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herbgold

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Posts posted by herbgold

  1. I've pinned a temporary batten to guide the top of the wale. Like others, I was a bit puzzled by how the wale should curve at the bow and stern, and I've just let the batten relax in what seems like a natural curve fore and aft.

     

    On another topic, this thing (I find it hard to describe it as anything else) has just moored next to HMS Belfast here on London River. Cheek!

     

    https://www.theguardian.com/world/2016/sep/06/russian-billionaires-superyacht-makes-waves-in-london

  2. Well, I started to mark up the bulkheads according to the method in Simple Hull Planking Techniques for Beginners (Dirk De Bakker et al,) but the more I thought about it the less sense it seemed to make to divide the bulkheads up the way it is done there without actually marking the planks on them. The Jack Nastyface Planking Tutorial looks superb but is too advanced for me (and uses different widths of planks, whereas I am pretty much bound by the kit contents). So the best option seems to be to follow Nico's Planking the hull, running the planks, which looks straightforward and seems to leave much less to chance. I will report back once I have done it...

  3. I don't think my wife would agree that I am a patient man, but thank you anyway.

     

    A question before I start the first planking - downwards from the gunport strips, as per the instructions, or upwards from the garboard, as per Martin's build: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5960-hms-fly-by-martin-w-amati/page-8? Or does it not matter that much for a first planking?

     

     

    Onward!

  4. Well, it's (re-)done. I steamed the starboard gun-port strip off yesterday, soaked and glued it back today, using Spyglass's tutorial as best I could, in particular the bit about sighting through port 6 via a temporary mainmast. It's definitely better, at least the strips now line up vertically and horizontally, which is just as well because the bulkhead risers would not have stood another steaming.

     

    Thank you everyone - I honestly think if it hadn't been for your help and encouragement I would have given up.

    post-6844-0-41195000-1468760048_thumb.jpg

  5. Martin, I didn't use screws this time time round. I have soaked and clamped the ports twice without gluing them. I lined them up at the joint the first time round, and that didn't work, so this time I started at the bow, as Mike suggested.

     

    I have just looked again, more carefully:

    • The main problem is that the starboard strip is set too far back, and I will steam it off (isopropyl alcohol apparently doesn't work on standard Evo-Stik) and shorten it at the bow. (This arises from the first time round, when I broke off a piece at the bow when removing it, had to remake it, and got it a little longer that the port strip.)
    • The minor problem is that the starboard sides of the aftmost two gratings is skewed aftwards at the right, which visually exaggerates any unevenness, because the eye tends to settle on the edges of the gratings as right-angled reference points. That's easily fixed by removing the gratings and refixing them.

    I hope all this makes sense! Thank you all for your advice and patience with me. Probably nothing more until the week after next, when a very fit Herb returns from walking in the French Alps with his beloved.

  6. Thank you all once again for your advice and encouraging words.

     

    Of course there's a problem - there would be - the starboard gun ports are about 3mm further back than the port ones. I am not going to unglue them again, instead thinking of either enlarging the port ones backwards by 3mm or the opposite with the starboard ones. I think I will be able to cover up when I timber the sides. But it will all have to wait until we come back from our week in the French Alps - I can't tell you how much we're looking forward to getting away from Britain for a bit.

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