mitchel

Guy, thank you for the link.
 
Ed, a thorough explanation well explained. Interestingly enough I typed in 'liver of sulfer' in youtube and in the video a lady uses it in gel form. She says it stays stable longer. The video is quite educational.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b160j_DXgRw

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 40 – Aft Half Frames 1
 
As in the forward section, the aft half frames lie between the cant frames and the aftermost of the full square frames.  They bolt to the vertical side of the deadwood and are square to the line of the keel.  When installed they will be hard to distinguish from the full frames that rest on the keel.  However when the horizontal bolts are installed the difference will be more obvious.
 
I installed the first of these following the method used on the forward frames.  As shown in the first picture these, although separate, were fabricated as a single assembly held together with temporary cross-spalls.  This assembly would then be slipped over the deadwood at the correct height.  The breadth at the top is held by the spalls and alignment set using the center string line.
 

 
The next picture shows the erection method.
 

 
The sides are contained by the two clamped squares located at the line on the base drawing.  The center of the spall is marked and aligned with the string.  The height on both sides is set using the vertical caliper based on heights taken from the drawing.  This worked well except that gluing and accurately clamping at the deadwood was a bit involved.  I soon adopted the simpler method shown in the next picture.
 

 
In this method the two frame halves are installed separately.  The ribbands at the planksheer were extended back into the cant frames.  These ribbands are then used to set the height and breadth of the frames at the top, where they are pinned tightly through the ribband as was done for the full frames.  This method roughly mimics actual shipyard practice.
 

 
This turned out to be a very much simpler method with equal accuracy.  In the next picture a half frame has been lightly clamped at the bottom and the frame is held so the top of the aft top member is at the top of the ribband. The ribband has been marked with the joint line of the frame for fore and aft alignment.  A pin hole is being drilled through in the picture.
 

 
Once pinned at the top it is an easy matter to rotate the frame to apply glue to the face, then position and clamp it in place by one of the methods shown above.  This process is almost too simple.  However, it does depend on an accurate ribband line.
 
To help assure this, a spreader was inserted and pinned at frame 33, about midway in the remaining open space.  Sized from the pattern for 33, this helps maintain the correct curve of the ribband breadth.  This spreader and two measured strips are shown in the next picture.
 

 
The strips are loose and were merely used to check the breadth at the last full frame and the last installed half frame.
 
The last picture shows the hull at present.  The remaining gap in the framing should soon be filled.
 

 
Apart from the clutter of my workshop in the background, this picture gives an idea of the length of this hull – and of the L/B ratio.  This is one long slim ship -  roughly 240 feet long by about 43 feet broad – about 6/1.  Naiad:  3.7/1.
 
 
 Ed

You can manage soup, Gary? That's good enough to be a ship's cook. You're pressed!

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 35 –Deadwood scores continued/stern timbers
 
Chiseling out the cant frame scores in place has gotten some comments, so I will show a couple more pictures of this.  In the first picture, a ¼” wide paring chisel is being used to pare out the third score forward after the outline had been scribed fairly deeply to prevent tear out.  
 

 
In this picture the chisel is being used with the bevel against the work so the bevel angle can be used to keep the paring cut vertical and controlled by the angle of the chisel.  The chisel is being lightly tapped with a small mallet.  This permits much better control of the cut than pushing the chisel and risking slippage and tear out.
 
In the next picture the chisel is being used to plunge cut and deepen the side line.
 

 
Once the depths along the boundaries of the score are sufficiently deepened, the center area can be pared and leveled out.  There will very likely be some additional light paring done when the cant frames are fitted.
 
In the next picture, all of the scores have been completed and the work on the stern framing has begun. 
 

 
The starboard stern timber is being fitted up in this picture.  The height at the top was measured from the drawing and transferred to the “clamped square”.  With the square positioned on the base drawing, the correct position of the timber can be fixed.  These timbers will be glued to the sternpost and bolted through.
 
In the next picture the port stern timber is being glued on.
 

 
The small height pencil mark on the clamped square can be seen in this picture.  The next picture shows both timbers installed – with the clamps cleared away.  All six starboard scores can also be seen in this picture.
 

