the pinnace portable pannel

Again, just check the plans and see what you need.

Sure
 
Hope this helps out
 
 
Here are couple of pictures:
 
The stryrene bends easily and is ca glued in the boat.
 

 
Here is the interior a little further along
 

 
Here is all the boats with the interior and painted
 

 
 
The last picture shows what I made for the interrior.
 
Just play around with the styrene and see what happens.

Bob,
 
Maybe you can take one of the Ship's boats along to work on while you're there.
 
Harvey

So,  I marked off the waterline which is 3 1/8" from the baseline.  I then applied a piece of tape just above the waterline all the way around.  Then the fun began.  The one thing thats really slowing me down is the looseness of my ponce wheel.  I am now letting it ride along the edge of a piece of boxwood as I rivet the copper. 
     This is the results at the end of day 1.
 
                 Bob R.

Amen to that Geoff.
 
As you know, I am taking a totally different approach by skipping over details that I will come back to later. I have not done the bow carving, boats and netting among others. But I am aware of how far I can go with other things and the rigging is one. For example, I am putting the deadeyes on the shrouds but will not do the lanyards to tie them to the channel deadeyes until much later when most of the rigging is done and in place on the various belaying pins in the center of the ship.
 
I keep thinking about making the bowsprit, but then I find that having to turn the ship around a lot to get to the shrouds and stays, it is easier if the bowsprit is not there. By the same token I cannot attach the forestays on the foremast until the bow is in. etc. etc.
 
However, I really think that starting the rigging at the stern and working forward and up is better than starting at the bow. Or maybe both can work equally well. I don't know. I am too far along to even think about trying it.

Hi Alistair,
 
A recent post in the forums regarding rope coils made me immediately think of your AVS, as your coils are so superbly done. 
 
How did you do them?  Are they part of the actual line you belayed?  Are they made separately off of the ship and then added following belaying?  Please, do share your secrets to success Man 
 
Thanks,
Robert

Hi Ken
Just spotted your question...no I can't - all the photos of the build were lost when my hard drive failed. All my model files for the AVS and many other ships that I was researching and scheduling just disappeared. I'm only just starting to realise how much I lost, nothing compared to the MSW V1 crash though...
 
I attach drawings of my memory of the process and a picture of the result on the finished ship. Best I can do I'm afraid. It is a cheats method but at this scale you can't even see knots this small in such rope. I think the rope was 0.25mm diameter. The bouy is about 10 - 12mm long. It is as close I can zoom in with my camera and an observant eye would see that my bouy rope has two cut ends...one too many.
 
Cheers
Alistair
 
 

Just a couple more...
 
Cheers
Alistair
 
 

This will be the last lot.
 
Cheers
Alistair
 

Hi
More photos.
 
Cheers
Alistair
 

Who said that rigging is fun?
 

Although it looks like a rats nest, I'm sure its completely organized.

Nice work

Great maaaslo!
Smart move using a scanned photo from a book!
since it is not present directly in the web, now we are forced to use really the brain!
 
Google cannot anymore be the key factor for solving your puzzle!
That the end of a lazy search with Google, using the brain in "stand-by mode"!

My name is Geoff and I have been building the MS Constitution. I basically followed Bob Hunts practicum. I am now ready to begin the masting and rigging part. I am very impressed with the other Constitution build logs and look forward to see them all develope Here are a few pictures of my progress so far. Thanks Geoff

My poor Conny, she is getting to be so tall!   And she does not have much up front yet. But she is still growing.
Pretty soon I will have to find her a new dry-dock.
 
The masts and top masts are glued in place. A point of no return. Now I can add more lines and some day a bowsprit.

Here is another quick update. I finished the skylight and started working on the gunports. I have decided to model the majority of the gunports closed since I think that if you've seen one, you've seen them all. There really isn't much to see anyway besides a barrel and a wooden block. They are also easy to knock off the hull. I will probably leave the last 2 or 3 on each side open. The upper half of each gunport has some rigging I'm assuming is used to open and close the port. The practicum suggest to use white wire and then paint it black. I chose to use black 34 gauge wire, therefore no painting is necessary.
 
The following pictures show the method used to build the skylight. It took me a couple of tries to get it right. For some reason the six-sided shape was difficult for me to wrap my mind around.
 
Using the pattern provided with the practicum, I cut out the first piece and then traced it to get the second piece.
 

 
I used a razor saw to cut a groove for the 6 sections on top. Then I shaped the top using a number 11 exacto.
 

 

 
I used styrene to add the raised detail to the edges of both the top and bottom piece.
 

 
Then I glued the two pieces together, painted, and added 4 pieces of wire on all sides of the top. The little round piece on the top was made from a piece of 1/8" dowel.
 
I glued the skylight to a piece of styrene cut from a sheet and painted green which was then glued to a square piece of construction paper. The whole thing was glued to the deck.
 


 
 

Jeff if I may offer a word of caution as you go along with the gun tackles and other deck furnishings. Be careful of those black holes. I am talking about the open hatches and mast holes in the deck. 
Just yesterday I added more ballast to my Conny when I dropped a tiny block and stropped hook into the foremast opening. No way can I get to it, so I made another one. I also happened to pull out an eyebolt when the darn hook slipped and disappeared.
You might consider putting a piece of tape across the holes.

Last week I drilled out and installed the hawse ports.  This is how she sits as of last Saturday.  I am currently on travel in the Bremerton, WA. area till Friday.  I plan on starting copper plating this coming weekend before I head off to Japan for 6 weeks.
 
           Bob R.

The rebuild is just about complete.  It actually came out better the second time around.  Pics to follow later today.
 
                       Bob R.

[sHOCKED PAUSE AS BOB RE-BUILDS]
 
In memory of MSW1, may I just say ......
 
"Bob, I'm not an American, but even I felt like belting out a few bars of the 'Star-Spangled Banner' with THAT little kit-bash." 
 
'Oh! Say can you seeeeeeeeeeee ... '

Added the friezes.  Still have the trim piece to install below the frieze and the hull will be complete.  I used the friezes downloaded from this forum.  The smallest one fit my hull perfectly.  The ones supplied in the kit were way too large.
 
   Bob R.

Constructed the "Seats of Ease" using supplied grating and some left over Swiss Pear.  Top rails was then added and the head area was planked.
 
            Bob R.