 
The forward faces of both these stern timbers are beveled to match the angles aft of the aftermost cant frames.  Those frame pairs will butt against those faces when they are seated in the aftermost scores.  Then lots of bolts.
 
Assembly of those two cant frames is shown in the next picture.
 

 
There is quite a bit of work involved in these.  First, the lofting is more time consuming than for the square frames.  A lot of measurements were required for plotting the three curves involved in each cant pair.  Also, in these aft cants, scores for additional stern timbers and horizontal filling pieces were included on the patterns.  Following the pictured assembly step, the frames still need to be beveled, including the face bevel for the deadwood joint.  Then before installing, scores for the fillers and other stern pieces also need to be cut.  They are quite complex.  I am hoping they will fit together correctly.
 
Perhaps we shall see in the next parts.
 
 
Ed

I thought the bulkead formers were a bit weak so I added pieces of paper to the bulkhead/horizontal formers. Not the neatest job I have ever done...
 

 
The transom formers are incredibly weak and just touching them breaks them easily..I will need to make a scratch version of the one I snapped and build the hull at the stern first to minimize any more breaks. The rest of the hull is quite sturdy.. 
 

 

 

Here is a look of the inside of the instructions book. The book is a mixture of building instructions and the actual cardboard for the build. I am also crossing out the letters/numbers of the pieces I have used as I go along so that I don't miss anything. If the letter isn't crossed out then I assume that I haven't used it.
 

 

Here is a look of the inside of the instructions book. The book is a mixture of building instructions and the actual cardboard for the build. I am also crossing out the letters/numbers of the pieces I have used as I go along so that I don't miss anything. If the letter isn't crossed out then I assume that I haven't used it.
 

 

Hello everyone
 
Well Christmas has come and gone and as promised I am starting a build log. One thing to notice straight off is that I have named the ship Enterprise with an 'S' rather than 'Z' which is the spelling on the kit. Not a big deal but something I want to do.
Now as stated in the title this is a card model. I have never done anything like this before so with the help of all you good people here I hope I can do her justice.
 
Here are 2 photos of the kit.
 

 

Very nice!!

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 27 – Forward Hull Sanding/Bolting
 
 
First, thanks everyone for the recent comments.  I hope all those who celebrate Thanksgiving Day had a good holiday.
 
The view from directly forward in the last post seemed popular so here is another from a slight angle.
 

 
All those unsightly wood spacers between frames are temporary and will be coming out at some point.
 
After this picture was taken the model was inverted for fairing and sanding.  There is not much to say about this, since it turned out to be less work than anticipated.  Below is a picture of part of the bottom after sanding.
 

 
Not much fairing was needed – nothing like the work I had to do on Naiad, where very little pre-beveling of frames was done.  On this model almost all of the beveling was done before the frames were set, so the sanding was mostly for cleanup and finishing.
 
The next picture shows an area slightly forward.
 

 
This picture shows some of the bolts – inserted after sanding – to secure the half frames to the keelson/deadwood.  These are copper wire, epoxied deep into the holes to give strength to the model joints.  These frames are end-grain glued to the keelson/deadwood, so the joints are not strong.  These bolts were iron so they will be blackened before the lower hull is finished.
 
I am considering installing the garboard strakes – at least – later on both sides.  On these ships the garboards had an important structural role.  They were quite thick (7”) and were edge bolted through the keel and face bolted to the frames.   This reinforced the attachment of the frames to the keel and will serve that purpose on the model as well.  You will recall that the frame floors are merely glued and pinned to the top of the keel – not notched to fit over a rising wood as in 18C ships – and some clippers.  This is not a strong joint.
 
While the model was inverted the remaining forward bolts were installed.  The bolts through the stem can be seen in the next picture.  These were long copper bolts.
 

 
Eventually, the forward side of the stem – actually the false stem – will be tapered down to about 4 or 6 inches in `breadth.
 
The last picture shows the iron bolts securing the hawse timbers to the stem/apron.  Like the cant frame bolts, these are black monofilament.  All these bolts were riveted flush.
 

 
The model has now been re-aligned on the shipway so the afterbody framing can begin.
 
 
Ed
 
 
 

Here ya go...http://www.seawatchbooks.com/112002